wollastonblue Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Time plunge feet first into the dark world of O gauge. Having never entered a RMWeb challenge before, the Loco build challenge really inspired me to have a go at a locomotive kit. Some of you may know that progress on my N gauge layout has ground to halt due to a 1 year old causing chaos in the household. So this is the ideal situation for me to keep on railway modelling, and maybe even develop an O gauge shunting plank as a result of the loco build. My locomotive kit building skills are the same as my skills in underwater diamond mining. The only kits, I have ever built are Faller, Metcalfe, or of the Airfix variety. So a locomotive kit with motor and wheels is going to be a major challenge for me. So with my skill set in mind I have chosen the Connoisseur Models Starter kit of an LSWR C14 or Little Nellie as many of you may know her as. See link below: http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Starter%20Loco.html I'm hoping to get better with my soldering skills, have a go with an airbrush when she needs painting. If successful then a few wagon kits will follow as will an O gauge shunting plank. Wish Me Luck!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 One thing I have learnt over the years is that when soldering, cleanliness is essential, both of the material to be soldered, the tip of the soldering iron, and some would say the solder as well, although I have never gone that far! Until last weekend, I have been using an Antex soldering iron with the stand, and I've been using the sponge to keep the tip clean. The sponge, however, has now been replaced with a curly brass tip cleaner, something I've seen but not seen for sale before. I got mine from Hobby Holidays and it's on this link - I'm only telling you this as a satisfied customer. If you have any other questions, ask away. There's plenty of help and knowledge on this forum to sort out any issues you have, so good luck and welcome to the world of loco building! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 An ambitious approach but entirely possible. Indeed, if you're like me, you may find brass easier to obtain a good result in than plastic or card. I'm rubbish at plastic kits but I like to think I've made a modestly OK job of the etched kits I've built. As far as practical advice is concerned, as well as the loco instructions themselves, read Jim's treatises on general brass kit construction, drivetrains, wheels etc. They are superb, clear documents and you won't go wrong by following them. As a first timer, you're probably better off glueing the whitemetal bits on. It's maybe not as durable but it's less scary than soldering them and more likely to result in a presentable finished model. Good luck . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 An ambitious approach but entirely possible. Indeed, if you're like me, you may find brass easier to obtain a good result in than plastic or card. I'm rubbish at plastic kits but I like to think I've made a modestly OK job of the etched kits I've built. As far as practical advice is concerned, as well as the loco instructions themselves, read Jim's treatises on general brass kit construction, drivetrains, wheels etc. They are superb, clear documents and you won't go wrong by following them. As a first timer, you're probably better off glueing the whitemetal bits on. It's maybe not as durable but it's less scary than soldering them and more likely to result in a presentable finished model. Good luck . I wholly concur with this, and would add to use epoxy glue (I recently bought some quick setting (5 minutes!) epoxy - £15 for the pack, but it's in tubes and I can mix as small or large amount as I want) rather than superglue, as it will stick better and longer. Again, good luck! Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 If successful then a few wagon kits will follow as will an O gauge shunting plank. I do wish you luck, however I think the approach is wrong. Do at least one wagon first ( the 2015 Challenge has another category for non-powered "kits" - It will test your ability at soldering and just about everything related to it at a lower initial outlay/risk. It will give you the confidence (or not) to tackle the slightly bigger problems that go with a loco build. Jim's kits are very good, the instructions are sound and the kits a pleasure to build. (there are others) He does quite a few wagons and the brake van (every layout needs one) is as good as any. Even if you go with the loco first just post questions as you go along - it has all been done before and so someone here will have solved it. I wholly concur with this, and would add to use epoxy glue (I recently bought some quick setting (5 minutes!) epoxy - £15 for the pack, but it's in tubes and I can mix as small or large amount as I want) rather than superglue, as it will stick better and longer. The only downside is that you never learn to solder white metal. It is not THAT difficult. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I do wish you luck, however I think the approach is wrong. Do at least one wagon first ( the 2015 Challenge has another category for non-powered "kits" - It will test your ability at soldering and just about everything related to it at a lower initial outlay/risk. It will give you the confidence (or not) to tackle the slightly bigger problems that go with a loco build. Jim's kits are very good, the instructions are sound and the kits a pleasure to build. (there are others) He does quite a few wagons and the brake van (every layout needs one) is as good as any. Even if you go with the loco first just post questions as you go along - it has all been done before and so someone here will have solved it. The only downside is that you never learn to solder white metal. It is not THAT difficult. Having built both a Connoisseur brake van and their Y7, which is closely related to the starter loco, I'd contend that the loco was actually easier, albeit more expensive. As for soldering whitemetal, I'm not saying to never try it; just that, on a first time kit, there are going to be enough simultaneous learning curves going on without adding another one which can be avoided. Time enough on the next build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 As for soldering whitemetal, I'm not saying to never try it; just that, on a first time kit, there are going to be enough simultaneous learning curves going on without adding another one which can be avoided. Time enough on the next build.And I do agree with you - the problem is one of it is a bad habit that can become perpetuated into the next, the next and ... forever refusing to ever try soldering white metal simply because of the scare stories and other nonsense that has evolved around it being some kind of black art. For the first kit OK - there probably is enough to learn with soldering a brass/n-s kit. So, I'm not saying don't use glue - just don't make a habit of it. As for first kit (wagon vs loco) I see far too many failed attempts and rescue requests where the "enthusiast" buys a kit of their favourite loco (that is far from being a "starter" kit) and scare themselves silly when they open the box and see all the parts or etches; or make a start and give up due to complexity and nothing lining up or simply not having the right tools. They then get apoplexy when they see the cost/time it takes to have it built. I reckon that 90% of all kits sold end up not being built (often just started with all good intent but then abandoned for one reason or another). Giving up on a wagon is less likely (fewer parts, no gear/motor/pickups, no round bits, often a simple box with bits stuck on) and generally costs less. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wollastonblue Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 Firstly thank you for all your advice, I really appreciate it. I am going to take Kenton's idea, and run with it on doing a wagon kit first. So an order has been placed for this: http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon%20Kit%20Pages/LNER%2020%20Ton%20Lowmac%20L.html It's a wagon I would have gone for if I do go for a shunting plank, as I quite fancy doing a steel works. Similar to one that was built by John Allison, I operated many years ago at Stourbridge Exhibition, when I was member of the railway society. Nothing fancy, just flat wagons in and out of a big corrugated warehouse. I will see how I go with this kit, and then progress onto Little Nellie. Although reading my BRM February, I also fancy a go on the Tower Models 02 Class diesel shunter. But that will be way down the line. One question I do have. My workbench is also my dining table (Glass), is there anything I should use other than my cutting mat and newspaper to protect it and me from SWMBO? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 One question I do have. My workbench is also my dining table (Glass), is there anything I should use other than my cutting mat and newspaper to protect it and me from SWMBO? I made kind of a giant bench hook out of an old kitchen cabinet door. It's handy if SWMBO wants to do something wacky like use the table for eating as you can just lift off the whole thing including any work in progress and put it back later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 One question I do have. My workbench is also my dining table (Glass), is there anything I should use other than my cutting mat and newspaper to protect it and me from SWMBO? Crash helmet and ear muffs might be a good start! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2015 I am going to take Kenton's idea, and run with it on doing a wagon kit first. So an order has been placed for this: http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon%20Kit%20Pages/LNER%2020%20Ton%20Lowmac%20L.html There's some push-out rivet detail on that kit (and little bit on Nellie IIRC). To make the rivets consistent you want a tool. The simplest is a gravity riveter like this one You'll want a surface to rest the work on that's hard but has a little bit of give. I find a bit of smooth laminate floor plank nice-side-up does the trick. If you intend to do a lot of riveting (and who wouldn't) then the GW Models rivet press is a lovely thing. You can't buy them online except for stupidly inflated prices on eBay. I bought this one new from his stand at Reading a couple of years ago for £45. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted March 21, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2015 I would recommend a heat resistant mat for soldering on, it will also take pins to help locate or hold parts. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Mat-Ceramic-Fibre-8-Mat-1240oc-12-mm-Thick-/150950968640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232560fd40 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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