david.hill64 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Once the Deeley 0F is completed I shall be starting on my next 7mm project: a Connoisseur models J36. This is going to be one of the last survivors, 65243 Maude, happily preserved.Back in 1965/6 I bought my first Ian Allan Combined Volume spotters book. I remember two things from this. Firstly my father's outrage that I had spent 12/6 of my hard earned paper round money on a book, and secondly that this book had lots of wonderful pictures of exotic engines that I probably would never get to underline in the book. One of these had the name 'Maude' which sounded rather quaint, like an old maiden aunt. It wasn't until much later that I learned the provenance of the name. So 50 years later my third 0 gauge build will be of this charismatic engine, robust and simple. At first glance the kit will go together well, but if anyone has experience of building one of these I would be very happy to hear your views about dos and don'ts, suggestions etc. This, with accessories is what came in the box: The boiler and cab roof are nicely pre-rolled. As usual I will start on the tender. If the flare forms easily It should be plain sailing (famous last words), Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
asa Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi David, The J36 was my very first attempt at building a kit in O gauge which probably wasn't the best way to go about things. The fact that I managed put it all together without any real problems says it all about Jims kits. I don't think you will have any trouble building this.If I can do it I reckon anyone can. Enjoy Alistair. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JhornG201 Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Maude is one of my favourite locos and when I have time I help out on the Bo'ness and Kinneil Railway where preparations are underway for her next overhaul. I can't wait to see how you get on with this kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Hi David The J36 kit started off as one of George Dawson's Majestic range. The main change since being taken over by Connoisseur is that some of the castings are whitemetal rather than brass. If you wish to replace them have a look at the parts available from 62C Models here: http://www.62cmodels.com I have some photographs of Maude taken in the museum at Bo'ness in 2010. If you wish copies, PM me with your email address. A reduced size example is below. Just in case you are not aware, Ian Kirk posted a very useful drawing in this RMweb topic: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94652-j36-drawing Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Another of your builds I'll be following with interest. I saw 65243 on the turntable at St Margarets from the window of one of the coaches of the "Scunthorpe Forum Flyer", hauled by 4472 herself. I also built a GEM model of it in 4mm scale, with a scratch built chassis to P4 standards, it featured in Railway Modeller many years ago now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Just in case you are not aware, Ian Kirk posted a very useful drawing in this RMweb topic: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/94652-j36-drawing Thanks: I did a quick search to see what was on the site before I started the post and missed this thread completely! Very useful, much appreciated. I have sent a PM. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I've also found the 4mm Skinley drawing I used recently. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 14, 2015 Author Share Posted February 14, 2015 So with the 0F all but finished I have made a start on the tender. Here are the basic frames with my essential companion, Mr Square. Then I added the remaining frame spacers and soldered in place the axle bearings for the leading an trailing axle. The wheels have been blackened to try and keep the rust monkey hungry. Next job the brakes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Work has progressed without any real issues, so I'll just post a series of photos. Please note that I have just soldered the coal rails into position and haven't started teh solder clean up yet, so it looks a bit rough. I was a bit concerned about forming the flares, but it turned out that they were not as scary as those I wore in the 70's.............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hi David I hope you do not mind me asking - what is the arrangement of the centre axle on the tender? I notice that there are no bearings in an earlier picture. Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hi David I hope you do not mind me asking - what is the arrangement of the centre axle on the tender? I notice that there are no bearings in an earlier picture. Regards. Bill, The frames have a slot for the centre bearings so they can float up and down. I am not a fan of this arrangement as i think you just wear out the frames, which are quite thin. I may yet modify and am open to suggestions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Looking forward to starting my one, though got a second J68 on the go at the minute.. Do I recall in the kit that there was a revised tender footplate etch, as the original was incorrect? JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 The frames have a slot for the centre bearings so they can float up and down. I am not a fan of this arrangement as i think you just wear out the frames, which are quite thin. I may yet modify and am open to suggestions.I see no issue with this arrangement (as opposed to axles floating in the frames). Most of the wear will occur inside the bearing and the movement of bearing inside the frame is really minimal to non-existent. Is your track really that uneven! If the frames really are THAT thin then simply thicken the adjacent sided of the frame where you expect wear to take place. Just like the argument on springing I think this is just a waste of effort. I would probably just fix all the bearings and do a proper job of checking all 6 wheels are in contact with the glass plate. I am surprised that you find the brass in this kit "thin" most of my experience with Jim's kits have led me to believe that the brass is on the thick side - perhaps he is cutting back. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Looking forward to starting my one, though got a second J68 on the go at the minute.. Do I recall in the kit that there was a revised tender footplate etch, as the original was incorrect? JB. Have you got a thread on your new J68 build? Currently planning to continue mine, but will be a late 50s BR loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 I see no issue with this arrangement (as opposed to axles floating in the frames). Most of the wear will occur inside the bearing and the movement of bearing inside the frame is really minimal to non-existent. Is your track really that uneven! If the frames really are THAT thin then simply thicken the adjacent sided of the frame where you expect wear to take place. Just like the argument on springing I think this is just a waste of effort. I would probably just fix all the bearings and do a proper job of checking all 6 wheels are in contact with the glass plate. I am surprised that you find the brass in this kit "thin" most of my experience with Jim's kits have led me to believe that the brass is on the thick side - perhaps he is cutting back. I am more worried about the bearings rotating in the frames: there is nothing to stop them doing that. I think it was on Sandy Harper's thread that I saw a nice idea for springing the centre axle, but with the frame strengtheners where they are I cannot follow this approach. The frames are 0.4mm/15 thou brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share Posted February 16, 2015 Looking forward to starting my one, though got a second J68 on the go at the minute.. Do I recall in the kit that there was a revised tender footplate etch, as the original was incorrect? JB. Sorry not sure: had no problems with the one supplied though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Have you got a thread on your new J68 build? Currently planning to continue mine, but will be a late 50s BR loco. I have a thread on a different forum, but don't really have time at the minute to update two threads.. So pop in here for a chat mostly... JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 No problems as construction continues. I have to decide whether or not to fit the small toolboxes on the front plate. Does anybody know when they were removed? They are not fitted to Maude in her current state. I am waiting for the replacement buffers, brake standard and fire iron brackets. I am also going to spring the centre axle outside of the inner frames and add detail to the front plate: it's a bit sparse. Still need to get the solder cleaned up and get some primer on as the brass is starting to pit already, despite having a good clean after each work session. Time for a wee dram cup of cocoa before bed. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Shaw Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 No problems as construction continues. I have to decide whether or not to fit the small toolboxes on the front plate. Does anybody know when they were removed? They are not fitted to Maude in her current state. I am waiting for the replacement buffers, brake standard and fire iron brackets. I am also going to spring the centre axle outside of the inner frames and add detail to the front plate: it's a bit sparse. Still need to get the solder cleaned up and get some primer on as the brass is starting to pit already, despite having a good clean after each work session. 001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG Time for a wee dram cup of cocoa before bed. David Hi David It's looking good thus far. I built one of these a while ago, from George's kit rather than Jim's, but I doubt there's much difference, and I was pleased with the way it turned out. I moved house 2 years ago so everythings packed away in the attic but I'll dig it out and put a pic up. I am a driver at Boness and in fact passed my driving test on Maude so I have more than a fond spot for her. You need to be aware that the tender has been significantly modified in preservation times, the coal well was reduced to increase the water capacity and also the front tool boxes removed. Also she never had a vacuum brake until SRPS ownership. Regards Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 I have a thread on a different forum, but don't really have time at the minute to update two threads.. So pop in here for a chat mostly... JB. I know which thread and forum you mean, I was a member there too, but left. Looked for it but couldn't find it. Apologies for the hijack David. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 The detailing parts that I ordered form 62C arrived yesterday. These include the fire iron support brackets and some nice sprung buffers. The frames contain a nice cut out for the buffers, but ended up looking a bit unfinished, so I cut out some brass tube to make a cover. Hopefully it will look OK under the black paint: better than the 12BA nut anyway I hope! Tender construction is complete apart from cleaning up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 I am more worried about the bearings rotating in the frames: there is nothing to stop them doing that. I think it was on Sandy Harper's thread that I saw a nice idea for springing the centre axle, but with the frame strengtheners where they are I cannot follow this approach. The frames are 0.4mm/15 thou brass. Jazz of this parish uses a wire to spring his centre axles and to stop the bearing rotating. I prefer to file a flat on each side and solder a piece of angle up each side as a hornguide, with minimal side play, to hold all in place. I then give the rear axle side play if needed for curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Jazz of this parish uses a wire to spring his centre axles and to stop the bearing rotating. I prefer to file a flat on each side and solder a piece of angle up each side as a hornguide, with minimal side play, to hold all in place. I then give the rear axle side play if needed for curves. Yes I am going to have to do something similar as the bushes are rotating in the frames, rather than the axle rotating in the bushes. I will probably use Jazz's arrangement, but it will have to be located outside the frames as the frame spacers will get in the way of the wire. I am also toying with the idea of using some 4mm handrail knobs and making a CSB arrangement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Hi David The design of the tender chassis is not conducive to fitting the wire spring that Jazz and I both use but It can be done. Using a new, large, slitting disc carefully cut the vertical spacer down next to the chassis frame (looking from underneath) to about the depth of the oval bearing hole. A spring wire can then be fed through the slot on the inside of the chassis to fit into the small hole drilled in the bearing. I have used this dodge on a couple of tenders when I have refurbished them and the vertical spacer was obstructing the route of the spring. Cutting the spacer, for about half its depth, will not have any significant effect on the rigidity of the chassis. After all it will be bolted to a rigid tender!! Looking good. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Hi David The design of the tender chassis is not conducive to fitting the wire spring that Jazz and I both use but It can be done. Using a new, large, slitting disc carefully cut the vertical spacer down next to the chassis frame (looking from underneath) to about the depth of the oval bearing hole. A spring wire can then be fed through the slot on the inside of the chassis to fit into the small hole drilled in the bearing. I have used this dodge on a couple of tenders when I have refurbished them and the vertical spacer was obstructing the route of the spring. Cutting the spacer, for about half its depth, will not have any significant effect on the rigidity of the chassis. After all it will be bolted to a rigid tender!! Looking good. Sandy Thanks Sandy. I am definitely going to have to do something, and this is a good idea. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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