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Dettingen GCR might have been layout


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The next project. Planning in progress for the inside. 

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I know rails makes one of 125 sheets but my hope is I can get this all done for half that hopefully. 
I have noticed that the small windows up top do not match the prototype so I might be getting in there and drilling out the ones I need and filling in the wrong ones. I need to check if they changed over time. 
headstock kindly let me know what bogies I needed and I have sourced them. 
let’s see how long this one takes. 
richard 

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14 hours ago, richard i said:

Glad to here people are well. Could his car just be a flat battery if he has not driven it for a while with the isolating he is doing. ( mechanical knowledge reached its limits. ) 

I am sure John could have told me, but then I asked him the outside colour of his signal box and he told me he did not know because he always looked at it from the inside. So maybe not. 
I will assume it has just arrived and is on trial. Otherwise I have a far more substantial paint job on my hands, and I would need to generate Barton transfers.  It was only ever supposed to be a quick project to let me feel like I was having some modeling momentum, that and I now have an era appropriate double decker bus I can put on my bridge. In fairness the only roads I have are on bridges. Just to irk those who get annoyed by it. .............you know who you are. 
Richard.

 

Fred had arrived home from collecting medication, his car died as he turned on to his drive. His repair garage reported it would be over £1000 to fix which on an eighteen year old car was uneconomic.

 

Given John's box location (Colwick) I imagine the box colour may have become 'weathered coal black' or similar. I believe I remember him saying it had been due for closure for many years, so it probably never got repainted.

 

Jim

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Out of (purely idle) interest, Richard, for how many years have you been “11 years into a 15 year build”?

When was the date of commencement, and do you increment your signature file?

(Or is this a reflective statement that you seem to always have another 4 years to go?)

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5 minutes ago, Regularity said:

Out of (purely idle) interest, Richard, for how many years have you been “11 years into a 15 year build”?

When was the date of commencement, and do you increment your signature file?

(Or is this a reflective statement that you seem to always have another 4 years to go?)

I mean to move it on every January. However forgot this year. I was only looking at it a couple of days ago thinking I should be more honest and change it to 12 years into a 10 year build. I always intended it to take ten years, but it is getting longer as I have taken more time to get done what I wanted. I am trying to build to a standard rather than the time limit. At 9 years I conceded that it would not be ten years so set the new target of 15 years. I might as well be honest now and say 20 is more realistic for the layout, locos and stock. 
richard 

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If the journey is as important as the destination, then how long the journey takes is immaterial.

 

I like your honesty here - and the fact that you are working to a standard rather than a time limit. To me, that’s a truly “finescale” attitude.

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The layout is largely complete, or as much as I can do until it can be extended to its full length. Something which was in the plans from the start. It is the mostly coaches which are taking the time. I have had a list since the start and am slowly working through it.  There is a set of 6 wheelers, a set of Parker stock, a set of robinson main line and a set of robinson suburban. That’s just for the gcr period. Then there are 2 lner period trains to complete. That dwarfs the 7-8 locos to build. There are only 20 or so wagons on the list, some kits, some scratch builds. 
so 20 years seems more realistic. 
richard 

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It shows how things have gradually changed within the hobby.

 

Richard here is talking of his layout build including locos and rolling stock, making it a 'whole project'.

Many years ago we would build and/or buy the stock to use on friends, club and/or our own layouts.

 


 

 

 

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This should be a post of triumph about how I have made more furniture. A chair, a table and a sideboard.

however........

 

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as you can see. Whilst I did paint up and stick down the seats, I then realized that my dyslexia had meant I had put them at the wrong end.  So I had to rip them up. Damaging the floor. So new furniture, painted up and cleaned up sofas on the left. Floor with green filler on the right. 
next time I hope to put in the seats at the correct end , there is no guarantee that I won’t mix it up again. I am hoping that the green splodges will help remind me of where they should go. 
Richard

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Then there was carpeting. I think a first for me. 
 

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furniture fitted so far. A cabinet and a table to go.  Then final detailing. 
I thought the outside was almost finished. However the more I dig the more I find to add. This was meant to be a quick project. 
I just can’t let detail go if I know it is there and I have the ability to model it. 
richard 

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The first measurement machine. 
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the print out of the rails version is oversized. Why if on the screen in word it measures the right length  and yet when it is printed it is about 10% too big? Hence the sums of the scaled pieces of furniture 

next the table. Under the lock down I am not sure whether I will have to make the large red (brake) wheel or if I can get one. 
richard 

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The next two pieces of furniture.

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Taken next to what I hoped to achieve, I would like to think I got close to mike trice’s excellent job. 
what’s left inside? The handbrake and the two silver instruments on the floor. 

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The inside is done.  Under pressure from the domestic management committee to clear space I pressed on to finish it. 
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it is not in the mike trice league, but it hopefully feels like it is a dynamometer car when you look in through the glazing. 
I have turned my attention to the outside details, but still have not totally convinced myself about the non ducket end. It looks like there is a split window in the toilet window, but not on the other side, it looks frosted for the toilet too. However the next window also looks white in some pictures. Was this so? 
richard 

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13 minutes ago, richard i said:

The inside is done.  Under pressure from the domestic management committee to clear space I pressed on to finish it. 

richard 

Hi Richard

 

How long were you able to keep your mess on the table before you were forced into losing at cards with the kids?

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Richard

 

How long were you able to keep your mess on the table before you were forced into losing at cards with the kids?

 

 

I have my own table. But I had also taken the desk to do proper work at. It seems I am only allowed one  flat surface at a time.  It was number one son who lost at cards. I don’t take part as it reduces the chances of outrage by 20%. 
richard 

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I thought the shell had most of of the main parts. However, careful study shows some important bits need adding. 
 

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you can tell where the parts are added. They are all in white. I need to do the ends, before heading on to the underframe. 
richard. 

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One end done. 
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I have started the other end too. Like the sides I found a fair bit to fit extra.

i know that the 3D print was done as “a basis to work from” cad. I do feel there is mileage to fit some of the end detail before printing. Especially with the progress printers have made in the last 5 years. 
I have been looking at the vacuum pipe down the side of the carriage. It measures up against scaled photos of the real thing, they come out at 0.5 wire. It does however look too puny to me. Does anyone know if if 0.7 / 0.9 would be more realistic? 
richard 
 

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Richard, 0.9 wire would be better, vac pipes are about 3" diameter. If you can get hold of 1mm 'twin & earth' copper cable as used in house lighting wiring, it will be better as it is easier to bend. 

 

Answer; do the door vents, less chance of damage than underframe detail. When building any models I try to work by starting with the most robust parts and working to the delicate bits last.

 

Jim 

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7 hours ago, jimwal said:

Richard, 0.9 wire would be better, vac pipes are about 3" diameter. If you can get hold of 1mm 'twin & earth' copper cable as used in house lighting wiring, it will be better as it is easier to bend. 

 

Answer; do the door vents, less chance of damage than underframe detail. When building any models I try to work by starting with the most robust parts and working to the delicate bits last.

 

Jim 

Thanks Jim,

it just looked too weedy. At least I now have a template to fold up from. I might do the nails in a piece of wood trick. Might also add the lumps and bumps on the pipe from tape this time. And there was me thinking I would be doing the bogies next. Perhaps my carriages are destined never to get bogies. That will make running a train more difficult. 
Richard. 

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Vacuum pipe altered. Little weedy one below. I hope to clean up the wire, straighten it and save it. Optimistic I know. 
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has damaged paintwork. I will attend to that when I give the body its full paint job. 
have ordered the transfers from fox for it. Pace is a quickening. 
richard . 
 

 

 

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