Anne and me, from the D.As. kit in 7mm.

[ozzyo]

I bought some of those thrust bearings to use with worm gears. I wasn't very impressed - they don't seem all that free.

 

You can get imperial sized bearings from various places, I bought some 3/16" and 1/8" ID ones, but Technobots prices are much better than anywhere else I've been.

 

Regards,

David.

 

Hello David,

 

one of the problems that a lot of people have with thrust bearings is that they set them up too tight. That is that they have no end play, All that you need is about 0.0015" (the thickness of a fag paper) the thrust bearing is only working in one direction at any one time.

 

OzzyO.   

[Grasshopper John]

Look forward to seeing this build Ozzy O Master, as always.

 

ATB

 

Grasshopper J.

[JeffP]

Here's a link to the bearings section: http://www.technobotsonline.com/bearings/miniature-bearings.html

 

And one for the whole shop:  http://www.technobotsonline.com/

 

Some interesting gears too.

 

sadly, most of their stuff is metric, (hardly suprisingly) but it does mean that it will be of litle use unless you have access to a lathe.

[buffalo]

...sadly, most of their stuff is metric, (hardly suprisingly) but it does mean that it will be of litle use unless you have access to a lathe.

These folk do a wide range of bearings in both metric and imperial sizes:

 

http://simplybearings.co.uk

 

no connection other than I've bought some from them before.

 

Nick

[ianmaccormac]

Hi Ozzyo,

 

http://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=3%2F16&product_id=404

 

is a 3/16 inside bearing for 1.25 pounds. I bought some from here in 2010, very good, quick service with a cheapish postage rate If I remember.

These, above, are 3/16 x5/16x1/8 flanged. They should do it without a lot of extra work.

Cheers

Ian in Blackpool. a satisfied customer.

[dajt]

Hello David,

 

one of the problems that a lot of people have with thrust bearings is that they set them up too tight. That is that they have no end play, All that you need is about 0.0015" (the thickness of a fag paper) the thrust bearing is only working in one direction at any one time.

 

OzzyO.   

 

Thanks Ozzy, I'll have a look at the gearbox later and see if I have any end-float.

[farren]

SMB bearings do metric and imperial I've ordered some with 1/8 internal bore small enough for oo gauge.  maryland metrics do a nice on line chart mm to imperial fraction or decimal with a auto conversation for the lazy ones. Can't put a link up as the wife as the pc at the moment.

[Horsetan]

SMB bearings do metric and imperial I've ordered some with 1/8 internal bore small enough for oo gauge.....

The outside diameter of 6.3mm is a little too large to slip into a P4 hornblock, otherwise it would be ideal. I can see applications in diesel bogies.

[ozzyo]

Thanks for the links to the bearing suppliers.

 

OzzyO.

[farren]

The outside diameter of 6.3mm is a little too large to slip into a P4 hornblock, otherwise it would be ideal. I can see applications in diesel bogies.

just out of interest what is the size of a P4 hornblock 

[Jol Wilkinson]

just out of interest what is the size of a P4 hornblock 

That rather depends on the manufacturer and the design. IIRC London Road Models are 5.0mm across the sliding faces. I think High Level are the same. MJT and AG will be very similar.

 

Brassmasters units that slide directly in the frames may be wider.

[billbedford]

The frame cutouts for 4mm scale horn blocks are generally 5mm. Except for Exactoscale and my own which are 4mm.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

I ordered some bits from Technobots a few days back and I now have them in my grubby mitts. Am I happy, I would say yes. One part was a guess and that is the only part that I'm not happy with as it's just too big for anything that I can use it for. So what did I order? Some 2mm silver steel, a big yes at the price. The rest is in the next scan.

 

I have been after some small engine to tender plugs for quite a while and these look like they should do the job, they're called PCB headers male and female (I'll let you work that out).

This first set are three pin, I'm thinking that if one pin is cut off and the socket is filled in you should not be able to fit them the wrong way around.

 

This one is the four pin type, as some of the locos that I build need to have four pin connections. Pick up from the engine to the chip in the tender and power back to the engine (motor). This would work but it could be connected the wrong way round. A blob of paint on one side should sort that out.

 

I'm liking the look of this one. Six pins in a double decker form. I don't know what I can use it for yet, BUT.   

 

The cost of all of the above runs from £0.03 - £0.25 each, but the down side is that you have add V.A.T. and P&P approx £2.50.

 

These are what really caught my eye the roller bearings. These ones are flanged ones and could work well for what I want to use them for. I hope? Before I us them I will run them up to speed. But at £0.99 (ex V.A.T.) each it's worth a pop.

 

 

OzzyO.

[Horsetan]

just out of interest what is the size of a P4 hornblock 

 

It used to be 6mm wide (i.e. the opening in the frames), but I think the trend is towards the narrower High Level / Exactoscale width now.

[steve fay]

The plug, sockets look great mate, I will definitely be requiring that method on my locos from now on. And that might just be Anne's replacement.

Nice

[Sandy Harper]

Re plugs and sockets. I use a 'servo extension lead' from the aeromodellers. It has three cables( red,white,black,( I usually remove the white) ) a male and female plug and socket, that is not reversible, and comes in various lengths but the short one is long enough for tender to engine. Cost about £2.

Sandy

[scot6p]

These are what really caught my eye the roller bearings. These ones are flanged ones and could work well for what I want to use them for. I hope? Before I us them I will run them up to speed. But at £0.99 (ex V.A.T.) each it's worth a pop.

Copy (4) of Bits.jpg

 

OzzyO.

I like the bearings ozzyO   , what is the inside and outside diameters?

 

Len

[ozzyo]

I like the bearings ozzyO   , what is the inside and outside diameters?

 

Len

IIRC the ID is 5mm the OD 10mm and the flange 11.6mm width 4mm.

 

OzzyO.

 

Edit. the bearings start at (all sizes are ID X OD X Width) 1X3X1 up to 17X35X10. the flanged ones start at 2X5X2.5 up to 10X15X4.

[ozzyo]

Hi Ozzyo,

 

http://www.rcbearings.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&filter_name=3%2F16&product_id=404

 

is a 3/16 inside bearing for 1.25 pounds. I bought some from here in 2010, very good, quick service with a cheapish postage rate If I remember.

These, above, are 3/16 x5/16x1/8 flanged. They should do it without a lot of extra work.

Cheers

Ian in Blackpool. a satisfied customer.

 

Hello Ian,

 

sorry I forgot to reply to your post, at £1.25 for a roller bearing I would say that that was a good price.

 

If all goes to plan I'll be starting on Anne today.

 

OzzyO.

[steve fay]

Glad to see you get going on her.

[raymw]

Hi OzzyO,

 

 

This first set are three pin, I'm thinking that if one pin is cut off and the socket is filled in you should not be able to fit them the wrong way around.

 

 

It may be easier to connect the two outside pins together on one part for +ve, say, then on the other only one outside pin needs connecting. It won't matter which way round the plug and socket are used. (centre pin on both parts -ve in this example)

 

Best wishes,

 

Ray

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

well I've made a start on Anne, this will be quit a long build as I'm only going to work on her at the weekends.

The first job is to solder the two inner frames together, I'm using two of the top hats to locate them, these are a bit unusual in that the outer dia. is 7mm, I have also soldered them with the inside to the outside,

   

 

For those of a nervous disposition look away now. The first jobs were to drill out the rear bearings these are 10mm in dia. then saw out the two middle and two front bearings. The frames have also been drilled 2.5mm for the pivot for the rocking frames, I may remove the legs later,

 

The frames separated and all the spacers that I will use, you can see a slot for a spacer in the blued part of the frames that I'll not be using. When the pivot is in place it will act as a spacer,

 

The frames assembled, it looks like I'll have to remove the vertical part of the front spacer,

 

Punching out the rivets on the tender rear, this and the sides are etched in quit thick brass (0.028"), these look to have been done using a process called stop etching, I think that it involves applying one photo tool part etching and then applying another photo tool,

 

Testing the size of rivets for the tank top lifting brackets, there are two sizes of rivets the ones on the left are just a bit bigger,

 

The tank top and hopper inner frames in place,

 

Clockwise from the left, the tank top with all of the etched parts in place, the W/M dome and filler will be fitted after the top is in place. Tender rear, the top of the front coal space bulkhead, this still has some parts to be fitted and the rear coal space bulkhead.

 

OzzyO.

 

EDIT for PS, I ordered a set of six cutting broaches (2.4 to 6.2mm) from Proops (via Ebay) on Wed. and they turned up on Sat. So well done.

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

back on with Anne's build or more correctly the 9 ton tender, it's been more work on the front bulkhead, when I knocked off it was like this,

 

The parts that make up the coal hole and side shelves in place. These parts all fit in half etched recesses, it pays to take your time with these as they will affect the look of the front end if you get them out of square,

 

The front plate and shovelling plate in place,

 

The front with more of the detail added, you can make out a scribed line on the top left rear bulkhead this is for the position of the spare lamp irons,

 

The front of the tender just about completed before and after a quick wash, up to now there are approx 24 parts in this component,

 

About the only thing that I'm a bit surprised at is the lack of rivets on the front plate, as you can see in this photo,

 

OzzyO.

 

[(The) Youth]

Ozzyo

 

Thats starting to look good but as you say the lack or rivets is surprising

 

Have you considered trying to replicate the door locking mechanism as the etch doesn't seem to do it justice.

 

Simon

[ozzyo]

Hello all,

 

well I know how to do it, don't I, questions about this why not do that. OK.

To try and show the size of the rivets try this one, the rule is in 0.5mm increments,

 

The front of the coal hole door, is that a bit better for you? It is for me!

 

Starting to put the body together, I like to get inside to do as much soldering as possible.  I'm also now trying some new flux for these parts,

 

The front going into place,

 

From the back and the front,

 

I have been asked about the burrs that I use, this is a selection of what I use. The ones in the centre are from my dentist (some will let you have old ones some wont) the two on the outside are quit coarse that I don't use that much,

 

OzzyO.