BG John Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I'm learning all this stuff at 60, and trying to catch up with 40 mostly lost years when I didn't know what I think I know now. By the time I get to 70 I hope I'll be expert at simplifying things, and be able to take my time with modelling, knowing that I've achieved all my lifelong objectives, and can relax and enjoy it! I can dream of it, anyway . 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 For older modellers. Mental Capacity - Brain Power. Brains of older people are slow because they know so much . People do not decline mentally with age, it just takes them longer to recall facts because they have more information in their brains, scientists believe .. Much like a computer struggles as the hard drive gets full, so, too, do humans take longer to access information when their brains are full. Researchers say this slowing down process is not the same as cognitive decline ... The human brain works slower in old age, said Dr. Michael Ramscar, but only because we have stored more information over time. The brains of older people do not get weak. On the contrary, they simply know more .. Also, older people often go to another room to get something and when they get there, they stand there wondering what they came for. It is NOT a memory problem, it is nature's way of making older people do more exercise .. SO THERE!! sorry for the Hi-jack 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 LOL Mike I regularly run upstairs to get something only to come back down wondering why I went up there asking myself each step of the way down only to remember when I set foot on the last step and have to go back up again. Blow-ed if I can find the sensor on that step.? This layout is some 12 1/2Ft long but I have long admired your approach of a micro layout and if I want it to be longer I just add another Micro unit to it. Seems like a good idea. That will be the way ahead for me a KISS Micro layout. Best 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) For older modellers. Mental Capacity - Brain Power. Brains of older people are slow because they know so much . People do not decline mentally with age, it just takes them longer to recall facts because they have more information in their brains, scientists believe .. Much like a computer struggles as the hard drive gets full, so, too, do humans take longer to access information when their brains are full. Researchers say this slowing down process is not the same as cognitive decline ... The human brain works slower in old age, said Dr. Michael Ramscar, but only because we have stored more information over time. The brains of older people do not get weak. On the contrary, they simply know more .. Also, older people often go to another room to get something and when they get there, they stand there wondering what they came for. It is NOT a memory problem, it is nature's way of making older people do more exercise .. SO THERE!! sorry for the Hi-jack That explains why I was calling an old friend of my dad's by the wrong name today.....I'm in my 50s now and still feel that I should know more! LOL!! I also seem to need different glasses for almost every activity!! Edited August 9, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 That explains why I was calling an old friend of my dad's by the wrong name today.....I'm in my 50s now and still feel that I should know more! LOL!! I also seem to need different glasses for almost every activity!! That may be your problem. Your memory would probably improve if you cut down drastically, but if you can't, just drink straight out of a bottle of whatever you prefer while doing each activity . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 LOL Mike I regularly run upstairs to get something only to come back down wondering why I went up there asking myself each step of the way down only to remember when I set foot on the last step and have to go back up again. Blow-ed if I can find the sensor on that step.? This layout is some 12 1/2Ft long but I have long admired your approach of a micro layout and if I want it to be longer I just add another Micro unit to it. Seems like a good idea. That will be the way ahead for me a KISS Micro layout. Best I wouldn't worry too much about the length of the layout. Perhaps you can keep it simple by reducing the complexity of the track plan whilst retaining the length of the overall layout. That will also reduce the complexity of the electronics. On my last layout, I resisted the temptation to cram more track in but this did reduce operational interest. For the new layout, I have more space (approx. 12ft x 3ft) but will still try to keep track to a minimum. Having said that, I'll still probably put more track in than I need! Stephen 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 16, 2016 Author Share Posted August 16, 2016 (edited) Well I've revised & simplified my point actuation to the following photo. Using my experience from my R/C aircraft days where I wanted full throttle range without any hard stops for the servo to hit I have made this. The components required are:- 1x cycle spoke 1x small length 1mm piano wire 2x saddle clamps [red in the picture] 1x 2" piece of silicone tube. [must be an interference fit over the spoke & piano wire & allow them to slide past each other when résistance is met] 1x chock block insert to use as a handle on the end of the piano wire. It is hand operated from the left hand end. Looking at the picture the black spoke is @ left hand end Connected to left end is the chock block insert used as a handle First red clamp screwed under base board Silicone tube with spoke and piano wire in it 2nd red clamp guiding piano wire & screwed to base board Right angle bend in piano wire to go up through point actuator slide bar. The chock block insert on spoke end passes through the BB side frame. Set up is to push the point over and slide and tighten the insert down on to the spoke while up against the wood side frame. . Set all other points the same way. Probably fit a micro switch or a slide switch to operate the frog polarity change over. At a later date I may add some leds to show on a mimic panel if I want using a twin ganged single action micro switch. 1 ops the point the other the leds. This arrangement allows the 2 wires to slide passed each other when no more point movement is required. Pushing back the other way the tube friction moves the point immediately, but will slide again if a stop is reached. It works Edited August 16, 2016 by Barnaby 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 26, 2016 Author Share Posted August 26, 2016 More musings from the workshop errrr I mean the dinning room table. I decided that I would like to operate each point from either side of the layout, depending which side I have decided to operate from for that session. This was quite simple to do as it just required me to replicate the snake push rods, the simple friction slip system and a chock block insert for coupling to the opposite side. Whilst bench testing shows the operation to work well I am a little concerned that the latch over is just relying on the slide switch mechanism "stiffness". With this doubt in mind I toyed with making some latch over mechanism using some biro springs, small ball bearing to create a simple spring loaded latch. That's when I discovered these, so no need to re-invent the wheel and I could put my model time to something else I placed an order. They're very cute, small and quick to make up and fit. Onwards and . . . . sideways bullfrog-dimensions.pdf frog.docx 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted August 31, 2016 Author Share Posted August 31, 2016 Speedy delivery from FastTracks of Canada 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Hello Barnaby, Like the look of your latest "present" and would be interested in seeing how you get on with these. Can we have a photo of an installed one please. This might be useful to me if ever I finally get around to building my proposed German layout in O once I have finished Ramchester. Look forward to hearing how you get on. Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Speedy delivery from FastTracks of Canada That's what I call good service ... I'd also be interested in seeing one made up and how well it works on your layout. After all, it only "assembles in 15 minutes" according to the packaging! Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 1st one complete, took about 15 mins-ish probably build a little quicker on the next but not by much. I'll probably build the others before I start to install them. It all click-clacks ok and is quite a positive action. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 More musings from the workshop errrr I mean the dinning room table. I decided that I would like to operate each point from either side of the layout, depending which side I have decided to operate from for that session. This was quite simple to do as it just required me to replicate the snake push rods, the simple friction slip system and a chock block insert for coupling to the opposite side. Whilst bench testing shows the operation to work well I am a little concerned that the latch over is just relying on the slide switch mechanism "stiffness". With this doubt in mind I toyed with making some latch over mechanism using some biro springs, small ball bearing to create a simple spring loaded latch. That's when I discovered these, so no need to re-invent the wheel and I could put my model time to something else I placed an order. They're very cute, small and quick to make up and fit. Onwards and . . . . sideways Speedy delivery from FastTracks of Canada 1st one complete, took about 15 mins-ish probably build a little quicker on the next but not by much. I'll probably build the others before I start to install them. It all click-clacks ok and is quite a positive action. Hi Barnaby, That was a good find - simple, effective and ingenious! Watching things develop with great interest, keep up the good works! ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 1, 2016 Author Share Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Production line active.............. Best Edited September 1, 2016 by Barnaby 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 (edited) All 8 completed. Working out their positioning and need to get some cycle spokes to make up some double ended threaded "Z" bends so I can operate them from front or back of layout. Also considering whether to run the "snake push rods to one position and use my lever frame to operate them. I need to have a play. Z bend op Edited September 2, 2016 by Barnaby 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) Where am I now, well the 8 x Bullfrogs are all installed under the board. Also they can be operated both from the front or rear of the layout depending where I choose to stand. Still tidying up the wiring and I'm thinking of adding Point levers instead of the slide mechanism as I have now. EDIT The lever arms will operate on the snakes/pushrods where they protrude through the side frame. Instead of me doing the push/pull action by direct contact with the rods I will add a lever to do it for me. This will have the added benefit of making the rail closure in tandem with the lever movement ie if the lever is set to the back, the point rail will switch close towards the back too. Edited October 10, 2016 by Barnaby 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 Nice work Barnaby, keep plugging away you are make great progress! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 10, 2016 Author Share Posted October 10, 2016 (edited) I have been messing with using Linc couplings which are uncoupled by a buried magnets. However I have recently decided that if it already exists why try to make it while applying the KISS protocol. Remember I was getting into Megapoints electronic control for all my route selection and point switching but decided it was becoming too technical when for my small 8 point shunty plank I could use a mechanical push/pull system. Therefore with the couplings I've now decided to go the route of others on here and use suitably tweaked Nem units probably the X9289 one, KISS strikes again. All plastic with a metal hook fitted. Time to have a play with a wagon, shouldn't be too awkward to install. Happy days quicker and nearer to PLAY TIME. Edited October 10, 2016 by Barnaby 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) I have been messing with using Linc couplings which are uncoupled by a buried magnets. However I have recently decided that if it already exists why try to make it while applying the KISS protocol. Remember I was getting into Megapoints electronic control for all my route selection and point switching but decided it was becoming too technical when for my small 8 point shunty plank I could use a mechanical push/pull system.Therefore with the couplings I've now decided to go the route of others on here and use suitably tweaked Nem units probably the X9289 one, KISS strikes again.All plastic with a metal hook fitted. Time to have a play with a wagon, shouldn't be too awkward to install.Happy days quicker and nearer to PLAY TIME.A man after my own heart! Recently I had a wobble and wondered if the; 'Three link couplings are a joy to use in 7mm' brigade were right? Had a play with my Fowler and Lionheart tanks, true to say that the tanks' three links were a bit sticky around the hooks, as they were a little tight, but notwithstanding, with 50 something eyesight, even in good light, they were NOT a joy for me, not to mention the phaff of an uncoupling hook and such doing damage to paint and/or details. At least it lets me know that TL couplings, with bits of metal the odd magnet or two, works a treat, and in 7mm are not all that noticeable. ATVB CME Edited October 11, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 Some coupling notes incase I need them. Coupling variants.docx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Three links are a bit of a faff, but look great when a goods train pulls away (or stops a bit quickly). They are a positive nuisance on passenger stock, when the loose-coupled look is exactly wrong, so all my corridor stock is fitted with Kadees within the rakes. I persevere with 3-links for the appearance, and put up with the looseness on non-corridor stock. Where I despair is with the knitting that can be achieved when 3-link and Alex Jackson couplings are combined. The AJ's are really very good when they're good, but unlike a certain lady, are not better when they're bad. They are nearly invisible, and do allow delayed uncoupling. But when the harpoon goes through the instanter link of the next wagon... Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 Three links are a bit of a faff, but look great when a goods train pulls away (or stops a bit quickly). They are a positive nuisance on passenger stock, when the loose-coupled look is exactly wrong, so all my corridor stock is fitted with Kadees within the rakes. I persevere with 3-links for the appearance, and put up with the looseness on non-corridor stock. Where I despair is with the knitting that can be achieved when 3-link and Alex Jackson couplings are combined. The AJ's are really very good when they're good, but unlike a certain lady, are not better when they're bad. They are nearly invisible, and do allow delayed uncoupling. But when the harpoon goes through the instanter link of the next wagon... Best Simon Hi Simon, The AJs also dont like the slop of 7mm (32mm gauge), in other words they really are finescale coupling - but dont work all that well with 7mm FS - or none prototypical curves etc etc. AJs, Lincs and Winterleys are all good couplings (Dinghams too, although I have seen some layouts struggle with them), yet require setting up, work well in certain - but not all - applications, they arent as robust as eg TLs. We use three links in SM32, yet I am wondering if we should now plump for chopper couplings as loose coupled goods/mixed goods are a bit of a chore behind a live steamer.... Just like the real railway there is no simple or easy, one size fits all, answer, more than one coupling system is often required even on the same layout, and it really is a case of horses for courses. ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) I used Tenmille choppers on my 16mm stuff. Looked sufficiently like the real thing to my eye, and worked well. My Rushton's and Binnie tippers were linked with loops of fine chain. Fiddly but fun! Best Simon Edited October 11, 2016 by Simond 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I used Tenmille choppers on my 16mm stuff. Looked sufficiently like the real thing to my eye, and worked well. My Rushton's and Binnie tippers were linked with loops of fine chain. Fiddly but fun! Best Simon Sounds good to me Simon! The Binnie Tippers are a joy but there is no other choice than fiddly coupling for them LOL! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 11, 2016 Author Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) Love the Binnie Tippers never heard of the "Tenmille choppers" so went and Googled them and found I did know just not what they were called. The big scale is great to look at though. Thanks for you comments gents much appreciated. Edited October 11, 2016 by Barnaby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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