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Little Midland


Chrislock

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Just got delivery of my Worsley MR 48 footers:

They don't half look short against a 57' carriage.

 

Strictly speaking the Farish coaches don't scale out at 57'. In British N they are almost 58', in 2mm 59'6".

 

The early Farish coach interiors can easily be cut up to provide seats. The early corridor stock had the corridor partition moulded separately which makes them more adaptable too.

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Soldering in 2mm scale is all about holding the parts down very precisely. You will quickly amass a collection of 'borrowed' hair clips and shorn-down clothes pegs. If I could give one tip- use solder cream. It works perfectly on small parts like these, and if you do use too much its high silver content doesn't obscure detail.

 

Look forward to seeing a rake of these fine vehicles behind your 'Spinner'.

 

Will

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Soldering in 2mm scale is all about holding the parts down very precisely. You will quickly amass a collection of 'borrowed' hair clips and shorn-down clothes pegs. If I could give one tip- use solder cream. It works perfectly on small parts like these, and if you do use too much its high silver content doesn't obscure detail.

 

Look forward to seeing a rake of these fine vehicles behind your 'Spinner'.

 

Will

 

Thanks Will, funnily enough I picked up some cream today at the AP, and a pair of locking grips to hold small parts!! The wooden clothes peg I had already sussed!!

Cheers

Chris

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I have opened up the worsley set and had a brief go at fitting one together.

I am a little confused by the strips which are attached to the side of the floor, and which i assume need to be removed?

I got as far as soldering the steps to the carriage ends, then thought I'd better stop and await advice.

A few instructions at least would have helped I think.

I am still finding it difficult to track down a picture of this lavatory third set.

 

I have been hacking at a Model Power figure to change her from Victorian to Edwardian. Blown up this big she looks a bit scary and that parasol handle is way too thick, even though its thin wire. Her companion is a Langley figure from the funeral set, with added cane. At normal viewing distance they look quite acceptable! Apologies for the blutack!

 

post-5408-127007636012_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers

Chris

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What a great couple, can't be easy messing about with parasol handles in N! smile.gif

 

Thanks for the tip about the Langley funeral set, I'm off to see what the 4mm version looks like.

 

 

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Hi Chris

 

Don't cut the strips off.If these coaches build the same as mine the strips fold up and when the floor is in position they sit inside the sides strenghening them. The floor is made to be bolted in not soldered.

 

Mark

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What a great couple, can't be easy messing about with parasol handles in N! smile.gif

 

Thanks for the tip about the Langley funeral set, I'm off to see what the 4mm version looks like.

 

 

 

The hunt set is quite useful too for toffs on horses. There's a real shortage of working class folks, although at least for the street kids some of the Z scale figures look like they might just about work.

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Hi Chris

 

Don't cut the strips off.If these coaches build the same as mine the strips fold up and when the floor is in position they sit inside the sides strenghening them. The floor is made to be bolted in not soldered.

 

Mark

Hi Mark,

Too late cos one eventually came away while I was soldering on the floor strips!

:huh:

Though I'm sure they sat too wide to be accomodated inside the coach sides anyway, but I'll check that again when I go on to coach no2!

Getting the sides on is going to be a b-gger though!

I might resort to first soldering a perpendicular triangular support to the inside of each coach end to make the soldering easier ( and therefore neater), then fit the sides between them to give them summat to latch on to.

Also, what did you do for buffer plates and buffers? There are none in my kit.

 

Cheers

Chris

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What a great couple, can't be easy messing about with parasol handles in N! smile.gif

 

Thanks for the tip about the Langley funeral set, I'm off to see what the 4mm version looks like.

 

You noticed the similarity then, Mikkel?

;)

Your figures are an inspiration as I've said before!

 

Cheers

Chris

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Mention has been made of Tim Watson's 'Spinner', oddly enough this was the model which convinced Tim to move from N to 2mm scale. If I remember correctly, he originally built the loco to pilot his Compound on his then N gauge layout. He found that the play in N gauge wheel and track standards, compounded by the short fixed wheelbase, resulted in the loco travelling at an angle to the line of track.

 

Michael

 

Interesting post script : Since removing the overscle 3mm drivers and replaced them with a much finer pair of 15mm 15 spoked Kean Maygibbs bought at Ally Pally, the loco has adopted a slight but noticable oscillation when it moves down the track!

I will try removing them and opening them out a tad on their axles. I am reluctant to drop the original ones bsck in because you can see daylight through the new ones, and they look so much better!!

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  • 1 month later...

Geetings - if there's still anybody there! If not I will enjoy communicating with myself... :unsure:

 

I thought I may as well use the same thread for Little Midland Railway Engine No2.

 

I really intended to build an 0-4-4T from the chassis remains of a butchered Dapol M7 which never really looked anything more than a Johnson-rebuilt M7 tbh, but the little motor looked so , well, little, that I dared to think - would it fit into a petite Johnson 1F?

 

I have been haunted( slightly, I won't exaggerate) by the image of that lovely red 7mm 1F open cab on passenger duties on the Ellerton Road ( I think) layout at the Alex Palace.

 

So I decided to do a little research, dig out some books and though lacking an engineers drawing, did turn up enough data to plan out an N gauge model. A scaled down photograph of full cabbed 1638 provided the measurements. I already have a converted GF 1F from a Jinty, so this one needed to be much smaller to pass real muster and look right.

 

I sent off to the 2mil Assoc. for 3 pairs of their delightful driving wheels; to Nick at NBrass for some fittings ( only just sent so still awaiting a Salter safety valve). Luckily I had the other fittings from my attempt at the 0-4-4T, and a good clean up brought them up lovely, though the chimney took some work with a file to create something of the correct profile for the loco to be copied. This involved mainly straightening out the upper and lower curves.

 

I have been working on this more slowly than the Spinner, manily because I find tank engines a different proposition - the chassis and drive cause me the most problems.

I wanted to use the bits in my box ( waste not want not), and though I was tempted to try a Z gauge motor/gear train, I plumped instead for the simple expedient of driving a spur directly attached to the middle drivers.

 

So two weeks ago I started on the body with the drive situation not completely resolved ( still tweaking trying to get smoother running - is it possile with the method chosen??

Part way through I decided to construct my full cab prototype after reading experiences of other modellers construction notes ( Steve yours too!), and thinking it would hide the motor.

However, I am glad to report that the motor will not in fact fit in a closed cab without a huge amount of hacking out, and I have resigned to having to disguise the motor as best I can, al fresco so to speak. Cue a portly driver and fireman?

 

Here is the project so far - I think I need to trim a few rails ( and straighten that middle bunker one) and add some handrails and steps. I'm not sure about what else to add. I did have reverser attached but removed it as it stood too far out to clear the conrods!

 

post-5408-127282322377_thumb.jpg

 

Note the fittings are just sitting on the boiler as yet.

Any comments as always appreciated- especially as to how other N-gaugers accommodate better gear arrangements in small models like this!

 

Regards,

Chris

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In case anyone is still following this thread I'll add a picture of the 1F as it is now.

Its ok, is the verdict. One or two problems - including a fault with my airbrush (or it may have been the paint, which had been mixed for some time)which dolloped thick paint over one side - hence the remains of paint in places,cos I had to give it a complete scrub up.

Does anyone happen to know if dropping the body into paint stripper would remove the lingering traces?

I don't actually think what is left will affect the final look, but it would be psychologically good for me to send it to the paintshop completely clean!Anyway, having a break before I try painting again!

I intend this engine to be resplendent in lined Midland Lake, as it destined to be on passenger duties.

The Farish 1F convert will handle the shunting work, and I have a Union Mills 2f which I am detailing up to handle goods traffic.

Here is the brass 1F alongside the Farish former-Jinty for comparison.

The chimney has now been replaced - i hve used a much filed down Coal Tank chimney instead, but it was not an easy task to remove the one I soldered on!!

I ended up having to saw it off near the base, file back to the base and then solder the new one on.

I think it was worth it - it's not exactly a Johnson but it looks more the part for this nineteenth century engine.

post-5408-127318245173_thumb.jpg

Regards

Chris

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Looks wonderful, especially the chassis. Is this a sign of an impending move to 2mm finescale?

 

domestic paint stipper shouldn't do any damage to an all-brass loco, but it is generally quite ferocious stuff. An alternative (which happens to be much cheaper) is automotive brake fluid.

 

Will

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Guest Natalie Graham

Nice looking locos. I do love those little Midland locos.

 

Tim Watson's model was a beauty. Something I don't think anyone has yet mentioned is that he cast the dome in gold to get the look of a shiny brass finish.

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If a 7mm modeller may offer some advice,

 

1. For roofs the wooden method using 2 mouldings is easily the best way. I have tried brass and plastic but wood strips have proved to be the easiest. If you have the profile most decent joiners witha spindle moulder can do the work and it isn't too costly.

 

2. As I did with my spinner, don't worry about the train just build an inspection saloon adnyou have a ready made train.

 

The model looks great and I will continue to watch this thread.

 

Jamie

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Will wrote:

Looks wonderful, especially the chassis. Is this a sign of an impending move to 2mm finescale?

 

I reckon it would be an easy mod Will, as the wheels are not yet glued into their muffs.

It's true I have been putting together some easitrac and built a turnout using a FSA milled base, but I have, like some others, used NMRA tolerances so that I can feed the easitrac into 9mm points. This will allow me I hope, to run some of my N gauge stock whilst having the classy look of finescale, as they seem to run ok on the easitrac.

It's a bit experimental but if it works it saves me having to rewheel.

 

Natalie wrote: Tim Watson's model was a beauty. Something I don't think anyone has yet mentioned is that he cast the dome in gold to get the look of a shiny brass finish

 

I have heard so much about this amazing model, but never seen it even in picture. I wonder if it is still running somewhere?

Jamie wrote : For roofs the wooden method using 2 mouldings is easily the best way

 

 

Yes I've heard about that idea, but had no idea about how to go out and get it done.

 

I am also going to try making a wooden mould then getting a vacuum formed roof produced in styrene.

That brass one was a lot of work for an average result!

 

Regard and thank for your comments

Chris

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Tim Watson's model was a beauty. Something I don't think anyone has yet mentioned is that he cast the dome in gold to get the look of a shiny brass finish.

 

I have heard so much about this amazing model, but never seen it even in picture. I wonder if it is still running somewhere?

 

There are colour photographs of the loco running on Chiltern Green in the March '80 Model Railways and April '80 Railway Modeller. The construction of the loco was the subject of an article in the September '79 Model Railways. Model Railways may be defunct but I'm sure it would be a copyright breach for me to add any photographs here. But if anyones interested send me a PM and I'll be happy to send you a scan - personal use only of course!

 

Incidentally it wasn't the dome that was gold, the Midland painting theirs, but the safety valve cover and the crew: both being cast in dental gold. The dome would never tarnish and the crew were a weighty metal in the right place. Tim has included similar castings in subsequent locos though gold plating may be better for larger scales. His Stirling 'Single' also had the lubricators for the inside cylinders turned from wrought gold wire, again obviating the need to polish.

 

Michael

 

Michael

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The construction of the loco was the subject of an article in the September '79 Model Railways.

 

Michael

 

That is an astounding piece of work and truly puts mine into the vin ordinaire rack!

There is nothing compromised on Tim's model, I guess even the wheels must be self-turned.

It is a shame if it's locked away somewhere.

Could someone not persuade him to take it along to the 2mmFSA Golden Jubilee? I can't imagine a more fitting contribution, and Mark Cox is taking along his Witney ayout, so he'd have summat to run it on!

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Here is the Johnson 1F loosely assembled with the motor sitting in place, showing that there is a little room in the bunker for some coal not sure where the crew will go though!

 

I like the look of the loco from the back view - it looks "right", and should look the part towing a couple of Bain's suburbans into Little Midland station.

 

 

post-5408-127333662958_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Cheers,

Chris

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Hi Chris, that back view of the 1F is really good, it looks right as you say. The crew will just have to adapt and find whatever space is left - as per prototype practice!

 

This is a great thread, in my opinion the MR engines are the only contenders to the GWR in terms of graceful pre-grouping engine design. Always wanted to do a joint MR/GWR layout, maybe some fine day.

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That is an astounding piece of work.....

I guess even the wheels must be self-turned......

Could someone not persuade him to take it along to the 2mmFSA Golden Jubilee? I can't imagine a more fitting contribution, and Mark Cox is taking along his Witney ayout, so he'd have summat to run it on!

 

Fear not Chris, Tim's work causes awe amongst many. And yes, he turns his own wheels. With Copenhagen Fields at the Golden Jubilee there is likely to be opportunities to view much of Tim's subsequent models: the Kirtley 0-4-4WT, Baldwin 2-6-0, Stirling 4-2-2 and his Silver Jubilee train. Tim's a charming fellow and I'm sure would be happy to discuss modelling.

 

There are many fine modellers in the Association, looking through the various albums on the 2mm Association website can be both inspiring and the cause of some trepidation.

 

And I agree with Mikkel, the 1F looks very nice, rear view included.

 

Michael

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Hi Chris, that back view of the 1F is really good, it looks right as you say. The crew will just have to adapt and find whatever space is left - as per prototype practice!

 

This is a great thread, in my opinion the MR engines are the only contenders to the GWR in terms of graceful pre-grouping engine design. Always wanted to do a joint MR/GWR layout, maybe some fine day.

 

Well I've soldered in a 5mm plate to stick some coal onto now, and the motor just fits in front of it, so I can just see a couple of skinny enginemen "leaning" out of their respective cab sides!!

 

I think that the Midland happened to employ two of the very best Pre-Grouping locomotive designers in Matthew Kirtley and Samuel Johnson.

My own family have several links with the old Midland through employment - my mother's family moved to the East Midlands from Northampton for the work. I have always been particularly enchanted by a photograph of my Great Uncle Wal on the footplate of a 1F at Toton Sidings circa 1905, so I never really entertained modelling anything else, attractive as I find some other railways!

 

Regards,

Chris

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