Jump to content
Users will currently see a stripped down version of the site until an advertising issue is fixed. If you are seeing any suspect adverts please go to the bottom of the page and click on Themes and select IPS Default. ×
RMweb
 

Steve's 4mm workbench. Lima class 47 re vamp, 08 weathering and Hornby 25


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Grampus said:

...And no matter how good the new model will be, that does not detract in the slightest from the quality, top drawer models you have produced from some fairly unpromising raw materials! 🙂

 

Cheers,

 

Paul

 

Thank you Paul.

 

I was just thinking I must upgrade my old Hornby Verry vans and I see Rapido are making them too! And mighty fine they look as well!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Funnily enough, I too have a Hornby ferry van upgrade in progress, though stalled currently.  The daft part is that I have done the more difficult bit of sorting out and lowering the ride height, replacing wheels, mounting Kadees, etc; it now runs beautifully. It is the, relatively straightforward, cosmetic work on the body shell, which has slowed me down (by several years!) - not because it's complex (it is one of the relatively recent re-releases with a rather nicely done Railfreight red/grey livery). Just that the enthusiasm to do so went for a walk some time ago and has yet to return.  However, it is close enough to completion (and remains a nice model) that I will dig it out and try to get it done before Rapido's variant turns up in due course! 🙂 Oh well, it's about enjoying the journey, after all...

 

Happy modelling - best wishes,

 

Paul

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Grampus said:

Funnily enough, I too have a Hornby ferry van upgrade in progress, though stalled currently.  The daft part is that I have done the more difficult bit of sorting out and lowering the ride height, replacing wheels, mounting Kadees, etc; it now runs beautifully. It is the, relatively straightforward, cosmetic work on the body shell, which has slowed me down (by several years!) - not because it's complex (it is one of the relatively recent re-releases with a rather nicely done Railfreight red/grey livery). Just that the enthusiasm to do so went for a walk some time ago and has yet to return.  However, it is close enough to completion (and remains a nice model) that I will dig it out and try to get it done before Rapido's variant turns up in due course! 🙂 Oh well, it's about enjoying the journey, after all...

 

Happy modelling - best wishes,

 

Paul

 

 

 

 

Do you have a thread about your ferryvans, there was one on here somewhere I'm sure but I cant seem to find it. 

I'm just catching up on stuff I've stashed away, got a few wagon kits to start as well! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've braved using the airbrush! Gave the underframes a coat of Frame Dirt as a base for more weathering. I do think it gives a nice even flat surface I wouldn't have got brush painting. I'm going to used some powders on one and washes on the other.  received_578248576556811.jpeg.724946b2a953f683035fcb1910de70f1.jpeg

 

received_394827092492908.jpeg.79ed3d98570ebad59613f786d8f27d65.jpeg

Edited by sb67
  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Well, if you're getting picky, "used"?

 

Mike.

Tongue firmly in cheek.I knew what you meant!

 

That's the last time I USE my phone to post an update, bloody fat fingers! 😉

  • Funny 2
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

All finished except for the handrails/release levers at the ends. I used some Black Smoke, Dark Earth and Dark Rust Pigments on the underframes. I've got to look at a way of replicating the rails at the ends now. 

279772373_5354340807948701_2951833559496701645_n.jpg.603f8cc33ef9b89c63224c3e0d7e23e3.jpg

 

279843533_360525499438106_133890117454805109_n.jpg.e7228d402550a38419fcc9d24d654dda.jpg

 

 

  • Like 12
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
  • Round of applause 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've started to add handrails to the end of the wagons but they are proving really hard to do! Anyone goy any ideas on how to do it? The top one is fine and the right hand side going down is ok, I've looked at photo's and they seemed to be a bit haphazard so I can live with them as they are but the one that goes in front of  the support stanchions is proving pain to do! 

Any advice gratefully received.

 

285676343_978649162795880_4196266684074523507_n.thumb.jpg.d189c84f2d50cf35b8499537ffc9819e.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • sb67 changed the title to Steve's 4mm workbench, handrail advice needed!
10 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

What wire are you using Steve? 0.4mm nickel silver is my choice …. And a Bill Bedford handrail jig is a boon 


Bill Bedford handrail jig

 

HTH!

 

Phil

 

 

I have .45mm Brass wire and I've got the handrail jig. The problem is placing the handrail and supports and holding it all in place until the glue dries, superglue is setting too fast.  I've tried bits of blue tack etc. I've asked in another thread about a slow setting glue and someone has mentioned superglue gel so i might try that. Failing that I may just leave the model with the handrail at the top as there's a lot of detail compromises anyway, not giving up just yet though. 

  • Like 1
  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

What superglue are you using Steve? The high viscosity types are more controllable….

 

I got some superglue Gel today, recommended on another thread. I'm going to try this evening and see how that goes. 

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

As you have several to do, I'd consider making some form of jig and using this to solder the lower horizontal handrail to the vertical one before fitting.

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperrivet/h2f5a7ac6

The lower stands off the hopper support stanchions on brackets.  I'd thread the handrail through holes drilled in some microstrip and use MEK to attach those to the stanchions.   Can also use MEK to form a bond between metal and plastic, although not always that strong it's a useful method for holding parts in place while fitting.

  • Agree 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Mark Forrest said:

As you have several to do, I'd consider making some form of jig and using this to solder the lower horizontal handrail to the vertical one before fitting.

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/br21thopperrivet/h2f5a7ac6

The lower stands off the hopper support stanchions on brackets.  I'd thread the handrail through holes drilled in some microstrip and use MEK to attach those to the stanchions.   Can also use MEK to form a bond between metal and plastic, although not always that strong it's a useful method for holding parts in place while fitting.

 

Thank you Mark, I did think of trying to make a jig but that stumped me. I've done what you suggested and threaded the handrails through the brackets before attaching them. 

 

 

Armed with some Superglue Gel I've had a go at the handrails. 

285981665_1032429847377841_6910422129002606822_n.thumb.jpg.c4bae512fab3f10be8b7df99e5bcdb2f.jpg

 

286285246_2125219150993941_5885055777036737195_n.thumb.jpg.c3257a173e3c3b708ebdbe58862ac3a4.jpg

 

286312887_413438903826058_2591765017291404975_n.thumb.jpg.d8998f226c5758fdd8b058c2550ee17b.jpg

 

I cant make up my mind as to how they look or if it's better to just leave the bottom handrail off and leave the wagons like the one on the left. 

One thing the cruel close up shows is how big the tension lock coupling is and the mould lines on the buffer beams! 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
26 minutes ago, sb67 said:

 

Thank you Mark, I did think of trying to make a jig but that stumped me. I've done what you suggested and threaded the handrails through the brackets before attaching them. 

 

 

Armed with some Superglue Gel I've had a go at the handrails. 

285981665_1032429847377841_6910422129002606822_n.thumb.jpg.c4bae512fab3f10be8b7df99e5bcdb2f.jpg

 

286285246_2125219150993941_5885055777036737195_n.thumb.jpg.c3257a173e3c3b708ebdbe58862ac3a4.jpg

 

286312887_413438903826058_2591765017291404975_n.thumb.jpg.d8998f226c5758fdd8b058c2550ee17b.jpg

 

I cant make up my mind as to how they look or if it's better to just leave the bottom handrail off and leave the wagons like the one on the left. 

One thing the cruel close up shows is how big the tension lock coupling is and the mould lines on the buffer beams! 


The handrails make a big difference Steve. We have a few hoppers of this vintage, have addressed the coupling issue by replacing them with Bachmann couplings on Parkside mounting blocks 

Edited by Phil Bullock
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ultraviolet setting glue might be your answer as it doesn’t start setting until the uv light has been used. If you can get one joint secure, you can manoeuvre the others as you go. You may need a third hand to hold the light pen, though.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

After much cussing, blue tack, super glue gel and taking stuff off and re doing it I've finished the end handrails. They are not 100%, I'll accept that but at a glance I like how they look and there seemed to be many prototype variations. I just need to paint and weather to blend them in now. 

I've included a photo that inspired it all as well. 

 

287400408_1053083985325776_1567287175765643226_n.thumb.jpg.35269c06f30d52fd35906129f7afe6a9.jpg

 

p794458822-3.jpg.4b4913442ff5f0dc6d7941ee467c067d.jpg

 

 

  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  • Round of applause 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
On 09/06/2022 at 06:26, sb67 said:

 

I have .45mm Brass wire and I've got the handrail jig. The problem is placing the handrail and supports and holding it all in place until the glue dries, superglue is setting too fast.  I've tried bits of blue tack etc. I've asked in another thread about a slow setting glue and someone has mentioned superglue gel so i might try that. Failing that I may just leave the model with the handrail at the top as there's a lot of detail compromises anyway, not giving up just yet though. 

If the slower setting superglue is too slow, try an accelarator. The thicker glues are great for allowing time for adjustment and for gap filling but take ages to set. The thin glues set too fast so i tend to use an accelarator spray which reacts and causes the glue to set instantly. Helix is a good one. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

 

A bit late to the party, but, my weapons of choice are 0.3mm wire, brass or n/S, whichever you can get on with, and a 0.35mm hole to give a bit of wiggle room, 0.45 is too much of a struggle to bend sharply, and in reality is nigh on an inch and a half in diameter, more suited to the Titanic than hopper wagons IMHO!

Also, totally in agreement with Mark, a jig is a must, (without wishing to sound at all iffy, I love my jigs, must have made dozens for various jobs, the latest being for the end stanchions and footsteps for the Lima seacowlion), the BB bending jig has it's uses, but for handrails the holes are too big.

 

Mike.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...