woodyfox

I would suggest exercising some caution using the expanding foam. I've used it recently to fill some gaps in an outdoor building. It's nasty stuff and not too good for your health if precautions aren't taken. A quick internet search highlights some of the risks. Using it on a model where you are going to cut it, sand it and generally be near it for extended periods might not be too good for your health.

Power was varied via a load regulator. Any power steps on the recording would be the various phases of power governed by the regulator.

I always use blackening fluid on wheels, buffers and screw couplings. The key to success is very clean, grease free metal. I wear vinyl gloves for safety and to prevent my own natural skin oils transferring. I then scrub the subject with warm soapy water and then wipe over with a bud soaked in methylated spirit. I then dry off and apply the fluid using another bud. I then rinse in water and dry. I've not found any appreciable electrical resistance. I do 'buff' the wheel tread for purposes of appearance.

Some issues at Leeds. Hurrell and Dwyer are the bright lights in a dark place for them at the moment. I think they're missing Ryan Hall for some punch down the flanks and haven't recruited well. That aside, they have enough quality to turn it round. Rovers played the best I've seen for a couple of years and really need to stay fairly injury free now to get some consistency. Lunt's return has had an impact and Maguire seemed to be trying too hard in the first few games. He looks like he's relaxed to enjoy his last season now.

DJH supplied the parts for Hatchette. You could approach them directly or obtain their instructions for their original version.

Now gone.

Hull KR season holder here... ...for my sins!

Yes still available, yours if you want it? Cheers

Hi all, I have a layout that been hanging around my garage for a couple of years. It's in need a some minor repairs (only wiring and slightly warped card back scene. It measures 9 feet by 20 ins total on 2 boards (no legs). Peco code 55 track work with about 10 storage roads (max 3ft). It also has a run-round yard, private siding and 4 platform terminus. All points are wire in tube slide switch with live frogs. It has a Gaugemaster T1 transformer with socket for a walkabout W1 controller. It's about 50% scenically complete. Track is ballasted and weathered. Analogue control. Free to anyone to collect. First come first served, however I would be hugely grateful if the collector would make a donation to this charity as below having due regard to the generosity of this offer and value of the layout. https://www.freddiesfriends.org/ Thank you.

Hi, I would try sticking them to low tack masking tape (reversed) in the sequence and alignment needed. Apply some varnish to the model. When tacky add the tape with letters. Might work. At worst you just sand the residue back off.

Lovely job on the DTCL. I found the window vents a real pain to bend on the etched lines. I would strongly advise supporting them from behind when folding up. Bend each side to about 45 degrees and then nip up both with some long nose pliers. Are you planning to add light to the destination blinds?

Hi, Mine had a similar profile. You have two options in my experience: 1. If it's just .5mm then a gradual sanding down to match will work. If you choose to do this, I would build the body first to check profiles once adhesives have fully cured to see how they have affected the plastic. You may find different areas require work. 2. Just leave it as it's a door seam and may assist in highlighting that fact on the finished article. Hope this helps? Please note the cab section requires an angled removal of material to allow a snug fit where the cab roof meets the side (cab door section). I also filed a small 45 deg angle at the top of the door sections to highlight the seam/opening. Cheers

Those gears look to have a pot of grease on them! The original looks to have been quite well replicated by Heljan. Good luck with this one. I hope to be starting on the DJH version in the new year.

As an aside, the two part putty 'Miliput' plus other brands are used under water (seawater) by aquatic hobbyists to secure delicate corals to rocks. It sets off under water and is entirely non toxic. Apologies for a minor diversion.

Aberdeen's production of a futuristic theme was really good. Congratulations to all involved. Very worthy winners.

Hi, Thanks for the responses. The roof is not just asbestos but the cement sheet stuff. The structure has actually been quite well maintained and is dry and well ventilated as it stands. Thanks once again.

Hi Chris. Thanks for your reply. A substantial body of evidence exists that suggests this type of building is entirely convertible. Your assertion suggests you have a personal experience. Would you be able to expand upon your assertion and provide a reasoning for such a view? Thanks

Hi all, It appears that a new project for 2019 will be the conversion of a pre-fab concrete garage with pitched, corrugated asbestos roof into an insulated space for a railway project. I've done some research into the way to achieve a decent room but one question remains. Is there a requirement for some level of ventilation to and from the insulated room? I assume something airtight is as bad as mixing cold and warm moist air? Has anyone any experience of such a project? I'll be insulating the floor, walls and putting in a false ceiling using king span in between batons overlaid with OSB board. The resulting usable space will be around 16 feet by 12 feet. Thanks in anticipation.

I have 2. A less than five category or a pitiful effort category would have been good.

Richie, Unfortunately you're pretty much stuck with sleeper spacing on Peco points, one of the reasons for my scratchbuilding attempts. Regards

Hi Richie, My choice of choosing N scale was the increase in quality and variety available over the last 20 years. I'm not bothered about sound either and find DDC lighting on stock to be the wrong colour and way too bright. With 4mm OO gauge, space soon disappears if you wish to follow mainline practice or any prototype location. Sleeper spacing can be resolved by cutting the webbing between the sleepers and sliding them out to between 26 to 30 per scale 60' length depending on the line modelled. You should lose 12 to 15 over a metre of track. Ultimately it's your choice based upon what appeals the most. Track detailing varies with whether you're depicting manual or electronic signalling and the Peco points can be trimmed of their plastic block parts without damaging their operation in any scale. Removing the spring is fine too if you are using a Fulgarex et.al type motor to hold the blades over. I attempted to scratch build N gauge point work using copperclad from Marcway and Peco code 60 rail but failed to get good, consistent running through my homemade frogs. Regards

Glad it's been helpful. I've enjoyed building it immensely. I'm going to list it for sale on EBay now to raise funds for other interests so if you need any further help it will be from memory! Regards

It's not a snug fit between the side and cab but I concluded that maybe by design as the seam represents a door/body interface. If not by design, the effect I found to be fortuitous to representing such. I maybe worth considering whether the roof panel etch is applied prior to fixing the roof to the body too. You'll certainly need numerous clamps to hold it all together.

Al, That roof does sit very proud in the top centre doesn't it? From your other models, I assume you'll be doing a refurbished set? In my experience you have two choices: Sand down the bottom edges of the roof and redo the rain strip with plastic section (you have to fabricate some above the cab doors anyway). The drawback is that you also lose the inside step that gives a good square seating on the side, leaving a butt joint. Option two involves reducing the thickness at the apex of the roof by sanding. This involves a lot of extra mind numbing sanding of course! The only other option I very briefly considered was to obtain some sheet brass and bend a new roof. It's a real issue caused primarily by the unique shallow roof profile of the Met Camm group of units. Great start, all the best of luck with it.

Thanks Duncan, the build is very involved. I attempted, in this résumé, to try and highlight the areas in which I either deviated from the recommended building process; added extra detailing or, felt the instructions were silent. Thanks and regards