Ben Alder Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I am using Peco Code 75 points along with their PL13 accessory switch which is generally working OK but a couple of these switches are not making sufficient contact to provide continuity- the more inaccessible ones of course... so I am thinking of replacing these PL13's with a microswitch to do the job. For practicality I do not want to play around with repositioning the points as such, so I would appreciate any suggestions for types to use. Never having used these before I am a bit at sea with all this, so any advice gratefully received. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 This is how I'm doing mine with microswitches: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95749-ingletyme-a-very-puzzling-blt/&do=findComment&comment=1833501 These are the long arm switches http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230897714153 and these are the short ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-5A-Microswitch-Lever-Actuator-Switch-SPDT-micro-switch-V4-KW11i-3D-Printer-/230790379618 The seller is away and eBay won't let me into his shop, but I seem to be able to link to these items. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Many thanks for that- just what I was looking for- I'll digest this but should sort my problem I am sure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 The Peco PL15 switch is a better quality replacement for the PL13 and is much more reliable. It contains two micro switches and fits in the same way as the PL13 for an easy upgrade. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium BR60103 Posted April 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 4, 2015 Here is how I did mine. (based on an idea by Mike Walton) Cut rectangular hole at end of Peco throwbar. Insert microswitch. Not shown: glue square of scribed wood to top of microswitch and use pins to keep it in position or adjust. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 I've just posted some pictures on another, very similar, thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97918-frog-switch-for-copperclad-construction/?p=1843615 I like either the microswitches with the long arms acting on the motion of the points or the cheap sliders built into the rodding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 For a more reliable, flexible, and easier solution for about the same price why not use a latching relay wired in parallel to the point motor as a switch? You can place it anywhere you want - does not even need to be anywhere near the points, you could even place it in the control panel if it was more convenient. The only down side is that if you switch the point manually you wont activate the switch. Otherwise it takes the mechanical issues almost completely out of the equation resulting in much increased reliability. I have used them on my layout and they have yet to have a single failure. I got them a little cheaper than this one because I bought in bulk, but I just had a quick look for the first one that would fit the bill. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELAY-DPCO-2A-12V-SMD-LATCHING-Part-KEMET-EE2-12SNUH-L-/390813577634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5afe4df1a2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 For a more reliable, flexible, and easier solution for about the same price why not use a latching relay wired in parallel to the point motor as a switch? You can place it anywhere you want - does not even need to be anywhere near the points, you could even place it in the control panel if it was more convenient. The only down side is that if you switch the point manually you wont activate the switch. Otherwise it takes the mechanical issues almost completely out of the equation resulting in much increased reliability. I have used them on my layout and they have yet to have a single failure. I got them a little cheaper than this one because I bought in bulk, but I just had a quick look for the first one that would fit the bill. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RELAY-DPCO-2A-12V-SMD-LATCHING-Part-KEMET-EE2-12SNUH-L-/390813577634?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5afe4df1a2 Years ago someone made what looked like a DPDT switch, but one of the poles was momentary contact only. One side worked the point motor the other side switched the frog. Am I imagining all this??? Anyway Coffee Break over back to work....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Years ago someone made what looked like a DPDT switch, but one of the poles was momentary contact only. One side worked the point motor the other side switched the frog. Am I imagining all this??? Anyway Coffee Break over back to work....... I think I remember those. I vaguely remember that I may have used them on one of my layouts, but can't be sure now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Here's another method I've used. Drill a hole through the lever of a switch to take the wire for a wire in tube system. Solder short bits of tube either side. The switches are inserted into aluminium angle that was attached to the back of the layout. Sorry about the state of it as I dug it out of my bits that may come in handy one day box! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike2steam Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Because of back trouble, I now mount my point motors on top of the baseboards, hidden under buildings, so the 'footprint' of the workings have to be kept as small as possible, this pic shows a micro-switch mounted on a 'bridge', made of brass strip, over a Peco PL-10 motor, on my layout ( taken a few years ago!). I use micro-switches sprung with the lightest resistance so as not to interfere with the point workings. The Peco PL-13 is too unreliable, the PL-15 too expensive, and fiddly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Sidelines Posted April 4, 2015 Share Posted April 4, 2015 Hello Ben Did I read that you are having problems with the points 'furthest away'. Reading the thread I guess you are now sorted. If not maybe you need to consider a CDU to operate you points+switches or thicker electrical wires. Just a thought Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Hello Ben Did I read that you are having problems with the points 'furthest away'. Reading the thread I guess you are now sorted. If not maybe you need to consider a CDU to operate you points+switches or thicker electrical wires. Just a thought Ray Furthest away is not very far, and reachable- all mounted on top of baseboard, but the offenders are not readily able to be "tweaked" to alter the throw of the Peco switch. I do use a CDU, but the problem lies with the basic cheap and cheerful switching mechanism itself, although to give it its dues, about twenty others are working fine. However, plenty of help and info from all contributers , which has proved most informative, and I will certainly be going down this road: should have done it from the beginning,I suspect.... I'll report back when job done, which won't be immediately, but many thanks to all who have taken the bother to reply -much appreciated.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Alder Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Just an update on this. I fitted three of the worst offenders with the switches as suggested, with complete success, by making them contact with the movement action of the motor- as seen here. This has solved the immediate problem, but I might do a replacement of them all, in any idle moments. Some will involve a cradle to work above the Peco motor, but most can be fitted on the surface. Easily hidden with a hut- the rearmost on the left hides one of them. I left plenty wire to allow for any future access, which was tucked away below the surface ( a layer of cork and 5mm foam giving a useful "topsoil" for such excavations). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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