Civilian Land Rovers in 4mm

[Alister_G]

A recent discussion on Waverley West's thread raised the point that at present, there are almost no commercially available models of that most common of farmer's vehicles: the Land Rover Short wheelbase hardtop with Series 2 / 2a / 3 styling.

 

Anyone modelling a rural or semi-rural scene in any time period from the mid 60s to the early 90s should have at least one of these vehicles appearing somewhere, but at the moment this isn't possible with off-the-shelf models available, and not much choice with available kits, either.

 

Oxford Diecast produce a number of different Series 1 vehicles, but these were nowhere near as common or widespread as the later Series vehicles.

 

They also have a planned Series 3 SWB Station Wagon and Hardtop to appear sometime in 2017. but what if you can't wait 'til then?

 

The obvious choice from the range of available kits is the Airfix (previously JB Models) Long Wheelbase Series 3 with GS trailer in either hard or soft top variants.

 

As a long time Land Rover owner and enthusiast, I decided to have a go at building myself a Series 3 SWB Hardtop, using the Airfix kit as a base to work from.

 

So here's the Donor vehicle:

 

 

 

Despite the box art, and the illustrated painting guide, this kit is not really a very accurate model of a Series 3 vehicle. The general dimensions of the body are OK, but the front wings and grill area are horribly inaccurate, and look nothing like a Series 3 or any other prototype Land Rover, for that matter, as you can see:

 

 

The Airfix kit seems to use the wing shape of the Series 1: which has a much greater curve on it than the Series 2 / 3, and because of that, they haven't enough room on the flat part to put the proper headlight arrangement.

 

The shape of the wheel arches is wrong too, as on the model they are depicted as having a complete curve, whereas on the real thing the top of the wheel aperture is flat in both front and rear wings, and the hardtop has the roof curving seamlessly into the sides, without the distinctive gutter of the prototype, and the roof itself is too thick:

 

 

All in all then, not a promising start, but sufficient to be able to work with to produce something a little more accurate.

 

 

 

On the real prototype Land Rover, both the Long and Short wheelbase vehicles use the same front wings, bulkhead, seatbox, and doors, and so on the model I could do the same.

 

To convert the bodywork from a Long wheelbase to a Short wheelbase vehicle I could do all the modification I needed to on the rear wing section only.

 

Using a scalpel, I scribed a line where the trim panel under the doors meets the wing, and then down the back of the door:

 

 

I continued scribing, until eventually I had seperated the rear wing completely:

 

 

I had already worked out that at 4mm scale I needed to shorten the distance between the wheelarches by 7mm, which happily came just where one of the mounting lugs was, So at that point I cut off a section of the wing:

 

 

I did the same to the other side, and shortened the overhang of the body behind the wheelarch on both sides, which left me with this:

 

 

I then took the floorplan and shortened that by 7mm as well:

 

 

 

Moving on, I next tackled the chassis.

 

A LWB Land Rover has axle centres at a nominal 109 inches. I say nominal, as the build tolerances on a Land Rover were such that you could easily get a 110 inch Series 3 or a 108 inch.

 

Added to that, because it uses Leaf springs, the more weight is in the vehicle, the longer the wheelbase would be, as the axles would move apart as the springs flexed.

 

Anyway, working on 109 inch axle centres, my mathematical genius works that out at 36.3mm in 4mm / foot scale.

 

Surprisingly, that's pretty much what the model has:

 

 

Using my mathematical prowess once more, I calculate that the axle centres should be 29.3mm apart for a SWB vehicle - that's 88 inches at 4mm / foot, so I need to cut 7mm from the centre of the chassis. I will also have to cut off and shorten the prop shafts, and leave the gearbox in situ...

 

So, starting with an unmolested chassis:

 

 

I cut away 7mm from the rear:

 

 

Sure enough, this put the axle centres more or less where they should be in relation to the wheelarches:

 

 

So I glued all the bits together, and we end up with something resembling a SWB Land Rover:

 

 

Now for the front wings.

 

I cut some sections of 20thou plasticard, to both raise the bonnet slightly, and move it forward by half a mil, as I felt it was slightly too short:

 

 

 

I cut some fillets of 10thou plasticard and attached them inside the model's front wings, and then built new wing fronts and sides out of 10thou plasticard:

 

 

I used the original grill but cut away the original wing fronts.

 

 

Then I added the wheels, and various other bits like the bumper - modified to look more civilian, and scratchbuilt a rear crossmember out of 40thou styrene.

 

 

Finally I tackled the roof.

 

I cut off the side panels from the kit's roof section which came all in one piece:

 

 

Then I shortened the side panels and added them to the model:

 

 

 

I made a bit of a mistake and cut them too short, so I added bits of 20thou styrene to compensate.

 

You can see I also added some 1thou x 20thou microstrip to represent the gavanised cappings on the doors and rear wings, which are a readily recognisable feature of the real thing.

 

 

 

Then I took the roof panel and filed it down to make it flatter and more like it should be, and then cut a 7mm chunk out of the middle to shorten it:

 

 

Then, I cut some 10thou plasticard to make the guttering:

 

 

and stuck the roof sections to it:

 

 

and finally attached the whole thing to the model:

 

 

I then used filler to smooth out the wing tops and various other bits, Masked off the rear windows, and gave it a coat of Matt Olive as an undercoat:

 

 

 

Finally I applied the top coat colours with brush painting, and picked out the lights and other details:

 

 

 

 

To finish it off, I weathered it with Earth Brown aerosol, and gave it a coat of Matt Varnish:

 

 

 

 

So there we are, a Series 3 SWB Hardtop, made using the Airfix LWB kit as a base.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Al.

[sandwich station]

Oxford do a series II long wheel base Land Rover and the short w/b is to be released sometime in the near future.

[Moggs Eye]

Great work.

All layouts should have a Land Rover, now you have a unique one.

[37114]

Nice work, a definite improvement. Springside did a kit for a short wheelbase series 3, not sure if it is still available but they did truck cab, van and station wagon. I have a 12" to 1' scale Series 3 in the garage and made a model of it some years ago from the springside kit, even adding in all the gear levers in with track pins. I knew the colour was right as it used the same paint for both. By way of a comparison:

 

Model

 

Real one last year:

 

 

Real one today, getting a bit of TLC

 

[ess1uk]

That's quality Al

[PhilJ W]

Has anyone tried to upgrade the Dinky Dublo one? I recall a magazine article many years ago when some one did give it a try. Problem was the wheel arches which are oversize as are the wheels.

[tamperman36]

I've done a corgi crew cab pickup , changed the wheels and lowered the cab and crew cab roof to the correct profile.

[Alister_G]

Real one today, getting a bit of TLC

 

 

 

Ah, this must be the "lightweight" Land Rover - no engine, gearbox, bulkhead or seat box... Must make it difficult to drive though...

 

Here's one of mine in a slightly more advanced condition:

 

 

Al.

[davefrk]

What it should look like under the skin.

 

 

The body is now back on but no time to fix it down....

 

Dave Franks

[Alister_G]

That's looking nice Dave, isn't that the original Land Rover paint on the engine block, as well?

 

Al.

[Tim V]

The Airfix model looks like a Series 2A with lights in the wings with that grill. A convincing modification you've done.

 

I too have a Series 3 in my workshop.

[Waverley West]

Thanks for posting that step-by-step guide to what you did, Al. Very interesting and informative.

 

When I was rooting round in my old kits/parts box the other day, I came across one of those Springfield Series 3 SWB kits, so I may well actually get round to building it now, depending on how soon Oxford release theirs and how good it is. I'm ashamed to say I'd forgotten I'd ever bought it!! There are just so many things to do when building a layout. That's my defence anyway!

 

Cheers

Dave

[Alister_G]

Thanks for posting that step-by-step guide to what you did, Al. Very interesting and informative.

 

When I was rooting round in my old kits/parts box the other day, I came across one of those Springfield Series 3 SWB kits, so I may well actually get round to building it now, depending on how soon Oxford release theirs and how good it is. I'm ashamed to say I'd forgotten I'd ever bought it!! There are just so many things to do when building a layout. That's my defence anyway!

 

Cheers

Dave

 

 

Thanks Dave.

 

I wasn't aware of the Springside kit until 37114 mentioned it, I've just looked, and they are still listed on the website, so I might have to invest in one of those.

 

Al.

[stewartingram]

37114-landie.jpg

 

Ah, this must be the "lightweight" Land Rover - no engine, gearbox, bulkhead or seat box... Must make it difficult to drive though...

 

Here's one of mine in a slightly more advanced condition:

 

lrover06.jpg

 

Al.

Must be a Ford or BMW version though....no flashers?

 

Stewart

[Alister_G]

Must be a Ford or BMW version though....no flashers?

 

Stewart

 

Pah!

 

Indicators are for namby-pamby modern cars, what's wrong with sticking your arm out of the window?

 

Oh, wait... he hasn't got any windows yet either...

 

 

Al.

[davefrk]

That's looking nice Dave, isn't that the original Land Rover paint on the engine block, as well?

 

Al.

 

Hi Al, it was as close as I could get engine paint wise:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271379768997? They also do black which can be used for axles, brake drums etc as it's resistant to brake fluid and gear oils. Paints well.

 

Dave Franks.

[37114]

Pah!

 

Indicators are for namby-pamby modern cars, what's wrong with sticking your arm out of the window?

 

Oh, wait... he hasn't got any windows yet either...

 

Hi Al, it was as close as I could get engine paint wise:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271379768997? They also do black which can be used for axles, brake drums etc as it's resistant to brake fluid and gear oils. Paints well.

 

Dave Franks.

 

 

Al.

 

Thanks for the link Dave, I must get some of that paint as I am due to start on the engine in the new year.

Must be a Ford Audi or BMW version though....no flashers?

 

Stewart

Corrected for accuracy..

[Moggs Eye]

As a tenuous link to the original military Land Rover kit at the start of the post, apologies for wandering off subject a little, here is my own Truck Utility Medium, General Service, packed with one of my layouts for a trip to an exhibition.

Cheers,

Ben.

[exet1095]

That's looking nice Dave, isn't that the original Land Rover paint on the engine block, as well?

 

Al.

On Army Rovers the engines are painted only if they have been reconditioned and fitted into another vehicle. If you have one with the original engine it is bare metal.

 

Paul

[davefrk]

Yep I have a spare engine which is painted all over light army green and I mean all over... Civilian Landies seem to have the duck egg colour and I've seen too many that colour for it to be a one off, only the bare block was painted though all other parts were either bare aluminium or black. mine still had a fair bit of duck egg left so I matched it as best as I could.

 

Dave Franks.

[shipbadger]

Beginning to wander rather OT, but here goes, the duck colour is for engines with three main bearings, those with five were painted terracota.

 

Tony Comber

 

ex series 2a owner now Tdci Hi cap.

[phil_sutters]

The Airfix kit was originally from JB Models, which went out of production in 2003. They were aimed at the wargaming market and were never as detailed as the Airfix kits of the same generation. The Land Rover was one of the earliest of their models. Some of the later kits, like the Bedford MK, could be made into nice models. There was quite a good range of etched accessories from independent suppliers, with which they could be upgraded.

The worst part of the Land Rover for me, as a non-expert in Land Rovers, was the windscreen. The outer uprights with their two thicknesses of plastic looked very clunky and I cut out the outer edges of the main frame of the windscreen and just used the front edges of the door panels. It meant cutting new glazing but it looked better. Having the aluminium surround picked out certainly improves the look.

[PhilJ W]

Another diecast thats close to or even spot on 00 scale is the Husky forward control Land Rover 109.

[steveb860]

Oxford are doing lightweights. Already out in 1/43 rd, 1/76 to follow.

 

Heres my 1/1

 

Original unpainted engine fitted.

[phil_sutters]

Oxford are doing lightweights. Already out in 1/43 rd, 1/76 to follow.

 

Heres my 1/1

20160828_133806.jpg

 

Original unpainted engine fitted.

S&S Models do the light-weight in several versions among their 1/72 resin military vehicles. The basic version looks as though it has a solid cab & tilt, which is unfortunate. The more exotic military versions are quite a bit dearer. Best wait for Oxford!

Airfix did an early Land Rover in its Bloodhound kit, but it was even more basic than the JB models, although I think it was SWB.