West End Workbench

[JCL]

I had no idea you had this thread, and I don't know why. Your C1s look absolutely lovely. I've signed up for your next instalment.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[Phil Brighton]

Thanks for showing the DJH C1 build in such detail. I have exactly the same kit I am just preparing to start. Have you made a decision on what motor/gears you will use?

[jwealleans]

My pleasure, Phil. They will all have Mashima 1624 + flywheel and High Level Highflyer 54:1 boxes driving on the leading axle. That should give consistent performance across the four of them. I tested 4444 earlier in the year with that combination fitted and it strolled away with the 6 kitbuilt carriages I did for Grantham in time for Barrow Hill. They're unlikely to be asked to pull anything much heavier than that. To be precise, at least one will have a RoadRunner Plus 54:1 as that's what Chris Gibbon sent. I assume he just substituted it as it can be assembled to be the same height as the HighFlyer and the gears are identical. The only problem with it has been that with the slightly wider lower section it's a midge's proverbial too wide for the DJH chassis so I'm going to have to swap into one of the others, most likely the WSM one. The net effect should be nil. I did have to widen the slot under the boiler quite a bit to get the motor to fit in that position, but I can live with that.

 

For anyone building the kit, as well as de Selby's thread on here which I've referenced above I can recommend Graeme King's article on building the kit from BRM, December 2006. Having seen the loco he built perform, it's a superb runner and very powerful.

 

I put the tender chassis together last night. The DJH instructions assume you'll use American pickup (tender live to one side, loco to the other). I shall try for both side pickup on both, so I need to fit pickups to the tender and find a means of connecting the two together, hence the part builds of both loco and tender rather then going right through either.

 

 

The tender chassis is a hollow box, so I ought to be able to run wires through the base plate and along the inside towards the loco. The question then will be where to place the plug connector so as to be accessible and not interfere with either the loco to tender connection or the trailing axle on the loco. The instructions aren't clear on how you secure the tender body to the chassis either but there's plenty of room to fit a couple of small captive nuts and bolt up from underneath.

 

One further point, which Mr King's article had already alerted me to - the wheels are held in by a baseplate which unbolts. However the brake cross shafts will then make it impossible to remove the wheels on their axles, so having soldered up the brake rigging I cut away the shafts inside the shoes, leaving the whole area clear for pickups and wheel removal if required.

 

One other small point - DJH nuts and bolts have a finer thread than the Eileen's/Hobby Holidays/Wizard/Mainly Trains/Nigel Burkin assortment I have in my box and can't be interchanged. So soldering on the DJH captive nuts and then thinking "I'll use a shorter bolt, save cutting this nice long one" isn't going to work for you.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[jwealleans]

Not many posts but things have been moving on - AGW came up with the goods last week and we were able to do some running trials with the new bogie wheels and they seem to be fine. In some ways we've gone backwards as I've been dismantling again this week, but in the confidence that I can reassemble things which will work.

 

I finished putting the DJH tender brasswork together. The cast top is simply placed for the picture. It all fitted together far better than a few other kits I can think of.

 

 

I did end up putting two captive nuts inside the body so it screws onto the chassis. I also think it sits slightly high, according to the buffer setting gauge I use, which makes it look more slab sided than it ought.

 

I retrieved the motor and Highflyer gearbox from the WSM version and it will go into the DJH. It is snug, but it fits.

 

 

... and with the lid on:

 

 

I will be putting a flywheel on these as well.

 

The WSM tender (the one with the wonky wheel) did exhibit some pretty poor running when I tested it - I must have knocked or damaged something working on it as it didn't before. However, that was why I had ordered up a pair of frames from AGW which Colin had kindly supplied 'rigid' (i.e. with holes instead of hornblock cutouts). AGW have always done this on request.

 

 

I had to adapt it to fit the tender - at the rear (left) it slots over a lip in the cast body structure while at the front a bolt goes up through some plastikard glued to the sides internally to a captive nut on top. I also had to remove a section of frame in front of the front spacer so it slots inside the body. The wheels I had were on pinpoint axles which have been filed back. Small washers on the inside of the frames to increase the bearing surface and the centre axle hole is enlarged slightly to allow it to ride up over uneven track.

 

 

Runs much better now, just needs the pickups reinstating. The original cast guard irons were very fragile as well and I've been able to dispense with those as the frames incorporate them.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[jwealleans]

Just a little progress last night - i didn't think anyone would want pictures pf paint drying.

 

I put the WSM chassis together last night.  The wires will need rerouting once the flywheel is fitted - I have a friend turning the bore out to 2mm at the moment as i had acquired a number with 1.5mm holes.  The gearbox is a RoadRunner Plus with the pivoting section loctited in the vertical position.

 

 

The pony wheels on this kit were the right size - you can see how much smaller the AGW bogie wheels are to clear the front end.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[jwealleans]

I only had a short time at the bench last night so I tackled a job I'd been lining up for a while - coal rails for the WSM tender. 4412 was a 3 rail loco and the tender as it was looked nothing far short of bizarre. Did the kit ever contain them or was it only ever intended to be built in GNR condition?

 

 

It's all made with .45 wire, dimensions from the Isinglass drawing initially then worked out on the WSM casting itself.

 

I reckoned the best way to attach it would be low melt round the top of the flare behind the coal plates, so the paint had to be taken off for the solder to key to.

 

 

The front coal plate fell off, which saved me removing it - it should be at an angle and the plan was to fit the rails then fettle the plate back in between them.

 

 

... and here it is. Not as perfect as an etched set might have been but I can spot a little solder along the top to straighten that rail and bend the front in slightly to merge better. This is the worse of the two sides anyway and once it's black and moving, who'll spot it? The overall effect is much better, they' have stuck out like a sore thumb if they'd been missing.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[Barry O]

can you do a set for my D41??

 

please?

 

really!

[jwealleans]

Of course, Barry.  Bring the tender and a drawing next time we're at Grantham and I'll see what I can manage.

[Barry O]

You are a star!

[jwealleans]

Went down to Hull Show yesterday - always worth a trip and didn't disappoint. Peter and I lent a hand on John White's Leeds Central, the first time I've seen it and it didn't disappoint either. On the Wizard Models stand, an announcement of a new kit:

 

 

Bought one (well, it would be rude not to). This morning, looking for a little job to do and never one to resist a wagon kit for long...

 

It gave me a chance to try this little gadget out:

 

 

and all in all it makes up rather nicely:

 

 

Nice two part buffers, etched W irons, rocking at one end, clean square castings - pleasure to build. Just needs a wash and a roof and it's ready for the paint shop.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[PGC]

Fascinating gadget, Jonathan, what is it, please?

 

Phil

[Paul Cram]

It is a clamp sold by Finney and Smith for holding things at right angles. I have one and it is brilliant so if you want one you had better get it ordered quick

[jwealleans]

I'm afraid it's already too late for Finney and Smith - but their site says it's now sold by Branchlines.  It's called a Coffman right clamp and it pretty much does what it says on the tin.  Worked very well today, certainly.

[Worsdell forever]

I spotted the H&B van and was very tempted, next time I see them I will get one.

[Nelson Jackson]

That's a lovely looking model and may be a good one for myself, you mention washing the model? What do you use to do this? And is it really necessary? Keep up the great work.

[jwealleans]

Hi Nelson,

 

Washing removes any flux which might be left over and can attack joints (and paint) if you don't remove it.  It also keeps the model tidy, getting rid of any detritus which has accumulated and makes brass ones lovely and shiny.

 

I use 'Shiny Sinks' and warm water, but other people have their own preferred cleaners - 'Barkeeper's Friend' is mentioned fairly often.  A soft used toothbrush does what is required, in an old washing up bowl to catch any bits you detach while scrubbing. 

 

Rinse thoroughly and stand on the central heating boiler (other warm locations are available) until fully dry.

[PGC]

Hi Nelson,

 

Washing removes any flux which might be left over and can attack joints (and paint) if you don't remove it.  It also keeps the model tidy, getting rid of any detritus which has accumulated and makes brass ones lovely and shiny.

 

I use 'Shiny Sinks' and warm water, but other people have their own preferred cleaners - 'Barkeeper's Friend' is mentioned fairly often.  A soft used toothbrush does what is required, in an old washing up bowl to catch any bits you detach while scrubbing. 

 

Rinse thoroughly and stand on the central heating boiler (other warm locations are available) until fully dry.

 

Rooms full of hot air spouted by theorists rather than doers?

 

Taking cover.............

 

Phil

[jwealleans]

There has been sporadic activity on the WB but I've been quite busy with work and full of cold for a few days as well so perhaps not as much as I'd have liked.

 

H & B van now had roof and primer.

 

 

Just need to tidy the glue along the roofline up and it can join the queue for paint.

 

I've been flicking through albums gathering up photos of the C1s I'll be building and tonight started detailing a few of them up.

 

 

I did the rest of the tender top for the WSM one through the week - rear coal plate, scoop dome - and gave it a first coat of paint.

 

The WSM model - 4412 - has had some of the detail applied.

 

 

Atomiser pipe, smokebox door stop (handrail cut back), dart, the support plates under the front of the firebox, frame lifting holes, grab handles above the centre steps and that spigot at the bottom of the firebox. That shows up one of the weakest points of this kit, the bottom of the firebox curving in and leaving too much running plate showing.

 

 

In other news, 3249 is no more. Once I realised it wasn't a correct C1 number I noticed all the other constructional faults on the body and decided it had to go. So it's been in the stripper, been soldered back together and is on the way back.

 

 

Since the photo I've been detailing this one - it will now be 3296 when complete. Compared to 4412 above, it still had the extra lamp iron on the RHS, the atomiser pipe on the RHS from behind the handrail instead of higher up, and no piston tail rods. It also had the works plate on the frames not the splasher although that will be added much later.

 

I need to get an order into Markits for all the bits and bobs still missing - Ross Pops, Wakefields, darts, and a set of wheels for 3296 as well - I've realised that the ones in the box are 24mm not 26. I don't know what I've done with the 26mm ones.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[Barry O]

I'm afraid it's already too late for Finney and Smith - but their site says it's now sold by Branchlines.  It's called a Coffman right clamp and it pretty much does what it says on the tin.  Worked very well today, certainly.

Branchlines now have these in stock. Which size is best?

 

Not cheap but very jandy

 

baz

[jwealleans]

Productive afternoon at the bench: the DJH C1, now at the rolling shell stage.  Since the picture it's been stripped down and washed ready for priming the chassis.  Once that's painted, the mechanicals will be fitted.

 

 

The safety valves aren't really at that rakish angle - I've just been to check after I saw the photograph.  Still work to do on the body - pipework, guard irons and steps to add - no point in putting them on too early, they'll just be knocked off again.  Per Graeme's BRM article the sideplates either side of the rear axle (was it a Cartazzi?) have been extended and the firebox support bracket added.  There's still a slightly mysterious hole to fill in on there, though.  I have added .5mm packing under the cab but it looks as if it needs a touch more to sit dead level with the tender.

 

The tender has also been finished and detailed.  Note to self - next time pick a loco with 3 coal rails.  What a job cutting the top one off and tidying up without bending the etch irreparably.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans

[gr.king]

The incorrect number of spokes in the bogie wheels of my DJH Atlantic has more than once been noticed and mentioned by a knowledgeable gentleman who we both know. You now have the chance to install ten spoke wheels before you finish the paint job on your loco and then you can keep pointing out that I still haven't corrected the howling error on mine....

[Earlswood Nob]

Good morning all

 

Whilst I do try and fit wheels with the correct number of spokes, for my own satisfaction. I think it would be nit-picking to criticise a model constructed by a fellow modeller for having the wrong number of spokes. I couldn't be bothered to count the spokes anyway.

 

Now, I must count the wood block simulation on my Mansell wheels to make sure they have the correct number.

 

Earlswood nob

 

P.S. I don't know how many blocks were in the originals, so I'll give it a miss.

[Zero Gravitas]

Branchlines now have these in stock. Which size is best?

 

Not cheap but very jandy

 

baz

 

Quick question - do Branchlines have a website?  It's probably a PICNIC problem, but I can't find it...

 

Thanks in advance - and apologies if I've inadvertantly hijacked the thread...

 

Best Regards,

 

ZG.

[jwealleans]

No problem.  No, he doesn't have a web presence, only a blog which is way out of date.  I am told he's very quick at responding to emails, however.

[jwealleans]

Momentous evening for the DJH C1 which has the mechanicals fitted and moved under its own power. Pickups have also been fitted to the tender but as yet they're not connected.

 

 

It does look nose high, but the packing under the cab has fallen out. The whole thing is about 1mm too high in point of fact but at this stage there's not a great deal you can do without major surgery and probably compromising the structural integrity of the whole thing.

 

For those of you who like this kind of thing, here she is with the lid off.

 

 

The rear axle is also still open to question - I know Graeme made a pony truck for his and I may go the same way - I'm slightly tempted by the radial axle idea but I'd have to wait for one to come through and I'm not sure I have the patience. Three of the four are now mobile and if Mr Markits is as prompt as he promised we might be well on the way to complete by Christmas.

Edited October 18, 2018 by jwealleans