Compton Goods

[jamest]

Hi,

 

Really impressive stuff - you are telling the story of the layout build well - and making a fine job of it too.

 

I have been constructing an inglenook too (Bratton Lane below) - but I stuck to code 100 and free card buildings to get trains running faster! - you are certainly doing the Rolls-Royce version :-)!

 

I will watch with interest.

 

Regards,

James

[Junctionmad]

great description of plastic slippered turnout construction, Im about to start a layout with the same idea, somewhat bigger, around 40 turnouts !!!

 

can I ask what the blue turnout unit connected too the brass welding rod is ?

 

what did you use for the  tie bars at the blades of the turnouts 

 

regards

 

Dave 

[mightbe]

Hi Dave, 

 

Thanks.

 

Those are Blue Point Switch Machines, and they come in packs of 1, 5, or 10. It's self-latching, non-motorized unit that also changes the frog polarity. They're quite rugged and hold the blades solidly. The pressure/throw is adjustable, depending on where you slide the fulcrum to on the wire. They also make a nice quick motion, not at all dissimilar how lever-operated points move.

 

I needed something that would hold the blades in place, but didn't feel the need to spend the money for motorized ones. Probably a best for a fiddle yard or some place off the main lever frame.

 

Link to one of many suppliers: http://www.micromark.com/Blue-Point-Switch-Machine-Turnout-Controller,8535.html (I bought mine for $9.00 each at a show in Kansas City)

 

My tie bars are just PCB soldered straight to the points, slightly shorter than the timber length and possibly narrower too. I drilled a small hole in the center for the wire.

 

Quentin

 

NOTE: the wire included is VERY strong. I nearly gave myself an ulcer when I tried to cut it with ordinary wire cutters, and health and safety was not improved when I used a dremel! 

Edited January 20, 2016 by mightbe

[Junctionmad]

thanks Quentin

 

 

Dave 

[ess1uk]

I was thinking of getting the same SR buffer stops.

Must remember what you said if I do get some.

 

Any new updates?

[mightbe]

Nothing has progressed since. I'm not sure what'll become of it. I'm back at school and dabbling in the dark arts. (just P4, mind you   )

Edited February 14, 2016 by mightbe

[halsey]

Just found this - impressive!

[Knuckles]

This thread is a brilliant example of 00 track work looking like something it is not. Great track indeed.

 

I thought of doing this at one stage myself but the acceptance of building my own track made me go P4 instead. Either way, really liking what you have done here.

 

So do you build your track directly on to cork as a base and ballast the sleepers, then do the rails, then transfer it as a hard unit to the baseboard?

[mightbe]

The process went along these lines:

 

*cork glued to baseboard

*turnouts built in-situ

*flextrack glued down

*primed everything with gray, then a base coat of brown-gray (spray paint from Walmart)

*painted the rails with enamel pens bought at Hobby Lobby

*painted in undiluted white glue in small sections, dumped ballast mix on it, vacuumed excess off (catching with pantyhose in the..er..hose)

*attacked everything with ground up chalk and clearcoat, working in heavy-handed layers (regrettably, it all turned out a bit too monochrome)

___________________________________

 

Note: the project is officially 'dead' at this point. Been playing with P4:

 

 

Quentin

Edited June 3, 2016 by mightbe

[MikeH_83]

Don't blame you with such a small layout.  Actually trackplan wise it looks just like my P4 shunting plank that I have just sat around!  I've decided to go with oo-sf for the loft layout though due to the shape not being ideal for P4 and I think it's better to start with something smaller like this

[Philou]

@ mightbe

 

Just had a look at your pictures - I like. I just hope I can do justice to my layout when 'Dymented' takes off.

 

Cheers,

 

Philip