westerner Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Spent pm touching up slightly and very carefully scraping paint from door handles and grab handles. It started to bring it too life. Kitchen side. Corridor side 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 If anyone's interested, and broke like me, this £10.50 ebay item might be a possible H33 conversion project. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-BR-Buffet-Car-1805-R-628/171623201647?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28111%26meid%3D40ef451019364911a74ec18ee7570c05%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D11472%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D171563181389 Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 £10.50 for that is exorbitant! It is a crude Mk 1 in a livery that it never carried except in preservation. Don't. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2015 Rick, For not much more you could pick up an Airfix b set coach for around a fiver and comet H33 etches for 10.50. This would give you a much better starting point for a conversion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Thanks, Taz. I was quoted £45-ish for the Comet kit. £10.50 makes the Comet sides affordable! Perhaps someone (more knowledgeable than me) could post a suggested 'resources pack', including what books, parts, etc., people should buy, on this topic? It'd be good if the H33 thread served as useful reference for modellers considering building an H33 in the future. I'd also suggest that such info is summarized, at the start of the thread, as I've done on the H39 & H36 thread, as a kind of detailed 'Introduction' and 'Contents' for future modellers. Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2015 For my H33 project, the costs have come in at £10 for a doner coach from ebay (Just make sure it has the gw 7ft bogies (unlike mine...) Sides £10.50 Roof vents £2.50 Grab handles and door handles were about 3£ a pack each (1 pack being enough to do a few coaches) Corridor connections £4 Then it's just the usual wire and plastic etc for the rest, of course if you can live with the Hornby vents or corridors, or halt to make the grabs and door handles from wire you can save even more 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Very Similar to Fatadder Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 And If you are modelling pre-war GWR days, the Hornby coach isn't that bad on its own. Redoing the roof fittings, changing the corridor connectors, and adding an extra battery box and the gas cylinders to the underframe can make it look quite good. I used a couple of gas cylinders left over from Ratio 4-wheel coach kits. Since they are longitudinal on the H33, you only need two instead of the prototype's three (you can't see the third cylinder). Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2015 Is the extra battery box only on the pre refurb version? I can't seem to see it on Comet'sunderframe drawing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2015 Sorry, just realised my recommendations for a donor coach is incorrect for a H33. As the H33 was 57' you would need a Hornby Railroad Collet coach. Get a later buffet version with 7' bogies and your work is reduced further. I've had a conversion of these Hornby Collets on the go for a while now and really should pull them out to finish them off: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/68260-tazs-rtr-wb-improving-Hornby-collets/ The b set is 60' and is a suitable donor for your H39/H40 conversion. Not sure off hand without referring to my books on the design of the H36 but if it is a 60' bow end design you could use it for that as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Is the extra battery box only on the pre refurb version? I can't seem to see it on Comet'sunderframe drawing That's a good question. I'll try and work out where I found that, or whether I'm just confused (a distinct possibility). Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Riley Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 The two battery boxes should be on the same side - Hornby has them on opposite sides. The thread inspired me to improve the Hornby model. Available from Hattons for 14 pounds new. 3.75 for SEF glazing on ebay. Ventilators etc from my stock. So came out quite cheaply. I wanted it in original condition so comet overlays not applicable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 A little further advanced. Joined body and inside to chassis now with added footsteps and corridor connectors, just need transfers and windows added. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2015 Very nice, Very glad I saw your thread, as mine has been an enjoyable project so far Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Wintle Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Looking at Russell's Appendix 2, both the photos of the H33 (fig 199, rebuilt, shirtbutton) and that of the very similar H25 (fig 175, rebuilt, BR) show three battery boxes. Two are in the conventional locations on the corridor side*, and the third, smaller one is on the kitchen side, closer to the centre of the coach at the third-class end. The dynamo is also under the third class end. On the H33**, the gas cylinders extend a little beyond the verticals of the underframe truss at each end and are smaller diameter than the Comet ones (which is why I used the Ratio 4-wheeler ones). The third battery box is just to the third class end of them, basically beneath, and the same width as, the panel between the double door and the first of the third class windows. The dynamo is beneath the panel between the first and second window on the same end. *yes, the Hornby battery boxes are on the wrong side, but they are approximately the right longitudinal position **the H25 is slightly different due to the shorter distance between the bogie centres. Adrian Edited January 7, 2015 by Adrian Wintle 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted January 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks for that, glad I found out before I started adding to the underframe detailing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Looking great, Alan, Could I ask what Corridor Connectors you're using? I'm looking for something decent to use on my coaches, and yours look really good. Thanks, Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Looking great, Alan, Could I ask what Corridor Connectors you're using? I'm looking for something decent to use on my coaches, and yours look really good. Thanks, Rick Hope they are "working" ones otherwise you won't get round corners , judging by how far they extend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 The definitely contract so hopefully no problems on bends. I can't remember where I got them> I think I bought them about 10 years ago at the Chatham show. I will try and find out as they are rather good and I would like some more. If I do I'll let you know. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 To add to my last post I think I bought the corridor connections from the Southern Railways Group stand as I said some 10years ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
70021 Morning Star Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hi Alan, Would that be the same as the Southern Railways model shop, in Birmingham? If so, they're only open Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. I can try calling on Thursday, but not sure this is the right place? Thanks, Rick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) You can make your own flexible corridor connections using card and black paper Concertina fold a strip of black paper to the correct width. Split into two sections. Cut a slit from the centre top in one section and a slit form bottom centre in the other. Interleave so you have a honey comb effect. Cut the ends to suit. (remember for the BR period the connection end was Pullman/Mark 1 shape as they were all fitted with gangway adaptors. Takes ten minutes. All my stock are fitted with this to represent connected gangways. Have a try. virtually no cost involved so no great loss if the first few attempts do not work out. Mike Wiltshire Edited January 7, 2015 by Coach bogie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 No Rick It isn't. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Cut the ends to suit. (remember for the BR period the connection end was Pullman/Mark 1 shape as they were all fitted with gangway adaptors) Are you sure about that? The purpose of the adaptor was to allow GW/LMS gangways to couple to the Pullman type fitted to Mk 1s. If coupled they would not need endplates [except on our models where they form the rubbing plate] and why would BR go to the expense of replacing all the old endplates? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Are you sure about that? The purpose of the adaptor was to allow GW/LMS gangways to couple to the Pullman type fitted to Mk 1s. If coupled they would not need endplates [except on our models where they form the rubbing plate] and why would BR go to the expense of replacing all the old endplates? Chris To be totally honest, no I am not. I do not have a 'definitive' view of a gangway adaptor. The one that makes sense has a mark one top section from about 2/3rds of the way up. There is a second set of locking clamps that protrude much further out than the standards GWR/LMS type. Mike Wiltshire Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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