7mm King Street Goods

[Mike]

Thoughts, ideas and a some memory jogger pics.

* Also solder a wire to each POINT SWITCH BLADE bottom for dropping through the baseboard.  Did think of leaving those off but with short base 04's running about I'll need all the electrical feed I can get.

* Solder to the side of stock rails when track is laid down finally.  Pre-tin all track and points when soldering on the bench for ease when laying down.

* Consider all connecting to be finalised at the edge of the baseboards. Don't want to be doubled up underneath the baseboard.

* Test the viability of using up the slotted lidded trunking at edge of baseboard?

* Decide manual or servo point operation. Best may be to first do manual then swap over to server control later.

* Do I want a control board?.  Not sure of any value in this for me with it being a single op use & no exhibiting intended.  Probably nice to have but not need to have.

DRAWING AMENDED as per Ray.

Makes perfect sense to me.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Barnaby,

 

Not sure about the Peco point illustration, I reckon the stretcher should be insulated.

Hi Ray,

 

Are they not insulated straight from the box/RTL (across the stretcher/tie-bar)?

 

I shall modify mine anyway, but for the benefit of the other readers (and me) can you clarify.

 

Thanks.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[raymw]

Well, I'm not sure what Barnaby's drawing was showing, whether mechanical operation or electrical, or both. I assumed electrical since there was wiring for switching the frog. However, Barnaby has now altered his drawing, but is still not correct when compared to my Peco '0' gauge point, which may be quite old. The closure rails are connected to the switch blades by metal fishplates, and the switch blades run on bronze wipers (part of the switch) attached to the running rails, to that the blades are always at the same polarity as the adjacent running rails at the toe. If this was not so, then shorts could occur at the back of the wheels. (In the sketch, the bottom blade should be black.)

 

Best wishes,

Ray

[Barnaby]

Merry Christmas Ray.

The drawing was not meant to be and exact electrical circuit but to remind me how to mod the Peco points for switching the frog.   Each point blade is insulated by Peco from new all I was reminding myself was they both move together.  Where the red switch blade meets the black closure rail it pivots slightly and I am going to add a dropper to each switch blade bonding it to its nearest stock rail.  I do have this on another drawing which for more clarity I should add here too.

Maybe I should redo it properly adding the missing jigsaw pieces I have on my bench.

 

Happy days -- that'll teach me to splash something down in case I forgot it.   Do it once and do it right.

 

Best

[raymw]

the green is a bit bright

[puddlejumper]

Hi Barnaby

For what it's worth I think the sketch is really helpful especially as a reminder, the problem I always have is that I don't wire them often enough to retain the info so I have printed a copy of your sketch & laminated it to put in the useful odds & ends folder

Thanks again

Doug

[Barnaby]

Merry Christmas one and all.

 

I had hoped to get some Christmas build time in but the Station Goddess has declared we're going away for the New Year down to Cornwall just south of Bude.

 

Sneaking some bits & pieces into my case space just on the off chance I'm not totally Knackered after a days exploring and a full evening meal with beers and can do some holiday crafting.

 

Happy days.

[asa]

Merry Christmas Barnaby,enjoy your holiday.

[81A Oldoak]

Merry Christmas one and all.

 

I had hoped to get some Christmas build time in but the Station Goddess has declared we're going away for the New Year down to Cornwall just south of Bude.

 

Sneaking some bits & pieces into my case space just on the off chance I'm not totally Knackered after a days exploring and a full evening meal with beers and can do some holiday crafting.

 

Happy days.

I always have a small box with essential tools, a small selection of paints, other necessary items and a couple of Parkside or Slater's wagon kits just for such exigencies. I also try to ensure that any holiday destination in the UK is within 30 minutes of an operational preserved railway. Some favourite railway books and a coupl of B&R DVDs also find their way into the car.

 

I used to do the same in the in my army days. The signal box on Abersoch Mark 1 (Railway Modeller "Railway of the Month May 1995) was built in my bunk in the Bessbrook Mill SF base in South Armagh during an operational tour in 1984. I also knocked up a Perseverence compensated chassis for the then Mainline GWR 57xx 0-6-0PT on the same tour. Later, during the rainy season part of an operational tour to Belize in 1989, I built a couple of Ian Kirk Thompson coach kits and scratchbuilt a GER station; I was going through a phase at the time.

 

Have a good break and happy new year.

 

Regards,

 

Chris

[Barnaby]

No rest for the wayward modeller.  New year break was good and the weather suited the rugged jagged coastline of Cornwall.  Opened the Peco crane kit and ID-ed the contents . . . . .  twice and dry fitted them together once

So not much done on the modelling front while I was away and my hobby room is lifeless too no engines steamed up and dead diesels all  are sleeping in their boxes 'cept for the Fowler which gets used in layout proving test drives.

 

The new guttering, soffits and facias look good as does the new front door, framing and side glass panels so at least the Station Mistress is happy.

 

I had hoped to complete my layout to all track laid through last year but there have been too many other demands on my time.

Who was it who said just wait 'till you retire then you'll have plenty of time, oh yes it was my wife. 

I thought she meant "to play trains" but she meant to get all the jobs done that work had got in the way of.

 

At least today thanks to a Chris Klein post "prompt" I've been reading my forgotten about RailDIGEST's of Iain Rice fame and found some bits and bobs of use.

Bits and bobs I'll have to Google that.

 There you go:- Bits and Bobs also is English slang for a collection of small items too numerous or varied to name individually. It originated from carpenters' tool kits containing parts for a drill, with bits used for making holes while bobs are routing or screwdriving drill attachments.

 

Regards

 

PS

Similarly following on from the above Google I'm reminded that while watching Michael Portillo railway journeys on BBC2 the other night he was talking about the Asylums they built in Victorian times and the fact that they were never viewable from the passing road as the drive up to the front was always curved away. Hence the saying GOING ROUND THE BEND.

Edited January 28, 2015 by Barnaby

[raymw]

ot - bits and bobs, I can't find any reference to carpenters having 'bobs' for the use as described. I believe the wiki, and others are wrong in their definition. Many places the expression could have originated from  - it could be 'bob' being derived from North country slang shortened form for 'bobbins of cotton', (from Cockney 'rotten') rubbish,  and originally been 'bits of bob'  - bits of rubbish. Maybe even the 12.5 cents of USA currency, and the English shilling, maybe somewhere there is a picture/description of a bob that would be used in a carpenter's brace (even 'hobs' aren't used in that context). Hobs and bits would have been small/large tools in a machine shop. Perhaps early machinists were carpenters.

[Barnaby]

Slow slow very slow thinking of re-jigging the layout no no noooooo.

Some scene aid photos>>>

 

[Barnaby]

Yippeee ki yay I got a Lcut delivery. http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/main&title=Home

STEP 1.

Fantastic quick delivery ordered Sunday night arrived first thing Tuesday morning in the post.

Very well packed in a study lo-profile cardboard box - when opened there was bubble wrap about the poly bagged parts - on opening the poly bag there was a wiff of lightly toasted wood mmnnnnn.

Once out of the bag the parts are impressive and beautifully laser-cut very crisp and very clean.

STEP 2.

Dry build up of the parts and now I can't wait to get the glue pot out to complete the build.

 

One small instruction error in that it says to glue the top parapet piece [LCC 70-59 ]to the back of itself when I think it should say to the back of the main wall [LCC 70-56]. There is only one top parapet strip supplied which is correct. No big problem and easy to correct.

 

I really like this product it is a very good price, very good quality with a speedy service and delivery what more could a modeller want.

 

Great work Lcut very good

?

?

?

?

Any chance of a warehouse panel and roof, something like the brick arch panel but stackable so as to make a 2 story building with lots of big arched windows. or some platforms long and short and some yard crane bases all in brick.

better stop with my wish list.

 

I've posted some photos of the opening ceremony.

 

 

Best

Edited February 26, 2015 by Barnaby

[alant]

Looking forward to see these develop Mark.

[Barnaby]

Having now printed out the manual from Lcut I'll add a few notes from myself.
1/  water down PVA a little 10% to aid application and flow.
2/  CARE CARE don't get any glue on face of material, damp cloth to wipe away immediately.
3/  use super glue to "pin" the parts into position and hold while PVA sets.
4/  build first before painting.
5/  Prime/seal [grey] before top painting.
 
Liking the door overlay to give some definition to the braces.
 
photo 1] pre-build parts with ID tags removed
photo 2] top line should read glue 70-59 back to back with 70-56

Edited February 24, 2015 by Barnaby

[BrushType4]

Any chance of a warehouse panel and roof, something like the brick arch panel but stackable so as to make a 2 story building with lots of big arched windows. or some platforms long and short and some yard crane bases all in brick.

better stop with my wish list.

Hi Barnaby,

 

I am producing a modular warehouse based on a prototype in Manchester if it is of interest?

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/89331-my-laser-cutting-workbench-and-my-odyssey-in-model-buildings/

Post #17

[Barnaby]

Hello Brush yes I am very interested in the warehouse like you show in that post.  I tried to find some more details on your webby but found nothing.  Can you post an update and have you got any idea of costing/panel size yet?.

 

You also show some excellent painting shots how are you achieving this.  Do you seal/prime first then and apply several thin coats?  What medium are you using.to achieve those result.  The painting of the wood is the one thing that worries me with the lasered wood but I must say yours looks great.  I am going to use some grey primer then when dry apply some thin coats of the chosen brick colour all in acrylics.

[BrushType4]

Hi Barnaby,

 

I use good quality MDF, ply or card and most of my kits are based on 2mm MDF or 3mm Ply so this means that you can paint without having to seal but I recommend that Halfords primer is used as a base coat.

 

Red oxide can be used and once weathered down by the application of a runny layer of cream coloured paint for the mortar course tones can look very good.

 

But you are able to paint without primer and so have fun experimenting. I'm particularly pleased with the London brick finish in my posts. The name of the paint brand escapes me but I'll edit this later once I remember. Painting the bricks singularly in acrylics without a primer is fine as long as you don't get the work very wet for long periods of time.

 

To the warehouse components, I have several modules ready drawn based on the design in my thread. I wasn't intending to offer the modules for sale separately but rather offer the option for customer to choose the modules and design as they want and I'd cut them for a single one piece warehouse side. Some feedback on that idea would be appreciated. I'll get the sizes and work out some costs today.

Edited February 25, 2015 by BrushType4

[Barnaby]

some learning's.................

Use a very sharp blade and cut right on the cut line. leaving any overs means you will have to sand it down and the wood is delicate and can delaminate. Long slow strokes using fine sandpaper blocks covers it.

I had one or two individual bricks pop out easy enough to glue back but better not to have to do it. I intend to make use of this to show some brick distressing.

 

Going to have a go at painting some off-cuts with and with out any primer.

Edited February 26, 2015 by Barnaby

[Mike]

Looking good.

[Barnaby]

After observing a very good back scene on Neil Mason's layout EDDINGTON YARD I did some research.  It appears there are several sources for these l o n g backscenes with the manufacturer being ID Backscenes I'll probably use this supplier http://www.petersspares.com for mine having used them before. They were very prompt in their shipping and have a big range of stock. 
 
See under SCENIC - PHOTO BACKSCENES.    I like the 15 inch tall ones which come in 2 x 5 foot lengths particularly the Distribution depo #210 or Distant town #204 I just need to decide which and order up.
I intend to just temp place the backscene in position to help set up my low relief buildings and marry them into my layout tweaking where I need too.  I suspect I may need to elevate the horizon to get the perspective right.
 
best
 
EDIT:  ORDERED #210 DIRECT FROM THE MANUFACTURER.

Edited February 27, 2015 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

Update on LCUT warehouse >>> Thanks for the update LCUT. I'll be ordering one warehouse as soon as it is available fingers crossed for the promised 2 weeks time..

I was going to have it as low relief requiring only the front half and using the rear half else where but I've decided to build with 4 walls but modify it in 3 ways.

1] move the side office to align with the front wall to allow for 2] an opening in the same side so a wagon can enter the warehouse. This will require me to 3] alter the flooring and move the platform inside to align with the track so the wagons can unload. I may include a crane inside too.

That should be a reasonably easy modification to achieve but I wont know until I get my hands on the real thing but looking at the 00 version it looks ok to do.

[Barnaby]

Wow some fantastic laser stuff about.

Just been looking at this photo of a warehouse panel from Intentio Design [brushType4] in post on these RM forums. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/89331-my-laser-cutting-workbench-and-my-odyssey-in-model-buildings/page-1

Fabulous cutting and look at those sills and brick end details gorgeous work.

 

I'll have to get some to test out but they do look magnificent and I think they would fit in with me wanting to have rail entry and be LMS/GWR located if painted and logo-ed suitably.

 

Mnnnnnn yummy-delicious.

Edited February 28, 2015 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

Some painting sequence reminders.

LET DRY BETWEEN COATS

PRIME  --  gives a key coat & reveals any blemishes - normally white or light grey. HALFORDS rat can. 

PAINT  --  top coat  the finish coat as out of factory -- light colours before dark where possible.

WASH  --  WEATHERING for the crevasses nooks & crannies.  at least 2 thinners to 1 paint, be gravity aware - a dot of the Fairy's will help the flow.

DRY BRUSH  --  WEATHERING for the highlight of raised detail. dip brush into neat paint then paint it out on tissue first so that only faint traces show.  Maybe thin @ 0.5 thinners to 1 paint if desired.

DECALS  --  if water release only soak until first movement is seen otherwise glue washes out.

VARNISH  --  to protect the finish.

NB. as I'm  switching over to ACRYLICS I varied my PRIME coat by thinning down the finish coat at 2 thinners [water] to 1 paint.

 

POWDERS  --  these can add further subtle details and texture [talc].

to be continued dishwasher eng here................... all done, required new pump motor, I will have one VERY happy Station Mistress when she come home. .

Edited March 5, 2015 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

Researching the ready cut sizes for Bendy MDF [ www.builderdepot.co.uk/matchboard-6mm-x-1220mm-x-2440mm-flexible-standard-mdf-portrait-column.html ]   to mount my backscene on. trying to avoid the right angle in the sky.  Size probably 20 inches high I want to test fit my photo backscene and see how the buildings and track will interact with it.  I suspect there will some tweaking needed.  I want to raise the photo's horizon line and not have it down to the baseboard level.

My photo is in 2 x 5 foot lengths and my layout is 12 foot long but I'm hoping that I can show just sky where the buildings will block the backscene.  I need to physically play about with this to get the balance right as just thinking is not making it happen.

 

......... or using some 3mm birch ply which might be bendy enough.

Edited March 5, 2015 by Barnaby