jaym481 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I just received a few Pullman coaches off Ebay, and one of them has only half of the lamps light up. From what I could find searching here and there the lights are lit by a couple of LEDs that feed a fibre-optic line to the table lamps. Are there two LEDs in each coach, and if so, are the pickups in the wheels for the whole lighting system, or divided front and rear? If they are divided, that will narrow down the trouble-shooting. Next, I've been unable to find any practical advice on disassembly. I think the wheel sets just pop off, but before I go levering them with a screwdriver I'd like to confirm that. In the event the problem is deeper than the wheel pickups and wiring, are there any tips for further disassembly of the coach? Finally, by trying to make this work am I setting myself up for disappointment? Would it be better to return it for refund? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Abel Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I just received a few Pullman coaches off Ebay, and one of them has only half of the lamps light up. From what I could find searching here and there the lights are lit by a couple of LEDs that feed a fibre-optic line to the table lamps. Are there two LEDs in each coach, and if so, are the pickups in the wheels for the whole lighting system, or divided front and rear? If they are divided, that will narrow down the trouble-shooting. Next, I've been unable to find any practical advice on disassembly. I think the wheel sets just pop off, but before I go levering them with a screwdriver I'd like to confirm that. In the event the problem is deeper than the wheel pickups and wiring, are there any tips for further disassembly of the coach? Finally, by trying to make this work am I setting myself up for disappointment? Would it be better to return it for refund? I can help re pickup and disassembly; 1) Pickup is for the entire system. One bogie is one side of the supply, other bogie other side. 2) Disassembly. The bogies "pop off" gently pry off holding the coach in one hand and the bogie in the other. WARNING: The pickup wire is fairly long BUT, is soldered i.e. no disconnect of any sort. The coach body is held by 6 clips, you can just about see the end pairs from underneath, gently press them in one at a time with a screwdriver end to separate the chassis from the coach body. The ones in mid-coach then seem to be easy to separate with a fingernail or screwdriver end. Not sure which versions you have, earlier ones have a non-NEM pocket close-coupler arrangement, later ones are equipped with NEM close-couplers, I have both. It used to be that Hornby offered a free replacement for the earlier ones as there were running problems with rakes of 5 or more apparently, that is no longer available, but see below for the current option. Some folks think you need to replace the entire bogie to get the NEM coupler pockets, untrue, all you need is to replace the cam plate assembly. I am converting my non-NEM ones to NEM so I can couple them using Kadee #20 NEM couplers. The replacement NEM-fitted close coupling cam mechanisms are available from ACModels Spares http://www.acmodelsspares.co.uk/product/x9098m/ part "X9098M Hornby Spare Cam Plate Set for Pullman Coaches" at 2 quid a pair. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Jaym481 - I can add to that. As the above gentleman from the USA correctly states, pick up is from the 2 outer wheel sets of each bogie - one bogie picks up from one rail, the other bogie picks up from the other rail (so make sure you replace the wheels the right way round). On one bogie the insulated wheels must therefore all be on one side, on the other bogie they must all be on the other side. The insulated side can be found by identifying a little black bush on the back of the wheel where it fits onto the axle. However that is just a tip for when you replace the wheel sets - it will not account for the problem you mention. If any of the wheels are in the wrong way round the lights will not work at all. However - the lights are divided into two groups within the coach - those at one end are separate from those at the other. Specifically how many are on each circuit depends on precisely which type of Pullman coach you have (they vary). Each of the two groups have their own LED - there is one LED at each end of the coach feeding up to 6 table lamps at the same end. Each LED is mounted on its own small circuit board together with it's own capacitor, etc. So the likelihood is that you have either a failed LED or (more likely) a complete failed circuit board at one end of your coach ...obviously at the end at which the lights don't work. If you are happy to make fine electrical wire connections (which really need soldering) then it is perfectly easy to replace the faulty circuit board. It's held to the moulding by just 2 screws. If you want to risk leaving your postal address here (or can find any way of contacting me off-board - do we have personal messaging facilities on here?), then I have several spare circuit boards and will happily send you a couple complete with LEDS, free of charge. Alternatively if you are on Facebook you can PM me via Facebook ( www.facebook.com/don.mason.370 ) - Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Ian - Surprised to hear you are thinking of using Kadee #20's on your Pullmans. Depends on your tightest radius curve of course but anything 30" and over and you can get away with Kadee #18's in the NEM pockets with no problems at all. In fact if you are prepared to forego sprung buffers (what's the point of those in 'OO' anyway?) and are prepared to pinch the buffers up a millimetre or so before gluing them solid, then you can use a Kadee #18 at one end of the car and an even smaller Kadee #17 at the other. That gives a really nice close coupling and is what I do.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles73128 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I can help re pickup and disassembly; 1) Pickup is for the entire system. One bogie is one side of the supply, other bogie other side. 2) Disassembly. The bogies "pop off" gently pry off holding the coach in one hand and the bogie in the other. WARNING: The pickup wire is fairly long BUT, is soldered i.e. no disconnect of any sort. The coach body is held by 6 clips, you can just about see the end pairs from underneath, gently press them in one at a time with a screwdriver end to separate the chassis from the coach body. The ones in mid-coach then seem to be easy to separate with a fingernail or screwdriver end. Not sure which versions you have, earlier ones have a non-NEM pocket close-coupler arrangement, later ones are equipped with NEM close-couplers, I have both. It used to be that Hornby offered a free replacement for the earlier ones as there were running problems with rakes of 5 or more apparently, that is no longer available, but see below for the current option. Some folks think you need to replace the entire bogie to get the NEM coupler pockets, untrue, all you need is to replace the cam plate assembly. I am converting my non-NEM ones to NEM so I can couple them using Kadee #20 NEM couplers. The replacement NEM-fitted close coupling cam mechanisms are available from ACModels Spares http://www.acmodelsspares.co.uk/product/x9098m/ part "X9098M Hornby Spare Cam Plate Set for Pullman Coaches" at 2 quid a pair. Thanks for the info, very useful. How do you replace the arms without braking the wires to the bogie? As the lighting wires go through the centre of the coupling arm? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium phil-b259 Posted January 29, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thanks for the info, very useful. How do you replace the arms without braking the wires to the bogie? As the lighting wires go through the centre of the coupling arm? I simply cut the wire removed the old coupling arm, put the wire through the new one then twisted the two stripped ends of the wire together, secured with a bit of solder and warped in a small piece of insulation tape. From what I remember there was quite a lot of slack on the wire which made the process easier and allows the cut to be made without it being too close to the bogie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 That's all exactly correct - except I personally use heat-shrink tubing rather than insulating tape. Much stronger and longer lasting. But either method will work fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Abel Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Ian - Surprised to hear you are thinking of using Kadee #20's on your Pullmans. Depends on your tightest radius curve of course but anything 30" and over and you can get away with Kadee #18's in the NEM pockets with no problems at all. In fact if you are prepared to forego sprung buffers (what's the point of those in 'OO' anyway?) and are prepared to pinch the buffers up a millimetre or so before gluing them solid, then you can use a Kadee #18 at one end of the car and an even smaller Kadee #17 at the other. That gives a really nice close coupling and is what I do.... Hmm, thanks for that - I'll have to "review" it. I have not switched all mine over yet, since I was waiting for the new cams, and haven't got around to installing them yet. A quick test seemed to suggest that #20 would work best especially when shunting a rake, I was worried I might get some buffer lock with a closer coupler. Most of my curves that would be negotiated with the rake being shunted are around 30" but might be a little under (as tight as 27.5-28) in the station throat and I was concerned - looks like some experimenting is needed... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 ... I was worried I might get some buffer lock with a closer coupler... Retract the buffers. I use hot water to soften rings of appropriate diameter wire insulation, which are pushed onto the rear of the buffer shanks to hold the heads retracted. Hornby have put a taper on the shank to make this job extra easy. The effect from getting them really close coupled is worth the small extra trouble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Ian - If your curves go down to that, try an 18 on one end and a 19 on the other. The problem with retracting the buffers fully is that it doesn't look quite as good. My way allows touching buffers when backing up and very nearly touching when hauling (the little bit of springiness in the Kadees is sufficient, together with the swing of the cams when going around curves). And you won't get buffer locking, especially if your Pullmans are the matchboard 4-wheeled type with the wider buffers (although actually mine are all the smaller 'oval' type on 12-wheeled cars and I don't get any buffer-locking at all when backing, even on some reverse curves of 2 Peco 'medium' radius turnouts back-to-back). Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaym481 Posted January 29, 2015 Author Share Posted January 29, 2015 Thanks for all of the input. While I'm not completely lacking in skill, I do have hand an eyesight issues that make replacement of a circuit board risky. As a result, I will return it. The added input about couplers is interesting as well. The coach in question also had issues of derailing and causing others to derail on corners. The set have NEM pockets, so I will look into Kaydee couplers as a solution. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurenceb Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Are not buffers on buckeyefitted coaches supposed to be retracted anyway. The best way of coupling cam fitted coaches is the Roco type bar so that the cam workes correctly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Is there a problem running similarly opposed pick-up lit stock together? I've had 2 of these Pullmans stood together on a DC test track today, lit for about 3 minutes and that burning circuit smell came from both coaches. One of the coaches had the wheels fitted the other way round (The insulated wheels were on the opposite sides of each bogie to the other coach). That's really hard to explain.......both coaches lit but the wheels in one coach opposite to the other coach. I just wondered if there's a set way with pick-ups, polarity and coach circuit boards. Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.