Brandycat Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Interesting and helpful replies thanks guys! I put a search for plasticard in the search box, and there is a thread on these boards I've found useful too cheers, Dave ps. yes, ParkeNd; I will stick to the thinner card for these n gauge buildings, and sandwiching the windows sound a good idea Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 Just an update to that church yard scene I am making to add to the intended layout we are doing in my mate's loft, well it's about finished, here is a couple of pics. the back scene has close up of church (hope this is the right part of the forum to post these) cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catweasel Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 There is a way to use thin card without warping. Use triple layers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted March 1, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 1, 2015 Over the years I have found with plastic card, no matter if I laminate it, or not and build the model with internal bulk heads or not it will warp or not warp. Plastic card is made from quite low quality material and I do not think of the exact same chemical make up each time. This leads to some sheets being very stable with no support and others distorting with all support and laminations that I could possibly add. The good thing it is cheap enough to have a second bash if the first one decides to go all wavy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 So far I've not had any trouble with warping with the card, I don't know if the use of matt varnish spray helps, but anyway I have decided to give the plasticard/styrene sheets a try on my next project, with the scalescene terraced houses,cutting out the small windows doors etc could be a deciding factor... ...but I can see that both have their uses, and could be used together on the same model, one thing - I wish I'd had gone for the black sheets now instead of white, as I think the edges would be less visible thanks all Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 4, 2015 Author Share Posted March 4, 2015 To go back to what I started this topic about, ie impressions or rather observations; it might be a coincidence, but I seem to have developed a pain in my arm; centered around the elbow and tendons, which has rendered my arm rather weak I can exacerbate this if I hold cutting blade too tight. I'm sure it's using the scalpel for the last few weeks, and maybe holding it too tightly whilst cutting the card... I'm not being a wimp about this honest! At work I'm struggling to lift anything with my right arm Maybe it's the onset of arthritis? I just wondered if anybody had encountered the same. It won't stop me though, I'm still enjoying this hobby, but I must learn to relax more... .....sorry for having a moan! cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Dave, been there, had/have the same problem, will reply later with some solutions/coping mechanisms. ATB Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Hi again, back at the big 'pooter... I suffer from osteo-arthritis with painful neck and shoulders and one elbow after an old rugby injury and the aftermath of being knocked off my bike by a taxi. Being 65 years old and having built 100 metres of 9" concrete block walling 5 years ago can't have helped either! Two or three years ago I thought I might have to give up card modelling. Instead, on SWMBO's insistance [i am a winger at the best of times] I sought the advice of a retired medical expert, who gave [for me] good advice, roughly as follows:- Posture is critical when cutting out card, the dining room table and chairs will not do for any length of time unless you are young, fit and flexible, in which case you should be out chasing girls and playing rugby...oh, perhaps not too much of the latter! Seated at your work bench your elbows should ideally be about 2" above the bench tops so that you are not 'shrugging' in order to cut. I adapted my 'Staples' computer seat by fixing it in the highest position by clamping thick plastic waterpipe around the main shaft with cable ties so that it doesn't sink down. I have a small triangular section foot rest from Staples that allow my thighs to remain parallel to the ground and let me keep my back pressed lightly against the back-rest. I wear long sleeves in winter so that my elbows/forearms are not chilled by the cold laminate desk-top. I used to have several pairs of spectacles in different strengths that I used to do modelling. I continually bent closer or further away to adjust, but now use vari-focals with a 'sweet point' that matches eye to desk hieght, and coincidentally improved my driving as they let me read road signs from further away! Good lighting is essential to avoid having stretch your neck to peer at the work, I use a daylight spiral eco lamp bulb, and paid extra for a Philips 15W instant start one. This equates to about 90W with virtually no heat, and as summer temperatures here in SW France are frequently in the 30C it helps when the Anglepoise is only 12" from ones head. In thicker card I try to cut ALL cuts that run in the same direction at the same time, using a big snap-off knife so that a lot of my hand absorbs the pressure. Pic 1. It can mean that the thicker blade raises a rougher edge on the card but I sand it off with my little sandpaper plane. I have started substituting thinner card for Scalescene builds where I reckon it won't make much difference, where a laminate chimney stack is needed, I add another layer or two to bring it up to about 8mm by sticking the cut-out and laminated pieces to a bigger piece of card and cutting round them. This avoids having to print out more pieces. Pic 2 & 3 show intermediate walls in 1.2mm card, the end walls in 2mm. I avoid where possible having to hold down a piece of card for an extended period with my left arm whilst cutting out components by clamping it to the edge of the bench with a piece of 6mm MDF and a little G cramp. Pic4. Finally, I rarely use a scalpel, but have turned to a smaller snap-off knife on the princilpe that I hold it with my whole hand. I hope that helps. When I do overdo it, I use Ibruprofen gel and lay off for a couple of days, during which time I read RMWeb, Railway Modeller and re-read The Aubrey-Maturin series of sea adventures. Poop-poop, Doug Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 I would like to press several buttons together: Agree+Thanks+Craftmanship+Instructive... not possible 'fraid ! And would like to add just a little: - rough edges become rarer the better (i.e. sharper) the knife edge is ( greed doesn't pay !) Therefore I snap it off more often than not. - instead of a G-clamp I use a ruler with foam rubber glued to its underside - quicker than unclamp-move-clamp… Regards Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 Doug, I cannot thank you enough for your very detailed reply, and indeed the attached photo's. You have covered it all very well. Concerning old injuries, or problems similar to this, years ago, I used to tour extensively on my motorcycle (France as it happens!, and not one of those fast jobbies, just an old BSA), and after a days riding, I had the same problem as I have now, that was due I think, to gripping and holding the throttle for hours on end, I found that at petrol refills, I could hardly hold the pump. anyway, back on topic I think the main problem for me now, is my computer chair, I will renew at the earliest opportunity, I has a tendency to lower itself, so I do find myself in a lower position than I want. I will get one with lumber support too. I do know that good lighting is essential, as indeed good spectacles, I too wear vari-focals and find them better than a separate magnifying lens on a stand. I will look for a different cutter than my scalpel, if only to save me buying new blades. You mentioned keeping the wall thickness down, but with N gauge, the thickest I cut is only 1mm Your last point, yes I have rested for a couple of days and it definitely has eased the problem anyway, onwards and upwards as they say! and thanks again for taking the time to reply cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Get down to Poundland and you should find sets of either 5 or 7 snap off knife sets that include both large and small, I use them all the time keeping my scalpel for intricate paper cutting only. As soon as you feel the blade starting to drag, snap it off for a new piece, I use a small pair of needle nose pliers for snapping and hold the end of the knife tight so as not to crack the plastic as I find the built in snappers to not work very well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 That's great, thanks.... I ask SHMBO to grab me some, as she almost lives in those places! ...please don't tell her that though! a belated apology to Clive a few posts ago... I read your post properly this time, you were of course referring exclusively to plasticard sheets and not card as my answer alluded to....Doh! another observation....it's a friendly bunch on here isn't it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Abel Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi again, back at the big 'pooter... I suffer from osteo-arthritis with painful neck and shoulders and one elbow after an old rugby injury and the aftermath of being knocked off my bike by a taxi. Being 65 years old and having built 100 metres of 9" concrete block walling 5 years ago can't have helped either! Two or three years ago I thought I might have to give up card modelling. Instead, on SWMBO's insistance [i am a winger at the best of times] I sought the advice of a retired medical expert, who gave [for me] good advice, roughly as follows:- Posture is critical when cutting out card, the dining room table and chairs will not do for any length of time unless you are young, fit and flexible, in which case you should be out chasing girls and playing rugby...oh, perhaps not too much of the latter! Seated at your work bench your elbows should ideally be about 2" above the bench tops so that you are not 'shrugging' in order to cut. I adapted my 'Staples' computer seat by fixing it in the highest position by clamping thick plastic waterpipe around the main shaft with cable ties so that it doesn't sink down. I have a small triangular section foot rest from Staples that allow my thighs to remain parallel to the ground and let me keep my back pressed lightly against the back-rest. I wear long sleeves in winter so that my elbows/forearms are not chilled by the cold laminate desk-top. I used to have several pairs of spectacles in different strengths that I used to do modelling. I continually bent closer or further away to adjust, but now use vari-focals with a 'sweet point' that matches eye to desk hieght, and coincidentally improved my driving as they let me read road signs from further away! Good lighting is essential to avoid having stretch your neck to peer at the work, I use a daylight spiral eco lamp bulb, and paid extra for a Philips 15W instant start one. This equates to about 90W with virtually no heat, and as summer temperatures here in SW France are frequently in the 30C it helps when the Anglepoise is only 12" from ones head. In thicker card I try to cut ALL cuts that run in the same direction at the same time, using a big snap-off knife so that a lot of my hand absorbs the pressure. Pic 1. It can mean that the thicker blade raises a rougher edge on the card but I sand it off with my little sandpaper plane. I have started substituting thinner card for Scalescene builds where I reckon it won't make much difference, where a laminate chimney stack is needed, I add another layer or two to bring it up to about 8mm by sticking the cut-out and laminated pieces to a bigger piece of card and cutting round them. This avoids having to print out more pieces. Pic 2 & 3 show intermediate walls in 1.2mm card, the end walls in 2mm. I avoid where possible having to hold down a piece of card for an extended period with my left arm whilst cutting out components by clamping it to the edge of the bench with a piece of 6mm MDF and a little G cramp. Pic4. Finally, I rarely use a scalpel, but have turned to a smaller snap-off knife on the princilpe that I hold it with my whole hand. I hope that helps. When I do overdo it, I use Ibruprofen gel and lay off for a couple of days, during which time I read RMWeb, Railway Modeller and re-read The Aubrey-Maturin series of sea adventures. Poop-poop, Doug Pic1 18.jpg Pic2 IMG_3817.JPG Pic3 IMG_3818.JPG Pic4 mix.jpg Doug, re: Pic 1 - that can't possibly be your hand, it MUST be posed surely!! Mine only look like that if I've not been building for a week or more, otherwise the fingers generally have very nice clean slices off the edges/ends!!! One day I'll get clever enough to move my finger out of the WAY of the blade <sigh> In other news, definitely agree on posture/position when cutting otherwise I also quickly can feel wrist and elbow soreness. All points well taken, Lovely model by the way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Well it seems like others have this 'elbow' thing, and the ends of fingers sliced off? .....tell me about it! It's even harder trying to work with the plaster/band aid hindrance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Abel Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Well it seems like others have this 'elbow' thing, and the ends of fingers sliced off? .....tell me about it! It's even harder trying to work with the plaster/band aid hindrance Indeed - a couple of times when I first started with the card kits (Scalescenes, just love them!!) I had to give up and wait due to the bandaid issue. That and getting blood on parts as I held them <sigh> what a nuisance. Much as some folks still consider these lacking depth/texture, I'm well pleased and really have enjoyed the process, it's almost therapeutic, with the exception of slicing your fingers up! I think they provide sufficient scope for modification and customization that suits me. How the hell you manage it in "N" though, I don't know...I'm challenged enough with the "OO" miniature components sometimes, I think what you've done in N is amazing!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Yes, I think Scalescenes kits are great too, the attention to detail in all aspects is amazing. thanks for your comments, I'm honoured Sir! , but having looked at many examples on these boards, I know that I'm nowhere in that league! Yes, I agree - N gauge is fiddly, and I would rather be working in 00 myself believe me! but the guy who's railway and loft space it is, and to which I am contributing; has invested in a large stock in N gauge loco's and rolling stock, and so I'm just happy to be part of it. We are currently insulating and boarding out his attic, so it really is at an early stage... The baseboards will be next...maybe I could compile some photos etc when it starts to take shape - in a separate thread thanks again Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Well, I forgot to include in my earlier post my solution to the need for a scalpel type cut but with a big comfy handle... Basically it is an Exacto large handle and a Swann-Morton "No. 1 craft knife tool blade". These are about £5 for 50, and you can see how I have simply snapped off a little of the non-cutting end to allow it to slide well inside the Exacto handle. Much, much less tiring to use for protracted periods than a small scalpel handle, I commend it to the house... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandycat Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Motion carried Doug! I got this from Aldi, it being heavier and bigger to hold than my scalpel, it does take less effort to use and feels much better thanks again cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Indeed - a couple of times when I first started with the card kits (Scalescenes, just love them!!) I had to give up and wait due to the bandaid issue. That and getting blood on parts as I held them <sigh> what a nuisance. Much as some folks still consider these lacking depth/texture, I'm well pleased and really have enjoyed the process, it's almost therapeutic, with the exception of slicing your fingers up! I think they provide sufficient scope for modification and customization that suits me. How the hell you manage it in "N" though, I don't know...I'm challenged enough with the "OO" miniature components sometimes, I think what you've done in N is amazing!! You sound more sensible than me, but once, pressed for time and with blood oozing through the E'plast I got desperate. Having heard of surgeons using super-glue to mend injuries, I tried Balsa wood cement on a cut thumb. I will never, never, never, never, never, never, never do it again.... Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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