92220

Hi everyone, Progress so far: Hopefully you can see in the background the fact that the shed is fully lined and powered. I have had to adjust the templot plan very slightly for various reasons (primarily that I miscalculated the location of a baseboard join and so the switch blades of two turnouts would have been right across the join). Of course, the knock-on effect of that is that most of the turnouts that I've built thus far are now not quite right. I think that is secretly a blessing in disguise. Hopefully the experience gained will have been helpful in building better replacements. I have laid the majority of the 12 feet of 4 track mainline onto 2 pieces of primed and sealed 6mm ply. It's been wired, painted and partly ballasted. The two modules are temporarily in position on the pictures. The two halves of the plan for the shed area have been printed out. The eagle eyed amongst you will see that the printer cartridges began to fade halfway through, The south end has been glued to its section of 6mm ply Gordon S showed me how his tracklaying for ET was progressing, and the idea of laying onto balsa so that it could be easier to manhandle for wiring, painting and ballasting really appealed to me. Spray painting and airbrushing outside seemed a distinct bonus too. I doubted how delicate I could be with balsa though, and so had the idea of using ply. I'm not concerned with noise or portability, so fixing the ply to the baseboards with screw and glue should give a very solid base. I hope..... Detail of the trackwork: Outside in dull light: Inside without flash Inside with flash: Inside with evening sun streaming through the windows: I think/know it needs further weathering. I'm after that urban mainline rust/brake dust/filth look..... I'm expecting dilute and judicious airbushing or washes. I've searched on RMWeb using various search criteria but haven't got the information I'm after. Any guidance much appreciated! I need to complete these modules and the scenic sections/backscene behind them before I go onto the main shed areas. Iain .

Thanks for the interest, encouragement and information everyone. I took a few photos of progress today and will upload them tomorrow. Iain

Thanks for sharing, and please do continue if you can. Iain

Your workmanship is excellent Gordon, as is your judgement of when to rethink. I really think that you have hit upon the right plan now, and although it takes time, you will be running trains a lot sooner and more reliably than if you'd persevered with the more complex plan. And a lot sooner than I will, unless I can find a 35 hour day from somewhere! I look forward to seeing further progress. Best wishes, Iain

A quick bit of background by way of preamble: I wanted to build a proper layout as a young teenager, but cricket, golf and girls won the battle for my attention, probably in that order at the time if I'm honest. I didn't look much at model railways for some time. I built a 6x4 Thomas layout for our older son in about 2000, and it was about then that I first thought about building a steam shed. Again, that idea went firmly to the background and only when a shoulder injury prevented me from playing golf in late 2009 did I find myself at enough of a loose end to rediscover. I had 2 attempts to build a design of my own in the loft. Steam MPD so I could have an excuse to have, detail, convert and weather plenty of locos, plus a mainline because I like big trains. The second of those attempts is pictured: Peco code 75 on the scenic side, which was only 8'x3'. Scenic is a misnomer really as it never got that far. Code 100 for the 20' runs down each side and the 11 road storage yard. 11 roads? Don't ask..... Storage yard showing how dark it is up there (apologies for the photo quality) 2 separate and far too small control panels. At least they worked. I learnt a lot: Wiring and control panels Electrofrog points Laying track in alignment Soldering But mainly That if I was going to do it at all, I would (try to) do it properly That I didn't want to do so in an unconverted loft, with the storage yard the other side of the water tank, and all the other loft-related problems. So here we are..... It's going to be a big project but I'm expecting that. It's called Camden Shed as it's in a shed, and based on Camden. "Based on", rather than a truly representative model. I wanted it to be recognisable, so I hope I'll manage that. I will use a bit of modeller's licence to run a few locos and services that won't have been prototypical. The shed layout is simplified and about 40% smaller, even than the cramped site that Camden sat on. It has a curved 4 track mainline running past it, although the curve is, unusually, perhaps somewhat straighter on the model than the prototype. The massive expanse of Camden goods yard on the opposite side of the running lines has to go, and I don't see a way to represent it so the plan is to pretend that the retaining wall, which is present further down on the east side of Camden Bank, extended past the loco shed all the way to what I think is the Regents Park Road Bridge (which is the one on the left, now pedestrian only ). Here is the plan as it stands after some help from various people. I still can't quite get the crossings right on Templot, and there are no trap points as they would be off scene. I spent as much as I could afford or justify to get a high quality 20' x10' shed on a purpose-built reinforced concrete base. It was insulated throughout with 50mm Celotex and lined with plywood. It has decent security features added too. The electrics were done by a highly reputable professional, so hopefully it will be a decent place to build and run the layout. It has certainly been fine in the recent cold weather. Layout Baseboards are 12mm ply, using one of the many familiar methods. Almost all of the track is/will be C&L. Flexi track and chaired pointwork on the scenic side (now 12' x 3'6" at its widest), and copperclad pointwork elsewhere. I'll use Peco code 75 plain track in the storage sidings. I'm building the track in modules using templot printouts. More to follow as and when I can. Many thanks to all who have helped so far, and hopefully in the future. Iain Edited to remove all the ridiculous conversions of ' and " to €@TM etc........

Looking fantastic Gordon. I would say that if Eastwood Town is falling flat on your face, most of us should call in Stuart Hall and Eddie Waring and play the joker... Inspiration to me and no doubt a few others. Thanks for this and all the help, Iain

Gordon, I'm sure you're plotting a deft course (even you feel it involves a minor compromise here and there), through the complex journey to getting ET running. I'm very impressed with your work and grateful for your time and expertise in helping me too. Best wishes, Iain

Gordon All looks fantastic and I'm delighted to see the progress. Not half as delighted as you will be I expect! Iain

Gordon, Intrigued to watch your progress with the new layout design. Your work has been a real inspiration to me up to now and I'm sure that will continue. Best wishes, Iain

They look great Ian. I made up my own valve chest covers out of thin plasticard - definitely a good addition to the resin castings but yours are way better. I'm going to do another one of these at some point so maybe Pete can be persuaded to do some more? One suggestion is to get some 9F spectacle surrounds for the front windows from Classic Train Motor and Bus. Same shape as on Brits and the Duke. They lift the look of the cab enormously, and are relatively easy to glaze as well.......at least they would be for you.....my early attempt does have glue marks on so that's another reason for another attempt. Thanks for sharing as always. Iain

Gilbert Thanks so much for sharing all this. I've observed and been silently inspired for a while. I was born and brought up near Peterborough and your layout could be nowhere else! Please keep it coming, and best of luck with progress. Iain

True - neverwazzas give more licence I suppose! Maybe I can pass all of my stuff off as such? I do applaud you going off the correct drawings though, as the proportions look so much more "right" with the 5'3" drivers. I thought of trying one of these but my rudimentary skills mean I need to use a chassis from something RTR. Maybe one day.... Iain

Don't think anyone could disagree with that decision. I'm sure it will run as well as it looks. Latest BRM has another attempt at the 2-8-2, but using the front 4 drivers of a Bachmann 9F chassis. The author has done a very good job, but yours is much more coherent with the correct chassis dimensions and driver diameter, not to mention outstanding workmanship. Thanks again for sharing it all. Iain

Tim, Very much enjoying the work on this thread. As requested, I've posted some pics of my Caprotti 5, but in this thread: http://www.rmweb.co....__gopid__386360 My photos (and my work!) probably aren't up to polluting either the gallery or your thread! Cheers, Iain

A familiar look to those Comet bits! That lot will look fabulous when completed. Do you spring the pony truck, or weightit? If so, any tips would be gratefully appreciated? Iain (almost as much a Riddles fan as you....)

Looks great - I've enjoyed seeing this take shape. You've made an especially brilliant job of the pipework and running plate/valance, and I'm sure it will look great when painted and lined too. You were searching for some draincocks a while back - no luck? Inspiring stuff - thanks! Iain

Congratulations Tim, looks just right! As well as agreeing with other comments, I especially like the effects you have managed with the wheels and motion. They look just as all the colour photos of 60's Duchesses seem to portray. Ideal mix of oily, dirty and "alive". I guess you have to redo all, or at least some of, that when you regauge? Iain

Every time I see your stuff, Chris, there is a conflict between inspiration (some of the most realistic and atmospheric models and photos I've seen) and dejection (why the ____ do I bother?) ! Thankfully the former wins...... Thanks - stunning, as Redgate says. Iain

Hi Robin, Each instalment provides further inspiration! Like Tim, I'm looking forward to more as well. My own layout is of similar genre, but not of a prototype, and Barrow Road gives me a lot of help. Thank you. It also shows how many compromises there are in almost everything I've done! Best wishes, Iain

Thanks - its appearance and performance were great. Dunno where all those <BR> marks came from in my last reply. It's not a subliminal message..... Iain

Hi Chris,<BR>Very good to meet you and Dave on Saturday. Catcott was an inspiration!<BR>I meant to ask what the origins of your 4F were.<BR><BR>All the best,<BR><BR>Iain

Congratulations Graham. Really enjoyed seeing FS in action yesterday. There was some serious competition for the layout of the day as well.... Iain

OK, here is a pic of the front of the prototype, showing I got the vacuum pipe bracket on the first post somewhere near right. The steam heat pipe was a later addition. Now to the driver's side under cab pipework. This is rarely modelled as far as I know but it is very noticeable, even if not as prominent as the massive bundle of injector pipework on the fireman's side. There is more still, but it is fine enough not to worry for my purposes. 0.7mm copper wire bent to shape, Brassmasters pipe flange soldered in the correct position, secured using a twist of 0.2mm wire soldered in place on the bend and superglued into a tiny drilled hole. End of the wire glued into a drilled hole in the rear of the loco. A second pipe, soldered onto the first, joins to a water hose from the tender. There is a similar hose from the rhs water injector, and both of these fit nicely into the void under the tender, between the steps. The tender can then move freely without contacting these pipes when in normal use. Cab doors: As I mentioned, these are actually attached to the tender on the real thing. Most models have them, if at all, on the cab. Start point was a set of Brassmasters cab doors. Cut off the mounting strips so that they are 2.5mm long. Solder short lengths of 0.45 ns wire to the rear of the strips Drill locating holes (these on another tender) Paint and fix in place: End result: There is a small diagonal chamfer at the base of the cab door closest to the tender, presumably to accommodate the slope of the fall plate. I've not decided whether I'm going that far yet! It does work. You could mount them with a little more play, but the slight springiness in the loco-tender coupling gives a tiny bit of play. They're rigid enough but flexible enough. If that makes any sense. Iain

Hi Tim, Thanks. Yes to both questions. What I hadn't worked out is that I need to start a new blog entry or edit the post above, to attach some more photos. Unless I'm missing something. I'm used to forum-type posting...... For the doors, I adapted some Brassmasters cab doors, and was hell bent on getting them to attach to the tender instead of the cab. It wasn't anywhere near as hard as I feared and they work quite well - pics to come in the next instalment. Dropped you an email - did it get through? Iain

Hi all, Here is a blow-by-blow account of upgrading the Bachmann Evening Star. I think the basic model is really superb in many ways, but I wanted to do a few modifications. Extra weight for improved adhesion Loco-tender coupling distance Loco lifting rings on front frames Correct pattern front coupling and vacuum pipe Remove steamheating pipe base from buffer beam GWR pattern lamp irons Buffer shank steps on loco and tender Remove NEM pocket from front bogie and fabricate spring and damper Gibson front bogie wheels Gibson smokebox door dart New handrails with correct pillars Comet front steps Cab doors (they're actually tender doors in real life....) Tender buffer beam details Tender coupling "goalpost" Nameplate and commemorative plate New injector pipework under fireman's side of cab Driver's side under cab pipework Water pipes from tender to injectors Remove steam heating fitment from side of firebox (only fitted in preservation) Detail copper pipes and chimney cap as copper not black or brass Plus some painting, weathering and coaling to represent the loco in mid 1962 condition, when it was occasionally loved and cleaned but not pristine. OK, so just a few things to do! Some of these are pretty regularly done and I've drawn inspiration from the work of Tim Shackleton, George Dent and several others no doubt. But I have about 1% of their expertise (if I am generous), so here we go...... Extra weight: Front of smokebox filled with liquid gravity, set with superglue I made up a plasticard container for more liquid gravity, as I had no idea which wires to cut and join, and maybe I might go DCC at some stage in the future so I thought it best to work around the DCC socket than remove it. Strips of lead tape in firebox. There is not much room anywhere in the 9F body so you need to be careful to check constantly. That's the first bit! Next bit...... Loco to tender coupling. I wasn't happy with the cavernous gap using the standard drawbar, so I used a variation on Tony Wright's method. I've done 4 Bachmann 9Fs this way now and it really works. No problems round curves or through points, and no problems with heavy loads. Loco end - remove the drawbar, which is a fiddle. Fabricate a small figure of 8 from 0.45 nickel silver wire to fit over the mounting for the drawbar. Tender: attach a length of the same wire to the drawbar post, extend it through the hole and make into a hook as shown. Also need to file down the tender buffers quite some way - maybe 3 mm - to the step that is clearly visible. I'll show how much of an effect this has later. Front end: Comet front steps with diagonal rear bracing are much more prototypical and stronger than the Bachmann ones. They do need trimming before careful fixing with epoxy Many 9Fs, 92220 among them, had a front coupling with an extra link. These are from Albert Goodall and fiddly but exquisite! Most carried the bottom link hooked over the shackle. White metal vac pipe from I don't know where, maybe Brassmasters (but it is the right shape and detail). There is a characteristic mounting bracket which is hopefully as twisted on the prototype as on mine. WR pattern lamp irons from an etch of the same I picked up on ebay. Smokebox door dart from Gibson. Lifting rings are from Brassmasters mixed pipe flanges, one of which comes out just the right size. Buffer shank steps from Brassmasters too, spares from the Black 5. I tried to file down the obese lump for the steam heating pipe, and got somewhere with it, even if not completely removed. Front bogie: I followed George Dent's advice in a MR magazine. NEM pocket cut off. Plasticard and plastic tube damper. 3 bolt offcuts for the springs. It isn't perfect at all, and it was hard to fit together, but it will do. I do have a Brassmasters front pony , which will replace this in time but it is scary to look at.......! Iain