tyl59

Are spare tender bodies available to buy anywhere? I have a second Manor now (7824) and the one I'm wanting to renumber it to had a Rivetted tender and Narrow horn guides, Id just need the rivetted unlined black early crest tender body.

I put a slightly modified 20x20x7 in the smokebox and then wired another 4 wires to the tender utilising the other 2 wires for a firebox flicker too, with an additional 8ohm speaker in the tender it sounds fantastic.

Sorry I didn't get notified about this, weirdly it improved by fitting a chip to it. runs like a dream now

I've bought 4 of them in various guises, with another two on order in the GE train pack. The only issue I have seen is the First and Third Class on the GER as preserved one is at the wrong end, Third is at the bar or Handbrake end of the vehicle and first is at the other end.

https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/lner-later-lettering-numbering-for-garter-blue-and-green-locos-61494 Fox do gold leaf transfers

Just received and tested my SFX 37418 from Kernow, lovers model and the detail is perfect, fuel tanks look parallel to me. The sound on the other hand is awful. Sounds like something the Red Box Manufacturer would do with Toy Town Sound. The horns are pathetic, being a short blip when the loco is stationary and similar to a Toy Town Sound chip when moving. The vibration seems to be from a plate between the 28mm speaker and the PCB. This should be sealed! Ive programmed it and sat it on the track and without pressing anything the loco started up on its own and then refused to be quiet while being on the track, I’ve had this issue before, funnily enough on a Bachmann 158 also Zimo but never on an ESU decoder.

I have used a small amount of Matt Varnish to apply these. As the varnish dries it pulls it closer to the model and allows plenty of time to adjust it

I haven’t informed Hornby yet as I wanted to check this first. I’ll contact them later today on this though. there seems to be no issue with the chassis everything looks in shape and intact

Has anyone had issues with the newest Hornby Class 31 D5509 (R3661) noticed a very fine Mazak style crack appear on mine. Have removed the body from the chassis to stop it increasing. I’m happy to be proven wrong on this.

Hi Has anyone received a new Bachmann 121 where the motor is very loud, I had one which was noisy and started to bed down but then stopped working, sent this back and have now got a second one but this is still very loud after almost 3 hours running in. The sound seems to be coming from the shaft between the motor and the wheels. Has anyone else had this issue?

Hi all I'm looking at removing the body from a Hornby Shark to paint it, does anyone know how it comes off? Many Thanks TYL59

Hi im looking at purchasing two factory fitted sound locos and I am wondering what version of chip is in them 32-480DS Class 40 D211 Mauretania 32-034DS Class 20 D8138 Many Thanks

Hello I have fitted some Bachmann 36-553 chips into some Bachmann locos, all worked perfectly before chipping, and upon returning to speed step 0 they all speed up and do two revolutions at a faster speed rather than stop smoothly. This is happening in certain locos and fitting the chip in another engine the fault is no longer present so far it’s happened on Bachmann K3 Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0 Standard 4MT 2-6-0 56xx Ivatt 2 2-6-0 (chip in tender) Has anyone experienced this problem before. Does anyone have ideal CV values to stop this or what is causing it. Many thanks TYL59

Thank you for all your help My Dad had a repainted one he bought of eBay, but we decided that it didnt need fully working lights as its intended purpose is to be with a loco on the sharp end at all times we have replaced the unit between the both of them Many Thanks TYL59

I tested to see if the was any issue first by performing a continuity test over the spring contacts, the white one lit up but nothing for the red

This is the failed part, it’s attached to the cab detail moulding. The white LED works perfectly but the red one is U/S.

Hi, I have a R4472 W&S DVT where the Red tail light LED has failed,is there anywhere to obtain a replacement unit for one, I've looked on the Hornby Spares Website and Peters Spares all to no avail, the absence of a service sheet makes this more difficult to do, even a similar part from RS Components would suffice. Many Thanks TYL59

Hi I've tried straightening and bending them, all to no avail. still a jump in the movement. any other ideas?

I’ve taken all the gears and checked it. It’s just the rear wheel jerking. Take the conrods off and the rest are completely smooth. One gear was replaced. As it was loose on the axle and not turning.

Hi I have on the workbench at the moment a Hornby R2585 West Country 34045 Ottery st Mary, I've managed to get it running again, (it was in a very bad state) but the rear driving wheel set jumps at a certain point every revolution, the front two are unhindered, the rear axle is driven by the con rods from the front two sets of drivers. Having taken it apart again I cant see anything which may be causing it, it sounds like the wheel sets have a flat at high speed, but they've just been replaced by new ones direct from Hornby, (the originals had moved on the axle and had lost quartering and the ability to stay in gauge!) A small YouTube video is linked. its noticeable for what its doing at slow speeds yet noticeable by sound at high speeds. the video is unlisted so only by clicking the link you should be able to see it. at the top left (10-11) there is a small jump, any ideas what may be causing this is greatly appreciated Many Thanks