Modifying/Motorising GBL Models - A2/3 on the cheap

[rowanj]

I'm trying to pull together earlier conversions on this thread, and found the photos I took of a 9F. The loco is based on an ER example with double chimney, The body is on a Bachmann chassis, which I'm amazed I managed to get before the price explosion of recent months. I fitted wire handrails as usual, some additional pipework and an AWS cylinder beneath the cab door. It still needs the "banger plate" under the buffer beam. The odd error to the cab sides was also corrected - it should have a slope where it meets the footplate. I also carefully removed the horrible moulded lamps - not too hard if you detach the smoke deflectors.

The resin tender is from Golden Arrow, running on a Triang chassis.

I did another version on a Hornby tender-drive chassis and this too was straightforward. On that one, I used the GBL body with wire handrails and an old etched ladder to replace the moulded version. Tedious, but not difficult.

[rowanj]

I have made a start on the GBL A4, which will be attached to the GBL Scotsman Corridor tender to become 60030 Golden Fleece, for no other reason that I have the nameplates already. The attached photos show progress to date, with the bodies just loose fitted to the chassis, hence the misalignments. They do line up nice and cleanly when I take care.

 

The tender will have nothing much more than handrails and real coal added. I'm hoping that Hornby tender wheels will run o.k in the GBL chassis, but am waiting for delivery to check. Otherwise, I'll invest in a Hornby tender chassis.

 

I removed the valence on the loco - over-removed on one side, hence the filler. Holes have been drilled for lamp-irons and a replacement whistle and buffers-  the plastic ones were very fragile. I've made a start fitting handrails but the body is otherwise pretty bare. One job I always struggle with on BR-era A4's is the front casting on which the numberplate sits. If anyone knows a quick dodge.....?

.

[Frappington Jct]

To avoid doing the smokebox number plate you could leave it in garter blue and just put the words 'BRITISH RAWAYS' on the tender as they would have been in the very early days of BR

[rowanj]

To avoid doing the smokebox number plate you could leave it in garter blue and just put the words 'BRITISH RAWAYS' on the tender as they would have been in the very early days of BR

Too early for the period I model, I'm afraid. It's an awkward little shape to fettle, because of the shape of the nose. But thanks for the thought.

[rowanj]

To the horror of LNER purists, the A4 has emerged from the paintshops in BR Brunswick Green, to where it will be returned to tidy up the black here and there. It still needs a few bits and pieces, including the very prominent reversing lever, and then I move on to one of my least favourite jobs - lining.

The loco/tender connection will be a straightforward hook/gatepost. None of my A3/4's have a live connection to the tender but they work smoothly through Insulfrog points. I remember Tony Wright doing this on a "How To" DVD years ago.

To fix the body to the chassis, I stuck some plasticard to what remains of the valence to make a forcefit over the cylinders, and will fit a self tapping screw at the rear into the cab floor.

The next photos will be of the completed loco prior to, as a 34A model, light weathering.

[46256]

Rowanj's thanks for these photos these are the sort of projects I'm into. You will note my posts in the GBL thread. I particularly enjoy when the original model is utilised to produce something entirely ( well not entirely as you wouldn't start with that particular example...or would you?) In any event have a number of modelling projects currently being worked on, my main interest is 1950s to 70 s West Midlands LM region however have any number of guest locos.

 

Projects in workshops. Swindon class 123 dmu four car set green MTK cabs Bachmann coaches with worsley models etched sides....DP2... Silver fox body Bachmann deltic chassis...shawplan windows 1960s overall green...double chimney castle. GBL body...handmade chassis frames..comet motion...black5 Ivatt caprotti high footplate...nearly became airborne when I messed up front driver as per my GBL post....GBL D11 will remain as preserved...hand built chassis...I have the GBL Scotsman..Mallard...28xx...K3... Whether I shall ever motorise them .....possibly not especially as I have plans to add two princesses to my fleet with the variations to their motion.If you wish will share some of my photos on this thread...is that what you were inviting back on GBL site rather than create my own entry. In any event really like your work, best wishes

[46256]

black 5 front driver replaced now working as intended and ready for paint shops will post when sry

Or even dry...too much superglue on fingers

[rowanj]

Lined on both sides of the loco and one side of the tender. I used Fox Transfers and for some reason find their lining hard work. The corners have a habit of tearing, and the straights twist. But they have less carrying film than Modelmaster, which I admit I prefer .So its pros and cons,

Other than finishing the lining, there is still coal to add, and the reversing rod. A quick search has so far failed to turn up any suitable scrap .I'll then see if any easily added "super-detail" can be added, before a final visit to the paintshop for some light weathering. I've ordered draincocks which I think add a lot to the overall look. So the next snaps should be the last of the completed loco.

[46256]

My black 5

Sorry won't attach from this format

[rowanj]

46256 has kindly agreed to allow me to post photos of his clever conversion of the GBL Black 5 to the Caprotti version, which clearly shows the potential of these cheap donors as modelling projects. I hope he will add a few notes of "how I did it" in due course.

Edit - 4 further photos added of the almost completed models.

[46256]

John thank you for presenting my work on this site. I hope it compliments your own efforts. I believe we both share an ambition to use these and other available components to produce models that are better than the sum of their parts. In addition creating some models that may or will not be covered by the big guys. I must firstly state my sadness that an unintended consequence of the success in 4mm of the big manufacturers has been the decline of the smallers concerns. These traders have supplied the little items that lift these models. In particular the recent sadness concerning Comet models. I am in the fortunate position that I have an extensive collection of small parts from this source. This is not to underrate other concerns stil active, in fact 247 developments, high level kits and Worsley models have been recent suppliers with whom I have had excellent service from in recent times.Any follower of the GBL thread will have seen this model take shape...please I will expand on any area that might be requested, likewise do not want to over egg the pudding. In conclusion for now, and please not with any false modesty these are layout locos that in my mind look the part, work well , and have given me enjoyment to build, and hopefully share in this forum

[rowanj]

As "Prince Palatine" had to go into the works for a casual light repair, (i.e replacing dislodged and now missing draincocks), I took the opportunity to take photos to add to this thread. The body is the GBL Scotsman on a Railroad Chassis, to which I fitted the detailed valve gear, Other then the obvious repaint, the body mods were to handrails, some "fiddly bits" of fuse wire on the smokebox, and a representation of the ash-pan lever below the RH cab side. The GBL 107 boiler is correct for this loco at the end of it's life, and is supposed to be "ex-works"

The tender was a bit more work. The body is a Hornby tender-drive, running on the latest loco-drive chassis. The original tender moulding is 4mm too wide and 1mm to high, one of those irritating things to which my eye was always drawn. I have a few of these bodies, so took the Dremel and Xacto tools to cut off the offending parts. I needed to reinstate all the rear end detail from plasticard/staples and form a new tender top, much of which is covered by coal anyway. I used parts from the second body for the tender filler, etc. It's all far from perfect, but I'm fairly pleased how it all turned out. And of course it meant I have a spare GBL corridor tender for another day.

[46256]

John love a3s in BR green, German smoke deflectors and GN tenders....almost enough to turn the head of a committed Midlander...lovely work cheers Brian

[rowanj]

Here is completed A4 60030 "Golden Eagle", lightly dusted as befits a KX A4 after a trip to Newcastle and back, The next A4 on my list is 60019 Bittern, and as a Gateshead engine, will be considerably grimier.

I have also posted the underframe of the tender, showing a money saving dodge, not for the purists, but one that works ok. I bought some tender chassis tops, i.e minus wheels and keeper plate , for £5 or so. The GBL tender keeper fits the Hornby part, though need trimming to avoid the grooves in which the wheels sit. I also cheated and used a pair of coach wheels for the centre pair rather than the Hornby tender wheels. It runs very freely, better in fact than a Hornby version, and has the added advantage that the GBL keeper plate shows clearly where to drill through the Hornby piece to pass the GBL self-tapping screws through the chassis to meet the fittings in the tender top.

 

[46256]

completed class 5 weathered glazed...and wonky running board straightened..plus little steps added to frames entering my fiddle yard....castle frames woked out of brass...no spring detail but will hopefully rn true  poor photo of a stanier class 3..airfix std 4 boiler firebox...cab windows from same source cut out and stuck into new scratch plastic sides...gibson chimney and comet chassis...stanier 260 scratch metal cab and footplate..Hornby 8f firebox and boiler...Bachmann tender bough for a lot more than the GBL compound one later...

[rowanj]

As it looks to be a long time before a Black 5 chassis turns up, and given the sad situation currently at Comet, I've decided to bite the bullet and try to build a scratch built chassis for the GBL model. Con rods were obtained and used as the template for the wheelbase, and the etch measured against the GBL body to give reasonably accurate length. I'll be using Hornby valve gear, cylinders and leading bogie, and tender chassis.

The assembly was straightforward, using Comet jigs to keep it all square. The wheels ( Markits) were already in my spares box and are actually 0.5 mm too big and probably have too many spokes ? But the intention with all my GBL models is to keep the costs reasonable and have fun modelling. However, I confess that building chassis's is not my favourite part of the hobby.The holes are drilled for brakes, but I'm not going too fit springs unless I find them in the spares box Motor/gearbox is from DJH

Photos show the untouched body lying loosely on the chassis. Next stage is fitting the con rods to check running,

[46256]

John looking good must be be therapeutic working on a good old midland loco as opposed to you usual eastern varieties....no need to rly to this particular post.. I think I might already have an inkling of how you might reply...one little trick if not already aware stand your chassis on a piece of glass...it's amazing even after using such aids as the comet jigs how a little misalignment can work in with the soldering process...without this you may get as I have in past the " derail"

 

On that last note in the bellagio in Vegas a few years ago with my beloved...watching a model train negotiate the ornamental gardens in that hotel..." Love that train is different to yours" " yes darling it's far bigger and American in outline"

 

 

" no love it stays on the track.."

 

 

 

 

 

Vegas is famous for its quickie marriages.........and divorces

[rowanj]

Well , that didn't work. I just couldn't get rid of the tight spots when I fitted the coupling rods. However all that's wasted is time and some brass etch, so I'll start again in a few days. Nothing ventured...at least I have some better ideas for the design of the chassis.

[46256]

John i know its by way of photo but it looks square and true...are you using RTR coupling rods.....i know they have generous holes for crankpins....if comet for example a carefull opening oout with a broach can usually improve things. Which wheel set does it bind on ...a tip from Ian Rice is to treat a 060 chassis as an 040...check front axle with middle then middle with rear....in any event send me a mailing address and will send this cylinder etc for compound.....if at first you dont succeed.......................give up ( H simpson)...........only joking....Nil carborundum illegitimmi....NS Fletcher...

[46256]

Please bear with me have just taken these photos with iPad and put them thru an app suggested by another member...sincere thank you...anyway in addition to these already photoed models have added a 9f with 1f tender...also on a more photogenic part of layout

[rowanj]

After my disaster with the Black 5 chassis, to which I will return, I've flown to the safety of the LNER in the shape of another D11/1. The chassis is the excellent ex-GEM Glen/Scott, obtained from Lytchett Models as suggested by Will5210 earlier in this thread. It goes together beautifully and should be suitable, with any necessary tweaking, for any 40mm 4-4-0 wheelbase loco.

I've just perched the body on the chassis at this stage, and it sits too high, I'll clean it up and fit the motor before doing any cutting of the body, as I want to preserve as much material as possible to fill with liquid lead. The kit also includes the tender chassis and I'm inclined to fit pickups, given the relatively short loco wheelbase.

[46256]

John nice work with the above chassis....I know only too well how you are currently feeling about the class 5 chassis. In my own case mine Nearly became airborne of the end of my shoe. I note you used etched con rods to obtain the wheel centres on frames. Please if you have already tried these then please disregard.

 

Firstly offer the rods to the axle centres of the markit wheel. The holes on the rods should correspond. Secondly gently open out the rod holes with a broach...drill, I stress carefully as I've damaged far too many rods by over exuberance. Thirdly the Ian rice tip in establishing which axle combination is causing the bind. Thirdly place the chassis on plate glass to detect any misalignment....lastly chuck it on the bin and take up golf.......the last will only spoil a good walk....keep the faith cheers Brisn

[rowanj]

I 've now tacked on the front extension, which is a separate, fold-up etch, to the chassis block. The instructions advise you to bolt the 2 together but I wanted to fit it a touch higher to clear the leading bogie. It now sits at what seems to be just the right height to support the GBL footplate. The holes/slots will make it easy to fit the loco and chassis together with self- tapping screws. The chassis stretchers are mini boxes so I hope I'll be able to drop a bit of liquid lead in them.After a bit of filing, it's into the paint shop, then refit the wheels and motor.

[rowanj]

I cut the footplate where the chassis should fit, and found it was far too "nose up". My first instinct was simply to re-solder the front extension before realising that, as it is a tight fit on the wheeled part of the chassis, an easier option would be to use a self-tapping screw to fix it to the loco footplate. As there is a slot in the extension, it gives the opportunity to make a good fit both on the loco and the leading bogie. .I hope the photos show this . the loco will be attached by another self-tapping screw at the rear, which will pull it down to nearer the correct height, Coupling rods have been soldered - they come in the normal two parts which need sweated together. All runs smoothly so the next test is fitting the motor. The whole thing is as light as a feather and will do well to pull 2 coaches downhill until I get some weight in it,

[46256]

Johns note what you've done by tacking on front frame extensions...you are aware I was debating this with my own scratch chassis...would you recommend it over fixing front bogie to the body as per the Bachmann original this was copied from?