Don Alexander Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Having had several instances of wobbly Gibson wheels and hit or miss quartering I decided to invest in a GW Models wheel press. Just at the time I had decided to invest, one came up on Ebay so I bid and won the item which arrived today. I have read a well illustrated topic explaining how to use it, all very straigtforward, I for the life of me cannot work out how to get right lead quartering. Whichever way i turn the jig or the chassis the quartering is left hand lead which is quite rare in the real world. Any help would be most appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 RH crankpin slot at 6 o`clock and left hand at 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Here's a picture of my GW quartering jig. You can just make out the positions of the slots for the crank pins, in my book the right side is leading the left whichever way you look at it. I'll be using it for the first time tonight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Alexander Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 RH crankpin slot at 6 o`clock and left hand at 3 When the RH slot is at 6 o'clock the left hand is at 9 as per tender's picture Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 When the RH slot is at 6 o'clock the left hand is at 9 as per tender's picture Er, imagine standing between the frames, the brown cardboard the jig is standing on is the floor. (See above picture) The crank pin slot on the right side is at 12 o'clock, turn around and the pin slot on the left side is at 9 o'clock. When the engine moves forward (up the page) the right side leads the left side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Tender Can you take another picture, this time from further away, showing the whole jig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Alexander Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Er, imagine standing between the frames, the brown cardboard the jig is standing on is the floor. (See above picture) The crank pin slot on the right side is at 12 o'clock, turn around and the pin slot on the left side is at 9 o'clock. When the engine moves forward (up the page) the right side leads the left side. Sorry I didn't have my glasses on when I looked at your image. I thought the RH crankpin slot was at 6 hidden by the axle pin.I must have a LH version as the LH block on mine has the crankpin slot at 3 o'clock. I guess I'll just have to use it as a wheel press. Thanks for your time anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 Sorry Don, I meant a picture of your jig - to check you've assembled it correctly! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Alexander Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 Sorry Don, I meant a picture of your jig - to check you've assembled it correctly! Here is picture. I bought it on Ebay so was already assembled but I can't see any way of modifying it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I don't have my one to hand for comparison, but yours does look different to the picture above from Tender. I do know that George Watts will modify items, so if you do have a left hand one, he may be able to alter it, for a fee. New ones don't cost much from George, as usual with Ebay, caveat emptor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Here's a picture of my GW jig. Looks like you have a leading left hand one. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechnut Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 You could drill and tap a new hole for the slotted grub screw, or take it to someone who can like a local engineering workshop. Even if it was a degree or two out it would`nt matter as all your wheelsets will come out the same. Bryn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Alexander Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 Thank you guys for your comments and suggestions. I have now done what I should have done in the first place and ordered a new one from George Watts. He could barely remember making a left hand lead jig and reckoned it must have been one of his first. If anyone is interested in buying one, the current price is £24.50 + £1.50 postage Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 It might be an idea to ask him if he'll produce one that can cater for LH, RH, and 120-degree....... It is, after all, based on where he puts the grub screw(s). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Alexander Posted November 1, 2012 Author Share Posted November 1, 2012 It might be an idea to ask him if he'll produce one that can cater for LH, RH, and 120-degree....... It is, after all, based on where he puts the grub screw(s). Yes that is one thing I thought about. If the axle hole had been put midway between the two rods then you could have reversed one of the blocks to enable LH or RH. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 It might be an idea to ask him if he'll produce one that can cater for LH, RH, and 120-degree....... It is, after all, based on where he puts the grub screw(s). But if he did that he would only sell one tool, but if he does three different tools he could possibly sell three of them. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 .....if he does three different tools he could possibly sell three of them. And, by the same token, you would need more space on your workbench to mislay them! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted November 3, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 3, 2012 This is going to be heresy but can you see both sides of the loco at the same time? No, thought not In which case who's going to know its cack handed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 This is going to be heresy but can you see both sides of the loco at the same time? Yes, anyone looking at it from the front or rear when it is moving will be able to see which rod is leading/trailing. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfwit Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 ...who's going to know its cack handed? The person that built it. Why get every other detail correct and not the leading rod? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Torper Posted November 3, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 3, 2012 If you want to sell it, look out for someone modelling the LNWR. It apparently used left hand lead, as did the Hull & Barnsley, LD&ECR, Furness, and a few others. Barclay and Kitson industrials tended to be left hand lead. (No, I didn't know this myself - it came from http://modelengineer...quartering.html ) DT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacerfan Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Thank you guys for your comments and suggestions. I have now done what I should have done in the first place and ordered a new one from George Watts. He could barely remember making a left hand lead jig and reckoned it must have been one of his first. If anyone is interested in buying one, the current price is £24.50 + £1.50 postage Hello, I wanted to purchase a GW Models wheel press for Tri-ang and Hornby Dublo models. I contacted Mr. Watts, but, he informed me that he has not made them for years and now only does them for Finescale. How long is it since any other Forum member bought one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Hello, I wanted to purchase a GW Models wheel press for Tri-ang and Hornby Dublo models. I contacted Mr. Watts, but, he informed me that he has not made them for years and now only does them for Finescale. How long is it since any other Forum member bought one? I think that I'd read that as he has not made them for Tri-ang and Horby Doublo models for a number of years. But he still makes them for fine-scale wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Bought one last year. It works. That enough? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacerfan Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I think that I'd read that as he has not made them for Tri-ang and Horby Doublo models for a number of years. But he still makes them for fine-scale wheels. Thanks for the replies. Does anyone know of any other company still making the jigs for Tri-ang and Hornby Dublo? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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