Campaman Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi I have some hand built turnouts that I need to switch the frog and also lock the blades in position, I don't want to use motors so am opting for wire in the tube using miniature slide switches to switch the frog and lock the blades. I have found some on Amazon that are 50V DC 0.5A, would these be suitable for frog switching as I am unsure what amps are involved, I am currently on DC but may go to DCC in the future Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 The current rating of switches is linked to the tendency for an arc to form as the contacts are opened. The rating for AC will always be higher, since the current in an AC circuit naturally dies away periodically and any arc is extinguished through lack of current flow. With frog switching, whether DC or DCC (AC), you will (should ) only be switching when there is no loco on the turnout and thus no current flowing and no possibility of arcing. In other words, they will be fine for DC or DCC Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi Thanks for that, I will get some ordered. Its getting your head round that unless something is actually drawing the current the amps are not flowing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 When I did something similar, I was a bit worried that slide switches wouldn't be up to the job, so used toggle switches instead. I had to drill through metal rather than plastic to attach the wire, but don't remember it being a problem. They were fixed to aluminium angle screwed to the back of the baseboard. I think lots of people have successfully used slide switches though. They weren't quite this dusty and dirty when in use! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Yeah I did consider toggle switches, but thought I would have to try to drill further up the shaft than you have to get the amount of throw needed. I will try the slide switches and see how I get on, cheap as chips on Amazon compared to Maplins, just ordered 30. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Mine were for P4 standards, so you're probably right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi I have some hand built turnouts that I need to switch the frog and also lock the blades in position, I don't want to use motors so am opting for wire in the tube using miniature slide switches to switch the frog and lock the blades. I have found some on Amazon that are 50V DC 0.5A, would these be suitable for frog switching as I am unsure what amps are involved, I am currently on DC but may go to DCC in the future Thanks Here's a photo of something similar I did. It may be of help to you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi Yeah that's exactly what I had in mind, its good to see it in the flesh so to speak. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted May 20, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 20, 2015 And here using piano wire with omega loops on EM copper clad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Use an omega loop if using hand made track. Less strain on the points. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Campaman, well, this is not Wire in Tube, but similar (klick me): 'Rod in Trough'. In the following post #18 there is a real WiT example (same layout). Mind: if thought ahead, you will not only 1) power the frog and 2) lock the blades, but also 3) indicate point setting by position of the knob (applies to WiT as well as to RiT). 0.5A may (!) be a bit weak with certain locos, under certain circumstances ( I have an old Trix Glaskasten that drew 0.8A – until I cleaned the commutator…) Hope this helps. Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks to you both, exactly what I had in mind, just waiting for the switches to turn up, think they are on a slow boat from China :-) Plenty of other wiring to do in the mean time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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