Steve's 4mm workbench. Lima class 47 re vamp, 08 weathering and Hornby 25

[sb67]

The photo doesn't really do them justice, but I've managed to complete a small rake of vans now, maybe a few chalk marks and scuffs to add but they are all ready for the show! 

Next up I've got to bite the bullet and weather a loco or two!

 

 

 

Edited July 24, 2023 by sb67

[sb67]

 

I want to start weathering this loco to go with the wagons I've been doing, but I've been looking at so much stuff I appear to have weathering overload and don't know where to start!! 

I'm looking to remove the Army number and fade the livery then weather the underframe etc.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the number without causing too much damage? 

I was also wondering if I should airbrush the usual frame dirt around the underframe as I don't think a shunting loco would weather the same way as a main line loco.

Any advice greatly appreciated. 

Edited August 10, 2023 by sb67

[Alan Oliver]

I would use T Cut to remove the numbers, oil paint to fade the paintwork then frame dirt and rust on the underframe with grease and oil stains around axle boxes also grease on the buffers with a bit of metallic added to give it a greasy look.

[Daddyman]

14 hours ago, sb67 said:

 

I want to start weathering this loco to go with the wagons I've been doing, but I've been looking at so much stuff I appear to have weathering overload and don't know where to start!! 

I'm looking to remove the Army number and fade the livery then weather the underframe etc.

Can anyone tell me how to remove the number without causing too much damage? 

I was also wondering if I should airbrush the usual frame dirt around the underframe as I don't think a shunting loco would weather the same way as a main line loco.

Any advice greatly appreciated. 

I always use Halfords 1500 wet and dry (used wet) to remove printing. Slight sheen afterwards, but any method will do that. 

 

As for weathering: photos always photos! There's a nice grubby Ruston in this flickr album (and other stuff too): 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155601626@N07/albums/72157700357387235

 

[sb67]

On 11/08/2023 at 09:34, Daddyman said:

I always use Halfords 1500 wet and dry (used wet) to remove printing. Slight sheen afterwards, but any method will do that. 

 

As for weathering: photos always photos! There's a nice grubby Ruston in this flickr album (and other stuff too): 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/155601626@N07/albums/72157700357387235

 

 

That Ruston is fantastically grubby! I wouldn't know where to start with that! 

[Daddyman]

11 minutes ago, sb67 said:

 

That Ruston is fantastically grubby! I wouldn't know where to start with that! 

A pale filter to fade everything. Do it once very gingerly and see how you feel - you can always go over it again, and if you use enamel you can wipe it off. Note that it will look pretty lifeless at first - just believe that the next processes will liven it up. Mix the paint (white?) at normal spraying thickness (not thin - it will just run) and spray at about 40 psi from 6 inches or more away. 

Full colour density Humbrol leather on the buffer heads and radiator. Muck mix (mine is Humbrol matt black plus Railmatch frame dirt, but there are other options) probably over everything, then wiped off (give the filter a week or so to dry), and re-applied more thickly in some areas - roof, engine room hatch, obstacle deflector, wheel centres. You'd have to experiment with the wheel tyres - they're a very light colour. Maybe white plus frame dirt, and then when dry, smudge on and off some muck mix to tone them down - they need to stand out, but only very slightly.  

 

All colours applied by airbrush to ensure even finish and full colour density, 

Edited August 16, 2023 by Daddyman

[NHY 581]

Morning Steve. 

 

Don't use abrasives to remove lettering etc. I have 2000 grade wet and dry and wouldn't dream of using it on a model.

Stick with a solution such as T-cut or similar. I use Autoglym Resin car polish which has a gentle "T cutting" effect. Remember, it's not a race to remove the lettering! 

 

I don't have an air brush and as you know, rely on powders plus a bit of aerosol acrylic paint. All references to colours in the following refer to the Humbrol range of weathering powders or their acrylic aerosols where stated. 

 

 

For my 03's paintwork, I did the following...

 

 

Dismantle the loco to separate body from chassis. 

In the Rustons case, ( if I remember correctly) only the wheels are visible so just paint black and weather them. I'd probably use a bit of dark rust WP with some Dark Earth over the top to take it down a bit and some black in the centre. Mask the tyres and motor etc and seal with light spray of Matt acrylic varnish. Done. 

 

Mask windows. Stuff something into cab. 

 

Turn the body over and spray from above using Humbrol dark earth, No.29. You''ll have a little making its way up the buffer beams, bottoms of the buffers etc and up the chassis side frames. Spray from a good distance. At least a foot or so to get a light spray. 

 

Use panel liner to bring out the panels. I've even used a very fine black Sharpie. 0.5 nib but I think you can get finer ones. Or, as I say, panel liner from the likes of Tamiya. 

 

Some shading can be added using black applied to the panel edges. Easier to use small amounts to build up rather than work out how to remove it if you over do it. 

 

For this 08, I faded the panels using a very small dab of sand weathering powder popped in the centre of the panel then worked it out to the edges. If you want, a bit of white can then go right into the centre of the panel to further lighten it. 

 

 

 

Here's my Mountain Ash pannier weathered using the 'sand' weathering method. 

 

 

And a B2 Peckett done using white as well as sand to weather the panels. 

 

 

 

This Peckett had a bit of white added to the centre of the panels, rather than sand, as the green was so light. 

 

 

 

Here's a coach end weathered using the same principle. 

 

 

 

For the recent jobs on the J70s, I applied Dark earth to the chassis then lightened it using white applied to the edge ( top and bottom ) and flicked it over the edges of the dark earth.

 

 

 

White weathering powder goes a long way so just a little to start and build up. I also applied a bit to the bottom edge of the skirts. 

 

 

Cab rooves can have a mixture of dark earth and smoke applied. I use a big blusher make up brush and dab it vertically all over to mix the colours as you go. 

 

 

When you're happy, a light dusting of matt acrylic varnish can be applied from an aerosol. Now sealed, remove masking, job done.

 

If you're worried, buy a green diesel body from ebay and test out the above on that. 

 

Above all, have fun doing it. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

 

Edited August 16, 2023 by NHY 581
Clarity

[sb67]

Thanks @Daddyman I've watched some youtube stuff on filters, albeit aimed at military modellers. I did spray some frame dirt along the underframe earlier but it doesn't seem to have ''stuck'' I tried wiping it off to get some streaks but the paint just come off so I'm now wondering if that would be the same using a filter, the Ruston seems to have a very smooth finish! 

 

Thanks Rob,  @NHY 581 I've got an 03 to do so will use that info, do you ever have problems with your initial coat of varnish not sticking to the factory finishes? As said earlier the Ruston seems to have a really smooth paint finish, almost like a die cast vehicle finish. 

[NHY 581]

1 minute ago, sb67 said:

 

Thanks Rob,  @NHY 581 I've got an 03 to do so will use that info, do you ever have problems with your initial coat of varnish not sticking to the factory finishes? As said earlier the Ruston seems to have a really smooth paint finish, almost like a die cast vehicle finish. 

 

 

 

Hi Steve. 

 

I would use any panel liner first as it flows better over a smooth finish. Then, if in doubt, spray with Matt Varnish. But be prepared for the powders to adhere straight away. So just a little to start until you get s feel for it. Easier to add than etc etc.....

 

Rob. 

[Daddyman]

44 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Thanks @Daddyman I've watched some youtube stuff on filters, albeit aimed at military modellers. I did spray some frame dirt along the underframe earlier but it doesn't seem to have ''stuck'' I tried wiping it off to get some streaks but the paint just come off so I'm now wondering if that would be the same using a filter, the Ruston seems to have a very smooth finish! 

Mmm. That's a tricky one. Matt varnish first might help to provide a keying-in surface, but there's the danger that it also lifts. I'd always use enamel and airbrush (no acrylics, no aerosols), so that you have a way back if things go wrong.  

 

[sb67]

While I was practicing with the airbrush, I but the bullet and started on this Dapol Sentinel, using Railmatch frame dirt and roof dirt and working from the George Dent Weathering for Railway Modellers book I got stuck in. Despite drying for 24 hours and the model being cleaned beforehand the weathering seems to be chipping off in places, the next step is a wash in panel lines etc and I fear that no matter how careful I am some will come off and I'll end up removing the lot and trying something else. I also think there was some sort of residue where the body joins the underframe, I was hoping to weather over that. 

The Ruston has had the Army lettering removed using T cut and is waiting for the next bit, while I decide how to do it. 

 

 

 

 

[NHY 581]

Hi Steve, 

 

Sounds like there was some oil lurking which has wicked up, under the applied weathering. 

 

Clean the inside of the body and the joins on the body and top of the chassis using some IPA. I fear the weathering around the number may need removing using the IPA and then reapply.

 

The colouring though looks spot on. 

 

Rob

[sb67]

7 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

Hi Steve, 

 

Sounds like there was some oil lurking which has wicked up, under the applied weathering. 

 

Clean the inside of the body and the joins on the body and top of the chassis using some IPA. I fear the weathering around the number may need removing using the IPA and then reapply.

 

The colouring though looks spot on. 

 

Rob

 

Thanks Rob, I cleaned the outside but didn't look inside, every day's a school day! I think, sometimes trying to weather over a mistake can look contrived, so rather than weather over the scratch I prob will remove all the body weathering and re do it. I'm not sure why the paint hadn't stuck though. 

[NHY 581]

1 hour ago, sb67 said:

 

Thanks Rob, I cleaned the outside but didn't look inside, every day's a school day! I think, sometimes trying to weather over a mistake can look contrived, so rather than weather over the scratch I prob will remove all the body weathering and re do it. I'm not sure why the paint hadn't stuck though. 

 

 

Morning Steve, I  learnt the hard way as well. Oil will get everywhere. The worst is when it gets between glued body parts.........It could be that there was oil on the inside of the body which was then transferred to the outside when handling. 

 

One thing I've started doing recently is wearing latex gloves when weathering. No matter how well you wash your paws, wearing gloves not only keeps one clean but stops any greasy finger prints. 

 

Rob

 

 

[NHY 581]

As an aside, seeing your Sentinel, has inspired me to weather one of mine to use on Ewe at the Uckfield show. 

 

Rob. 

[Enterprisingwestern]

2 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

Morning Steve, I  learnt the hard way as well. Oil will get everywhere. The worst is when it gets between glued body parts.........It could be that there was oil on the inside of the body which was then transferred to the outside when handling. 

 

One thing I've started doing recently is wearing latex gloves when weathering. No matter how well you wash your paws, wearing gloves not only keeps one clean but stops any greasy finger prints. 

 

Rob

 

 

 

I find the best prep for oily loco etc shells is a trip via the supersonic cleaner.

On the second point, as you will probably be aware, it's rather hot over here in Spain at the mo, just sitting at the modelling bench one sweats profusely, doesn't half make it tricky trying to not drop beads of sweat from various body parts onto whatever is undergoing surgery at the time! Fans are only partially an answer, keeps me cool, but blows little bits, transfers etc all over the place!

 

Mike.

[westernviscount]

Hi steve. I just trying to think of a time I have weathered direct onto a factory finish. I think the odd coach with washes and the old decalfix method but other than that I have always started with a sprayed matt coat. This may have prevented wicking? 

 

The reason I did this was because I didnt own an airbrush therefore needed a keying layer for the powders. I havent done much with the airbrush and havent had much success as yet. I had a real problem with my kit built hawksworth but that was to do with not cleanimg properly. 

 

So in summary, begin with a matt coat first? After decal removal of coursr. 

Edited August 18, 2023 by westernviscount

[sb67]

I re-weathered the Sentinal and prepped a few others for weathering soon. Cleaned everything and made sure I had gloves on so hopefully no problems. I wanted the number on the Sentinal to look like it had been cleaned and has started getting dirty again, need to add some coal to it as well. Going to let it all dray now then I'll add some powders etc. 

 @NHY 581 Rob, when you did the 03, did you spray the whole lot, underframe as well lightly with Matt varnish before adding powders?  

 

 

 

 

 

[sb67]

Bit the bullet and started work on my 2 Rustons I have, this one has been done using Oil's for a paint fade then washes, still a bit of work to do using some weathering powders, I also want to have some oil leaking from the bottom of the engine doors, but not sure how to do this as my bottle of AK Engine oil has congealed! 

 

 

 

This one has had a pin wash in the panel lines and a coat of matt varnish, I want to use @NHY 581's method of using powders. I'll start to fade the paint slightly with lighter colours the add more earthy weathering tones. 

 

[NHY 581]

On 21/08/2023 at 21:16, sb67 said:

I re-weathered the Sentinal and prepped a few others for weathering soon. Cleaned everything and made sure I had gloves on so hopefully no problems. I wanted the number on the Sentinal to look like it had been cleaned and has started getting dirty again, need to add some coal to it as well. Going to let it all dray now then I'll add some powders etc. 

 @NHY 581 Rob, when you did the 03, did you spray the whole lot, underframe as well lightly with Matt varnish before adding powders?  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Morning Steve. 

 

So sorry, I missed the question regarding the 03. To expand on the earlier descroption. 

 

With mine, I dismantled the little chap prior to weathering. I did this as there were areas which I thought would prove tricky to get at if it was left in one lump. 

 

So........

 

Ease out couplings F&R then remove body screws. 

 

Remove body. 

 

Undo the two teeny tiny screws on footplate that screw into bonnet. Remove two screws beneath cab. Separate bonnet/cab. 

 

TRICKY BIT. Separate cab from bonnet using thin plastic wedges. Guitar plectrums are ideal. Cab slides up and away from cab interior which is part of the bonnet. 

 

Remove coupling rods and jack shafts from wheels. 

 

Remove base plate and drop out wheels. 

 

Degrease everything. 

 

Mask motor, wheel treads, rear of wheels and jack shaft pivots. 

 

Good to go. 

 

Blast chassis, wheels and underside of footplate with matt dark earth aerosol, set aside. Allow as much as you feel right to carry over bottom of buffer beam. 

 

Spray coupling rods with matt varnish. 

 

Pinwash body. Pin wash door gap on cab. 

 

Mask cab windows with masking of choice. 

 

Spray body and cab with matt varnish. 

 

Black powders to coupling rod pivots. Other powders of choice. Seal with varnish. When dry, if they are of the pivoted type, check movement. 

 

Black powders to wheel centres as you see fit to suggest oily deposits. Black powders to shade air tanks etc on footplate. Remove any brown spray to pipes etc as you see fit. I use IPA which does this gradually. 

 

Top of footplate has smoke daubed over with black applied to inner edge where bonnet meets to suggest oil.

 

Body.....

 

Black powders around oil filler caps and down sides. Bottom of body at join with footplate also oily but work upwards from base.  A spot of dark earth over the bottom edge also works here and mutes the bottom edge of the black. Again, if it looks right, it probably is. 

 

Shading to either side of raised beads on bonnet top in Black powders. Brush black on the panel grills. Work ip and confine the powder to the grills themselves. 

 

Dark earth to bottom edge of wasp stripes to taste. Black to radiator grill with a bit of dmoke brushed over. 

Dust a mixture of smoke and dark earth over bonnet top. Fade top of bonnet and sides using sand  until happy or in fact omit this completely. 

 

Cab. 

 

Black to edge of cab front and pre shade roof strips. 

 Dark earth to bottom edge of cab sides and rear. 

Dust cab roof with same mixture of smoke and Dark Earth as bonnet. 

 

Once happy, usual light dusting with matt varnish to seal chassis, body wheels etc.

 

Remove masking, reassemble and play. 

 

 

Rob

 

 

Edited September 1, 2023 by NHY 581

[sb67]

Thanks for that detail Rob that's great, I've copied and pasted to a document for further reference and I'll adapt the methods for the Ruston, which I guess would weather in a similar way, before tackling the 03. 

[Daddyman]

4 hours ago, sb67 said:

Bit the bullet and started work on my 2 Rustons I have, this one has been done using Oil's for a paint fade then washes, still a bit of work to do using some weathering powders, I also want to have some oil leaking from the bottom of the engine doors, but not sure how to do this as my bottle of AK Engine oil has congealed! 

 

 

 

Very very nice! 

[sb67]

1 hour ago, Daddyman said:

Very very nice! 

Thank you. 

[AlfaZagato]

If you need oil stains, mix a bit of black and brown with some gloss, then thin the hell out of it.

[westernviscount]

Steve, the results you are showing on this thread really are excellent. The colour fade on the Ruston is spot on.