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Brassey

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Everything posted by Brassey

  1. I tend to build the chassis rigid on the Hobby Holidays jig first. That way I’ve got a better chance of getting it square and the axles parallel. Don’t forget the hole for the beam first. i cut out the horn guides after. We’ve had this discussion before but High Level hornblocks are by far the best use the rods to set the jig for the hornblocks. Obviously need to be jointed
  2. When I did the brakes, I cut off the fret with the hangers and rolled all 6 complete on the fret in one go. Otherwise they are prone to kinking at the holes. I held the wooden blocks in a vice to solder them on individually. All very fiddly p
  3. You may find that once you put the front brake hangers on it’’a hard to get the chassis on behind the guard irons. There’s not much room there
  4. The GWR Duke is now up on its wheels. This is to be 3328 Severn as seen at Hereford. Being one of the last batch, it has a BRO boiler ansd 2500 gal tender. This variant is not catered for in the Finney kit, so a bit of kit mingling/scratch building is required. The 1224 Mashima should fit straight up into the raised firebox.
  5. Hi John, OK. Yes I think they are and that must be a rather old kit. My Brassmasters Experiment class came with the cutouts and instructions prepared for Maygib hornblocks but they weren't included. It also had the cutouts for Studiolith hornblocks which must date back to the 70's. Also not included. I fitted MJT hornblocks but High Level would have done the trick too. I'm thinking of taking the plunge and building my C Class with CSB Peter
  6. John Good to see it coming along including the flangeless axle. Are those Maygib sprung hornblocks? Petet
  7. Here's another in the background that the Peaky Blinders have taken to Walsall:
  8. Can I ask how you resolved the ride height of the bogie on this build?
  9. How did you resolve the bogie issue on this build? Does the bogie sit on the spring wire?
  10. Despite the lo-tech fixed wheel compensation, the City, 3401 Gibraltar, seems to run ok. Probably aided by the weight of the whitemetal boiler.
  11. LNWR tender engines were not prone to running tender first which presumably is why the bufferbeam on the tender was not painted red but black.
  12. Herewith chassis progress for my Finney GWR Duke. As stated before, the twin beams are retained by tabs through the frames. No too convinced of the longevity of this solution but time will tell. There's just enough room in P4 to get a High Level RoadRunner gearbox between now. Next, do they same on my Finney GWR City: The beams sit just below the footplate.
  13. I've seen some of David's rakes in the flesh and excellent his carriages are too. Shame they were running on the OO Dewsbury layout and not LNWR metals.
  14. At some stage I concluded to move it to the loft which was always the initial plan. That would require min radius curves of 4ft to make it work as a roundy. For that reason the LNWR Experiment leapfrogged other builds as, being the largest loco I plan to build, it might be the most challenging to get round the corners. For the same reason my C Class 0-8-0 is now also on the workbench. I had planned to add a scenic extension but might, in the end, move the layout into another bedroom as an end to end. Either way, I need to do work that will be a lot easier when it is dismantled rather than shoehorned tight into a corner as now. Such things as cosmetic chairs… I also plan to replace the boundary with hedging rather than fences as per prototype. Don’t hold your breath for any action anytime soon.
  15. I think I soaked mine in Dettol solution to remove the paint and that loosened the glue enough to pull it apart. It then spent another few years pinned to a board to straighten the footplate out
  16. I’ve left things to soak literally for years. This is a long term hobby after all.
  17. Very neat conversion but not too sure the water scoop round the right way?
  18. Very nice. I've built a couple of these Comet chassis; one of them sprung the other compensated as yours. I also use the same HL gearbox but found that by putting the motor at an angle you can get a bigger one in. Mine are 1224. Do you have the High Level tender chassis?
  19. Yes, as I stated previously above, I have used and trialed this method of splitting the pivot. But in 4mm, the nuts and bolts I used were 14ba. After a while the bolts/screws started to rotate in their holes and soon worked loose and the whole thing became slack which inhibited good running. I doubt that I could have used bigger bolts as in 4mm kits there is not much meat in a compensation beam for such a hole. Luckily in that chassis I could just take the nuts and bolts out and run a brass wire straight through right across the chassis without dismantling it. That is because I used a High Level Road Runner plus with a drive stretcher which avoided the shaft. Performance greatly improved. In the Finney City and Duke I am using HL Road Runner without any stretcher and plan to solder the split pivot shaft to the tabs provided as per the pic. I am not convinced of the longevity of this solution but will see. It will be interesting to compare the two City chassis when complete to see how they peform in comparison. The wheels are in the paintshop so it won't be long before they are on.
  20. If you are putting it through rollers, that will replace any curling.
  21. I have arranged the beam so that 2/3rd of the that weight is on the front driving wheel and 1/3rd on the bogie. The rear fixed wheel carries weight too. Other issues with twin beam is that you get a pivot right where the gearbox is. You can either use various drive stretchers on the gearbox to work round this or split the pivot. I have done this but found the pivot ended up too slack so reverted to the previous method. However, on the 2 Finney chassis I have on the go at the mo, there are some clever tabs that fold up into a box that hold the loose end on the pivot wire. You can make them out in the pic between the drivers on these two 4-4-0's. Top is the City and the Duke is below: The other issue with an unfixed axle is torsion and the need to restrain the gearbox in some way. The Finney chassis have this covered but for the Portescaps they were designed for. It's built into High Level chassis using his gearboxes. The wheels for these two are now in the paintshop drying...
  22. I use tin snips. Used the same pair for 45 years. Does it for me.
  23. LNWR Experiment 4-6-0; beginning to look like a loco
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