Tank wagon kits 1890-1960?

[Ruston]

I'm looking for another tank wagon type for BT&S so I'm concerned with oil, petroleum products, tar and chemicals, not milk tanks. Period from late 1890s to early 1960s.

 

I've got the Slaters cylindrical and rectangular tanks. I've also got the Powsides 14t anchor-mounted tank, which if that is anything to go by, I don't want anything else from Powsides - so what else is there? Plastic, brass or WHY, I'm not fussed, I can probably build them all.

 

Reccomendations and photos appreciated.

 

Thanks,

[hmrspaul]

Dear Dave

 

I think POW have cornered the market (and then ruined it!). The only wagon I can think of is the early Vac braked tank (familiar as the 4mm Airfix Esso tank) which is a MMP kit see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=36470&sid=429599093f8aaaa43dcb3ce1238d97b2 There were other users of these such as Crosfields.

 

I don't even think ABS do a tank wagon.

 

Paul Bartlett

[Ruston]

Thanks, Paul. That's one to consider. I'd like something with wooden frames to be one of tar fleet too. So are all the other Powsides kits rubbish too? Has anyone built any Powsides tank kits, other than the anchor mounted that could comment, please?

 

I saw a stand at Guildex that had some all-brass tanks on it but I didn't make a note of the name and can't remember it. That they were pre-second world war era is all I can say about them.

[hmrspaul]

Thanks, Paul. That's one to consider. I'd like something with wooden frames to be one of tar fleet too. So are all the other Powsides kits rubbish too? Has anyone built any Powsides tank kits, other than the anchor mounted that could comment, please?

 

I saw a stand at Guildex that had some all-brass tanks on it but I didn't make a note of the name and can't remember it. That they were pre-second world war era is all I can say about them.

 

Possibly RTR (you didn't ask about them) by Bachmann a few years back. Not good, but useable.

 

Have a look through the archive of the GoG magazine http://www.gauge0guild.com/gazette_archive/gaz_index_menu.asp

 

Paul Bartlett

[Pint of Adnams]

Thanks, Paul. That's one to consider. I'd like something with wooden frames to be one of tar fleet too. So are all the other Powsides kits rubbish too? Has anyone built any Powsides tank kits, other than the anchor mounted that could comment, please?

 

I saw a stand at Guildex that had some all-brass tanks on it but I didn't make a note of the name and can't remember it. That they were pre-second world war era is all I can say about them.

See Buckjumper's Workbench on the previous RMWeb....http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/search.php?t=68

 

[45157]

JLTRT now produce a TTA tank wagon ..... http://www.justliketherealthing.co.uk/Button_pages/wagon_news.html

 

With a bit of time and patience the MMP kit can build into a stunning model (as with all their kits)

For example ... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/1458-brians-7mm-diesel-workbench-wagon-bits-and-bobs/page__st__250

 

Otherwise have a look here ..... http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk/

 

regards

Stewart

[Buckjumper]

I'd like something with wooden frames to be one of tar fleet too. So are all the other Powsides kits rubbish too? Has anyone built any Powsides tank kits, other than the anchor mounted that could comment, please?

 

 

See Buckjumper's Workbench on the previous RMWeb....http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/search.php?t=68

 

 

Thanks Pint. I built a pair of Powsides' Charles Roberts Cylindrical Sulphuric Acid Tanks ( ID: 708 ) which were 'interesting'. TBH the resin castings for the tank body, tank ends and the frame were poor, needing far more cleaning up than perhaps you'd expect from a trade item. In the process I came very close to losing some rivets on the tank body as they were so close to the edge that needed a lot of cleaning up, and I used lots of knifing putty to fill holes and imperfections. Almost all the square bolts on the frame were poorly formed, so I ended up making lots of little cubes from square plastic rod. The whitemetal end struts also had some severe casting imperfections which needed remedial work.

 

These two were to ScaleSeven and I found the width inside the frames was considerably less than prototypical, so much so that the wheels wouldn't fit without some major surgery - no problem if you're working in O/F.

 

In the end they scrubbed up OK, and look presentable. Would I build another? With the benefit of hindsight, and as I know where the pitfalls are...possibly.

 

As to the rest of the range, much of it is resin based so there may be similar issues, but I've built the GE opens and GN box van, which are brass etchings with w/m fittings (ex-Wagon & carriage Works, and, I suspect originated by Tim Hughes at Meteor), and all went together well.

 

 

 

 

[Poggy1165]

Adrian's photos are living proof of how a craftsman can make something of a poor/average kit. I'd like one of these for myself but the defects in the kit put me off. I'd sooner pay a bit more for a kit that went together without fuss and I can't but think some manufacturers maybe shoot themselves in the foot by offering low quality stuff.

 

Then again, there's another way of looking at it - that even a poor kit that needs bodging is better than no kit. I can't envisage scratching something of this kind!

[hmrspaul]

JLTRT now produce a TTA tank wagon ..... http://www.justliketherealthing.co.uk/Button_pages/wagon_news.html

 

regards

Stewart

 

This is a monobloc tank and not introduced until c 1964

 

Paul Bartlett

[Ruston]

Thanks, Adrian. Your tank looks excellent but, given your comments on the kit, I don't think I'd make quite such a good job of it so I'll pass on that one.

 

Would it be possible to fit a Slater's cylindrical tank, bracing etc. onto the frames of a rectangular tank and vice-versa? I'd get a bit of variation at least and have a cylindrical tank with wooden frames...

 

P.S. - Adrian, I've just noticed the fine chain for the brake lever pin. Did that come with the kit or is it an extra detail added by yourself? I ought to fit those to my stock.

[mikeg]

Why go for kits, build it from scratch, the ends can be made from the bottom of beer or cider cans, just file the ridge on the bottom until the dome falls out. The chasis can be made from brass sections from metalsmiths or similar, the 'W' irons are available as castings and the rest can be made from scrap etch, wood and wire. I've made three like this but have no photos as they are as yet unpainted, been that way for many years, but hope to complete next summer as have now got a good picture of the original wagon to use as a guide. I think that they could be made for about £15 not including wheels, but they have to be bought for a lot of kits anyway.

 

The tank barrels I made from 2.25in water down pipe with a bit cut out to reduce the dia to the correct size and then glued up using the cut out bit as reinforcement inside using polystirene cement made for the marley pipe. Wired the barrel until set and then glued on the ends.

 

regards

 

mike g

[Ruston]

I'd like to see them, painted or not. I can't imagine what you mean by using the ends of beer cans? Aren't beer cans of a far greater diameter than is needed? How do you then accurately cut the dome to the perfect size to fit?

 

I thought about scratchbuilding but the though of making all the little plates such as the crown plates and then putting rivet heads on them all puts me off. I don't know how I'd go about it for one thing. Remember, I'd like to build a wooden-framed wagon.

 

I've answered my own question regarding the slaters tanks and it's a no go. The rectangular tank has much shorter frames than the cylindrical one so the bodies can't be swapped.

[mikeg]

Although the can is much larger if you look at the base it has an indented dome in the centre with a rim that the can stands on, file the rim away until the dome drops off, you will find it is not quite the right size but near enough for me not to bother about. as to the rivits as the body is plastic you can stick small sections of plastic rod on it you realy want all of the rivets, I have not bothered as in all the pictures I have they are not visable only the plate lines which I intend to put on after painting with a black line from a roturing pen using indian ink.

 

For a wood framed wagon just use box wood of the right section from the Greenscenes range stuct together with PVA and small lill pins through the joint to strengthen, the heads look like bolts. again either cast or brass etched 'W' irons can be used with brass track pins through the solebar into small holes drilled in the metal and soldered in the back give very strong joints, I've used this on LSWR bolster wagons and they run very well although very light being all box wood with a 1mm ply floor, the most expensive parts were the buffers and wheels, I could not be bothered to turn up some buffers as I got a set of 4 for £3.50, the wagons have dumb buffers on the ajoining ends, they always ran in pairs. The total price for all parts was under £20 as the cast 'W' irons came from the GOG bring and buy stall at one of the shows for I think £4 for a bag of 20!

 

As you will have guessed I try to keep costs to a minimum, but will buy RTR if I think it is fairly priced and I like it.

 

regards

 

mike g

[45157]

I'd like to see them, painted or not.

 

Can I also add a request to mikeg for photos of the unpainted builds as I would love to see all the different materials used, so much more useful to those who would like to "have a go" at scratchbuilding rolling stock from readily available "everyday materials"

I also like the interesting look of multi-material builds, it sometimes seems a shame to have to paint them.

 

regards

Stewart

[mikeg]

Have taken a picture as requested as its been warm enough to work in the loft today.

 

[45157]

Thank you for the photo, interesting, I will be inspecting the can recycling box before it is next emptied.

If possible, a few pics of the layout would be nice, always good to see 7mm stuff.

 

A Happy and Prosperous New Year to all.

 

regards

Stewart

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Mike,

 

Is there any chance of a close up of one of the ends to get a better idea of how you have done it (in relation to the bottom of a can)? I get the concept but the appearance of a lip around the plastic tube intrigues me as to how the can is cut/files to achieve that effect.

 

Thanks.

[Buckjumper]

P.S. - Adrian, I've just noticed the fine chain for the brake lever pin. Did that come with the kit or is it an extra detail added by yourself? I ought to fit those to my stock.

 

Sorry I missed this earlier - the brake guard and chain with pin are Ambis etchings.

[mikeg]

Rob, if you look at the bottom of a can you will see the indent that forms the lip, just file the bottom off and all will become clear.

 

regards

 

mike g

 

PS had to go diner is on the table!

[Rob Pulham]

Hi Mike,

 

I did as you suggested with a couple of Fanta cans and lo and behold this is what you get by just filling the bottom off.

 

 

 

 

 

I thern took it a step further after playing with a Slaters 14 ton tank kit and rolled a brass body for it.

 

 

 

 

 

Now I just need to decide what to do with the rest of it. Fortunately I have a couple of drawings - the one that came with the Slaters kit and one in Rolling Stock Worth modelling Vol 1 by Bradford Barton if I want to make it into a rail tank. Another alternative would be a static storage tank mounted on a brick base perhaps.

[mikeg]

Looking good Rob, its not until you file the end off that you can see how useful they are. I found that most cans in the UK are the same basic size so anything can be used. I must admit that when I made a ground standing tank on brick plinths I made conical ends as they seem to be more used on static tanks than the pressed domed ones.

 

Next stage get some brass sections to make the chasis and you will have a tank thats unique to you and for little cost compared with kits!

 

regards

 

mike g

[45157]

Wow.

I have been deliberating one of those GW Models rivet presses for some time and I think that has made my mind up for sure.

 

Many thanks to mikeg for the insight in scratchbuilding tanks.

 

regards

Stewart

[45157]

Wow.

I have been deliberating one of those GW Models rivet presses for some time and I think that has made my mind up for sure.

 

Many thanks to mikeg for the insight in scratchbuilding tanks.

 

regards

Stewart

 

 

I did the deed and it arrived yesterday.

Nice looking bit of kit, I now have to resist setting off on yet another project before I have cleared at least a couple of the current ones from the work bench.

 

regards

Stewart

[Webbo]

Hi Mikeg,

I have red the topik an am empying shum beeer cans hic to mek shum tanks i wont tomek abooooooooout 20.

Just joking.

Very good idea, always thought the cans were too big, but now you have shown how to do it I think I will have a go, I have the pipe all it needs now is a bit of time after I've finished my other projects.

Alan