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Arboretum Valley - Invasion of the Daleks


Kal
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Wow Jaz. I used to think that the Bachmann fuelling point was a decent model. Then I saw a comparison between your model and the Bachmann one. The Bachmann one looks so boring compared to yours. The addition of figures and the inclusion of minute details really brings your model to life.  

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David Todd / dt

Thank you, as you mentioned on the phone this is a good reference picture. It has a strong look of the Bachmann one as well. Lydrail really has supplied you with some wonderful reference pictures.

 

Jcredfer.'s model..

was spot on with the red telephone box too...

12749693313_ef8be3d0a3_c.jpg

 

Jack374 is clearly going in the right direction too

post-21664-0-21028000-1393184959_thumb.j

 

Rammy went with green

Derby-20110427-00134.jpg

Clearly EVERYONE researched  the telephone boxes etc I went yellow.....which probably fitted in better with the yellow plastic look, so I think I need to go red......

Edited by Jaz
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OFFICIAL DISCLAIMER :angel: ............I take no responsibility for any one mad enough to emulate this........ :scared:............ :butcher:

 

 

OK

Kal wants a loco painted. The loco in question is a class66

 

firstly I need to remove the original logo etc, so following Kal's lead a cocktail stick with dried superglue. 'Attacking' a perfectly good model is rather scary.

first off I add some Tamiya tape to protect the coloured areas I do NOT want to damage. Going a little further at the ends to give me some leeway with Tcut, scratching and replacement paints.

med_gallery_17883_3145_436085.jpgrmweb915class66A

 

If you look carefully the tape is slightly opaque helping you to line up

med_gallery_17883_3145_171121.jpgrmweb916class66B

Kal has a second one of these.....as I am sure in the fullness of time there will be people busting their bums trying to buy the livery.

Edited by Jaz
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Progress.....well  :butcher: ......with a cocktail stick

As the sides have groves I rub along the same direction as the grooves (which is useful holding the stick in a straight line)

And wince as the paint and sticky labels (decals?) are knocked off. Little bits are soon all over the place - wipe off carefully with a water dampened tissue.

I would advice NOT scrapping at any other angle because you are likely to damage the grooves (do not do this with a knife you are sure to see blue bits!!!!!)

med_gallery_17883_3145_163086.jpgrmweb917class66C

Again look at the edge of the Tamiya paint and it is just possible to discern the paint work I am protecting

 

Some time later using ONLY the cocktail stick (in the model room with the door shut so no dogs and no noise as a distraction) :scared:

med_gallery_17883_3145_224315.jpgrmweb918class66D

Edited by Jaz
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The cocktail stick works fine along the groves, but just here the model runs in a different direction making this lot hard to remove, I used a harder tool to carefully dig out the remaining thick paint (you don't want to know it would make you wince)

med_gallery_17883_3145_284765.jpgrmwrmweb920class66Feb919class66E

 

and when I had removed what I could without damaging the model I resorted to Tcut. With the little Tamiya pointed cotton buds....they are not even in the same country let along street as normal cotton buds....and I would not recommend them for a model with grooves (on the flat maybe). The point gets into much finer spaces.

med_gallery_17883_3145_335039.jpgrmweb920class66F

 

 

I have to say I am not certain if the Tcut actually removed the paint, but it does act as a lubricant whilst I slowly rub the paint residue of with the Tamiya cotton bud rather than the cocktail stick.

I put on a slight excess of Tcut then carefully wipe it off after some vigorous rubbing - if it looks likely to dribble I remove it INSTANTLY. As the end gets messed up I wipe if off on the tissue so as to not stir the colour around but attempt to remove it. This colour the orange shows up better on the tissue and was a result of trying to remove the wavy line

med_gallery_17883_3145_76642.jpgrmweb921class66G

The wavy line is a LOT ore difficult to remove. If anyone knows of a guaranteed safer way to do this at speed I would be grateful of that knowledge.

Edited by Jaz
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The ends are the difficult bit, I resorted to scratching and picking here

med_gallery_17883_3145_520602.jpgrmweb922class66H

 

I have attacked the left side the right side has a voting of Tcut. I'm not convinced the Tcut does more than provide a medium to wipe the pant of.

med_gallery_17883_3145_455897.jpgrmweb923classI

 

A first coat of Tcut

med_gallery_17883_3145_333421.jpgrmweb924class66J

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OFFICIAL DISCLAIMER :angel: ............I take no responsibility for any one mad enough to emulate this........ :scared:............ :butcher:

 

 

OK

Kal wants a loco painted. The loco in question is a class66

 

 

 

 

Kal has a second one of these.....as I am sure in the fullness of time there will be people busting their bums trying to buy the livery.

 

Is this one of those "been there done that" moments? :O  :tease:

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Yes and I blame YOU!!! ;)

 

Not entirely certain if that deserves a thanks, agree, friendly, funny or disagree credit.......................

 

Looking forward to seeing Roger (or Paul, depending on your level of humour) on one side.

Cheers,

Mick

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I am of course pulling your leg, am extremely grateful for your help and in put without which I would not be brave enough to attempt this. amm just hoping to not fook up too badly.....but promised Kal I would have ago . if it works out it's his birthday present, if it doesn't I still have time to get him a consolation prize........but hey if you want to share your credit card details..........

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After the results with the artist masking (where you clearly want to have it go clear)

Here I definitely want to know where it is so the Maskol in purple is much more useful

med_gallery_17883_3145_392370.jpgrmweb925class66K

 

a close up of the area I plan to paint

med_gallery_17883_3145_453115.jpgrmweb926class66L

 

The area in question, to the right of the maskol nd inside the tape.

med_gallery_17883_3145_659830.jpgrmweb927class66M

Hopeful the remaining paint will be hidden. And at this point we have a dilemma.....paint directly on? or seal it? And if seal with what?

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In order to avoid major accidents, we tend to decant small quantities of Klear and Tcut into resealable small bottle for use near the models.

Kal luckily has a wagon or two that are 'never have beens' so will need repainting, so I can practise on them instead of direct onto the loco which costs a lot more than £3.50

The test wagon gets a lick of Klear hopefully to seal it before painting.

med_gallery_17883_3145_561604.jpgrmweb928class66N

 

I then test the colour that will go on the Class66 first.....blue

med_gallery_17883_3145_73357.jpgrmweb931class660

 

a  phoenix  precision dull GBRF blue. Hope this will test if: a. if they work ok on clear,b. if they sit next to each other ok. We don't want the colours running.....

Or as they say in the Army.......These colours don't run!!!!!!!!

med_gallery_17883_3145_738747.jpgrmweb932class66P

 

the colour in question??? Yes I know a decent loco, and no rail match or precision paint? Well you'll find out why as we carry on,

just not at the mo,

Can ya tell what it is yet blue?

med_gallery_17883_3145_324230.jpgrmweb933class66Q

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