matto21 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Hello Here's a little store building I've been working on, very simple. It's a card shell with Slaters embossed brick glued to it using Evostick. I've never used Slaters plastic sheets before and the only other buildings I've scratchbuilt in plastic were 2 small buildings for Talerddig and I used Wills sheets for both of those. The main purpose for this building, apart from practicing building techniques was to experiment with painting brickwork. This building was first sprayed with grey primer then drybrushed with Humbrol 62 Matt Leather to give it a patchy appearance. Following this I used a wash of cream coloured emulsion wiped off straight away, the theory being to remove paint from the bricks but not 'mortar'. I found this was most effective if done in small areas. After the whole building had been done, I lightly drybrushed the surface with more Matt Leather and dark brown oil paint. I'm fairly happy with the results so far - think it's got potential with a bit more practice The untouched rear wall for comparison Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Looks great to me Matt Good work Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Looks great to me Matt Good work Jim Thanks a lot Jim! Some pictures of the finished buildings: And for fun: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted July 3, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 3, 2011 The texture on the bricks looks spot on and the door really finishes it off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 3, 2011 Author Share Posted July 3, 2011 Cheers Paul! I'm not quite sure about the door - can't decide if I like it or not Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted July 3, 2011 Share Posted July 3, 2011 Matt, Many thanks for posting this. I find it very difficult to choose colours and I think your bricks are great. I have made a note of Humbrol 62 Matt Leather for future reference. Harold. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted July 8, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 8, 2011 Looks good to me. The leather paint works better - I've not used that myself, but will in future judging by your results. The tone changes work as well. I don't like to see 'individual' painted bricks unless on a very old building, as they don't quite look right. The bricks on a modernish building tend to be similar colour as these are generally from the same batch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Looks good, I paint the mortar course first, then dry brush diagonally a red - brown mix which shows the brickwork. Then touch up some individual bricks with different shades of brown and blue diluted. The Matt Varnish, followed by dry brushing acrylic white Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 Looks good to me. The leather paint works better - I've not used that myself, but will in future judging by your results. The tone changes work as well. I don't like to see 'individual' painted bricks unless on a very old building, as they don't quite look right. The bricks on a modernish building tend to be similar colour as these are generally from the same batch. Thanks Mudmagnet. The Leather was a bit of a lucky guess really. Previously I've used Red Primer as the base colour but it's a bit too 'red' for the type of bricks I was trying to replicate. I agree with you about individually painted bricks, plus it's an awful lot of effort! Looks good, I paint the mortar course first, then dry brush diagonally a red - brown mix which shows the brickwork. Then touch up some individual bricks with different shades of brown and blue diluted. The Matt Varnish, followed by dry brushing acrylic white I find it easier to paint the mortar second, I just find it easier to control the paint this way plus you can replicate areas where the mortar has been replaced etc. Not saying it's the best way, just works for me! I've started work on a larger structure, hopefully I can make some progress over the weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 Following the semi success of my little scratchbuilt store building, I felt inspired to give something bigger a go. Here's progress on my thoroughly unoriginal diesel servicing shed loosely based on a combination of [the ever popular] Peterborough shed, the Bachmann Scenecraft shed and the shed built by Pugsley for his Chittle layout. I chose this shed because it's small enough to build with limited time but also enough of a challenge. Why didn't I just buy the Scenecraft model of the same shed? Well so far I've spent about £4 on materials [embossed plastic sheets] compared to the price of the Bachmann model and I wanted to build something myself. I've changed things as I've gone along - I planned the windows being much wider but they didn't look right - and bodged things a bit but I'm pretty pleased so far. Construction is exactly the same as the store building, mounting card with plastic sheets glued using Evostick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hello, Bit more progress with my thoroughly unoriginal depot building, as you can see below a start has been made on the roof. The back of my building, unlike the prototype has a brick wall - this was simply due to my laziness, nothing else. I'm now wondering if I should add some sort of lean to structure to the rear - any thoughts? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Very nice work on the brickwork, the weathering really does look superb. Fantastic. I have been researching different methods of weathering bricks in preparation for doing mine and have to say it has been most helpful reading about yours. Thanks for sharing it with us. The shed is looking good, I personally think it looks great as it is. I look forward to seeing more progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Thank you for your kind words Mr Grid! Here's some photos showing the method I used - hopefully they are of some use? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Hi Matt, many thanks for posting the photos and explaining your method very helpful indeed. I have spent quite a while mulling over different methods/ideas for how to go about tackling the brickwork and especially the cement/mortar. It was nice to hear that you had used cream emulsion and then wiped it straight off as not to get it to stay on the bricks as I too had thought of something similar but wasn’t sure how it would turn out. My idea was to try spraying the bricks Halfords red primer and then apply different reds/oranges/browns as required to build up a mix of different layers/colours before adding the mortar. Then weathering afterwards to give it that dirty look. The bricks I am trying to model seem to be more orange/red: http://www.martinbra...0071-totond.htm Thanks again Matt much appreciated. You have got me thinking about bricks again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 I've used Red Primer as a base colour before but found it was too red for the type of bricks I was trying to copy. Using Humbrol Leather as a base you could then drybrush various other reds and oranges to give a bit of tonal variation before weathering and adding the 'mortar' Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Made some more progress with my depot building yesterday. The roof has been finished, gutters added from Wills components and downpipes made from plastic rod [stuck on with blu tack in the photos below]. Next I need to decide how to represent the brackets on the downpipes, I'm undecided whether to use this pieces of plastic/paper wrapped around or use wire. I also need to scratchbuild some of the distinctive 'spotlights' seen on the walls of this kind of depot. All in all I'm pretty pleased with things so far Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Will you hurry up and build a layout so you can display everything properly?! As usual it all looks very nice The brickwork looks very well indeed - Leather lookss spot on for a building of that vintage too. I've been struggling with colours for the 'box I've been doing. Happy in the end but I found finding the match was the hardest part. The mounting card/plastikard/evo-stik method sounds familiar! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jim s-w Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Hi matt Your down pipe looks far too big. Better to use brass with a few winds of a single filament of wire for the bracket. Hope the below helps Hth Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Will you hurry up and build a layout so you can display everything properly?! As usual it all looks very nice The brickwork looks very well indeed - Leather lookss spot on for a building of that vintage too. I've been struggling with colours for the 'box I've been doing. Happy in the end but I found finding the match was the hardest part. The mounting card/plastikard/evo-stik method sounds familiar! That's because I 'borrowed' it from you James. I've used Evo Stick to glue plastic to card before but was always worried that the thinner embossed sheets might melt! Must say my corners aren't a patch on yours though! Hi matt Your down pipe looks far too big. Better to use brass with a few winds of a single filament of wire for the bracket. Hope the below helps Hth Jim Hi Jim, I take your point, it does look a little large and the brass rod certainly looks better. Unfortunately I've glued mine now [and I've really glued it] and to remove it would probably damage the building! I can live with it though, but next time I'll try something a little thinner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 That's because I 'borrowed' it from you James. I've used Evo Stick to glue plastic to card before but was always worried that the thinner embossed sheets might melt! Must say my corners aren't a patch on yours though! Hi Jim, I take your point, it does look a little large and the brass rod certainly looks better. Unfortunately I've glued mine now [and I've really glued it] and to remove it would probably damage the building! I can live with it though, but next time I'll try something a little thinner I think you can get away with the pipe you have.Its hard to tell but the pipe looks to be about a scale 150mm (2mm in 4mm scale) in which case is perfectly acceptable and in fact likely to empty a large roof such as that one. Building designers have to over egg the drainage to take into account storm events that may only happen once in 50 years. In fact Rolls Royce buildings have to be built to a 100 year storm event which means much over working of the pipes. Your building would more than likely have 4 x 100mm pipes but a 150mm isnt out of the question. Cheers Cav Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Here's some quick photos of tonights work. The bricks were undercoated with a dark grey mix applied by airbrush then drybrushed with Matt Leather. I've found that the colour of the undercoat makes a big difference in how the bricks look when completed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iL Dottore Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I like the rust effects you have done for the door of the store building, perhaps a tad too red (although that may be an artefact of the photography), but location and spread are nicely observed. F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 I like the rust effects you have done for the door of the store building, perhaps a tad too red (although that may be an artefact of the photography), but location and spread are nicely observed. F Thank you - you are right however, the 'rust' isn't quite so red under normal viewing conditions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mason Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Very Nice indeed matt, really like the colouring of the brick great work, so whens the layout that you have built this for going to grace our screens Cheers Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto21 Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 Very Nice indeed matt, really like the colouring of the brick great work, so whens the layout that you have built this for going to grace our screens Cheers Neil Thanks Neil! Layout? Don't know what you're talking about! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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