Phil S

what is causing the 'flickering' on the green wire ? ... if it is the firebox led assembly /module - then there is no reason the front light could not be on the same connector ... in parallel; each with their own resistance, and total (well under) the 100mA limit of all functions.

With open collector and pull-down for active, then there should be no problem leaving them as supplied ie directional ... (It wouldn't matter, either, if both ended up on at the same time ... simply half the current would pass through each switch ... not affecting the total current load of motor, sound and Lighting.)

Although I don't have that particular version - I have assembled a couple of the kit versions that use a perspex case (inc or extra depending on source) .... It should be useful and sufficient for the purpose - (and clearly demonstrate that DCC is an ac signal). It does not appear to INCLUDE a battery compartment - but has the on/off switch: you may therefore find it useful to order a (9V shown in one photo) battery enclosure to stick onto the rear of the case. This kind of display is also useful to build-in to a layout, as permanent monitoring ( in the same way I have Rrampmeters for each power district, and an NCE Dcc reader to read actual track data. IT IS NOT for decoding the DCC data, but normally looking at the amplitude and quality of the basic waveform - the scope can trigger easily to show 1 or 2 cycles. The NCE reader can provide the decode if desired. A cheap complementary item would be a 0-30Vdc 'car' voltmeter module ( 4gbp ) and bridge rectifier - giving track voltage - 1.2V ... but does not show noise on the signal, and these fail when there is a Railcom cutout (although a capacitor after the bridge rectifier would probably solve that)

I'm still hoping that the ability to import a background image will reappear ... If only to assist in laying out an overall scheme tidily and efficiently. ( Adding in the animated points and track on top of scenery and platforms etc). Note that, although their examples always showed photos of parts of the layout, they can equally be ANY jpg image ... Such as from a drawing package allowing easy drawing and labelling of the layout .... (Eg edited pictures) But having said that, the newest version CAN produce some reasonable looking track results ... But it is a bit tedious producing 180degree rotated viewpoint versions as there is no overall rotate/move control ( that I have discovered ). The multiple page approach and 'locked' display modes are useful. So far, we tend to use the tablet (10.6") as the track display with Multimaus for loco control ....

Are not many if not most Point CDUs able to work off a dc input ( probably ac as well ) and therefore I am wondering if there really is a requirement for a low voltage ac supply for the op's purpose? The Super Shuttle unit appears to use the 16vac input purely for internal power ... the track 12vDC is separate. With energy efficiency in mind, wouldn't a suitable SMPS be better for the purpose? I'm also surprised that Gaugemaster is still permitted to sell a traditional transformer for model railway use ... since its new and not a 'spare part' ... as all these are supposed to be more energy /efficient smps nowadays .... perhaps that is the true reason for having the 16Vac output as part of it ?? (For comparison, the Roco Multimaus's Amplifier (Power) Module used to say 16Vac input, but accepted dc ... and they later changed the labelling to match....and an SMPS with 18V dc output replaced the 16Vac transformer. Internally, the power input was followed by a full wave rectifier of 6A rating) IN THE PHOTO of the circuit board, the item suggested to be a capacitor is possibly a protective PTC surge protector????? (suggested by the diagonal line across the body ... unusual for a ceramic cap but more common on surge protection?? 9

If the intent is to run an AC locomotive (H0) the answer may be simpler still... IF MARKLIN then, depending on its age, it may have either an ac coil-based electromagnet, or later models have a high efficiency permanent magnet motor. Replacement magnet assemblies ( 2 sizes for H0 ... 18mm or 19mm diamter windings approx, and a larger one for gauge 1 ) are economically available 'off the shelf' from ESU, OR a full conversion kit from Marklin which inludes a new 5-pole winding ( replacing the 3-pole original, and 2 new carbon brushes and brusholder/faceplate ) A multistandard decoder may be included too - sound or silent = price varies!!. Discard the solenoid direction changeover unit, and fit your preferred decoder or run dc analogue. aka Hornby Dublo 3-rail. [Wheels can be insulated too ! I use a slice of plastic straw to insulate the side without attached gears] If a Roco 'ac' loco - then it is really a dc loco/motor with centre pickup .... simply remove the centre pickup from the 'trailing'/unpowered bogie, and move 2 of the wheel pickup wires to the other side of the pcb ... ie 2 each side, 1 in each corner. If decoder is 'old' eg a Lenz900, simply use a new Lenz decoder or go analogue dc. Note that the dc-model's drive to the 2nd bogie is omitted to give space for the centre pickup. Wheels may also be coarser and benefit from a back to back tweak. If a modern ESU loco ... simply switch to 2 rail and remove the centre pickup.. they are dual standard, with multiprotocol decoders. PS- re the audio amp ... I think the motor works okay on 12V... possibly less, but a dc dc converter for the amp was an option ... i was planning using a class d amp... not worried about too much distortion, but RobjUK's pump board looks like an ideal 1 board solution for my Faller Fairground Application ( or some of their windmills and level crossings all using / used synchronous ac motors )

If your '16Vac' requirement is similar to ours; this approach may be of interest. We have a Carousel/Gallopers/Roundabout from Faller which uses a synchronous AC motor (50-60 Hz) circa 12-16Vac . This is now the ONLY device REQUIRING a 50-60Hz AC supply.... As most Veismmann e-motion figures etc can be run from DC ( as well as AC ) we are removing the 16Vac bus from our portable layout... It was originally used to power Lenz LS150 accessory decoders - but these have all been replaced by Train-Tech CDU decoders which run from the DCC bus. There are several ready-made modules available which use the 8038 waveform generator IC ... This can be set to around the required frequency, and a sine wave output selected. The board output is probably designed to feed into something over 600 -1000 ohms ( audio input ... But may be okay as low as 75 - 50 ohms ( RF coax ?? ) Similarly cheap 12Vdc powered Audio Amplifiers are available with 2-3W output ... Into lower impedances ( loudspeakers ) .... But the Carousel motor should hopefully be similar. This should also offer, within a limited range, the possibility of slowing the roundabout by trying say 40Hz. I have the parts in stock for this... But we are still in the process of setting the whole layout up in its new home in the garage, and swapping that part over is a few weeks away. ( If it doesn't work ... The modules have other uses available ) perhaps on on the inverter module suggested .... It should read 500mW ??? ( I've not yet followed that link ). And similarly the 20kHz is a reference to the chopping/ conversion frequency used to reconstruct the 50/60Hz sine wave output ???

Does the DJM J94 have lots of capacitors around the motor - between motor terminals AND motor terminals to chassis as some (if not all) Bachmann locos do ? This I believe has been a cause of eratic running and/or back emf control problems .... but I don't have a DJM loco. But it ounds as if it needs attention in any case 8-(

Do you have anything like a PSX or NCE circuit breaker installed between your controller and the programming / track ?? When clearing the (programming) track or track for programming are ALL OTHER DEVICES removed??? not just other locos but accessory decoders, and other devices using the dcc bus for power ??? ... these could all be corrupting the read-back of the single decoder being sought. eg a filter or snubber or street lighting. But as said elewhere - a totally separate piece of track powered only for programming ... and all else disconnected eg via a DPDT switch.. is strongly recommended. If you want to keep records of all your settings, then the dedicated Sprog is an economical and effective solution.

Other CVs can just as easily be set to any value .... Either by leading the decoder manual if factory values are absolutely required, or by simply using sensible guesses .... But If you are not even controlling the loco with an address there is little purpose in the reset..... Reading CVs is not a requirement to programming a loco address OR adjusting most of its fundamental CVS. More complex function settings should be done by referring to the manual rather than any value left in from a different loco !! Programming without read back is also faster !

Having just written a wiring-suggestion below - I decided to ask a new question first .... IF your TTS decoder is located in the TENDER - along with the speaker - then a cheap, 2nd, silent decoder may be your easiest and most optimum solution - avoiding extra wires between loco and tender, and therefore allowing the loco and tender to be separated during servicing etc. A 2nd decoder will give you more freedom to choose a suitable F number (not that Hornby have left many unused !) ... you could even use a differnt loco addess ! ( and a function decoder .... but loco decoders tend to be more economical and available) However - you may have made use of the space within the Mallard Bodyshell for the speaker+decoder. So, with the Green wire already in use, the white wire allocated to your other forward lamps ??? - and directional FORWARD on ... the normal suggestion is 2 diodes and 1 resistor ( 1N4148 are small and cheap and adequae, but any small diode will do ) Wiring Path: Blue Positive (also going to your Firebox light.....) to a 1k-2k resistor* [AOT] From Resistor to Modern Lamp LED+ve --- follow maker's guidance on which colour wire is +ve/-ve) From -ve side of LED to BOTH diodes ( end without band ) From each diode ( end with band ) to either the White or Yellow wires (these are pulled to local 0V when the Function is 'on') *AOT Adjust on Test - brightness preferred will depend on your ambient lighting level and how efficent the LED used by the 'Modern Lamp' maker is ....new LED designs are much brighter than older types.

Why not simply programme CV1 or long address with whatever value you DO want??? Surely no need to via re setting ! You shluld not need to know an existing address to change address on a PROGRAMMING TRACK (PoM is a different matter) .... and you havn't stated which method you are trying to use.

Whether 'Left' or 'Right' or 'Up' or 'Down' is 'Forward' is not a 'fixed' situation !!! Now ALTERABLE WITH A SETTING IN Z21 APP - SETTINGS 'Driving Direction Reversed' [On/Off] Perhaps from AC 3-rail beginning - where a Push / pull back below zero, TOGGLES direction - the knob always increasing clockwise, or whether buttons are pushed, knobs turned or sliders slid .... varies for all. (Gas and Electric Hobs/Ovens turn their controls opposite ways - or used to) This reminds me of a statement in the Hornby Select Manual, as I recall ; 'Forward' is the Left facing arrow because trains run to the left' or similar meaningless statement 8-) !! Whilst this was claimed to represent a typical train at a platform .... but assuming UK rules of driving on the left, and an outside platform - it would be the opposite for an island platform, some countries whose railways were not built by British engineers, or those running over public roads, and all Terminal Stations half the time .... [I recall a 3-level station in Brussells with trams-below ground, metro below ground on the middle level, and mainline railways on the lowest level .... the direction of trams and mainline being opposite ( can't recall about the Metro ) With the default setting and historical path though Multimaus > Multimaus Pro /MCP > Z21 with Multimaus and WLANMultimaus, Forward has always followed the principle of Western Writing ... ie from left to right >> Right arrow = forwards, and left facing arrow = reverse. Tape/Cassette Decks similarly; the international Forward symbol is an Arrowhead to the Right Zimo handsets use a vertical slider.... but a 'BBC' Audio mixer faded the opposite way to all others... so that if you collapsed over the controls, you faded OUT not UP ! I was not, originally, aware of Lenz being 'different' as their original Maus1 - used by Roco Arnold and LGB, and maybe more, behaves the same way ... Forward = Right Arrow. BUT THEN I bought an early escape/release of Massoth's Xpressnet adapter and found it 'reversed' 'Left/Right' point settings ... but then there is yet another problem or option ... Normal or Reverse ! When using a touch screen (Rocomotion, RR+Co, iTrain etc) a single Click is usually used to change (toggle) a point ....so whether a 'left or 'right' command is 'not relevent' to the USER once it is configured to be 'in phase' with the point, it will respond correctly whether operated from a handheld or the touch screen. With Multimmauses, or a phone/tablet - the direction of loco/point is shown graphically. The on-screen <=> Speed control of RR+Co matches the Roco Handsets - in my experience.... I got nowhere suggesting he offered a vertical option to avoid the 'left' / 'right' confusions... When points were connected with 'analogue' solenoids driven by Decoder outputs - they were easily corrected at installation to be left/right or whatever, as desired - the wires, or Roco plug being symmetrical allowing reversal. Roco Digital Point Motors used with their Rocoline-with trackbed Double Slips FORCED the use of 'Normal v Reverse' symbolism of point control .... matching the handset graphic of I on the left button and r on the right button (Straight and deviant/reversed) ... otherwise also readable as l for left, and r for right 8-) .... Then Veissmann released their 4550 alternative digital point motor, and for the Rocoline .. it worked in reverse to the Roco standard (so I used them where I WANTED 'reversed' operation by default because of the way I paired crossovers ... otherwise having to use an analogue point motor for the problem point). Their later release provides the user with an option ... very useful. (The NEW release of Roco Digital Point Motors for Rocoline with Trackbed is now RAILCOM COMPATIBLE - but the old type are not. The Veismman 4550's all have Railcom responses available. I cannot recall whether the new Roco Digital Point motors allow the phasing to be reversed. Back to the original Left / Right question .... Many people have an oval layout ... what is to the left in the foreground is to the right in the background.... the steam loco will be visibly pointing the other way. With wireless handsets we walk around our shunting puzzles/ linear layouts .... but the perspective of 'direction' changes from each viewpoint, and is not always immediately obvious with diesels, electrics and MUs which way is 'forward'. Something in common with Loco Shunting in Sweden... (We learnt this summer, that in Sweden, the Red and Yellow striped marker on a loco is NOT an 'end of train' or 'do not move' marker, but is used to identify the 'FRONT' end for all hand-shunting commands. [or the red light at the 'rear' ] (They also do a lot of wireless shunting - with the driver carrying an R/C set and jumping on and off wagons...) So the conclusion is... there is not set 'correct' indication CV29 odd/even is one option for loco change or use 'Driving Direction Inverted' in the Z21 settings App ... for the loco But for points / signals ... the App only offers the config/mapping screen on a point by point basis.

With the Roco Multimaus Family, the 'STOP' button on each individual handset can be set to 1 of 3 options: Stop and remove power from the layout, Stop (Broadcast Zero Speed) but keep track power and rather usefully STOP ONLY YOUR currently controlled LOCO - leaving all others running unaffected. With our shunting puzzles (G Scale) - which we get the visitors to operate - they find it useful (when they realise) that if the STOP is local to only their controller ( and we set it so it is, so as they don't stop other trains running on the 'distractor' track at the back ) - as they can stop their loco PRECISELY at the position where the uncoupling ramp has released the wagon - from which they can then restart the loco in the opposite direction without risk of recoupling. We always operate with 1 cabled controller - as an emergency backup - and this is probably set to to stop all ( either of the first 2 options ) ... and the wireless handsets can then be stop only your own... HOWEVER - care has to be taken of the battery-saving time-out option which switches the handset off ... and this CAN cause the whole system to STOP. (Again an option). On the shunting puzzle, locos are programmed down to only 1/4 to 1/2 normal speed range. Some inertia is programmed ... use the 'shunting button' would be inappropriate as they are always shunting. (I always think it was a bad error that Hornby omitted CV5 from their basic loco decoder !!) A 'downside' of programmed inertia CAN be that the operator simply uses the knob as a pre-set maximum speed switch [ much like driving a modern emu ??? ] - relying on the programmed inertia to provide the smoothing. 'DIRECT' CONTROL' - in the hands of someone trying to simulate a real loco - can be used effectively. I have found the CONFLICT to be when a loco is intended to be operated by computer - especially if it has sound - is that the computer wants micro-control (direct drive) but the sound file is best driven with appropriate slugging to match. ... perhaps such stock is not intended to be moved between layouts.

No - ZTC used the Mini-Din same size as S-Video BUT 8 PIN version ( even though only 4 needed in the slave scenario) ... I thought it would be 6 pin, but i've just viewed an original ZTC511 brochure on line ... clearly states 8 Pin "8 pin mini DIN socketsExtended Lenz X-Bus protocol" FOUND LINK TO DIAGRAM: http://terdina.net/rails/xpressCable.htm Where you will find the following drawn neatly in a table.... with images The following table reports the pins assignment of each type of plug. XpressNET™ signals A B C* D* L M and Not used Meaning RS485 A RS485 B [Control Bus] +12 Volts Ground RJ-12 pins Data A: 4 Data B: 3 1 6 12V: 5 Gnd: 2 DIN-5 pins Data A: 4 Data B: 5 - - 12V: 1 Gnd: 3 not used 2 miniDIN-8 pins Data A: 3 Data B: 2 [5] [ 6] 12V: 8 Gnd: 1 not used 4 + 7 NOTE the comments on the linked site about the 'viewpoint' of the MiniDin Connections !

When used in slave mode I don't recall it having ANY output .... But it was many years ago that I swapped from having the ztc511 as a master .... Then slave ... Then sold. When it was the Master ... If stop was used from a multimaus, i had to go across to the 511 to clear it .... Which was plainly ridiculous as a way of working when with the multimaus family you can do anything from any handset. Wiring diagrams for the ztc din connection have been published here before.

There was a similar device from Lima which was effectively a mono speaker ( as in car stereo of the period ) with a pair of 'sense wires' fed from the controller track output, and a lower supply. 2 knobs provided volume and sensitivity/tuning control . it output steam chuffs .... I have 2 in the loft unused ( except once) since Zero-1 was released. More advanced sound generators were available from Codar - a controller manufacturer ....which also used HF to add the whistles to a loco. Argo Transacord was a series of LPs ( 12" vinyl with modulated grooves run at 33rpm: predating cassettes reel to reel or CDs DAT minidisc and streaming ) with recordings of trains and locos etc.

You may be confusing the situation which applied with the Basic Roco Amplifier ...'764. Which is/was identical electrically to the separately available ( at the time) Booster ...... This was a great advantage to know because Digital Start Sets were relatively cheap to buy .....and their amplifier could be used as a Booster without any modification . When used as the MASTER unit .... Whichever Multimaus was plugged in to the MASTER socket is the MASTER DCC generator, AND the source of remembered values ....such as point/signal position , active loco names and function status. The LIBRARY of 64 named locos is separate iñ each Multimaus ...but can be copied between them at any time. ONLY the Multimaus plugged In to the MASTER socket NEEDS and USES the 6 cores of the cable ..... Slaves only use 4 of the 6. Booster link is 4 pole. Further multimauses and other xpressnet handsets ( including a Ztc511 via an adapter lead ) also including Lenz, Hornby Select can àll be plugged in to the SLAVE port. And daisy chained. ( including a PC interface ) .... Maximum 32 handsets. .... Note some might use manual addressing, some are automatic and others fixed. WHEN USED as. BOOSTER : It uses its own power supply ... Not shared .... And ÑO connection is made using either Master or Slave sockets. The LINK is made by the 'in/out' booster connections: this is a PASSIVE loop through .....here is no difference between the on labelled 'in' or 'out' on the 'booster' boxed version. ......and on the amplifier version the 'in' socket is simply not fitted at manufacture: You have a choice of adding it yourself ( including opening the box and soldering ) OR MORE SIMPLY by using an External Y adapter .... Additional notes of relevance: The amplifier / booster does NOT provide voltage adjustment .... It follows the input supply ( up to the dcc limit ). An 18V. DC SMPS 'brick' is recommended ( and now supplied by Roco ). 3.5_ 4A max is suitable. This will then give a fixed track voltage of 16V 'DCC'. ( this may show as a different voltage with some voltmeters ....but is the 0- flatpeak amplitude of the ac DCC track signal. With the old transformer the track voltage could rise to 22V .....which is still less than the acfual peak voltage from a '12Vdc' output from an H&M analogue controller !!!!!! ( both when 'off load' ) Boosters should match the Amplifier's power supply voltage to ensure no change of speed at a boundary between districts. Phase MAY need to be swapped at the booster 'track output' connector to ensure the matching phase and no short at a boundary. The use of the earlier '761 and its transformer with white power tabs is NOT recommended as it has different internal circuitry with poorer protection. The 764 amplifier and matching booster do not support railcom ....the z/Z21 family Does. The NEW rocoline embedded digital point motors NOW are okay with RAilcom ... The OLD original production type ( of which I have many¡ ) are NOT railcom compatible. .... Therefore my loft layout does not benefit from railcom .... So i will probably continue to use multicentralepro ...... And my Z21 will continue to find itself used on our portable G scale layouts along with multimauses and tablet track plans ( but no railcom) ....although I have bought 1 digikeijs railçom module to try on a layout. For anyone starting now .... I can strongly recommend the Z21 family. ..... But I also retain my 'heritage' systems as they still work well.

IF you wanted to modify the basic setup so that the tail lights were independent eg off when hauling coaches/wagons in the UK - this would use 4 functions - and the green and violet wires would come into use - by default on a SILENT decoder as F1 and f2 in many cases* (with white and yellow as fwd and rev directional lighting by default... for example disconnecting the tail lights from operating on F0 with directional headlights .. and changing them to operate from green and violet instead ( you MIGHT be able to use existing series resisitors with LED lights, but otherwise simply use another resistor in series with each fof the green and violet wires - abput 1k - 2k2 is likely to be correct - depending on your chosen/existing LEDs ...modern LEDs are much brighter than oldr types! (very different and unchangeable number(s) on TTS decoders - but the same colour options

The 'diy' solution would be to use a 1mm (approx) modelling drill it in a hand held pin vice ....probably after cutting off the 'blip', and then making a starter hole to help locate the drill bit. Then a pre-wired SMD LED glued to the rear ....inside the body shell. If you had any fibre optic strand, you could feed it through the hole ( and the fibre size would dictate the minimum hole size ) before fitting the smd led behind it.....otherwise A single drop of liquid glaze or poly cement Readily available sizes of prewired smd can be found on eBay and also from eg Digikeijs and DCC concepts. Buying pre-wired is much easier than trying to solder your own .... Especially with the smaller sizes. ( which I use for 'door unlocked/open lights but then I put the smd led on the outside, and pass the wires through the hole ) They are available 'with' or 'without' resistors .....sometimes the resistors are separate in the pack ( otherwise the wires could not be passed through fine holes... As needed when I use them as rectangular door lights) YOU will then still have to make the connection at the 8 pin socket to the holes/pins used by the green (-ve ) and blue (+ve) Connections .... Nothing premade is available for such a specific task that I am aware of. If you are unwilling to solder ...then ask via your local model shop if whoever they use for decoder fitting would do the job. Otherwise, premade 'lamps' in 00 are available .. Search DCC concepts site?

Have you also checked 'no loco' on the programming track with both controllers to see if it is 000 or 255 that is then displayed ??? (it may be that the pulse represents a 0 and not a 1 read back ... if both then produce 255, then it implies that there is NO readback working on the 2nd hand controller >>> return to dealer ? (You may have to remove the loco from the program track in the middle of the reading back pulses to defeat any 'no loco on track' detection from an open circuit. Or try the resistor only across the track with no loco. There is now an NMRA recommendation for the maximum expected current during readback ... which is often exceeded by larger scale locos -- hence the advice from Lenz to add the series resistor to reduce the current 'into range' ... presumably a threshold which decides high or low (1 bit A to D conversion) A total failure suggests a failed sense resistor (if you can see inside - is there a blackened or broken resistor connected to the program connection???? Your result suggests the opposite of adding the resistor is needed .. hence the probability of ta broken connection internally.

Just a guess...but 255 implies reading '1' back each pulse?? .. whilst the other unit is receiving (valid) 1's and 0's. .....to me this suggests that the pulse current is too high for it to distinguish between 1 and 0 levels? ..... If you have a 100ohm resistance to add in series with the programming track it may give a better result ....this is the sort of solution suggested for Lens/Roco when they have reading problems ( often also associated with larger scale motors.... Taking too much current from the programmer ....not the problem here. Alternatively the opposite is the case and the 255 represents total failure to detect Amy read back. ( you could compare this by lifting the loco off, and seeing what number results .... Until it stops with an error ) If you then determine this is a (read back fault) condition... Then it may be worth looking for a damaged sense resistor or similar . ( and returning it to the dealer)

raf69's point was that programming a decoder may need a motor load with some controllers. operationally afterwards its not a problem as the hst is not a steam loco with chuffs to synchronise with speed. Depending on the length of your hst .... are the ends far enough apart to notice the dual source sound???? ... for years at 100gbp/time i only had 1 SWT loksound in each of my hsts ... but had considered wiring a speaker through ....but the cost of power couplings (if not also being needed for lighting) was almost the cost of another loksound .... the Hornby solution is much more affordable ( or was, especially when they were dumping the Virgin TTS version )