Anne and me, from the D.As. kit in 7mm.

[dibateg]

Where did you source the roller bearings OzzyO?

[Horsetan]

Where did you source the roller bearings OzzyO?

Hobby Holidays? Or SMT Bearings?

[ozzyo]

Hello dibateg, all,

 

the roller bearings came from Technobots. co.uk about a £1.00 each 10mm o/d and 5mm i/d, lots of interesting stuff on the site.

 

After getting the last of the etched parts soldered onto the tender I decided to give it a quick grit-blast. One thing that a lot of kit designers seem to have problems with is the fire-iron tunnel, that was the case here (or it could be my build of it), I'll sort out the gap at the back later,

 

From the back, I did look at using cast lamp-irons for this but did not have any of the correct type for the footplate edge so I used the etched ones (in this position they should not get knocked about). The top centre one will be a casting (still to be fitted) as I did not like the look of the etched one (hope it doesn't stand out too much),

 

The tender front, this was where I lost the plot. I'd written on the instruction drawings to replace the footplate support so I removed the one that was in place (I couldn't get the back part off), so this is what it looked like. After looking at it for a while I then realised that I'd just replaced the replacement, more on that later (a small problem with D.A. using the same No. for both parts and me haveing replaced the part in August last year). But I came up with a plan (more on that later),

 

On most Stanier tender they have two strengthening beams that run between the two side frames These work well on the full size tenders and do their job well, but on most models we want to get the inner frames out at some time. So I nicked an idea off Jazz for this,

 

A close up of the front one this has the U shape going upwards. For this I used a length of 1mm square brass that fits in the channel to locate it and then soldered a length of 0.5mm of brass wire below it to stop it falling out. I'll get a better photo later on,

 

The next job is to get the rest of the brass casting soldered on, then another clean up and fit the white metal castings in place then back onto the frames. It's not the way I normally do things but it looks like it may work OK on this tender.

 

OzzyO.

 

Edit for PS. if you have a look at post #28 it has a link to Technobots web site.

[david.hill64]

Interesting idea for locating the cross members. On my 7mm B1 kit I used rivets pushed in from the outside, replacing the punched ones. These are an interference fit into the white metal cross members. Jazz's idea is better as I will have to repair the paintwork if ever the rivets are pulled out.

[JeffP]

Hi Jeff,

 

Are you going to the Halifax/Cleckheaton show at the end of May ?

Sadly, no. The only one I usually get to is Telford.

When I retired from teaching, the wife decided to put our lump sum into a small french property, so, since she is still in teaching, we now go on school holidays in order to work on it...and school holidays are when the major shows are.

 

I might get to one or two this Easter since it's very late, but usually, Telford is it.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

this is going to be a long post so get a brew or something stronger.

The first job was to replace the front footplate that I had taken off, for this I used the one with the cut-outs for the handbrake and scoop coves this saved me having to get these to fit between the footplate and the base of the handles,

 

The axle box's after grit-blasting on the left,

 

All of the bits on the tender rear apart from the coupling. This will be fitted after painting,

 

Getting the bodies ready for the intermediate buffers. I normally use Slater's for these but had non in stock so I used some Alan Gibson ones,

 

and in place at the front end after a quick grit-blast,

 

From the inside,

 

The rest of the tender body after a grit-blast. I have noticed that one of the overlays looks a bit loose, so I'll have to sort that out,

 

Back to the inner frames.

The first job was to mark out what I was going to cut off and the centre line for the brake cross shaft,

 

and then it was gone,

 

The replacement brake cross shaft bearing plate in place. You will also notice that I've added two cut-outs to  the top of the frames, these are to clear the intermediate buffers,

 

Starting work on the scoop, in the down position,

 

and up,

 

In position in the frames, when your fitting it in place don't forget to put the rear cross brace in place as well,

 

Starting work on the brakes, this is the etch that you get with the kit. I decided to replace these with some casting from Ragstone models,

 

This is the jig (two bits of wood drilled at 7'6" centres) that I use for setting up the brake linkage, the down side with the Ragstone castings is that the cross beams are round section. I think that I can live with that!

 

and out of the jig,

 

Brakes and cross beams in place on the inner frames,

 

All of the brake gear place along with the compensation unit,

 

The front of the inner frames. The four lengths of brass are for the water, steam heat and vac. pipes to fit on to,

 

From the rear showing the steam brake cylinder,

 

That should be it for the tender, apart from cleaning and primer.

 

Now to start on the bit we all want to do first the engine (I don't believe it's a loco until it's complete).  

The first job is the pony truck, or more correctly the inside bearing box. I'm again going to use roller bearings on this, these ones I'm going to get from RC bearings LTD. 7mm O/D 4mm I/S 2.5mm thick. I'm also going to use the same bearings on the bogie.

 

The outer frames in the flat, with the rivets formed,

 

The parts for the front A frame laid out. You will notice that the brass side frames have the tabs etched at the wrong end. Not a big problem just file them off,

 

The basic pony truck assembled, just the axleboxs and wheels to fit. The kit is designed to have two screws coming up from underneath, I was not keen on this for two reasons, how it could look and if the screws came loose they would drop into the four foot, so I decided to fit the inside with three 10BA screws from the inside (it also means that I cant fit it the wrong way around). When it was in the flat I showed three washers for the pivot but only two will fit, unless one is to be fitted on the top face?

 

The bogie side frames in the flat, I have some ideas for this (more on this later),

 

This is the bogie centre bolster that I'm going to use, it will add a nice bit of weight as well,

 

After reading Nick Dunhill's thread on building three Princesses on Western Thunder, I had to agree that the frames looked a bit on the thin side (Nick scratch built three new ones) I decided to add some strips of brass to beef up the width of the side frames, this should make them look a bit better,

 

With the centre bolster in place. About the only change that I've made to it is to open out the centre slot to 5mm,

 

 

OzzyO.

[Pete Harvey]

Where the Hell is the join in the bearing box?

 

As it looks like it's one piece.

[ozzyo]

Where the Hell is the join in the bearing box?

 

As it looks like it's one piece.

 

Bottom right hand corner I think! In this photo.

 

 

Top centre in this one I think!

 

OzzyO.

[Pete Harvey]

Nice Work OzzyO

[steve fay]

Very nice mate, bit to early for something stronger though , unless your talking about

a red bull!!!

[Pete Harvey]

When have you ever know OzzyO to take the bull by the horns Steve.

[JeffP]

Excellent work.

 

If you are using roller bearings of 4mm id, what will you do with the axles? aren't they 4.75mm dia?

[ozzyo]

Excellent work.

 

If you are using roller bearings of 4mm id, what will you do with the axles? aren't they 4.75mm dia?

 

Hello JeffP,

 

I'm using 3.968 mm axles for the carrying axles. So with a bit of bearing fit on them just right.

 

OzzyO.

[JeffP]

So not Slaters wheels then? Or special axles like the Finney kits require?

[ozzyo]

So not Slaters wheels then? Or special axles like the Finney kits require?

 

Hello JeffP,

 

if you want to change 3/16" into metric I thought I'd convert 5/32" into metric for you! Yes I'm using Slater's wheels just the ones with M/F suffix.

 

OzzyO.

[JeffP]

Rats........I thought it was that, but failed to do the maths before you.

 

Thanks Ozzy.

[Pete Harvey]

The Axles should be a near interference fit in the roller bearings any way so the bearings work properly, so even turning over sized axles down to suite the bearings would not be a bad thing if OzzyO were using over sized axles, but as usual he has thought ahead of that.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

just a quick update to follow on from today's post.

I got some cast springs to be used on this bogie, but looking at them I think that they are a bit on the big side and the spring hangers don't have a rake to them, so I added 1.5mm of plasticard to the back of the etched ones to fill them out a bit,

 

The front and rear equalising beams,

 

In place on the bogie,

 

Just a bit of filling in to do around the life guards then bending them to shape and the jobs done.

 

The pony truck with the axleboxs and springs in place. I've also metal blacken the inner bearing box,

 

The replacement axle-box cover, I'm not looking forward to filling off the ones that are cast in place now. Looks like I've got a bit of straightening to do on the spring hanger, 

 

OzzyO.

[Grasshopper John]

Love it when you get your Mojo back Ozzy, your almost as quick as Ken

[Pete Harvey]

But with more detail

[JeffP]

Are the front bogie equalising beams functional?

[3 link]

Hello Matey,

 

Reference the inner bearing box, how did you keep the bearing holes central when you opened them out for the bearings, did you use a broach or a fancy reamer ?

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

JeffP, the equalising beams are dummy, that's why I've got round holes in the bogie side frames.

 

Martyn, the holes for the bearings were etched just under 7mm so all I used was a tapered reamer,

 

Back onto the build, the first job this morning was to apply some black etch primer to all the parts. After this had dried, it was time to start putting in the roller bearings,

 

Then fit the wheels, both the bearings and the axles were fastened in place using Loctite,

 

From the inside,

 

A close up showing the compensation unit,

 

Four of the new bearings. 7mm O/D, 4mm I/D with a 8.2mm flange. Ordered Mon. arrived Tues. good going. When I do something like this again I think that I'll use 8mm O/D as this should give me a bit more metal on the inner ring. As using Loctite so close to the rollers is a bit twitchy,

 

The bearing box for the pony truck with the bearings in place,

 

The new outer bearing covers fitted and the pony truck painted with black etch primer,

 

Showing the completed truck from above,

 

The bogie painted with yes you got it black etch primer, for masking off the bearing holes I use them self-adhesive dots that you can get from Ryman's etc.

 

With the wheels in place from below, and from the side,

 

Now to the bit we all look forward to the engine frames. Now these frames are BIG, bl00dy Big. Over a foot long!

 

I bought some cast springs to replace the etched ones on the frames, but I'm having second thoughts about replacing the etched ones. I'll have to have a good look at the drawings tomorrow,

 

Getting ready to tack solder the frames together. The blue dots are where I'll solder them. I'm using the front and rear axle holes to line up the frames,

 

Now the frames are together I can start working out where I'm going to start cutting and drilling. I remembered reading about the etched pick-up holes being marked in the wrong position (it may have been in Nick's thread over on W.T.).

So the first job with the bearings in place was to scribe around the wheel flange, this is the outer line.The inner line is for the centre of the pick-up, I'm going to look at putting the pick-ups on the horizontal centre line of the wheels as I'm going to use CSBs for the suspension and I believe that H. centre line is the best place for the pick-ups.

Looking at the number of etched dimples for rivets, I may have a bit of marking out and drilling to do to represent all the rivets for the lap plates for the rear frames. 

 

One of the next jobs is to remove axle box's 1 & 2 along with the springs. The small + are where I'm thinking about the pivot points for the CSBs,

 

Miss P.  if your reading this, these are the centres that I'm thinking about,  I'm thinking about using 0.022" or 0.024" steel guitar strings.The driving wheelbase is 50.75 + 50.75. 

 

The purple crosses are as follows.These are the wheel centres +.

 

20 + 25.375 + 25.375 + 25.375 + 25.375 + 25.375 + 25.375 + 23 Max.

 

The other ones (black +)  that I was thinking about is 18 + 18 ?? 20 + 20 ?? 22  + 22.

 

I'm expecting more weight at the front end due to the overhang, white metal castings for the steam pipe covers, cylinders etc. At the rear the firebox is a resin casting so not a lot of weight in that. The only large white metal castings at the rear are the firebox extensions and the backhead.

 

At the moment all the etches and casting weigh in at approx 1.5Kg, That includes all of the scrap etches.I may look at adding another 250grms. in the boiler latter on in the build. This would add some weight right above the drivers right where its needed.

 

OzzyO.

[Horsetan]

Very nice....

[farren]

hi OzzyO one question is in your opinion would you say that the main frames are more like a Princess Royal or a Princess coronation? as am sure you would have built both in the past. I ask because that the main frames where used to repair the city of Glasgow as her frames where bent at hallow. and the only reason I can think of Glasgow being repaired in stead of ANN is Glasgow was a more stranded design then Ann was. But this would point to Ann's frames being compatible with a coronation.

 

Super work as always