Wright writes.....

[Chimer]

I was thinking of trying a bargepole, but if even Coach thinks it's too difficult, I'll not bother .....

Edited September 24, 2015 by Chimer

[Focalplane]

Anyone contemplating soldering should heed Tony's words, but there is another source of inspiration at Connoisseur Models. Jim McGeown has several PDF downloads that explain his techniques and suggestions.

 

http://www.jimmcgeown.com

 

The one part I found most refreshing is his observation that the "experts" seem to produce immaculate joins which were anything but until they did all the scraping and cleaning up with a craft knife and fiberglass pen.

 

I would add that the choice of flux is also important as is keeping the soldering iron tip in good condition. Never leave the soldering iron on unattended for long periods, it will deteriorate very quickly.

 

And give your model a bath with CIF after every session. And that also applies to some attendees at Warley!

[Focalplane]

I forgot to add one tip I learned when living in the USA. Fine steel wool is very useful for polishing white metal, pewter, mazak (ugh!) and soldered brass. Do this before adding any fine details.

[Tony Wright]

I fall out of bed and start soldering and its often the last thing I am doing before sitting down at 9pm to watch a recorded cowboy movie. But first and foremost I am a painter and finish is my prime concern, therefore I would not touch a whitemetal kit with a bargepole.

I agree that it's more difficult to get the 'perfect' (paint) finish onto a white metal surface than, say, brass/nickel silver or plastic, but if the white metal is of good quality and well-cast, then a decent paint finish should be possible; as long as it's been well-prepared. By that I mean adopting the tips offered by several previous posters. Of course it depends on the painter and his/her abilities. As I've said many times, I've been fortunate to have had the services of Ian Rathbone to paint many of my white metal locos (and the sheet metal ones as well). I hope the following pictures show that it is possible (at least in my view) to get a good finish on white metal. 

 

 

 

 

These are three DJH A1s I built which Ian painted. Granted, the cabs and tenders are etched brass, but the surface finish on the smokeboxes/boiler/firebox is reasonable in my view. What I might add is that (and this is my opinion) these are far 'superior' to an RTR equivalent, with its perfect plastic boiler. I've qualified 'superior' because I don't wish to be accused of loco-building snobbery. Obviously, Ian's painting is far more subtle than the 'wasp-like' effect one gets with some RTR lining, but the haulage capacity of these is far superior because of their inherent weight. 

 

 

Really close inspection will reveal some surface imperfections on this SE Finecast W1 I made, which Ian painted. The tender, which is white metal, came out very smoothly though - any little specks are dust. 

 

 

 

Both these V2s started out as Nu-Cast kits (though I made a sheet metal cab and a sheet-metal footplate for the top one). Ian painted both beautifully, and the finish is acceptable despite their being mainly white metal. 

 

 

And an old Wills A4 I made, on a scratch-built chassis, once more painted beautifully by Ian Rathbone. All of the above are 'layout locos' designed to be viewed from a few feet away rather than at 'sniffing' distance. What I would say, despite its prodigious haulage capacity, is its overall shape is inferior to the latest Hornby RTR one, though at least its slidebars are at a more-correct angle.

 

 

 

I made and painted this DJH ex-Crosti 2-10-0. I thought it a splendid kit, beautifully cast and easy to build. No need now, though; how the hobby marches on!

 

 

I also made and painted this SE Finecast K3. Close inspection will reveal why I prefer to farm out painting (particularly lining) to those who really know what they're doing. However, I think the overall finish is acceptable. Tony Geary dusted-over the light weathering.

 

 

And a getting-on-for-forty year old, ECJM L1, again made and painted by me. Once more, my close-up photography has highlighted the over-scale lining (Tom Foster is to weather it for me to disguise it to some extent). Naturally, in the presence of Hornby's RTR L1, this is a bit rough, though I've had it all those years. 

 

I accept that white metal has its limitations, but I'm sure I've photographed some white metal locos you painted, Larry. Did you not paint for Norman Wissenden at some point? If not, my apologies, though I'm sure your perfect signature was present underneath. 

Edited September 24, 2015 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

 

Just a further point on weathering. In my view it can bring an RTR model to life, as I hope this shot of two Hornby L1s shows. I did the dry-brush weathering and John Houlden dusted over the top-coat with his air brush. 

[St Enodoc]

I agree that it's more difficult to get the 'perfect' (paint) finish onto a white metal surface than, say, brass/nickel silver or plastic, but if the white metal is of good quality and well-cast, then a decent paint finish should be possible; as long as it's been well-prepared. By that I mean adopting the tips offered by several previous posters. Of course it depends on the painter and his/her abilities. As I've said many times, I've been fortunate to have had the services of Ian Rathbone to paint many of my white metal locos (and the sheet metal ones as well). I hope the following pictures show that it is possible (at least in my view) to get a good finish on white metal. 

 

A1 60128 DJH.jpg

 

A1 60136 DJH.jpg

 

08 60114 34 rear.jpg

 

These are three DJH A1s I built which Ian painted. Granted, the cabs and tenders are etched brass, but the surface finish on the smokeboxes/boiler/firebox is reasonable in my view. What I might add is that (and this is my opinion) these are far 'superior' to an RTR equivalent, with its perfect plastic boiler. I've qualified 'superior' because I don't wish to be accused of loco-building snobbery. Obviously, Ian's painting is far more subtle than the 'wasp-like' effect one gets with some RTR lining, but the haulage capacity of these is far superior because of their inherent weight. 

 

60700 34 rear.jpg

 

Really close inspection will reveal some surface imperfections on this SE Finecast W1 I made, which Ian painted. The tender, which is white metal, came out very smoothly though - any little specks are dust. 

 

60847 close-up darker.jpg

 

V2 05.jpg

 

Both these V2s started out as Nu-Cast kits (though I made a sheet metal cab and a sheet-metal cab for the top one). Ian painted both beautifully, and the finish is acceptable despite their being mainly white metal. 

 

Wills A4 on Car Carrier.jpg

 

And an old Wills A4 I made, on a scratch-built chassis, once more painted beautifully by Ian Rathbone. All of the above are 'layout locos' designed to be viewed from a few feet away rather than at 'sniffing' distance. What I would say, despite its prodigious haulage capacity, is its overall shape is inferior to the latest Hornby RTR one, though at least its slidebars are at a more-correct angle.

 

92021 ex-Crosti on Up fitted freight.jpg

 

I made and painted this DJH ex-Crosti 2-10-0. I thought it a splendid kit, beautifully cast and easy to build. No need now, though; how the hobby marches on!

 

K3.jpg

 

I also made and painted this SE Finecast K3. Close inspection will reveal why I prefer to farm out painting (particularly lining) to those who really know what they're doing. However, I think the overall finish is acceptable. Tony Geary dusted-over the light weathering.

 

L1.jpg

 

And a getting-on-for-forty year old, ECJM L1, again made and painted by me. Once more, my close-up photography has highlighted the over-scale lining (Tom Foster is to weather it for me to disguise it to some extent). Naturally, in the presence of Hornby's RTR L1, this is a bit rough, though I've had it all those years. 

 

I accept that white metal has its limitations, but I'm sure I've photographed some white metal locos you painted, Larry. Did you not paint for Norman Wissenden at some point? If not, my apologies, though I'm sure your perfect signature was present underneath. 

I did enjoy seeing the car carrier on Stoke again Tony. Takes me back to the Brighton Centre in 1998 I think it was...

[coachmann]

Norman Wisenden was one of my regulars as well as being a personal friend from way back. I differed from most painters in choosing early on to work for traders and commercial builders than individuals. The pacific locos Tony illustrates are probably DJH or some caster with a fine record, but there were also plenty of horrors out there at one time. and no amount of time-wasting preparation would hide the casting flaws and pitting.

[Mallard60022]

I did enjoy seeing the car carrier on Stoke again Tony. Takes me back to the Brighton Centre in 1998 I think it was...

That's where I first saw SS; small world is it not? 17 years.....oh nooooooo; in fact it might have been a little earlier. 1996 maybe?

Phil

[micklner]

 

Never had a problem getting a decent finish on whitemetal or any other surface. All it needs is for it be smooth before adding any detail parts. If in doubt a light coat of primer will show every dig scratch etc.

 

This one shown below is a mix of whitemetal, nickel silver,plastic  and resin.

 

Edited September 24, 2015 by micklner

[Tony Wright]

I did enjoy seeing the car carrier on Stoke again Tony. Takes me back to the Brighton Centre in 1998 I think it was...

Thanks John,

 

Was it that long ago? It takes me back to how the Wolverhampton gang who built Stoke approached things (I'm sure I've mentioned this before). I doubt if we'd have built it today, not because I don't think it would 'work' almost 20 years after construction began, but because the mainstream modelling picture has altered so much. The point is, we all wanted to 'build' just about everything; is there something fundamental in all this? Obviously, most building was out of necessity because we considered (and were not alone) that the contemporary RTR stuff was a bit naff (remember, Stoke Summit's construction pre-dated Bachmann's Mk.1s). So, six (later seven shortly after when Dave Lewis joined us) of us sat down, drew up a list of the 30+ trains (of the right consist) we needed and just got on with it. Dave's joining allowed us to generate the kits we needed; 'Elizabethan' Thompsons, plus more of the pressure-ventilated types, articulated sets and the car-carriers you mention, as well as Royal Mail cars. Other Thompsons came via Comet, as did the Gresleys and Mk.1s, supplemented by Dave's kits. Ex-LMS cars came from Comet, and the freight stock from just about every kit maker, plastic and etched. Locos were all built from kits or scratch. As I say, we just did it. In fairness most of the scratch-built locos I made for it have long gone - A1/1, A2/2, A2/3, K1, etc - to be replaced by superior kit-built locos. Of course, RTR would suffice now, but would it have the same 'appeal'?

 

The layout was of its time, successful (I think) in its exhibition outings. I'm glad we did it, because today, or at least it seems to me, many OO layouts in the press, exhibitions and on the net are populated by RTR locos and stock. Good? Yes, but we've had this discussion before.  

Edited September 24, 2015 by Tony Wright

[Focalplane]

One of these days my wife and I are going to fulfill an invitation to visit England's oldest pewter manufacturer, A E Williams, in Digbeth, Birmingham.  I am looking forward to this opportunity because I have lots of questions to ask of them.  My ancestors were in the brass founding business, though my father started to move out of that foul industry by acquiring a B.Sc. in Metallurgy after WWI and starting a metal finishing company in the Jewellery Quarter in 1922.  I first came across pewter in Singapore, where Malaysian tin products were everywhere as Selangor Pewter.  Pewter, as a base alloy, can be silver plated, etc. but this requires skill and that is what I really don't understand at this point.

 

Preparing metals for painting is not a dissimilar problem.  It is the Halfords' etch primer that seems to be favored by many modelers these days, so a visit to Halfords head office might also be of interest (another Birmingham company but now relocated to Redditch) to understand what makes their etch primer so special to us modelers.  As the recent posts suggest, it is not the surface that is to be painted that is the problem, but how that surface is prepared.

 

I have a white metal casting of a Stanier firebox that is so badly cast and pitted that it will require a lot of filler and work (I won't name the company so please don't ask!).  But other white metal castings are, quite simply, beyond reproach.  Pewter castings have an excellent reputation and I do have to wonder why they have not gained wider acceptance - any answers to that?

[Focalplane]

On a bit of a roll, here, so apologies to all who are thinking "Oh no, not him again!"

 

I mentioned above the technique of using fine steel wool on brass/nickel silver etched bodies.  So I thought I would do a near final clean up of my Connoisseur Jinty body and submit a couple of photos.  The result looks better in black and white for some reason, so here goes:

 

 

 

Each run at this leaves fewer blemishes but the remaining problems simply cry out for being attended to.  It's a bit like picking up the largest crumbs from the table only to realize that the next largest crumbs are now the largest and needing just as much attention.  The law of diminishing returns will ultimately apply.

 

Only when this level of acceptance is reached will I consider adding any white metal details.  And then the process will start all over again but with a much lighter hand around those delicate parts.

[grob1234]

Tony et al, thank you so much for the advice and tips. That's what is great about this forum, people willing to help other modellers.

 

The J6 from London Road looks lovely, maybe it would be good as my second model. 

 

I'm beginning to think what I want is a J69, from London Road, with Gibson wheels, a mashima motor and high level gear box. This would make a nice xmas present from my other half, and she will be delighted to see me spend more time on the hobby....

 

A brief search shows that choosing a gear box may be slightly tricky, I will have to do more research and report back. The main problem is that I want to order everything in one go, because I live abroad, postage is tricky, and so I can't order the kit and then see what motor/gearbox combo I want to go with it. Anyhow, I shall do some research, and post my thoughts for your perusal!

 

Printed out in large bold font, attached to train shed wall.  

 

Eventually will be shamed into just getting on with soldering.  Tried it a few times, so far - terrible.  

 

If you like I can post a few basic tips which really helped me with my soldering? I'm no expert by any stretch, so probably not qualified to advise, but my soldering has come on leaps and bounds of late. 

[micklner]

Tony et al, thank you so much for the advice and tips. That's what is great about this forum, people willing to help other modellers.

 

The J6 from London Road looks lovely, maybe it would be good as my second model. 

 

I'm beginning to think what I want is a J69, from London Road, with Gibson wheels, a mashima motor and high level gear box. This would make a nice xmas present from my other half, and she will be delighted to see me spend more time on the hobby....

 

A brief search shows that choosing a gear box may be slightly tricky, I will have to do more research and report back. The main problem is that I want to order everything in one go, because I live abroad, postage is tricky, and so I can't order the kit and then see what motor/gearbox combo I want to go with it. Anyhow, I shall do some research, and post my thoughts for your perusal!

 

 

If you like I can post a few basic tips which really helped me with my soldering? I'm no expert by any stretch, so probably not qualified to advise, but my soldering has come on leaps and bounds of late. 

Much easier with Markit wheels. You will need to quarter Gibson wheels.

[grob1234]

Much easier with Markit wheels. You will need to quarter Gibson wheels.

 

Noted - but sadly I'm unable to find LNER 4' 15 spoke wheels in their catalogue. 

Edited September 25, 2015 by grob1234

[gr.king]

In the end they are not that difficult to quarter, and you don't need ANY of the sophisticated and expensive gadgets advocated by some to ensure true quartering. Set up each pair of wheels directly back to back, by eye, before they go on the axles, and mark the treads with a fine permanent marker in matching positions. It is subsequently easy enough to check that the index marks on the treads are aligned squarely across the chassis, plus a further visual check through the spokes from one side (though less reliable than having the wheels in back-to-back contact). This always suffices when I do the job. Markits wheels do however seem to offer more consistency in terms of true concentricity, they won't slip on the axles, and they do give more freedom of approach to the construction of the chassis as they can go on and off the axles several times without becoming a loose fit or suffering any distortion of the central hole - which is a risk if you are heavy handed with Gibsons.

[Tony Wright]

Tony et al, thank you so much for the advice and tips. That's what is great about this forum, people willing to help other modellers.

 

The J6 from London Road looks lovely, maybe it would be good as my second model. 

 

I'm beginning to think what I want is a J69, from London Road, with Gibson wheels, a mashima motor and high level gear box. This would make a nice xmas present from my other half, and she will be delighted to see me spend more time on the hobby....

 

A brief search shows that choosing a gear box may be slightly tricky, I will have to do more research and report back. The main problem is that I want to order everything in one go, because I live abroad, postage is tricky, and so I can't order the kit and then see what motor/gearbox combo I want to go with it. Anyhow, I shall do some research, and post my thoughts for your perusal!

 

 

If you like I can post a few basic tips which really helped me with my soldering? I'm no expert by any stretch, so probably not qualified to advise, but my soldering has come on leaps and bounds of late. 

Tom,

 

The London Road J69 is an excellent choice.

 

Gibson wheels, though? For a first-time loco-kit?

 

In case anyone should think I'm hostile to friction-fit wheels, I can only speak from my own experiences. I fitted a set of beautiful-looking drivers to a Coopercraft B12/3 (I've since leaned that there are three out there of these kits which have been built; mine and two others). What a job - three of the tyres came off, none was truly concentric and after some years of use (not decades) one of the wheels shifted on its axle. The latter point is particularly relevant for those with big layouts with locos hauling big trains. I 'fixed' my B12, but now it nods along too much for my liking. I'll show it to anyone who visits Little Bytham.

 

The 'phenomenon' of tyres coming off the wheels is not confined to drivers - bit by bit I'm replacing all the tyres-falling-off wheels fitted to my freight stock with good, old-fashioned Jackson/Romford axles. These are truly-concentric and don't come apart.

 

I know that the manufacturing processes have improved and the tyres are 'less likely to fall off', which is a good thing. But the drivers shifting on their axles? At a recent seminar I part-conducted, a chap had a set of friction-fit wheels for (would you believe, a J69). He was having trouble quartering them using a jig (I just do things by looking through the spokes), and it required much adjustment (of each wheel on its axle). So much so that two of the drivers became too loose on their axles. The whole lot was abandoned in frustration, and he ordered a set of Markits drivers as substitutes. It doesn't matter how many loco chassis I make, I always have to take the drivers (or one or two of them) off a couple of times, just to make sure everything is perfectly sweet, especially on the driven axle. I will not tolerate tight spots, binding or gear noise, so eradicate anything like that at source. It's because of that that I always paint the frames before fitting any drivers. I've seen chassis made (and working perfectly) where the wheels will have to come off to paint the frames. If the drivers are friction-fit, then what's the best you can hope for? It's unlikely it'll run as perfectly as it did, especially with friction-fit wheels! I was told that a well-known modeller advocated spray-painting the whole chassis whist under power! Can this be true? 

 

I 'know' that the perceived wisdom with regard to fitting any friction-fit wheels is to gently de-burr the very end of the axle with some very fine wet and dry. And, that for true driver security a pin should be driven at an angle through the wheel's boss into the axle. What a fag. Fit Romford Markits in my view - quartering is dead easy, the tyres never come loose, the drivers can be taken off time after time without loss of function and they're less likely to derail on less-than-perfect track. I agree, they are more expensive, but since when does high-quality come cheap?

 

I should qualify my views above (and below) by stating that I have no connection with any firm and that they are my personal opinions based on my experience. I've seen locos and stock fitted with friction-fit wheels which perform adequately, but I've just completed a pair of Klondikes - one in EM and one in OO. Both have RomfordMarkits drivers and the OO one has Romford Markits throughout. Guess which's tender rides more smoothly with no wobble or bobbing up and down. 

 

 

 

Here's a SE Finecast J69 I built some little time ago for Grantham. I used a Branchlines single-stage motor mount and a big, fat Mashima can. It'll pull anything you choose to put behind it but it's a trifle noisy (hypocrisy!). It also protrudes into the cab. A crew disguises this, but it caused a bit of a fuss some little time ago. Nobody noticed the motor when it ran at Grantham and it was as quiet as a mouse.

 

 

 

One very simple motor/gear mount I favour is that produced by SE Finecast. Simplicity itself to assemble, it's extremely powerful (the story has been well told on Grantham). It fits perfectly into a C12.

 

 

 

As it does into a Millholme 2P

 

 

Comet produces a range of gearboxes, one of which will also fit a 2P. This Comet set of frames replaces the hideous tender-drive previously underneath a Palitoy/Airfix 2P

 

 

The SE Finecast gear mount can also accommodate Mashima open-framed motors, such as this fitted into another C12. This is a 15 year old's work, built under supervision from me. 

 

 

Comet also does a single-stage motor mount; neat enough to be under-slung in this Dean Goods replacement chassis from Comet. 

 

 

When you contemplate making something bigger, Markits does a range of suitable gear boxes (the firm makes smaller ones, too). The huge advantage of this type (providing it's going into a fat boiler) is that the adjustment screws are to the side and there's no need to dismantle the thing to adjust the mesh.

The horrid, split-chassis for a Bachmann V2 is what it and the Comet frames replaced. No need now, though, with Bachmann's more recent chassis. 

 

More to follow..................

Edited September 25, 2015 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

Following on from my previous post, my most-preferred drive is that provided by DJH. A variety of pre-assembled motor/gearboxes are available (all the ones in the previous post had to be made), and this feature has to be paid for - thus they're over £50.00. In case anyone thinks that's a bit steep, what you get is perfect performance and ease of installation. They're quieter than Portescaps and have great power. 

 

Most of the following are the GB2 type, more suitable for 'smaller' prototypes. That said, I installed one in a V2 for Gilbert Barnatt and it'll pull anything on his Peterborough North. I've just fitted one into another J69 I've just built - silky-smooth, quiet performance, as I hope more recent visitors will testify to.

 

 

 

Perfect in a replacement 4F chassis

 

 

Because this Comet gearbox/Mashima combination ran just a tiny bit sweeter one way than the other, I turned it round so to speak (see later). It sits in its Comet frames underneath an old Bachmann B1 body (some person actually bought the original split-chassis - for £5.00; I felt ashamed, though he did see it running!)

 

 

And the DJH 'box in an old Airfix N2. I assume the latest Hornby N2 runs much better than the Airfix original? 

 

 

I mentioned the pair of Klondikes in a previous post. Though these motor gearboxes are very sweet, almost invariably (as with any gearbox) they run just that tiny bit sweeter one way than the other (the law of sod dictates that this is usually in reverse for a Pacific). So, find out which is better, and configure it to suit. I hope viewers who saw the OO Klondike running at Pickering (on Salmon Pastures - thanks guys) and at Grantham on Grantham liked its smooth-running. 

 

I've not used many High-Level gearboxes, but my experience concludes that they're very good. However, I've never got on with the sort that has the final gear attached by Loctite (or similar). I much prefer a grub screw.

 

Finally, as for quiet running, whenever you see a J3 on Peterborough North, it's invariably in reverse. No matter how hard I tried with its London Road gear mount (provided as part of a review), it always came out quieter in reverse. 

 

I hope all this helps..................

Edited September 25, 2015 by Tony Wright

[45609]

Tony,

 

As you said above it is worth noting that the quality of Gibson wheels is much improved since Alan was in charge.  I've not had a single loose or wobbly tyre since Colin Seymour took over and, as I understand, introduced much better process control on the moulding of the wheel centres.

 

Agreed that quartering is more difficult and locking on the axle is still less secure than the Markits/Romford method.  I recall that Colin did produced some development parts with square holes to fit Markits axles but I guess there wasn't sufficient demand to put them into production.  I use a very similar process to Graeme for quartering and it works a treat.  Sighting through spokes is surprisingly effective.  As for locking, I'm a machinist and have the facilities to do this to my wheels.

 

 

A slot is milled into the axle.  Once quartering is set and running satisfactory the other half of the hole is drilled in the wheel boss. A wire pin is then inserted, snipped off and filed flush.  This method means that if, in extremis, the wheel has to come off the axle for any reason the wheel itself is not destroyed and the quartering can be reset exactly as before.

 

Cheers....Morgan

Edited September 25, 2015 by mlgilbert30

[St Enodoc]

That's where I first saw SS; small world is it not? 17 years.....oh nooooooo; in fact it might have been a little earlier. 1996 maybe?

Phil

Phil, the time I'm thinking of was definitely '98. I'd flown back overnight from a business trip to Hong Kong and pretty much went straight to the Brighton Centre instead of home to Eastbourne. Stoke was in one of the small annexe rooms, far from the madding crowd, and Tony and the team were gracious enough to let me have a play.

[Tony Wright]

Noted - but sadly I'm unable to find LNER 4' 15 spoke wheels in their catalogue. 

Tom,

 

That being the case, choose a J69 with fewer-spoke wheels (the passenger types). There were probably more of them. Markits make this sort.

[St Enodoc]

Following on from my previous post, my most-preferred drive is that provided by DJH. A variety of pre-assembled motor/gearboxes are available (all the ones in the previous post had to be made), and this feature has to be paid for - thus they're over £50.00. In case anyone thinks that's a bit steep, what you get is perfect performance and ease of installation. They're quieter than Portescaps and have great power. 

 

Most of the following are the GB2 type, more suitable for 'smaller' prototypes. That said, I installed one in a V2 for Gilbert Barnatt and it'll pull anything on his Peterborough North. I've just fitted one into another J69 I've just built - silky-smooth, quiet performance, as I hope more recent visitors will testify to.

 

4F 01.jpg

 

Perfect in a replacement 4F chassis

 

B1 02.jpg

 

Because this Comet gearbox/Mashima combination ran just a tiny bit sweeter one way than the other, I turned it round so to speak (see later). It sits in its Comet frames underneath an old Bachmann B1 body (some person actually bought the original split-chassis - for £5.00; I felt ashamed, though he did see it running!)

 

N2 09.jpg

 

And the DJH 'box in an old Airfix N2. I assume the latest Hornby N2 runs much better than the Airfix original? 

 

DJH Klondike 02.jpg

 

I mentioned the pair of Klondikes in a previous post. Though these motor gearboxes are very sweet, almost invariably (as with any gearbox) they run just that tiny bit sweeter one way than the other (the law of sod dictates that this is usually in reverse for a Pacific). So, find out which is better, and configure it to suit. I hope viewers who saw the OO Klondike running at Pickering (on Salmon Pastures - thanks guys) and at Grantham on Grantham liked its smooth-running. 

 

I've not used many High-Level gearboxes, but my experience concludes that they're very good. However, I've never got on with the sort that has the final gear attached by Loctite (or similar). I much prefer a grub screw.

 

Finally, as for quiet running, whenever you see a J3 on Peterborough North, it's invariably in reverse. No matter how hard I tried with its London Road gear mount (provided as part of a review), it always came out quieter in reverse. 

 

I hope all this helps..................

I liked the ready-assembled Mashima/gearbox combos that Alan Bunn (West Coast Kit Centre) used to bundle in with cast loco kits - and turned Romford drivers to boot. A great one-stop shop.

[Buhar]

 

It's the on-off performance with Gibson's wheels that I struggle with, especially when trying to sort out spacers. I can't see a way round the vagaries of frame width, b2b, curves and bits dangling below the footplate except trial and adjustment and these wheels are not forgiving of repeated removal.

Edited September 25, 2015 by Buhar

[Mallard60022]

I forgot to add one tip I learned when living in the USA. Fine steel wool is very useful for polishing white metal, pewter, mazak (ugh!) and soldered brass. Do this before adding any fine details.

I had a small wire brush many years ago that was provided for cleaning up Suede shoes (remember those, geography teachers' favourites I'm told). I have built a few kits with WM boiler and parts and tender body. This brush was excellent for polishing up the WM boiler/firebox/smokebox; not so sure about the tenders as one had to be careful if there were 'rivets'. Haven't seen that brush for many years; wonder where it went?

Phil

Edited September 25, 2015 by Mallard60022

[Pebbles]

If I recall the LRM J69 represents one of the last 20 (GER Designation S56). Unlike the bulk of the J69 class they were build with the 1200 gal tanks their cab sides being flush with these tanks, in this respect they are like J68s without the cab side windows. As they were built as "passenger engines" S56s would have been originally shod with 10 spoke wheels. No doubt in later life they could have received 15 spoke wheels. Most of the remaining engines of the J69 class were re-builds and where the tank capacity had been increased from 1000 gal to 1200 gal this is evident by the tanks being set out proud of the cab side. The SEF kit whilst old in conception was upgraded many years ago and is a good starting point for the re-builds.