Brandycat Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 First of all, Hi to everyone! I am returning to modelling after at least 30 years, a mate is currently starting a loft layout, and it's got me interested again, he is retired, and I'm coming up to retirement, and I thought it would be great to get into model railways again He has chosen N gauge, and I intend to contribute with various card models. I am really impressed with the Scalescenes range, and so I started with one of the free downloads (the warehouse) I added two figures and some pallets, I tried to paint the dirty overalls on the guys just stepped out for a cuppa and a fag! although in them days you could smoke inside! So to my observations! firstly it's difficult! especially in N gauge, after seeing many models you guys have done on these boards, I feel that I have a lot to learn! I'm gradually learning the best ways and what's needed to try and do a realistic job, but it's fiddly! I did the garage next, which I loved doing, but I think my weathering techniques need honing. I have just completed the Church, and it is a first for me to print on Transparency film, I hadn't been aware of this, so that's a great improvement to realism. I got the right stuff from Ebay, along with various card thicknesses and scalpel blades (yes, they wear out quick, so I dress them up to make them last with an oil stone. You certainly need a new blade for the windows on the church, I didn't think I could finish the task, it took me hours and many attempts (I made a couple of die stamps at work to stamp or press some of the tight curves out, which made life easier) I've not mastered the bit where you mark the edges with felt tip pens, I can see that it would hide the white edge, but every time I do it, no matter how careful, it always bleeds to the printed edge, maybe charcoal sticks next time? The tiles on the roof, that was another one I thought was hard to do, my hat's off to all who find this one easy! I ended up printing them out on A4 size labels, rather that use a Pritt stick, it made it easier for me. My next job is the row of terraced houses, I've printed it all out, except the instructions this time, as I'll just open this document on the laptop, and view from there, as my cutting mat and work area is just in front of the screen. For the transparency sheet this time I converted the PDF file to Jpeg and opened in photoshop and where the frames are in black, I 'filled' them in with random colours, I didn't know if it would print out on the OHP sheet, but I think it's turned out ok, I don't know about bigger scales, but it might look ok in N gauge. Finally I have to say that these Scalescene kits are just fabulous, I haven't seen any to beat them for realism.. anyway, I'll stop rambling now, and here's some pictures on what I've done so far cheers, Dave ps. the warehouse I made a different sign on the front tp Harbot Engineering, it being where I started when I left school, and it was just like this, in a grimy backstreet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westcountryman Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 What a lovely group of models. With your weathering, you've captured the look perfectly. Finally, welcome back to the fold after your 30 year break! Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks Rob! I should have masked those windows and shop door on the garage before I sprayed the matt varnish! and isn't that expensive stuff? has anybody used cheap hair spray? just a thought! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Hi, Rob, Welcome, I admire your work in N gauge, I've tried it and can't do it! Bleeding felt tips? That's a new one on me, they must be pretty wet...or are you applying them whilst the glue-stick is still damp? I use water-colour pencils, both dry (and wetted) without a problem, you can also use them dry to colour the white windows acetates in Metcalfe (etc) models. Best wishes, Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Ps Try Lidl W5 waterproofer to save on that thicker rip-off stuff, it's sold for waterproofing sueude shoes and anoraks, so it's perfect for us! D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks Doug, I think water colour pencils is the answer, I guess the felt tip pen ink is being soaked up by the paper, I was just going on the recommended procedure in the kit instructions. Also thanks for the heads up regarding the suede shoe sealant, I'll check that out, cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Steve14 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Hi and welcome. You are certainly brave starting with the little scale models, but good on you for giving it a try. The real advantage with the downloadable type kits is the fact that you can keep making them until you get a good one that meets your requirements, and at no extra costs. Card modelling is not easy, and there are many skills that you need to learn. The trouble being you learn them by trial and error. You do need to be patient and wait for glue to dry before moving on to the next stage. Rather than spray the models after making them, I tried to spray once they were printed. It did seem to work. It also had the advantage that if glue got onto the printed surface, you could just wipe it off without it damaging the print. Just remember that many inkjet printers use water based inks ,which means water should not really be added or it will just smudge and run. There are many good hints and tips to be found in this forum, but you do have to look. Its a shame there is not a separate area for things like that. God luck with your modelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Nice group of models you have there. N gauge? No way for me. How do you put the printout on your card? I print mine on A4 label stock and roll them onto the card. I also use a self adhesive clear acetate for the windows. Sometimes have to devise a slightly different way of fitting them otherwise the sticky side is on the outside. That's not good.Keep up the good work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thank you for your comments Steve! yes, I do too spray the printed surfaces first, as directed in the scalescenes instructions, and because these are going in a loft, I thought it might be prudent to spray the completed kit too as the last thing I want is warping or de-lamination after all the hard work I have also found that by searching old threads on here, I have picked up loads of good ideas and advice. As mentioned above, I'm contributing to my mate's railway he's starting, I tried to get him to pick 4mm scale, but he insisted that it is to be N gauge!, but I'm finding it fun, and I like a challenge, I got to admire these scratch builders on these boards, that's proper modeling, and definitely at a different level. When I modeled all those years ago, and even when I was a lad, it was Airfix kits in 00 gauge, I think I built all the lineside series, big globs of that stringy glue everywhere! (liquid poly would have been better had I known about it) I just used to glue them together and paint them afterwards, I spent more time on scenery too than having the trains going round. I did a few card kits in the 70's and I remember they were 'Superquick' kits (are they still around?) I never did learn the knack with those, and found that in a damp bedroom, (no central heating in them days!) they all warped, or came apart, hence the maybe over doing of the matt varnish now! once again thanks all for your helpful comments cheers, Dave ps. I'm mounting the church on a board, and including a churchyard and graves and whatnot, I've made a couple of graves out of 1mm card, I tried to make a celtic cross type, but the card kept coming apart when I tried to cut the holes, so I've ordered some plasticard, I'll have a go with that, anyway, if you're interested here's the two graves, I just painted them after spray varnish with some old humbrol enamels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 http://www.amazon.com/Hole-Punch-Pliers-Leatherworking-Strap/dp/B000RB5YDA This is the gadget for small holes in card, wouldn't be without one. If you can afford it buy a good quality one. The little card cut-outs make manhole covers, alarm bells, porters trolley wheels, plates for your dining-car tables, pipe joint etc etc. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks Doug, that has given me some ideas, I do in fact have one of those at work, I forgot about those things; think I'll bring it home where it will have more use, thanks! the holes I require in say, that Celtic cross I would like to produce, is less than a millimeter, and I know that that hole punch I have does not go that small. Whilst I'm still in the engineering, and hanging about waiting for retirement, (only joking!) I'll set to and make one, also I'm intrigued to see how that plasticard I ordered performs, and might switch to that for some applications. Just as an aside, I tried unsuccessfully to get hold of that Lidl waterproofing spray you recommended Doug, and so risked trying some similar cheap stuff from Ebay, called 'SHUU shoe and boot waterproofer' spray 200ml and about £2.50 with free post, I sprayed it on some printed paper this afternoon, (definitely has to be sprayed with the windows open, a really strong smell of pear drops) but the results are really good, It dried quickly to a matt finish and when tested, water just ran off in globules, so I'll definitely get some more of that stuff, and is cheaper when buying a bigger can.. Incidentally, I have now received the lytch gate and pall bearers today from langley models, along with some foam scatter, static grass and some dry stone walling, oh yes and some trees for my churchyard scene! (I've never used these methods before, so I might be picking all your brains again) I'm loving this, it's like being a kid again! cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglian Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 I'm very impressed. In the past when I've built Superquick models for OO I would paint in all the raw edges of the card using a fine brush and watercolour paints that I could mix to match. The paint didn't bleed, as you might expect, but soaked into the card pretty much straight away. It might be worth a try although any water based paint that thins well will do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks Anglian, I think watercolour paints would be fine, as would coloured pencils, I do believe that with the problem I had with the marker pens is that the paper acted like a wick, no matter how careful I was with the application, it just soaked like blotting paper. @ Catweasel - thanks, I print on satin photo paper 120gsm (I have loads of this as I bulk order for my other hobby) On the roof tiles, like you, I print on A4 label stock. The windows, I follow advice from the scalescene instructions, and print on OHP transparency film. there seems to be an etched side where you print on with inkjet, and I don't think it is at all sticky. but believe me, I would rather be modeling in 00 gauge, that would be a dream, but I'm now getting used to N gauge, I've tried the big magnifying and lit lenses, but I can't get on with them, I just have my glasses and good strong light. I really am amazed at the accuracy of N gauge products compared to years ago, the locos and track are certainly not toy like as I remember them to be. cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rowsley17D Posted February 13, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2015 Hi Dave, for my two penny-worth, I use pastel pencils on card edges and they can also be used for weathering. The black and umber get a lot of use. Pastel is a lot softer than ordinary crayons and so the colour "takes" to the card or paper much better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Thanks Jonathan, I have a very small selection of the chalk pastels, which I use, but I will definitely give those pencils a try cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
altone Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I've not mastered the bit where you mark the edges with felt tip pens, I can see that it would hide the white edge, but every time I do it, no matter how careful, it always bleeds to the printed edge, maybe charcoal sticks next time? I use the kids coloured pencils to try and blend the edges because I had issues with the felt tips too. No expert here. fiddling with a little N guage layout but mainly OO Gerry C Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 I can only imagine you are using larger spirit based permenant markers, these I know can penetrate a floorboard! Cheapo kiddies felt tips do the job, but fade over a relatively short time. I use just 3 or 4 good quality watercolour crayons, either dry or run over with a moist watercolour paintbrush without problems. Go to an arty shop and buy a reddish-ish brown for brick, a grey for anywhere, a black for roof slate edges and a beige colour for stone corners. As I have already said thet can be used dry, rubbed lightly sideways on white window print outs, to colour them. (Metcalfe etc.) The excess can be removed from clear areas with a damp cotton bud. HTH Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Cheers Doug, I think I have it sussed now, with these small n gauge card models, I am now using a soft black pencil for all edges, as it's difficult to see the edges anyway, most of the thickness of card is 200gsm, so black is good so as remove the white of the card. I guess with say 4mm, I would have to re-think. and adopt different colour pencils whilst I'm here, I have bought some plasticard or styrene sheet in 200 gsm and 1mm thickness, and I wondered what glue would be suitable for sticking the printed sheets to. I have glue sticks, will that be ok? or do I need special adhesive thanks! cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Sorry, I can't help there, being someone who has never bought a single sheet of plasticard. Years ago I stuck a plastic curtain rail to the top of a large mirror [don't ask...] and used Evostik, but I don't think that would do the plastic sheet any good....I can only suggest printing on A4 label stock as it comes ready to stick, but with the grip of Jock McSplotty on a 'Fi'e poond note..' so little chance of re-alignment. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Don't think your normal glue sticks will work very well, you can get one called Power Pritt which is supposed to stick to some plastics, Doug's suggestion of the labels is your best bet but having tried labels in the past on cardboard personally I would stick to card and paper as getting thing aligned with sticky labels is a pain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks guys! hmm...the jury's out regarding this plasticard, I've just tried cutting some 1mm thick, and am finding it quite difficult, (with a scalpel anyway), the end of my finger has just healed up, so don't want to risk another slip with the blade, ouch! so yes Campaman, I can see me sticking (ha) to card cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 The trick with cutting thick plasticard is, don't. Using a sharp blade, lightly score along the line. Tis will act as guide for the blade. Then keep scoring until about half way through. Then snap it. A quick rub over with sandpaper to square it and you're done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 ... Then keep scoring until about half way through. Then snap it. A quick rub over with sandpaper to square it and you're done. Right! But this method not applicable to arcs! Restricts you to rectangled wall openings… Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted February 27, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 27, 2015 Right! But this method not applicable to arcs! Restricts you to rectangled wall openings… Armin Hi Armin Not so, I have been cutting out all sorts of shapes from plastic card. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParkeNd Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I have found the best way to cut Plastikard thick enough for buildings that don't warp is DONT. thin and pliable genuine Slaters .020" Plastikard laminated onto Daler board is a much more satisfactory medium. Both cut easily with a scalpel and etched windows can be sandwiched between the layers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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