3 link Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hi Stephen, That's a good tip on replacing the steam/vacuum pipes with brass rod, as I'm sure you also found it's a bit fiddly in plastic. Have you blackened the wheels yet ? Only from the photos the wheels look a bit rusty, if they are rusty I would get rid of the rust straight away before the rims get pitted. I rub them clean with a glass fibre brush and then coat them with a little light machine oil ( 3 in 1 ). Talking of milk tanks have you been "over there" lately, if not go and have a look at what Richard has got his hands on in his Heyside thread. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted February 5, 2013 Share Posted February 5, 2013 Ooo errr... that's coming along nicely S! Having banged on about them a bit my only excuse for not doing one yet is that I fancied something passenger-carrying and needed a bit of light therapy (my in-progress 121) before I grit my teeth and try four (maybe five) of these. Likee lots :-) D Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Hi Stephen, That's a good tip on replacing the steam/vacuum pipes with brass rod, as I'm sure you also found it's a bit fiddly in plastic. Have you blackened the wheels yet ? Only from the photos the wheels look a bit rusty, if they are rusty I would get rid of the rust straight away before the rims get pitted. I rub them clean with a glass fibre brush and then coat them with a little light machine oil ( 3 in 1 ). Talking of milk tanks have you been "over there" lately, if not go and have a look at what Richard has got his hands on in his Heyside thread. ATB, Martyn. Thanks Martyn I couldn't get on with the plastic rod as my skills at bending plastic rod are even worse than those with brass! Thanks for the tip about the wheels but I did chemically blacken them. I don't know why they look so rusty in the photo although they do seem to be more brown than black. However, I did get some of the fluid on the wheel treads which I do need to clean off. Just been over to 'the other place', and, yes, the milk tanks Richard has acquired do look very nice. The more I look at them, I do quite fancy an ex-LMS one. Will finish this one first though. :-) Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 Ooo errr... that's coming along nicely S! Having banged on about them a bit my only excuse for not doing one yet is that I fancied something passenger-carrying and needed a bit of light therapy (my in-progress 121) before I grit my teeth and try four (maybe five) of these. Likee lots :-) D Thanks David Your 121 is coming on a treat. I'm not sure I could even attempt what you are doing as my skills are definitely limited to the unpowered variety of rolling stock. I'll continue to watch your build with interest even though I'm unlikely to contribute to the technical advice! Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Hi Stephen,Looking good sir!Just wondering what couplings you will be using?Sorry if I've missed that in the thread....It's just that I built one of these milk tankers, a few years back at the time, I hadn't decided on couplings...since then, I opted for Sprat & Winkle, and hence, have had to cut some of the underframe gear away! ... All that hard work etc....I found the plastic rod bent better, after applying a coat of solvent, in the area you want to bend...Thinking back, I'm sure I used the Butanone which I bought to stick C&L point chairs.....Makes more sense to use brass rod though, anyway!Cheers again Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Hi Stephen, Looking good sir! Just wondering what couplings you will be using? Sorry if I've missed that in the thread.... It's just that I built one of these milk tankers, a few years back at the time, I hadn't decided on couplings... since then, I opted for Sprat & Winkle, and hence, have had to cut some of the underframe gear away! ... All that hard work etc.... I found the plastic rod bent better, after applying a coat of solvent, in the area you want to bend... Thinking back, I'm sure I used the Butanone which I bought to stick C&L point chairs..... Makes more sense to use brass rod though, anyway! Cheers again Marc Hi Marc I've used CPL 'Wagon/Coach' screw couplings as I'm still on 3 link/screw couplings. The CPL shackle fits the etched coupling hook provided by Slaters which is designed for the coupling slot rather than the 3-link couplings Slater put with the kit. I don't know why they don't provide screw link couplings with the kit. Thanks for the tip on bending plastic rod - I'd never thought of that! Will try that when I next need to bend some plastic rod. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Marc I've not tried you suggestion of coating plastic rod with butone or solvent but I think it would only soften the surface leaving the inner structure solid. It would still be liable to cracking and fracture which maybe the solvent would soften and then harden up when dried but as I said I haven't tried it yet. I could see this working with thin wall tube though. What I have tried is using my mini gas torch to soften the whole rod then bend it to the angle I want and apply a cold water quench to solidify it up. My torch is quite small and will let me apply heat in small precise areas should I want. Solvents and flames kaaaaa boooom so be careful with the naked flame as we all have solvents in our work rooms. I'll have a go tomorrow Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 For a bit of a break from the complexity of building the milk tanker, I’ve started to build the other part of the dairy and this will be connected to the white rendered ‘modern’ building by an overhead gangway. This dairy building represents an older industrial building and is red brick which will be weathered to blend in with the rest of the layout. Basic construction is 3mm foamboard with Slaters 7mm/ft brick sheet. This time I’m using Duncan Models white metal industrial windows rather than scratchbuild them although I’ve had to add lintels to the rectangular windows and brick surrounds to the round top windows. The basic foamboard shell is complete and I’ve glued the brick sheet. For this one, I’ve added brick embellishments for an added bit of interest. I’ve started to paint the brick (Burnt Sienna acrylic) and will then add the pointing. I’ve also got to add the windows, make the doors and then start on the roof. The roof will be constructed in the same way as the stone building, i.e. individually applied tiles, but will be a bit less decrepit than that building. I’ll post more progress soon. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 I am sure this will look just as good as your stone building. I do like your corbeling it adds a lot of character to the building. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 I am sure this will look just as good as your stone building. I do like your corbeling it adds a lot of character to the building. Thanks Peter. I'm glad you used the correct architectural term "corbeling" rather than my "embellishments". I couldn't think of the term when I posted! I did feel it needed something to break up the large expanse of brickwork and the lower corbel also incorporates the lintel for the doors. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcf Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Hi Stephen, Good to see progress on the scenic side. Any chance of a wider photo to see relationship of the new build with the existing? Are you using the overhead gangway as a view blocker to the fiddle yard? Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Yup more good stuff Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Yup more good stuff Stephen. Thanks Barnaby. It's coming on but slow progress! Have you done any more to your track plan since mid-January? Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi Stephen, Good to see progress on the scenic side. Any chance of a wider photo to see relationship of the new build with the existing? Are you using the overhead gangway as a view blocker to the fiddle yard? Rob Hi Rob Progress has been a bit slow to say the least as I've been meaning to complete that side of the layout for some time. I've now painted the inside of the building black (I don't intend to detail the interior or put lights in) and about to add the windows. The roof comes next. I had decided to put another part of the dairy on the other side of the track so, as you've said, I could add a covered gangway as a view blocker and disguise the entrance to the fiddle yard. The photo below is a wider view .......... ........ and the next one shows how I think it could look (excuse my clumsy skills in Photoshop!). I'm still not sure what to do about the bit next to the track. I can either extend the building as shown or continue the road under the gangway and put in a retaining wall parallel with the track. All suggestions welcome! Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Flynn Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi looking at corner how about a boiler house ,chimney and to use as a scenic break a pipe over a gantry then down to ground levelat one side. Sorry about basic drawing best I can do. Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Flynn Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Hi Again sorry for basic drawing how about a tree line against back scene fence/wall each side of a farmers single road and basic gated crossing. Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Flynn Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Again how about a building the other way going up to track with a water tank over the building . You could even put a chimney in the corner. Hugh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Thanks Hugh. Some interesting possibilities there and thanks for your efforts! I think your third solution (the building at right angles) is probably nearer to what I was thinking although your suggestion may be better as it would add a slightly different perspective and means I could still retain the overhead gangway as part of the dairy complex. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcf Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi Stephen If it was mine I think I would certainly go for the covered gangway and set the building it comes from slightly behind the new unit you are building and marginally lower so that the other building dominates. Then perhaps have the gangway supported on some nice rusty metal closer to the track with some scrubby vegetation round the base. Hope this makes sense, my computer skills don't run to visual aids! Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi Stephen,That new building looks great so farI'm sure you'll do a fab job finishing it.....One thing that struck me about this layout,is that I do like all the different roof lines + profiles....In a relatively small space, that seems to break the scene up,and make it appear larger than it actually is....I think Gordon Gravett mentions this in one of his booksIf you think about it, it does invite the eye to wander around a scene more,and here it breaks up the skyline very nicely...Great stuff, and good to meet up again, at the show todayCheers againMarc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hello Stephen Fraid not much done, plan now finished loose lay of track to plan.Then did some test lays of track/ballast using your Das method but using copydex 100% to hold the track then paint with ballast on top. Also tried a foam break under track using copydex 100% but thought this a waste of time.From these test I've decided to do this:> Lay track directly onto baseboard in 100% copydex Pour ballast onto track shake/brush into place Use copydex mix of 30% to 70% water with a splash of meths to break surface tension added through a pipette Paint up In areas of hard standing use Das smoothed flat for cement and press a brass tube suitably ovaled into it for cobbled areas. As 4 I've done a trial hole drilling through the copydex and if a pre "X" is cut with a knife where the hole is to be drilled this ensures it dosen't wind a line of latex up around the drill bit.. Thanks to Martin Wynne of Templot, 0-6-0 Hunslet and 85A models fame for that tip. http://www.templot.com/ Waiting for some rail joiners from C&L [exactoscale] both plastic and brass types so I can begin in ernest track laying.. Slow but progress Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussellP Posted April 1, 2013 Share Posted April 1, 2013 Warehouse with A35 B.jpg Austin A35 parked outside the warehouse to give you some idea of scale. Stephen Stephen, Fabulous work indeed. What's the provenance of the A35 please. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted April 1, 2013 Author Share Posted April 1, 2013 Stephen, Fabulous work indeed. What's the provenance of the A35 please. Thanks Russell Thanks. The A35 is a Corgi Vanguard 1:43 model from the 'Austin Centenary Set' which comprised the A35 and an A60 Cambridge. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted April 2, 2013 Author Share Posted April 2, 2013 I was able to spend some time over the weekend making the roof for the Old Dairy. I made this in the same way as the roof on the old warehouse – 7mm roof tile sheets, cut and shaped to provide some variation. The completed ‘inner’ roof panels on the left (facing each other) and one of the partially finished 'outer' panels on the right. The finished roof with ridge tiles and a central gutter added between the two inner panels. Painting, weathering and fitting next. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkie_pudd Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Catching back up on this and stunned by the amazing detailing work you put into it, that tiled roof has a lot of fiddley work time but the end result speaks for it self. Keep up the great work and future updates on this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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