PECO POINTS

[theunborn]

Hi could someone explain electrofrog points wireing ive got some peco code 100 electrofrog points i will be using dc control and want to use peco point motors with accessorie switch for polarity changing.

 

cheers

['CHARD]

Have you read the leaflet that comes in the box? From memory Peco does a good and easy to follow job in its instructions.

[naugytrax]

If you don't have the instruction sheet, you could go to the Peco website and download the instructions for the Code 75 concrete-sleepered turnouts. The electrical info is the same for all recent Electrofrog turnouts. Older turnouts will require you to use Option 1 only, or cut the rails to do Option 2.

Have you read the instructions, and if so can you tell us what it is that you need further help with?

[Pete the Elaner]

I would avoid the Peco accessory switch. Its reliability is not the best.

[theunborn]

Have you read the leaflet that comes in the box? From memory Peco does a good and easy to follow job in its instructions.

 

Hi yes i have got the instructions but the bit im stuck on is these are the new points with the cuts in and underneath little bits of wire accross the gap it says on the instructions for dcc to cut them but dosent say what to do for dc control do i leave them alone and just wire the accessorie switch as per the instructions or do i have to cut the wires.

 

cheers

[theunborn]

I would avoid the Peco accessory switch. Its reliability is not the best.

 

Hi ive got a seep motor with built in switch but dont know how to wire that up no instructions is there another way of changing the polarity of the points?

 

cheers

[slow8dirty]

Hi unborn,

for trouble free running you will be best off cutting the wires you have mentioned, and having the frog polarity changed by whatever switch you end up going for(I dont like the PECO PL13 either just for the record, but it is easy to fit). If you leave it at that as per the instruction leaflet you will be relying upon the contact between the point blades and the running rails for electrical continuity. Trust me , this will get worse over time no matter how clean your track is, or prove unreliable for a whole running session. I had a set of N Gauge points that were a pain, they set the road but didn't apply enough pressure to give reliable contact even when pristine. The recommended thing to do is to bond the stock rails to the running rails(Ie solder the outer rails to the inner rails where that gap in the sleeper webbing is that runs across the whole points width.) I can post a picture of some of the newest code 75 I've just done the other night, if you want, as they say a picture paints a thousand words.

To summarize read through any of the numerous threads about the correct way to wire them for dcc, cos that is the correct way to wire for trouble free running all the time dc or dcc.

hth Matt

[naugytrax]

Brian Lambert's explanations are widely considered to be reliable. Here's a link: Point wiring

This includes a diagram for the SEEP switch.

[theunborn]

Hi unborn,

for trouble free running you will be best off cutting the wires you have mentioned, and having the frog polarity changed by whatever switch you end up going for(I dont like the PECO PL13 either just for the record, but it is easy to fit). If you leave it at that as per the instruction leaflet you will be relying upon the contact between the point blades and the running rails for electrical continuity. Trust me , this will get worse over time no matter how clean your track is, or prove unreliable for a whole running session. I had a set of N Gauge points that were a pain, they set the road but didn't apply enough pressure to give reliable contact even when pristine. The recommended thing to do is to bond the stock rails to the running rails(Ie solder the outer rails to the inner rails where that gap in the sleeper webbing is that runs across the whole points width.) I can post a picture of some of the newest code 75 I've just done the other night, if you want, as they say a picture paints a thousand words.

To summarize read through any of the numerous threads about the correct way to wire them for dcc, cos that is the correct way to wire for trouble free running all the time dc or dcc.

hth Matt

 

Hi thanxs for the info explained nice and easy:D id like to see a picture if you could put one up that would be great.

 

cheers

[theunborn]

Brian Lambert's explanations are widely considered to be reliable. Here's a link: Point wiring

This includes a diagram for the SEEP switch.

 

Hi thanxs for the link will take a look do you know if the seep motors are better than the peco ones.

 

cheers

[slow8dirty]

As requested,

Apologies for the standard of photography but hopefully that illustrates what I'm on about. The standard of soldering is admittedly pretty dire but in this context thats probably a good thing, demonstrates that if I, the worlds worst solderer, can do it anyone can. So if you think about it the frog area of the point is now dependent on your switched supply(good) and the point blades will always be the same polarity as your running rails regardless of blade contact(also good)B) .

Or as explained in Brian's site linked to above.

hth, Matt

[theunborn]

As requested,

Apologies for the standard of photography but hopefully that illustrates what I'm on about. The standard of soldering is admittedly pretty dire but in this context thats probably a good thing, demonstrates that if I, the worlds worst solderer, can do it anyone can. So if you think about it the frog area of the point is now dependent on your switched supply(good) and the point blades will always be the same polarity as your running rails regardless of blade contact(also good)B) .

Or as explained in Brian's site linked to above.

hth, Matt

 

Hi thanxs for the pic i understand now will have a go over the weekend if i get time thanxs for everyones advice.

 

cheers

[micklner]

Good picture etc here

 

http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Electrical/LiveFrogWiring.aspx

[theunborn]

Good picture etc here

 

http://www.mrol.com....FrogWiring.aspx

 

Hello thanxs for that i will print pic off and use that as a guide;) .

 

cheers

[BluenGreyAnorak]

I'm just about to start nailing track down for my layout but, having read this thread, it looks like I need to modify my points before I do, so thanks guys. I just wondered though, are there any similar mods required to single and double slips?

[96701]

I'm just about to start nailing track down for my layout but.....................

 

Nailing? I've glued mine using Copydex with the track held in place with drawing pins until the glue dries. No nails to bend or break sleepers

[BluenGreyAnorak]

Sorry - it was a figure of speech rather than a literal description

[Karhedron]

Hi thanxs for the link will take a look do you know if the seep motors are better than the peco ones.

I have not used them myself but according to others they are similar (i.e. not ideal but better than nothing). The main advantage of the Seep ones is that the switch is built-in rather than having to pay extra for it and then fit it.