RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted November 29, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 29, 2015 Feel free to post any of the photos I sent you. They may see the light of day in print one day, but that doesn't matter. However, as you say there is not much unpainted brickwork. I too find brickwork very hard to paint so it looks realistic. I have the task shortly on the bigger house at Sarn. That is a few years younger than Newtown station (but next door) and is not quite the same brick. Jonathan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted November 29, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2015 Feel free to post any of the photos I sent you. They may see the light of day in print one day, but that doesn't matter. However, as you say there is not much unpainted brickwork. I too find brickwork very hard to paint so it looks realistic. I have the task shortly on the bigger house at Sarn. That is a few years younger than Newtown station (but next door) and is not quite the same brick. Jonathan Jonathan, Thank you. If people copy my photos off my thread that is one thing, but if they copied ones you had sent me that is another. Still, going back to the original post there are quite a few there, ore than I realised. I have re-mortared the inside. Paint too thick I think. then rubbed and rubbed, so much I had to repaint. This time the paint was thinner and it was better but there is a pale yellow sheen to it now. I will look again in the daylight, which will be Wednesday, (no we will not have 72 hours of darkness, it is just that I am at work for the next two days). I may then go down the route of picking out individual bricks. I still have black to add anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CKPR Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 (edited) Whenever I paint plastic, I always use an undercoat of Halfords grey primer as it really helps with applying the subsequent colour coats and reduces the likelihood of a glossy finish. It also imparts a degree of 'organic' texture (ok, I know stone and brick aren't organic, but you know what I mean ) to the otherwise, well, plasticky styrene. Just a suggestion which I hope is useful. Edited December 1, 2015 by CKPR 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) To add to CKPR's comment, I've found that a coat of primer can prevent the tendency for some paints to "slide" off some of the glossier/smoother plastics. Edited December 1, 2015 by mike morley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 2, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 2, 2015 Whenever I paint plastic, I always use an undercoat of Halfords grey primer as it really helps with applying the subsequent colour coats and reduces the likelihood of a glossy finish. It also imparts a degree of 'organic' texture (ok, I know stone and brick aren't organic, but you know what I mean ) to the otherwise, well, plasticky styrene. Just a suggestion which I hope is useful. To add to CKPR's comment, I've found that a coat of primer can prevent the tendency for some paints to "slide" off some of the glossier/smoother plastics. Thank you both, For some reason I did not think to prime this time, still a bit late now. I will need to think about that more regularly in future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Argos Posted December 2, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 2, 2015 Chris, If priming a surface that will be brickwork, Halfords do a red oxide primer. It will help giving a red colour to the base, and in the case of any knocks wont show through grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 2, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 2, 2015 I have been doing a little and I will comment on the walls when tonight's paint is dry. First though the frames for the glass panes. I first thought I could make them from scratch and so I fitted the clear acrylic for the windows and began to stick thin strips of plastic to it. This had two problems, apart from being very difficult to stick thin strips on their side to anything. Even though I was using a glue for doing glazing, there was still obvious glue on the 'glass'. The second was that if sticking the long strips which may be 12mm long was difficult, sticking the cross pieces was going to be nearly impossible and the 'glass' would get very dirty. So I looked for an alternative. I found some windows, Wills I think, with frames in them. I then began to cut them and glue in extra uprights, the bottom one is a work in progress. Once dried I cut them out. Of course they fell apart, well bits came off but I could glue those. I then made sure they fitted, and they do, sort of, but they can be glued first to the outside frames before the 'glass' is put in although they will probably be glued to those too. Once the woodwork has been painted, then they will be fitted and then the glass. If you have been, thanks for looking. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Mikkel Posted December 3, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi Chris, I like your approach, the creative adaptation of whatever is at hand, in this case the Wills window frames. In case you weren't aware: I've seen a lot of very good windows done using Chubber's method of printing and cutting out frames on self adhesive paper: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/47513-cutting-scalescenes-windows-out-in-n-gauge-whats-the-best-way/?p=535715 And discussion here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/52143-bespoke-windows-on-acrylic-sheet/ And while I'm at it, just because it's so extraordinarily good: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83509-a-village-shop-from-a-scalescenes-cottage-row/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi Chris, I like your approach, the creative adaptation of whatever is at hand, in this case the Wills window frames. In case you weren't aware: I've seen a lot of very good windows done using Chubber's method of printing and cutting out frames on self adhesive paper: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/47513-cutting-scalescenes-windows-out-in-n-gauge-whats-the-best-way/?p=535715 And discussion here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/52143-bespoke-windows-on-acrylic-sheet/ And while I'm at it, just because it's so extraordinarily good: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83509-a-village-shop-from-a-scalescenes-cottage-row/ Mikkel, Thank you I will look at these. I do know of other, probably easier techniques but the images of the shelter from the 60s show quite distinctive frames and I wanted to at least have a 3D effect with what I produced. I am really seeing what I can do, and finding that some things are just too small, and probably later when I am making houses I will use paper, or paint or some such method. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Chris, If priming a surface that will be brickwork, Halfords do a red oxide primer. It will help giving a red colour to the base, and in the case of any knocks wont show through grey. A development on this theme is to spray the sheet brick re then follow it with a mortar colour. Then, once all is dry, turn the sheet over and rub it gently over a sheet of fine wet and dry laid flat on the workbench, removing the mortar from the surface of the bricks but leaving it in the joints. It is particularly well suited to the Wills sheets because the casting process gives the bricks a slight bulge that is flattened by the wet and dry, improving their appearance no end. This isn't my idea. It was given to me by one of the operators of the lovely Midland P4 layout "Foxup". And be careful when cutting and shaping Wills brick sheets. I've found them to be particularly prone to shattering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2015 A development on this theme is to spray the sheet brick re then follow it with a mortar colour. Then, once all is dry, turn the sheet over and rub it gently over a sheet of fine wet and dry laid flat on the workbench, removing the mortar from the surface of the bricks but leaving it in the joints. It is particularly well suited to the Wills sheets because the casting process gives the bricks a slight bulge that is flattened by the wet and dry, improving their appearance no end. This isn't my idea. It was given to me by one of the operators of the lovely Midland P4 layout "Foxup". And be careful when cutting and shaping Wills brick sheets. I've found them to be particularly prone to shattering. Mike, Thank you. I shall keep that in mind. My issue at the moment is that having put the mortar on second it covers the bricks in a thin layer of paint which if I paint other bricks over it is very noticeable. I think I have done all I can on this wall, and I will put pictures up again in a day or so. My youngest son may be around Saturday, and I will ask him what he thinks. He will not be afraid to say what he thinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aberdare Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi Chris Good to see progress on the shelter. As for the brickwork I have always painted the bricks first and then the mortar as you have, I use enamels and the mortar is very diluted and I only have to touch an edge or gap with a very fine loaded brush and the colour flows very freely, standing the wall almost vertical helps the downward flow between the courses. I only have an odd brick or two to touch up later because of any clumsiness. As for windows I have used labels, separate strips and was happy with both but now use my portrait cutter - it cuts straighter than me - though I do the final cut with a small knife. The cutter is the best thing I have invested in so far. Keep up the good work and if it doesn't work first time try again, like I do. I should really have two or three of everything by now. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 3, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2015 Hi Chris Good to see progress on the shelter. As for the brickwork I have always painted the bricks first and then the mortar as you have, I use enamels and the mortar is very diluted and I only have to touch an edge or gap with a very fine loaded brush and the colour flows very freely, standing the wall almost vertical helps the downward flow between the courses. I only have an odd brick or two to touch up later because of any clumsiness. As for windows I have used labels, separate strips and was happy with both but now use my portrait cutter - it cuts straighter than me - though I do the final cut with a small knife. The cutter is the best thing I have invested in so far. Keep up the good work and if it doesn't work first time try again, like I do. I should really have two or three of everything by now. Jim Jim, Thank you. When I built the Ratio station building I dribbled the mortar between the stones but thought these would be too small for something like that. I will have to try that next time. The picture that I am going from is here. You can see how the frames dominate which is why I have done what I have done. All ideas welcome though. As for redoing things, I would if it was desperate but I might find I never got anything done. The town at the other end of the Naf valley is not called Twill Ddu for nothing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Chris, Could be wrong here but I see the top of that window as a series of pointed panes, "sort-of-Gothic" maybe a bit like this only wood, not stone https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.andythornton.com/system/product_images/5066/original/ATVMRSGP494.jpg%253F1263841787&imgrefurl=http://windowframetama.blogspot.com/2015/01/gothic-window-frame.html&h=800&w=800&tbnid=uEKZq20v572qeM:&docid=V--U20wYvawzgM&hl=en&ei=4kFhVtnTBcSxUaaGkZAF&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwjZzLC82MHJAhXEWBQKHSZDBFIQMwgwKA4wDg Best Simon Edited December 4, 2015 by Simond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2015 Chris, Could be wrong here but I see the top of that window as a series of pointed panes, "sort-of-Gothic" maybe a bit like this only wood, not stone https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.andythornton.com/system/product_images/5066/original/ATVMRSGP494.jpg%253F1263841787&imgrefurl=http://windowframetama.blogspot.com/2015/01/gothic-window-frame.html&h=800&w=800&tbnid=uEKZq20v572qeM:&docid=V--U20wYvawzgM&hl=en&ei=4kFhVtnTBcSxUaaGkZAF&tbm=isch&ved=0ahUKEwjZzLC82MHJAhXEWBQKHSZDBFIQMwgwKA4wDg Best Simon Simon, Yes you are right. There is that pattern at the top but as far as I can make out there are six uprights as well, so there is a bar in the middle of each. I had hoped to replicate this which is why I went down the thin/wide strip first but it is too small for me to do. I may still try and do this but I am not sure if it is possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aberdare Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 I can see why you tried the strips on edge first now, I would have done the same because of the smaller bars going across and into them. I think I would have been through several versions by now which is why I never get anywhere. It looks to be a bit of a challenge so I'll be interested to see the finished result, I'm almost tempted to have a go myself but I mustn't I look forward to seeing this completed. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 If you want inspiration for what can be done in plasticard, look at Ron Heggs' thread.... I suggest putting on a chinstrap first. Best Simon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 If you want inspiration for what can be done in plasticard, look at Ron Heggs' thread.... I suggest putting on a chinstrap first. Best Simon That thread is awesome. The full scale of the model only hit me when I looked at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/28293-manchester-central-clc-gn-warehouses-castlefield-viaducts/?p=1900720 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2015 That thread is awesome. The full scale of the model only hit me when I looked at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/28293-manchester-central-clc-gn-warehouses-castlefield-viaducts/?p=1900720 It is amazing. It is one of those structures that if you did not know how it was done, or have experience of modelling then you would have no idea of the skill or time involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2015 This is my last post concerning the wall. I have re-mortared it and it is mainly covered in a pale yellow colour and I have added some more highlights. However, anything I do at the moment just seems to make it worse so I am going to quit while I am ahead, well at least not too far behind. The next time I do bricks I will have learnt some valuable lessons. (Well actually I will probably do the same again and then I will remember, 'Oh yes I did that last time and it did not work either.' ) So here is what it looks like. I am busy tomorrow, family outing to the Watercress Line, and then my youngest and his wife will be back for dinner, so it will be next week before I get much further. The painting is taking ages, mainly because it has two sides, two colours and two coats. Once this is done the frames and glazing will be fitted and then a matt varnish. The green is very glossy which is why I have not posted many pictures, and why would you want to see something half painted? Finally, on another thread, Penlan mentioned that there was a discussion about something but that my thread was quite large and they may not find it. The thread is large because there have been many very interesting contributions from many folk, for which I am grateful. So I will start an index as I get time. It will have page numbers but not links as several things ran alongside each other. If you have been, thanks for looking. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 Chris I like the wall. Best Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 5, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 5, 2015 Chris I like the wall. Best Simon Simon, Thank you. I can see what I have done and how I think I would have liked it to look. Still, if other people like it then it cannot be all bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Morning Chris, I'm with Simon, I also like the wall which I feel will be very convincing at normal viewing distance. I apologise for the rash of ratings as I've been absent for a few days due to health issues! One thing I have noticed as I trawled through is that you never fail to answer each contribution with a courteous reply, something for which you are to be commended! Kind regards, Jock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted December 5, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 5, 2015 Morning Chris, I'm with Simon, I also like the wall which I feel will be very convincing at normal viewing distance. I apologise for the rash of ratings as I've been absent for a few days due to health issues! One thing I have noticed as I trawled through is that you never fail to answer each contribution with a courteous reply, something for which you are to be commended! Kind regards, Jock. Jock, Thank you. I have done stone work before but bricks are very different, mainly due to the small space for mortar. As I have said it is a learning process. Matching colours is actually quite difficult. I have spent an awful lot of time in the past few weeks looking at brick walls, mainly house walls, and the range, especially near where I live is quite amazing, some with a yellow base, some with a red and some with a brown. I do try to answer everyone, mainly because if they have taken the bother to post then I think they deserve a reply. There are some I have not mainly because there are several comments that are similar, or the only reply is a thank you which I can do with a rating. I hope you begin to feel a bit better soon, all the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Simon, Thank you. I can see what I have done and how I think I would have liked it to look. Still, if other people like it then it cannot be all bad. Chris It's a very, very long way from "all bad". IMO it's very good, certainly convincing, but of course, what matters is that you are happy with it. I hope my next foray into brickwork will look as good. Best Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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