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RMweb Gold
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Everything posted by Regularity

  1. I was intrigued by the signalling diagram for Kerrinhead in MRJ 259: access to the coal drop siding appears to be via a lever on the frame, with 3 subsidiary signal arms associated with it (one for progress from the loop to the headhunt, and then individual arms for headshunt to loop and headshunt to coal drops. I may be wrong in that interpretation, of course. It seems somewhat over-signaled - maybe something the NER might have done - compared to some of the other signalling on the plan. Would be interested to know more about this arrangement. I have seen diagrams for other LYR branch termini, but they were double track with a single platform, e.g. Holmforth, etc, so not directly comparable.
  2. OT, but is that why I feel like I am being addressed as if I were 14?
  3. He has rated a post this morning, but if he is about, then he will have some catching up to do!
  4. Looking good - very sturdy. Will you be adding adjustable height feet to the legs, or just take some shim/packing with you?
  5. Bonus: when the layout is not in use and the weather is wet, you can use them to dry clothes. Watching clothes dry is slightly more exciting than watching paint dry: usually a bit quicker.
  6. Those are J class, not j class... Ah. [square root of -1] see.
  7. It was a very eloquent, very thoughtful and very loquacious submission, but I have two problems with it. Firstly, I think it a mistake to have taken the bait that Tony was dangling: he obviously has strong opinions and a desire to find every possible reason to justify his own modelling paths by denigrating others. Tony: why not simply say that you made various choices for various personal reasons, and that you have no regrets over this because of the space requirements for the scope of the layout you want. Nothing wrong with that. Heck, you could even say that you know it is possible to build a mainline layout to P4 standards, but your personal understanding of the work required was that it would take up too much of your time and energy. Secondly, Iain also mentions a private P4 layout, but overlooks “Heckmondwyke” with a 42” minimum radius, and also the “Irish P4” layout Adavoyle, which apart from being an unusual subject, demonstrated that properly designed and made, Proto standards not only work, but work in such a way that the trains ran through the station (at speed) with just the right amount of movement, something which is not achievable in 00. And that the work involved to get to this level of reliability is not that great, either. I think the second point refutes Tony’s opinion as being without factual basis, and as a response to the original article, is all that is needed. The body of Iain’s letter is, however, a wonderful exposition of the thinking behind making an informed decision over track and wheel standards when working in 4mm scale, and should be recommended reading reading for anyone considering a thoughtful and serious approach to the hobby. (I am advocating here that we take the hobby seriously, but not ourselves.)
  8. Nothing wrong with that: wear your nerdiness as a badge of honour!
  9. Now we know the “missing” line from the film script, preceding this:“And that, My Lord, is how we know the world to be banana shaped.” Thanks for that: a puzzle of many decades standing is resolved, courtesy of the magic of RMWeb...
  10. I believe IKB also rated his friend Robert Stephenson as the best engineer of their era. But without wishing to detract from RS, wasn’t it Henry Booth who suggested the key development that was ultimately the foundation of the modern steam engine, imaginary or not: the multi tubular boiler? Not only did it increase the heating surface area, but also forced the drought, producing a hotter fire, effectively turning the steam locomotive boiler away from an externally fired to an internally fired engine? And to all those 16mm ng modellers, a centre flue gas-fired boiler is externally fired, as the draw on the fire is unrelated to the exhaust steam partial vacuum. Internal - i.e. “inside” - does not mean internally!
  11. Jacky, As you are using wood for your ties, and not plastic, you should be thinking of staining rather than painting. You can still use paint, but it needs to be well thinned, as you have the benefit of natural grain, and you can get this to show through. On a layout which was abandoned any years ago due to an unfortunate error in the baseboard construction which only became apparent when I started to lay the rails, I had great success using Humbrol “gunmetal” paint thinned to about 10% paint. I soaked the ties beforehand, but it should work applied as a wash, perhaps in more than one coat: you can also apply a coat of thinned down chocolate yo get a hint of brown, if you wish. If you apply thinned metalcote gunmetal as the final wash, you will get a hint of the silvery sheen typical of weathered creosoted timber so typical of ties that have been out in the elements for a few decades. For a darker colour, maybe newer track, the “tarmac” is a good base for the initial wash. Paint the rail as you would otherwise do. If using enamels, to this later, if acrylics, then do this sooner. I prefer the slower drying times of enamels for thus. Others may also use inks and alcohol. Whatever works for you, if it gives you a good result: the important thing is to adopt and and adapt the technique and materials to suit yourself, Suggest you have a trial on two or three ties away from the layout. Allow time for the washes to dry before applying another coat. It is possible to use washes to paint styrene to look like wood, but it requires a few extra stages. If there is some texture to the surface, it is a lot easier as paint will naturally accumulate in any dips, so it is worth dragging some coarse grit abrasive paper along the supposed grain: not much is required, no need for saw blades or anything. Then apply white primer, followed by a diluted wash of cream (to get a good base colour) and a very thin one of red oxide or something similar (adds some “warmth” to the base). Then follow on as above. I haven’t used this technique on track, but it works well on wagon interiors: Hope that helps.
  12. Alternatively, in these days of being more environmentally aware of waste, you are ahead of the game when it comes down to recycling. Besides, they will be covered up with scenery and track beds, so who will know?
  13. Exhibition reviews would really come alive with a backpack hoving into view, followed by a lingering whiff of armpits which have not seen soap for some time, and deodorant never at all... Edit: iOS predictive text doesn’t know the word “hoving”!
  14. Gary, Good to hear (read?) that you are home with gall bladder intact. One question, and I don’t want in any way to be alarmist, but in amongst all these tests and examinations, have they checked your pancreas?
  15. Good man! And in case anyone thinks this childish, they might be right but they should read Michael Palin’s sleeve liner notes on the first Travelling Wilburys album, or Eric Idle’s notes on the second. (Amusingly called “Vilume 3”. Oh how we laughed.) Unfortunately, there wasn’t a prototype called “Jampton”. Was there a GWR 2900 class called, “No, I always walk this way.”?
  16. As indicated, we have taken our contretemps off-line, and had a very interesting discussion. At least, I think so, and I hope Dave thinks so, too. On with the love-in... My major concern is that the basic dimensions be accurate, and main features correctly proportioned. Since my major modelling activities, such as they are at the moment, are North American outline S Scale, even a “cheap” RTR freight car (goods wagon for those not bilingual in English and, er, English) costs a bit, what with VAT and shipping (and VAT is applied to that as well!) so I am extremely grateful that in the late 70s I started down the path of buying things like Hornby class 25s and replacing cast details, and adding screw link couplings, etc, as it means I have no fear of buying an expensive brass engine, such as my USRA 0-6-0*, and taking it apart in the cause of minor detail variations, but also re-profiling the wheels and probably replacing the drive with something more discreet. Most of my US friends (but bizarrely none of my Canadian friends) think I am brave to do this, and some wail that I am mad and have decreased the value of my model (bless ‘em: it has increased the value of theirs!) but I take the simple view that what I want to achieve is an accurate model. Whether the starting point is RTR, kit or raw materials is not always the point. The end result always is. What I have found is that if something is massively inaccurate, it isn’t worth buying to begin with as the amount if work is more than starting from scratch. I have also found that the more “input” I provide, the more personal satisfaction I derive from the finished model, but the fewer models I have as a result. Thus, dimensionally accurate RTR can be a real timesaver, even if some of the details are wrong, missing, or in need of refinement. In this day and age, where the hobby is no longer about selling toy train sets and getting kids to want extra items for birthdays/pocket money savings, but us about a serious adult pastime, then dimensional accuracy should be taken as read and Dave makes a valid point: why not be prepared to pay a bit more for the correct details, why not have the manufacturer design this in from the start? It’s not a new idea: after Chris Ellis modified a class 33 into a class 26, Lima were so taken with the result that they borrowed his Model for a number of years, and worked out that by having some sections of the moulds replaceable, they could ring the changes, e.g. a different cab roof, and you have the basis for a class 27, different pattern of grilles at the cantrail, and you cover the type 2/type 3 variations. Not every single detail can be covered this way, but many could. Not only that, but if (for example) there were two patterns of grille on the nose, then have a receptacle on the nose, and apply the appropriate grille for a particular version. This would be manna from heaven for detail freaks, as it would be easy to remove the moulding to replace it with an etching from the “after market”. If anyone thinks this is daft, it already happens in the USA and Canada, where the serious end of the hobby expects to see the correct detail variations, including the correct cab and dynamic brake blusters, match up with the paint scheme. Yes, these models do cost more, but many of them are superbly accurate and excellent runners. The extra cost is more to do with extra care and quality than having a multitude of variants, as the major units - the core part of the body, and the truck (bogie) side frames - see much more production, and therefore a better return on capital investment as well as a reduction in unit cost and therefore final sale price. When I heard the phrase “design clever” being used by Hornby, I thought the above was what they were going to do. Alas, I was wrong, but there is no reason why a manufacturer could not pick up on this. It would quite possibly lead to more use being made of the main body moulds, as rather than simply producing new liveries, the details can be modified to suit. The differentiation between their main range and the “Railroad” range does indicate some of this thinking, but more could be done. And even the Railroad range is streets ahead of what was available to me as a young teenager. (Some of it is on a par with the Airfix and Palitiy Models which forced Hornby to up their game. Some if it is the old Airfix and Palitoy models...) Threads like this one are important: it is not just about finding faults, it is about pointing out how they could have been avoided, and most importantly, it is about telling the manufacturers that we are not kids, we are adults who in return for a bit of respect from the manufacturers are prepared to pay a little bit more for an improved result. *The purchase of which caused not a little disruption to domestic harmony, when SWMBO found out!
  17. A white horse goes into a bar. “We’ve got a whisky named after you,” says the bartender. “What, Eric?” Says the horse.

    1. Jinty3f


      "Yes, my name is Grant" said the horse.

    2. Hroth


      Meanwhile all you could hear behind the bar was the continual muttered from the ciggy display.

    3. NGT6 1315

      NGT6 1315

      Potent stuff you got there, it seems. :-D

  18. Just make sure that the shelf is suitably braced! To assemble one, you might wish to visit this website: https://throwflame.com
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