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Short of time, space and money - so 7mm it is then ?


ThePurplePrimer

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You need the finescale wheels you have with the kit. There is a lot of 'slop' in the 'finescale' standard, this is one of its faults. It can (if you're not careful) lead to situations where buffers lock on straight track during propelling moves. When building your wagon, try to ensure the wheels have minimum side play, contingent with them running freely. You may find you need to shave a tad off the brake blocks - but this is not always necessary, it seems to vary from kit to kit. 

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Good luck with your 7mm efforts. Well worth going up a scale in my opinion. Much has been said about presence, mass, detail etc and they all figure but don't be too complacent - 7mm is not easier to detail IMHO - because it's bigger you have to do more.

 

I'm afraid most things cost far more in O than OO (just compare the price of a Peco point - I needed a few Peco OO points for the fiddle yard on my new On30 layout, when I was told the price I couldn't help blurting out "Is that all?" - I am so used to 7mm prices). The cost of various stuff is often cited as a reason not to use the scale, however you are never going to fit in the same amount in any given space. But there is no getting round it - it is more expensive. I know it can be done "on the cheap" but unless you are very skillful it will look like exactly that.

 

If you want to see what is (only just) possible in 16 feet by 2 feet why not have a look at my topic on Dock Green?

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58132-dock-green/

 

This has cost well into four figures (EEEK!) - and that doesn't include the stock, which was borrowed from my fixed home layout.

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Slaters wagon kits have been around for aeons. Thirty years and more ago they were state of the art and, indeed, just about the only plastic wagon kits around, apart from the somewhat limited and rather cheaper 3H range. However, things have moved on and, I suspect, your 7-planker comes from tooling from the days before anyone expected interior detail and a good proportion of 7mm modellers were still happy to repaint and rewheel Triang 16T mineral wagons and call them "scale".

 

As for wheels, the "finescale" ones in the kit should be fine (as it were). They represent the current de-facto industry standard. The majority of your stock and locos are likely to end up with Slaters round things underneath them so you might as well adopt their dimensions as your standard and, if you build track at any stage, build it to suit them.

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Hi Pat

 

I suppose I did come across a bit negative about the kit and it's too early for that - I was just surprised by a few things really

You can get etched brass (MMP) or laser cut wood (Poppys)  inserts for the Slaters wagons if you want to go the extra step - in 7mm you tend to do that I'm afraid...

Chris

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Hi. O gauge is chunky and a 16T mineral tends to look good all on it's little own, even on the mantle piece it will get noticed.  Bits are relatively expensive but you need a lot less of it to look nice. Even in the space you have to hand, you could have a continuous run with industrials etc. How about 16.5 narrow gauge? Warning though ... it's obsessive and infectious!

Good luck. Tom.

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Hi Chaz

 

I love Dock Green and there is a small part of it I want to shamelessly copy - oops I mean ' be inspired by' of course

 

It's the steps leading down from the bridge

 

The whole thing is amazing but that's a little bit I really like

 

Well Rob, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery so go ahead, be inspired! I will just point out that there was another motive for putting the stairs down from the bridge besides the "look". They are there to hide the view of the inclined track passing under the bridge - otherwise it's rather too obvious that that track goes right through the ground floor of the warehouse.

 

Thanks for the kind remarks, by the way.

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Hi Purple

 

There are lots of very nice industrial RTR's and some pretty little kits. Friend of mine building a very simple O gauge brewery, RTR and a couple vans for now, I think it's about 4 ft long but it's very cute. He's workin around a 3ft rad min and , well, the point work works and it's looking good. Someones already asked him if he minds them copying?

 

Re "I don't fancy the on30", my advice then is to never ever buy one of those lovely Bachmann outside frame consolidations, even on a whim!

Good luck cuz I shamefully gave in, Kettering Furnaces 9 and 10 name plates for my two when I get sons layout done! (to be fictitiously imported after the line was fictitiously re gauged: modelers freedom).

 

Tom

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So, if starting out in 7mm scale, unless you have a particular desire for a particular railway company:

Consider purchasing one of the Ixion R-T-R locomotives. The Hudswell Clarke is available, the Class H Manning Wardle occasionally comes up 2nd hand and the Fowler Diesel is just out.

 

Then look at buying a few goods wagons, a brake van and possible a coach. If you go with the Hudswell Clarke, the GWR brake-3rd coach is a near-enough approximation to the coach used on the Easingwold Railway from the 1920s.

 

Of course, any combination of small items can be used to represent a Colonel Stephens type light railway.

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Rob

 

If the kit has sink marks in visible /printed surfaces, it is not acceptable, or "of marketable quality". I suggest you put it all back in the box and ask politely for a refund, or an acceptable alternative. I have used many Slaters parts over the years, I have had the odd issue, but always found them to be helpful, I'm sure they would rather have a satisfied customer than a lot of grumbling!

 

There's no point in spoiling your fun trying to fix things that shouldn't need fixing!

 

Regarding interior detail, well, there are add-ons you can buy, or you can get some card, plastic card, balsa, and spend an enjoyable time adding infinitesimal detail to your models.

 

Yes, GOG-F wheel sets do have quite a bit of "play" on 32mm track. It's necessary to get large locos round small curves! There are threads on RMWeb that refer to 0-MF which might help if and when you bite the bullet and start making your own track & point work. (Yes, it is just a progression...., like most addictions)

 

Good luck

SD

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Thanks SD

 

Again I feel I have come across overly negative about the kit - I apologise to all ( especially Slaters ) about that. I think I was just shocked to see it prepainted and printed as I just wasn't expecting it. I am sure for many people it will be a big bonus.

 

The ejector marks are just part of the manufacturing process so I will just fix that ( already have ) and on this thickness of moulding I think you expect a few sink marks. I am sure if I contacted Slaters about the one under the finished paint they would do something about that for me but I am happy to come up with my own solution - that's what modelling is about isn't it ? - I guess if I didn't want that I would have stuck to my original thought of RTR 00 Gauge ( I may go back to that idea yet ). I love modelling but only have so much time so have to decide where to spend that time and where to cut corners by buying some things off the shelf ( for me this will certainly be locos )

 

I have a yard of Peco track but am already wondering if I should build my own track ( or have a try at least ) but lots of questions there too - Plastic, copper clad or wood sleepers just for starters

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If you want to have a go at handbuilding track (you don't mention if you have any experience of doing so previously in any scale) the C&L "Turnout in a bag" may be something worth considering?

 

http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=395_411_414_417

 

If you have any way to get to Kettering on 1st March for the Guild show, I would highly recommend it as a great 'eye opener' to what is out there.  It is open to non-members but members get a reduced entrance fee.

 

http://www.gauge0guild.com/events2.asp

 

The "ultimate" for us down south must definitely be the Reading trade show in December (little info yet at http://www.guildford0gaugegroup.org.uk/events.html) which is an absolute goldmine for the 7mm modeller.

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A quick comment on matching the paint colour.

 

It's some years since I built a Slater's wagon (though I still have some in the loft to make), I remember that the colours they used seemed to be Humbrol, at least a very good match was possible using Humbrol matt enamels.

 

You can obtain unpainted kits, they are listed on Slaters website:

 

https://slatersplastikard.com/

 

 

David

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A quick comment on matching the paint colour.

 

It's some years since I built a Slater's wagon (though I still have some in the loft to make), I remember that the colours they used seemed to be Humbrol, at least a very good match was possible using Humbrol matt enamels.

 

You can obtain unpainted kits, they are listed on Slaters website:

 

https://slatersplastikard.com/

 

 

David

 

Thanks David

 

I keep quite a lot of paint and luckily I found a Vallejo colour that's very close - handy as this airbrushes ok and is nice on a paintbrush too 

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If you want to have a go at handbuilding track (you don't mention if you have any experience of doing so previously in any scale) the C&L "Turnout in a bag" may be something worth considering?

 

http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=395_411_414_417

 

If you have any way to get to Kettering on 1st March for the Guild show, I would highly recommend it as a great 'eye opener' to what is out there.  It is open to non-members but members get a reduced entrance fee.

 

http://www.gauge0guild.com/events2.asp

 

The "ultimate" for us down south must definitely be the Reading trade show in December (little info yet at http://www.guildford0gaugegroup.org.uk/events.html) which is an absolute goldmine for the 7mm modeller.

 

I have actually joined the Guild - was keen to see what was on offer in this scale - pack arrived this morning but too busy just at the moment to take a look yet

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