RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 29, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) Once I had finally concluded that there was no more soldering to do, it was a time for a clean with solvent and stiff brush to get the flux etc out of the crevices, then a really good scrub with scouring powder and an old toothbrush. After cleaning off (gave it an ultrasonic bath as well) it was blackened, followed by another rinse and dry and then a waft of grey primer. The boiler and cab roof are still not fixed in position. Time to check if I've got enough matt black in stock, or need another trip to Halfords. Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Very pleased to report that the valve gear went together beautifully, and runs like a dream. Nothing fouling or jamming. I think the motion bracket needs to move back a fraction, as the angle of the expansion link looks wrong to me, but I'm splitting hairs. Dave. Hello DLT, I don't think that is the motion bracket that's the problem, it looks like your return crank is over the wheel centre rather than offset. That apart a very nice build. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 31, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 31, 2012 I don't think that is the motion bracket that's the problem, it looks like your return crank is over the wheel centre rather than offset. That apart a very nice build. OzzyO. Hi Ozzy, Yes I see what you mean, but I dont think it was fixed when I took the photos. The problem was that with the return crank in its centre position, the expansion link should be vertical. It wasnt, it was sloping to the rear. All the rods appeared to be the correct length, so I moved the main motion bracket back about 1mm, and that improved matters considerably. The radius rod is fixed in mid-gear, and firmly soldered to the main motion bracket. The front end this rod supports the combining lever. The front bracket, that on the real thing supports the combining lever, is purely cosmetic on the model. This bracket now needs repositioning to match the new position of the combining lever. If you get my drift...... Many thanks, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) Latest instalment on the Z is that its painted and lettered, but still awaits weathering and final assembly. Halfords matt-black spraycan overall, with Railmatch Bufferbeam Red on the err, bufferbeams. Colour photos clearly show the cab interior as black, so the cream has stayed in the tin. Hoping to have it finished to bring to Taunton on Sunday. All the best, Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Looks very work man like. You have done a lovely job of the build. Is the valve gear blackened? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 24, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2012 Looks very work man like. You have done a lovely job of the build. Is the valve gear blackened? Thanks Peter, Yes, its all blackened prior to final assembly. After a good clean up its dunked in/brushed with Carrs Metalblack for Brass. Rinsed, dried, and very lightly scrubbed to remove any film on the surface. The result is a very pleasing dark oily sheen. All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Dave Can I ask why have you not fitted the Handrails to the boiler? Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Really handsome beastie. (The handrails and other small detail presumably not fitted to ensure a really clean paint finish, no risk of any capillary action causing little blobs or even runs from stanchions etc.) Just don't let the RTR manufacturers see it, or they will be thinking 'very attractive, might well get the sales...' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 24, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) Can I ask why have you not fitted the Handrails to the boiler? The handrails and other small detail presumably not fitted to ensure a really clean paint finish, no risk of any capillary action causing little blobs or even runs from stanchions etc. I keep the pipework and handrails separate until both painting and initial weathering are done. This way every surface is fully accessible for brushing/wiping smearing etc. Once the bits are fitted I add any further weathering needed, such as streaks from leaky pipework etc, and dry-brushing of raised details. Hope this explains, Dave Edited April 24, 2012 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Having seen the loco 'in this flesh' all I can add is WOW! Thank you for sharing the building of this excellent model with us. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted April 29, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 29, 2012 Thanks Tim, I will get some photos up later. And all the bits are now attached. I thought your Stationmaster's Garden was pretty stunning too. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 2, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 2, 2012 (edited) Basic weathering consisted of dry-brushing all over with (Humbrol enamel) mucky dark grey and dark brown, and then washing it off again with white spirit. Smokebox and horizontal surfaces were left unwashed. Once this was completed satisfactorily the detail bits, pipework etc were added, and this is the state we are now at. Individual areas still need working up with a bit more weathering, and the cab interior needs completing. I know I said the cab would be black inside based on a colour photo, but who's to say they were all like that and anyway the cream shows up better. Very pleased with the front bufferbeam, but should have dusted it before photographing... The injector pipework below the cab is whitemetal and very prone to getting bent with handling. I've added weight to the sidetanks, boiler, and under the cab floor, but its still a bit light. There's a couple of good big spaces inside the frames where blocks of lead could be fitted. Cheers, Dave. Edited September 4, 2022 by DLT 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 So when does the track work for the hump yard being laid? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Hi Dave, That's a beast of a loco, nice work, l wouldn't mind one of them in 0 gauge, really nice weathering too...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 5, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 5, 2012 So when does the track work for the hump yard being laid? That would be quite something wouldn't it. Not sure how the gravity aspect of it would work in 4mm scale, can you think of anyone who's tried it? That's a beast of a loco, nice work, l wouldn't mind one of them in 0 gauge, really nice weathering too...... The DMR kit can be had in 0-Gauge, and it make a VERY impressive model. Thanks very much Guys. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71 Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Excellent work with the locos Dave!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GC Jack Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 That is a superb piece of modelling. You have really captured the look and feel of the loco. Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 6, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2012 The wheel goes around, and I am about to embark on the latest Southern loco build. This time it is a U-Class Mogul sourced from the DJH kit, but mounted on the superior and much newer Finecast chassis. I've already built one of these chassis, for the Finecast "W" kit, described at the beginning of this thread. All I have to do now is remember how I built it! The loco is one of the batch of 30 new-builds, and not one of the rebuilt "River" tanks. Various examples appeared in the West Country in BR days, and one of these will be the target loco. More soon, Cheers, Dave. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hale Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Photos, please. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 7, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Photos, please. Tim All in good time Tim, nothing to photograph yet! Main references for this are; Profile of The Southern Moguls, by Les Elsey, OPC. Locomotives Illustrated Nos. 18 & 105, Ian Allan. Various Photo Albums, particularly Maunsell Locomotives by Ian Allan, and Southern Loco Survey - Early Maunsell Classes, by Bradford Barton. Internet Search. Locos Illustrated 18 lists some post-war shed allocations, showing that nine of the class were shedded at either Salisbury, Yeovil or Exeter at some time over the BR period. Photographs show that most had the large 4000 gallon tender, only two (31610 and 618) having the 3500 gallon tender. As DJH couldnt supply the 4000gal tender, we've gone with 31610 as our chosen loco. Hope this is of interest! Dave. Edited October 7, 2012 by DLT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 7, 2012 Share Posted October 7, 2012 What we lack are decent drawings for the "new U". Virtually all the published ones have been wrong in one aspect or another. Can you confirm that the footplate and cab are the same overall width as the "N", for example? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted October 8, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2012 Oops. Forgot to drop in on this since may obviously That Z looks fantastic; love the subtle weathering, especially round the buffer front/buffer-beam. Wouldn't it be great if someone could actually cobble a sound chip for a Z. There must be a Peter Handford recording of the syncopated exhaust somewhere and then generic clanks and stuff could be added. I'd pay for one of those chips. P @ 36E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 11, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 11, 2012 What we lack are decent drawings for the "new U". Virtually all the published ones have been wrong in one aspect or another. Can you confirm that the footplate and cab are the same overall width as the "N", for example? Hi Horse, I don't think I've ever seen a drawing of a U, apart from the official works diagrams as published in various loco reference books. Can you point me in the right direction? I have got the official works side-on photos in "photographic grey" of both the U and the N, which provide a useful comparison and show differences that I for one wasn't aware of. That Z looks fantastic; love the subtle weathering, especially round the buffer front/buffer-beam. Wouldn't it be great if someone could actually cobble a sound chip for a Z. There must be a Peter Handford recording of the syncopated exhaust somewhere and then generic clanks and stuff could be added. I'd pay for one of those chips. P @ 36E. Thanks for the comments Mallard, I certainly had fun with the front bufferbeam, it being such a distinctive "signature" for these locos. I just wish I had given the thing a good dusting before I photographed it! All the best, Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I don't think I've ever seen a drawing of a U, apart from the official works diagrams as published in various loco reference books. .... F.J. Roche and Iain Beattie both tried to produce one for the "new-build", and both were wrong in the area of the cab front, and also the level of the footplate (Roche used the same height above rail level as for the rebuilt Rivers). The works diagrams that were published elsewhere have tended to be weight diagrams, not GAs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brake Compo Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 How about this http://www.nrm.org.uk/ResearchAndArchive/drawings?works=southern nagivate about halfway down to Drawing E17077, there are other related drawings around it, and if you then go through the drawing register there all the drawings that you could ever want! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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