Nick C

The Global Association of International Sports Federations have a pretty good definition, in my opinion:

There is, or at least was when we went there in '22, at least one photo on the wall in the Alness Heritage Centre - if that's any help? Partial photo on this page too: https://www.fofnl.org.uk/newsletters/20May/20may24.php and here: https://www.fofnl.org.uk/fne80.php

As a fellow heritage railway signalman (coming up to 4 years now since I qualified, so still a relative newby too, compared to some of my colleagues with 50+ years...), I'll assure you you're going to have fun! You'll soon find you get annoyed by badly-signalled layouts though ;) Is it just the way the diagram is drawn, or are none of the points covered by the track circuits? Or is that another of the 'in progress' things?

Apparently insulation is another one - with all sorts of falsehoods being told to get people to pay more than they need to...

What's wrong with that? Someone can be lactose intolerant but still like good food...

IIRC that's an 'or' rather than an 'and' - but again that might vary by council & size... 99% of normal garden sheds are both within 1m of the boundary and made of timber... Could always build something adjacent to the garage and use both ;)

Admit it, your name is really Wallace and you live in Wigan?

I'd have thought doing so at the point of being charged would be better? I know the difference between the two is only a technicality, but less chance of some expensive lawyer arguing about it...

That's how I'd go about it. On the planning side, as usual with such things there's a lot of "it depends" - between 15m2 and 30m2 can also be allowed under permitted development but might require building regs approval. Check with the local council first!

That's been a full 3-car modern EMU every time I've been, as an extension of the Airport service.

Wheras the major disadvantage of the Dunster one I have is that the wall aren't sufficiently insulated - they claim they are as part of the design, but 44mm of wood does not give enough insulation to be of any use in a UK climate, and the nature of the design makes it impossible to add any more - wheras a framed design can have 100mm of PIR all round. It's cold, it's damp, the roof leaked until I replaced it, the doors stick. Whether the original owner used the right preservative I don't know, but I really wouldn't recommend anyone buy one.

I've not measured it, but when one of the window frames in mine was sticking, it opened up a gap of several mm between adjacent planks, and the door catch has to be adjusted by a similar amount each season to get it to lock properly. I have my own layout freestanding like that, but I've had to build it out of much heavier timber than I'd otherwise use to prevent warping, and run a dehumidifier in there all winter to stop damage - and I can't work out there in the winter as it's too cold, and costs too much to heat it. Bear in mind that their £5k doesn't include the concrete slab, any insulation, any fitting out (electrics etc), a decent roof covering (It'll probably come with felt, but that's crap) - just the timber and windows/doors - so you're going to be talking £7-8k by the time you're done. Much better to build one yourself as @Harlequin says, then you get exactly what you need - there's a few threads on here about it, and loads of YouTube videos.

Don't. Just Don't. Seriously, avoid such buildings like the plague. We have one, built by the previous owner. Yes they're quick and easy to put up, and no doubt great as a 'summerhouse', but they have a major flaw for our purposes - you can't insulate them properly, which means hot in the summer, cold and damp in the winter. Because of the interlocking-log design, you can't attach anything to the walls as they need to be able to expand and contract as the humidity changes, and while they claim that 44mm of timber is a good insulator, it isn't. I've added 50mm of Celotex to the floor and roof of ours, which helps a bit, but it really needs the walls lining too, which is impossible. If you want a shed, build a proper one, with timber framing, vapour barriers, full insulation and external cladding - it'll almost certainly work out cheaper than that anyway, if you do the labour yourself.

Not much point if they've already ceased trading...

I quite like this alternative set of suggestions from Count Binface...

I don't think REPs, TC or VEPs had them either, at least not that I can see from flicking through a couple of books...

The Yellow/Blue livery suits the EN57s well, I've only known them in the Red/Grey livery. Mrs C's family live near the Krakow-Zakopane line so I know it fairly well, but a lot has changed in the last decade, including three new curves to cut out the reversals at Płaszów, Sucha Beskidska and Chabówka.

That only works if the two pairs of switches at each end of the slip are separately controlled though - I believe that William is using RTR pointwork so they'll be on a single tiebar?

I'm with @Harlequin on this, I've never heard of giving a cat a bath! They do it themselves about a dozen times a day, and ours certainly aren't smelly! The closest we've ever come to that was when Bonnie tried to jump on a freshly painted fence and got paint on her front paws - she didn't take kindly to being grabbed and having her paws washed! Benji occasionally likes to be dried when he comes in from the rain too!

A few thoughts... Points 7 would probably be a hand-point in real life as they're in the sidings. You then only need one of 22/23, which would apply to either road depending on the lie of 7. The pilot siding crossover doesn't need FPLs as there's no facing passenger moves in either direction. Crossovers commonly would have had separate FPLs for either end. You don't need to lock trailing moves (and it was often disallowed by the locking), so crossovers 1 & 5 would have separate FPLS on either end. The others all only need them on one end. The exit signal from the loco siding would be at the toe of the trap point - you've drawn it much further to the right. The Brighton appear to have been prolific providers of shunt signals, as I discussed on Linny's thread the other day, 22 at Littlehampton prior to the SR's resignalling. While the SR would have had just one (32) for all movements back in from the up main, I think the LBSC would have had more - it seems like they had a pair at each facing point! As others have mentioned, a bit of renumbering is needed. I'm not sure what signal 18 is for? You wouldn't have a shunt-ahead on an advanced starter, it defeats the point. 17 should be a train length clear of 32 so that a train can draw up to it to shunt across without the section in advance needing to be clear. I'd also expect an outer home for such a busy station, but that'll be off-stage, 440 yards prior to inner home to allow for a clearing point.

The water there looks surprisingly clear - I'd expect a lot more blood! What did the poor things do to deserve such torture?

You're covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015 for 6 years, regardless of the claimed warranty length.

Unless, of course, it's one of the people who like to submit clips for YouTube dashcam videos - in which case they will floor it onto the roundabout as a large vehicle is entering on the next junction to their left, then slam on the anchors and whine "he pulled out in front of me" - errr, no, he was already moving before you entered!

As someone who models the 1950s, I have to say your site is very good (and I must get round to putting an order in) for showing which wagons did last into BR ownership. A lot of purveyors of pre-grouping kits don't, which is fine for local stuff as I can look them up, but I don't have the books for every company in the country to check - and as has been discussed many times in this thread, a good variety is essential...

Bike lights? As in lights, on bicycles? That'll never catch on...