locomad2

I had a similar problem about a year back and posted in motor & drive thread (sorry cant link) seemed due to over tight armture the shaft bored out sideways the hole where the little bearing sat. Fixed it by just adding a new bearing on top of old one,, and adjust the top nut on armture, loco runs fine now

As a teenager I once lost a brush while cleaning and replaced it with pencil lead, think it was a Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T but cant reallly remember. Locomotive worked well then and probably still got the pencil lead in, so have a few locomotives since. HB leads are softer but have used 2H as well. Often file a curve in one end of the lead

One of the minor disadvantages of running old Kitmaster coaches is the tendencies of the windows falling out during service either due to glue failing, bad handling or the odd derailment. However the good news is nearly aways the glass remains inside the coach and using double-sided tape on little finger can be put back without removing roof or underside. This particular example is unpainted except for linings, and doesn't have the excellent peco cardboard interiors, considering its over 60 years old stands up well to most modern coaching stock.

You dont seam to come across them 2nd hand at toy fairs prehaps type of models modellers hang on too as they work so well

Yes it is and just realised Meccanco went bust 60 years ago, the mail coach still works the grandchild think its great fun putting those little mail bags on the hook

Ive a few of them those slimline however i dont find them that compatible most tension lock coupling especially triang mk3 stock so larger one left on the front. One advantage then was quite easy to swop them over well ahead of there time now we have modern nem fitting

Here is my 31 getting on for 40 years old and still looking brand new. Actually its the original body as its one of the first models I decided too "collect" suitable fitting cheapo tatty bodies and repaint, detail etc and swap and keep just 1 or 2 chassis in good working order. Thus I tend to have just a few chassis and lots of different bodies which fit, keeps costs down. Hence with class 31 ive still got some unpainted Airfix bodies in white or grey plastic, messing about over years somewhere is a Classs 31 in British Army deep bronze green with black "Mickley mouse" camouflage. This one runs beautifully, very smooth with excellent haulage abilities easily copes with 9 Kitmaster mk 1 coaches which are quite heavy it never needs attention as last service date was may 1991, original rubber tyres on black wheel and yes centre one is fixed and cut off. Somehow doesn't distract from a neat looking model. Considering cost £15 for the set thats about £3 for the locomotive 1985 prices ( 2 pints of beer ?) Reckon best value model ever

Ive one in green part of a special set sold by WH Smith with 3 blue BR coaches in early 80's rrp was about £24, in a special offer was just £14, i think someone made a mistake and took £10 off instead of 10%. Really popular model been on every layout since purchase, quite powerfull with no vices & good looking, far better than some of the modern rubbish sold now

Age of the plastic I've a similar one been boxed for years, like yours the inner removable sections are a different colour assuming from a different plastic batch

Very much agree with you, about 15 years ago tended to start using "airline 10" very light oil used as in line lubricant for air tools, then it was about £5 for 5 litres, you dont need much for model locos Another problem is actually getting a very small drop onto the very small bearing either end of HD motors, city and 2-6-4T as example. Medical syringes and needles are not easily found. I now use and empty "polycemment" bottle, as used for making plastic kits, with a 0.7mm bore metal needle. By putting long 0.6mm wire (mig welding wire) down it you can restrict the flow. BTW same wire can be used to clear the hard poly glue sticking in the tube. I now find most need re oiling once a year, ampmeter reading taken before and after running, I notice on average a reduction of amps of about 10% is noticed. I also listen carefully as they run and notice they run more smoothly. Constant and regular oiling is a very important job on keeping locomotives in excellent running order.

Yes you do the axles sometimes seize up solid. My late father left us a few HD models, he kept a R1 chassis with a Wills body he built in a glass cabinet for a few years over a central heating radiator. The axles were solid, despite using butane gas, drilling into the axle holes and injecting oil etc I just couldn't free the axles. The motor was ok as easy to undo, in the end forced the axles out and damaged the spined ends using a 10 ton hydraulic press used for car repairs. They seemed to be a lot of different metal to metal corrosion and a kind of saltly white powder. In the 70's he used a lot of peco "electrolube" as the main lubricant, I didn't like it as locos left over a few months just seem to run poorly, as I started to use my own layout and stock I used singer machine oil and even 3 in 1, these locos are still in use today

Thanks got it now "men shed" tomorrow

Thanks i looked at Ironmink but couldn't find roadrail stuff did however find a 16T mineral wagon download. 3 D pinting is the way forward, my underframe was made using 3mm uPVC scrap plastic from cutouts in electrical conduct systems. Ive access though local "men shed" 3D printing and its a long learning curve, however have noticed some really good value OOn9 3D printed stock for sale at local model shoes and toy fairs, when RTR manufacturers are charging up to £20 per wagon, at £1 each for almost the same wagon a 3D wagon unpainted and no wheels that might be the future or our hobby.

Ive got somewhere a WR fruit van in green with SR on the side purchased from a toy fair decade's ago. I assumed at the time they were Wrenn or Dapol bodies using "tempot" ? manufacture system to apply paint. Its the same system as used by most modern model railway manufacturers now. With the Dapol factory local to this area i come across at model railway shows and toy fairs quite a few Wrenn (old HD) bodies with all kinds of odd marking on. Ive come across some old stock where a rubber numerals (like old date stamps) are used to apply numbers with almost dry paint onto stock. I've experimented myself to tidy up HD numerals on locos and it works with some practice works quite well

Increasing hard to find unmade Scalecraft kits and as a result silly 2nd prices, however still come across cheaper bodies often without or missing under gear So here is recent scratch built effort Some differences to aid quicker and stronger unferframe, side triange holder one solid piece and cut out to allow tyre to fit higher up, solid tyre axle, Miniature screws as fastening these sourced from old mobile phones with star heads as they really look like axle hubs. Also use bigger wheels with pin point axles for better running Also looking at Railroader trailer for containers, read about these years ago can't find the article could even be American, I believe a few prototypes made, I've lots of containers. Also read one disadvantage was the extra weight of the rail wheel used on roads for both American and British versions, a method of adding a road wheel to the rail wheels was considered and prototype built so the rail axle became rigid and become a road wheel saving weight, looking at that method too