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Controlling my lights and points - DC or DCC!


topsy11

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Hello.

 

I've been running DCC (Lenz 100) for 2 weeks now and must say I'm very very pleased with how my loco's run compared to DCC.

 

I'm now wanting to add some point motors and light signals on part of my layout. 

 

I'd like the system to be fairly automated whereby I have a diagram of a certain section of track with some green/red LED's and a push button switch. Whichever route is selected will show on the control panel and also change the signals.

 

Would I be better sticking with DC to achieve this or is there something DCC available. I don't want to mess around with computer operated stuff at this stage.

 

I don't have a clue how I'm going to go about wiring up the above but hoping to work it out in the next few weeks!!

 

Thanks for any help.

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  • RMweb Gold

In answer to your question is there something DCC available the answer is yes.

 

You would need to buy accessory decoders to control your points and signals.  These are similar to the loco decoders but don't have a connection to the motor. Like loco decoders you have to give them an address but then there is a different set of commands and keys to press on your Lenz Set to activate the points or lights.  Some would argue that the sequence of key presses on the Lenz system is quite tedious and long winded when a simple switch or push button on a control panel would suffice. There can be a bit more wiring involved too.  Most of these decoders (or the point motors you connect them too) can also set LEDs on a control panel.

 

There are a range of decoders available but they can be quite expensive if you don't build your own.  Switch-It or Snap-it from NCE controls 2 points for £12-£15  A DCC Concepts decoder can fire 8 solenoids and has built in CDUs but costs £56.  The signalist decoder can control up to 4,  2 way light signals or 2,  4 way light signals for about £30.  Others, of course, are available.

 

Many of these decoders can be controlled by your handset and by a push button on your control panel.

 

Personally if you are not going to go down the computer control path I would control the trains with DCC and have a DC control panel for points and signals.  I have done both but have only gone down the DCC route when I was introducing computer control.

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  • RMweb Gold

Don't forget, push buttons were just my example.  There are many other ways of 'switching' from a control panel - lever switches or the 'stud and probe' method are just two more examples. Switching for signals also can be as simple or as complicated as you like.  I'm sure you will find this out for yourself as you go about working it out over the next few weeks.

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The more you expect to change or tweak the design of your layout, the more the DISadvantage of 'analogue' wiirng, with its unquie 1:1 connections (or really 2:2 or 3:3 connections).

With dcc via accessory decoders (especially those like the LS150 from LENZ which can have each output programmed to ANY number.. not necessarily in sequence) and with the increasing appearance of individual DCC-decoder-fitted devices such as integral point motors and perhaps working level crossings, but certaily colour light signals.... the ADVANTAGES of STARTING OUT with DCC control of accessories is clear.

With the Roco Multimaus Expressnet handsets I use, I have complete freedom pf movement whilst controlling all locos and accessories.

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It really depends on how complex your signalling is as to what will be the easiest method to implement controlling it. Two aspect colour lights or their semaphore equivalent are likely to be just about manageable on manual control, but anything more complex (3/4 aspect, feathers, slotted distants) is going to need some quite extensive analogue wiring and planning and is likely to involve relays and multipole switches and therefore going DCC will probably make life easier.

 

Since you have gone down the Lenz route it is quite easy to add a Roco RouteControl (obsolete now because people tend to use computers to do this, but you might be able to get one secondhand). With up to 32 routes available It will probably be possible to set up routes in the RouteControl to set the points and signals at the same time for all possible routes, and have a reserved route to clear all the signals back down again afterwards.

 

Don't forget that when you go DCC there is no longer any need for a control panel so you might actually save some money - control panels are not cheap to build!

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Have a look at the Peco Smart Switch system.

Slightly expensive, but it will provide both DCC control and analogue panel control (switches and LED's) of points and signals.

No computers involved and it will work with any DCC system, or with a DC controlled layout.

 

 

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HI. Topsy2.  If like me you want to keep things simple, this is how I control Points & signals.

After much experiment I decided to use Traintronics TT300 point motors, together with Train- Tech signals.

With the TT300 there is no need for a resistor, and are programed the same way as you would a Loco.

Or, and I have done this also, by using DPDT switches made up a panel, powered by a 9-12 volt transformer, think it was from a mobile phone.

Most DCC Point motors have the facility to operate DC. My panel operates 16 points, not all at once though. saves lots of button pushes.

Signals. I have two types. Two are 3 aspect controlled by Heathcote electronics PCBs infra red detected.

All the others are Train-Tech. These must be the most simple signals to install and program using there one touch system. (decoder built in)

No complex wiring, No decoder to program, Infact no wiring at all. unless, ( See below)

For example. To change point 11. switch 11 is operated, the point changes and so does the signal. Operated from my panel.

Also with the TT300 apart from operating the point, using the connections available wire a Berko type signal, only did this once as then discovered Train- Tech

You see I don't entirely agree with Suzie,as I said Train-Tech are so simple to install. If you don't like the Hornby type prongs, then do what I do cut them off solder two 7 strand wires to the DCC power bus. Suzie also says you would need complex wiring for 3/4 aspect/ Feathers. Not to sure about that, I think they would work with the connections available on the TT300, I will know in a few weeks time when I have tried it.

That's My Tuppence worth. Good Luck.

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Thanks for the replies. That peco system looks quite convienient, especially for someone like me who's ok with soldering but gets a little lost when trying to design any sort of circuit from scratch that'll have to do a number of different things.

 

I've now got some CR signals to play with and a 12V power supply so I'm going to build a small 'mock up' of the piece of track I want to control for now and have a go at wiring it all together with some point motors. I think for £65 though that Peco PLS will be a no-brainer using DC.

 

Thanks again.

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Hello.

Would a on / off / on switch allow me to control 3 & 4 aspect signals?

Thanks Mark

Its not really that practical, but you could use two such switches per signal and by turning one to the off (or on for 1st yellow when 2nd yellow is to be displayed) and setting the other to one of the two ons to give three or four aspect control, but it seems a hard way of doing it. This would be for example red and 1st yellow on one switch, green and 2nd top yellow on the other.

You ideally need for single switch operation either an On-On-On switch for a three aspect or use a rotary switch 4P3W or 3P4W depending on number of aspects. Or you can use DPDT On-On switches with three aspect signalling but it does involve some inter switch wiring.

Some wiring examples are shown on my web site if it's any help.... http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical%20page%202.html#Signalling

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