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pete_mcfarlane

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Blog Entries posted by pete_mcfarlane

  1. pete_mcfarlane
    The EPB has now had a coat of Railmatch etch primer over the brass bits, and a couple of coats of Halfords white aerosol primer.

    It's now been rubbed down to remove the usual blobs of glue etc that models seem to accumulate, and is awaiting another coat of primer.
  2. pete_mcfarlane
    Some pictures of the detailed Hornby 73 - now with lots of bits of wire and plastic attached to the bogies to represent the various cables etc. The 73/0 has vast numbers of cables on it's bogies, far more than the production loco.


     

     
     
    The roof mounted horns are from A1 and are soldered to a mounting plate to hopefully make them a bit more robust.
     
    It's taken a lot of work to get this far - the 73/0 looks superficially similar to the 73/1 but there are a huge number of detail differences which the Hornby model ignores.
  3. pete_mcfarlane
    I bought this kit at an exhibition at the old BAe site in Hatfield in Autumn 1996 (my last year at University!). So sometimes kits from the great kit mountain do get built, rather than sitting forever in the cupboard or endlessly changing hands on Ebay.
     
    Now at last it's finished!
     

     
    The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is the fit of the roof - it's OK, but not brilliant. I'll work on this on subsequent 2-Bils, as I've been buying up a stock of the kits now that they are (temporarily?) available again. 3 more Bils and a couple more to turn in to 2-Hals should fllow of the next few years.
     
    The 73/0 is nearly painted - just some touching up of the blue and the jumper cables to do, then it will be time for transfers.
  4. pete_mcfarlane
    The loco has now been painted. First several coats of dark grey (not black) paint and a red buffer beam. The Vallejo red paint covered incredibly well - two coats were enough to get decent coverage.

    The loco is modelled on a photo in the Bradford Barton album on Wainwright locos showing it in Southern livery, but recently renumbered with it's BR number which is still pretty clean. I added the HMRS southern lettering before doing any weathering to get this effect.

    The light colour streaks (Limescale?) were then added.

    Then several coats of thinned matt varnish, tinted with various combinations of grey and leather to give a dirty effect.

    I'm not sure if the area around the new numbers was repainted or just cleaned - I masked it off and painted it black.

    And then applied the numbers. The renumbering on the real thing must have been a rush job - the lack of symmetry is copied from the photo, and they didn't bother to give the loco a thorough clean first.

    Coal was added to the bunker - before varnishing so the matt varnish removes the unrealistic shiny glitter effect that you get with small lumps of coal. I'm still using a tub of crushed coal that my late Grandfather crushed and sorted. The custard tin has a best before date of 1978.

    And this is the loco ready for varnishing, with crew (Bachmann Scenecraft), fire irons, headcode disks and a few spare lamps. The plastic driver will be less shiny after a coat of varnish. He's staring in to space, mentally composing a letter to his ASLEF rep about his cab being full of motor.

  5. pete_mcfarlane
    I've finally taken some decent photos of the Chiver J class, in all it's late 1940s grottyness.




     
    I've also done some more work on the T1. Friday afternoon was spent constructing a replacement bogie out of nickel silver. I decided that the lump of whitemetal provided with the kit wasn't worth bothering with.

    The new bogie supports the rear end of the loco in a way unknown to the designers of 0-4-4T kits in the early 1980s. I had a good read of an Iain Rice article in an early MRJ, which whilst intended for a full compensated chassis is still relevant. The bogie slides in a slot to give it a decent amount of sideplay, which also involved enlarging the frame cut outs to clear the wheels (odd, considering this is designed for 1980s OO wheels with huge flanges running round train set curves). I've yet to experiment with side control springing - this can wait until pickups are fitted.
     
    All of the soldering on the body is now complete. I added a fair bit of extra detail, and then took a nice long shot so you can't see most of it. There are injectors under the cab, buffer beam detail and various other odds and ends. No steam pipes are fitted, as I'm basing this on photos of E75 taken in August 1930.

    I'm now fitting the castings. These need a fair amount of work to clean them up- most of them should be usable, but they aren't the greatest I've ever seen..
  6. pete_mcfarlane
    I've built yet another shock absorbing wagon - in this case a Red Panda Shock Van (bought off Ebay for a sensible price as this kit seems to be out of production). It's been completed as one of the batch with the shock absorber located between the frames and not visible.
    .
     
    It uses some rather nice case buffers from Lanarkshre model supplies, some Parkside solebars and the original Red Panda break gear.
     
    I've also finished the BR wooden Lowfit - actually about 2 months ago but it took me ages to get round to fitting the couplings This was built from various Parkside bits, mainly from their LNER Lowfit.

  7. pete_mcfarlane
    I'm slowly building the David Geen E83 Toplight brake composite, the last vehicle I need for the set of 1930s GWR through coaches to serve by one day to be built ex-SER branchline. The sides were a bit fiddly to put together, but include all of the good feature you want in a kit, including the door hinges etched as a single component per door, corridor handrail spacers and separate droplights.
     
    I've deviated slightly from the instructions and have assembled the basic body before adding the end detail. I'm not 100% satisfied with the joins betweens side and end, but some filler should hide most of the 0.2mm or so gaps.

     
    At the same time I've been building this D&S LSWR long horse box. It's one of the recently produced batch sold by Brasmasters. I built the short version about 10 years ago, and this went together in a similar way with no real problems. Unlike the 16' box I managed to get all of the brake gear in place - either I've got better at soldering or the extra wheelbase gives more room to solder. It's waiting the last few whitemetal castings.

     
    I've also been working on a few odd projects. The Parkside GWR Horsebox is a Parkside kit - I replaced or thinned down the over thick footsteps, and fitted MJT sprung buffers. But otherwise it's as per the kit. Unlike the vehicle next to it, which started out as a Ratio BR Banana van. It now has a new 9' underframe using MJT parts and ABS brake gear and represents a LMS meat van. The body hasn't needed altering.

     
    I've also detailed a pair of the recent Bachmann SR brakevans These are the left hand ducket variety, which for reasons unknown have the stove chimney on the wrong side. This was removed and a replacement made from plastic rod. The axleboxes were modified, as the real thing has a wider sloping front different type to the plate front examples on the Bachmann model (I don't think many of the real thing had this type - possibly they used an atypical preserved example as a base?). This was done by adding plastic strip to either side of the existing box, and then filing the front at an angle. I fitted the brake loops, but not the strangely shaped brake shoe linkages, fitting simple plastic rod replacements instead. Bachmann having cranked theirs, presumably to clear the couplers.

     
    Lastly, and right at the end of my time period is one of the early COV AB airbraked vans. Another Bachmann model, with minor detailing using Shawpan brake pipes. Like the brakevans this will have minor touching up rather than a full repaint.

     
    April should see more work on the Toplight, a Branchlines SER luggage van and hopefully some of these models getting painted.
  8. pete_mcfarlane
    I bought this at the Doncaster show in either 1999 or 2000 - I'm not sure which, but it was soon after it came out. It's very much been at the back of the 'to do' pile ever since, and Bachmann have even bought out an RTR version in the meantime.
     
    Brief details of the build;
    DC Kits plastic kit - I used the plastic mouldings but ditched the detailing components as they weren't up to the standard I was after.
    Black beetle motor bogie.
    Underframe detail is a mix of Southern Pride, NNK and scratchbuilt. These units had 1951 type control gear, which isn't covered by the Southern Pride plastic underframe kit.
    Roof detail from guitar wire and SP turned lamp tops.
    End jumpers from MJT.
    NNK etched window frames.

    Since I don't have a layout at the moment, here's a couple of photos of it on my hi-tech photo display stand (which happens to look a bit like an ironing board).

    Overall I'm quite happy with this, even though Bachmann got their one out before I'd finished it.
  9. pete_mcfarlane
    Not much progress recently due to all sorts of other distractions (skiing holidays, parties, boring stuff like that) but I've managed to get a few wagons ready for painting today.
     
    A Parkside BR van built as the Fruit van version using the optional ventilators. It's also had the solebars replaced with the plate fronted ones from the ever useful PA16 underframe kit. The yellow van is a Dapol ex Airfix "LMS van" which is actually a BR diagram 1/204. I bought a job lot of "second" bodies from a trader a the Grantham show last year, and this is the first to be tackled. Parkside underframe as usual, body modified to represent 3 part rather than 2 park ends and removal of some non-prototypical reinforcing around the bottom of the strapping were the main modifications. Presumably the yellow is a base for some strange Dapol livery, but this will be in bog standard Bauxite.
     
    Next up are a couple of Chivers "Coal 21 VB" - the MDV TOPS designation is a bit after my time. These built up very well despite a surprising amount of flash for such a new kit (must be selling well and wearing the tool out). My only gripe with these was the poor quality of the cast buffers - luckily I had some spare from a third kit being converted to the unfitted version. I've added wire handrails, rivets on the door springs and vacuum pipes - everything else came with the kit.
  10. pete_mcfarlane
    Firstly, a look at the bits I didn't use for the Bil! Mostly underframe parts and interior partitions. It shows how "basic" this kit is when so much has to be replaced.
    And a quick update on the EPB. Now painted and having grab handles (etched from Southern Pride) stuck in place using Johnsons floor polish. This is a bit boring and so is progressing quite slowly.

     
    The Modelmaster transfer pack for the 2-EPB is a bit odd, as it includes first class stripes and "1" characters for the doors. I ditched the numbers and used HMRS ones instead, as I find these easier to use for making up numbers.
  11. pete_mcfarlane
    Slow progress over Christmas, due to other distractions (food, beer etc) but I've managed to get some LER wagons completed. I bought some old 3H LNER 6 plank wagon kits off Ebay as these seem to be well regarded. In the end they turned out to be pigs to build - the quality of the detail is first rate, but assembling them was a nightmare as the corner joins didn't mate properly and endless filing and filling was needed!
     
    The one on the right was built as per the kit as a Darlington built example. The one on the left is the Doncaster example with a difference shape of end L stanchion. This was achieved by glueing several layers of 10 thou plasticard over the existing moulded stanchion, trimming the excess off when dry and then filing the new angle.

    A third kit had it's underframe replaced with one from a Parkside lowfit, to give a 10' wheelbase fitted example. I've now discovered that ABS do a kit for these, so I don't feel quite as smug as I originally did :icon_rolleyes:
    The cattle wagon is a Parkside kit (for the fitted version) modified in to a 9' wheelbase version, using MJT and ABS components. Sadly I couldn't think of a way of making it go banana shaped like the real thing did due to their weak underframes.

  12. pete_mcfarlane
    The T1 is now painted, lined and lettered. It's slowly having detailed added - mostly stuff that would have been in the way whilst I lined it, such as the clack valves, tank fillers, whistle etc. The lettering is by HMRS, I also cheated and used their boiler bands.
     
    This photo shows the current state of play - sorry about the workbench clutter!

    The next step will be to weather it - then fit the handrails.
     
    The E2 is ready for priming - the last few days have seen endless pipes added under the footplate As I mentioned before, I struggled to find multiple pictures of the same loco in BR condition. So it's been done from several different photos of different engines, and isn't guaranteed to be 100% accurate (given that a lot of the pipework looks distinctly home made, especially the vacuum and heat pipes, which are later additions).

    It now looks very much like an E2, in a way that the Hornby original never did. It will have a coat of primer in the next couple of days, and then I'll see all of the imperfections, lumps of glue, dodgy filler etc.
  13. pete_mcfarlane
    The J is done bar some touching up of the paint. When this is done I'll take some decent photos and upload them
     
    I've (foolishly) decided to scratchbuild an LBSC I4 for the 2012 challenge. http://www.rmweb.co....-atlantic-tank/
     
    This lead me to dig out my one and only previous attempt at scratchbuilding a loco chassis in 4mm scale. It's incomplete and has been lurking in my box of half finished projects for about 4 years. I had trouble finding a suitable motor and gearbox to fit, due my liking for flywheels and dislike of small open frame motors.

    I've decided to get it finished, before staring on the I4 chassis. After a couple of hours with the Branchlines motor and gearbox data sheet/price list I reckon one of their multiboxes will do, so one is on order.
     
    The frames were drilled out using a hand held drill. Despite this it's far more free running than any of the kit chassis I've assembled.
     
    The chassis goes under this, which is not for the faint hearted.

    A Hornby E2 body stretched to scale length. I've been working on this on and off for for far longer than the chassis - about 12 years. It made use of the Hornby bodies multi part construction - the boiler and footplate were cut in different places, glued back together with plasticard spacers and then carefully sanded to shape.
     
    The tanks were extended with new sections at the front and the skirt under the boiler removed. The Hornby loco sits too high, with the drop in the frames increased - this was removed. The biggest remaining dimensional issue is the side tanks - they are 1mm too low. I'm still deciding what to do (if anything) about that. It needs a lot more work before it's finished.
     
    The other loco project I'm now working on is a Craftsman ex-LSWR T1 0-4-4 tank. This is a bit out of place with the Kent/East Sussex locqtion of my planned layout (although they did work in to West Sussex on the Midhurst branch). I'm really building it as an introduction to etched loco kits, and also to practise my soldering in case I decide to go for a metal body on the I4.
     
    So far so good - this is the result of an hour and half of soldering:

  14. pete_mcfarlane
    I thought I'd start a new blog to record my slightly hamfisted attempts at building 4mm loco kits.
     
    The first victim is a Chiver's SECR J class 0-6-4T. These are one of Harry Wainwright's more obscure classes - there were only five of them, and all were scrapped by 1951. I've heard it claimed they were the last 0-6-4T tanks in Britain (although the type survived in Ireland until 1969 due to the Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties' peculiar attachment to them).
     
    When finished it will be 31599 in early BR condition.
     
    The chassis is a pretty conventional affair in etched brass, with a separate etch containing the coupling rods, brake gear and a gearbox (to go with Romford gears and a DS10 motor). I'd experimented with the settings on my camera, the combination of an LED desk lamp, flash and macro mode on the camera produced the slightly odd effect in the photo (which reminds me of a German silent film).

    The kit suggests starting with the chassis, but then mentions that it needs shortening slightly to fit the running plate. So I started by assembling the running plate (using epoxy). This needed a bit of filler, but otherwise went together OK. A couple of millimetres was then removed from the chassis etch to ensure that it fitted before soldering it up.

    I used a Comet jig to help with the assembly. I also added extra frame spacers off one of their etches to ensure that the chassis was nice and rigid.
     
    The next step was to paint the basic chassis before fitting the Alan Gibson wheels. These were then fitted using a GW models wheel press. This is my first use of the Gibson driving wheels, and no major problems so far. Once they are on, it's not straightforward to remove them, hence the need to paint the chassis (or at least the bit's behind the wheels) first.

    The moulded plastic gearbox is from a firm called Northyard, who hail from New Zealand. I bought it from Branchlines a few years back and have now finally found a use for it. The huge side tanks will hide a fairly large Mashima 1628 motor driving the gearbox via a length of neoprene tubing. Again this is something I've not tried before, but so far it all seems to fit.

    The motor will intrude in to the bottom of the cab, but with the doors modelled in the closed position this shouldn't show.
     
    So it has taken a week of odd hours here and there to get this far. The rest of the kit seems pretty straightforward, so I'm hoping for a quick build.
  15. pete_mcfarlane
    This is the state of play tonight. It's sitting on it's bogies, with the body and underframe mostly complete. The nastiest bit so far was adding the bogie footsteps - the etched brackets were rather small (scale size?) and a bit flimsy. Some then dropped off when trying to bend them to shape and had to be replaced. Soldering the footboards in to place without melting the whitemetal springs needed a steady hand and plenty of patience.
     
    Next step is the brake linkage. I cheated on the bogies and left off the brake shoes as they looked very fiddly.
  16. pete_mcfarlane
    Thanks for the comments about my last post. I'm very much looking forward to using these Shawplan/Extreme etchings bits.
    This is going to be 816 when it's finished. Eclipse is something of an odd choice for a warship name - the last HMS Eclipse having been sunk in 1943. I'd have thought that Eagle or Exeter would have been better choices for a Warship name starting with E. Wikipedia says that the ship cost £246,664, which seems very reasonable compared to how much these things cost today.
     
     
    Back to the model - as promised here is a photo of the new Gibson wheels. Swapping them for the original Bachmann wheels is the only work done so far to the bogies. One of these wheels will need modifying to the 2 hole variant, as 816 had a mix of 4 and 2 hole wheels in 1970.
    Tonight I've soldered up the cooling fans. These come as 13 etched components, all numbered, which have to be soldered together. I stuck two bit of wire in a block of balsa and threaded them all on using the two etched location holes. Apply a fair bit of solder paste between each layer and then some heat from the soldering iron. The finished on it the picture hadn't been cleared up at this point.

     
    Lastly, I've spotted a potential issue. The blanking plug for the DCC chip seems to be under one of the grill opening, which may cause problems with fitting the fan. I'll check further tomorrow.

    Also visible is the grey paint on the window surrounds to highlight and gaps in the filler. Some more filling is needed!
  17. pete_mcfarlane
    Another detailed Southern Region locomotive on my workbench- this time a Bachmann Class 42 Warship. This has been lurking on my bench for a which, but the purchase of some fan etchings from Shawplan last weekend will hopefully speed things on.
     
     
     
    I'm doing 816 in blue (using the Bachmann D812 as a base). There are a limited number of Warships that can be produced from the Bachmann model without major work. It's suitable for the D814-832/866-870 range (except for D830 which had a different engine). Class 43s didn't work on the Southern, and I've not yet figured out a way of modifying the side grilles for D800 - 813.
     
    The first thing I did was to replace the rather crude wheels with Gibson EM gauge ones, mounted on the original Bachmann OO axles. These look much better - I've lost the photo so you'll have to take my word for it until I take another.....
     
    Moving on to the body, apart from the roof grilles and catwalks (which will be replaced), the biggest problem seems to be with the front end. The moulded glazing is a poor fit with areas of unpainted plastic showing. On mine it was also very well glued in, so I resorted to masking it off with Copydex to protect it from damage and paint rather than attempting to remove it and risking damage.

     
    I then carefully filled around the window frames with filler. This will be sanded down and painted yellow to match the rest of the front.

     
    Other work I've done on the front end includes:

    Removing the plastic buffers. These are a bit flimsy and will be replaced with some sprung oval headed buffers from A1. Removing the tension lock couplers and glueing the front cowling in place. This has been blended in with filler and painted Removing the front headcode panels. These don't fit very well and look crude. These also look too small, which I think might be down to the surround (which is part of the body moulding) being painted yellow rather than black. Removing the handrails, which are attached too close to the body.The ones under the window lacked the distinctive centre support.
    I've also drilled out and removed the roof fans, ready to take the etched replacements.

     
    These do look very nice. In the past I never understood the fetish for replacing perfectly good moulded grilles and fans with crude etched replacements, but these are a million miles away from the horrors of the past!
  18. pete_mcfarlane
    Not updated this blog for a while now - I must get a bit better at doing it.
     
    I've built a couple of Phoenix/Branchlines "Goldstar" coaches - a Maunsell Open third and one of the 1935 type brake composites.
     
    I'm not a fan of the original BSL/Phoenix coaches - nasty stamped aluminium sides and some strange pressing that are supposed to be the chassis. However these are much better, having much thinner etched sides for starters.
     

     
     
    I replaced the rather crude Phoenix bogies with MJT compensated ones - time will tell if these are worth the extra time and expense. The brake composite uses Comet underframe castings from their Bullied as these are correct for the later Maunsells. The biggest problem by far was attaching the rainstrips to the roof - eventually I managed to use a combination of superglue and Johnsons clear floor polish to hold them in place.
     
    Next up is the first of some GWR through coaches - a C.54 open third. There's one of these parked by the buffers at Kidderminster Town station, and after a few trips to the Severn Valley I rather like choclate and cream GWR coaches. I can leave all those identical 4-6-0s and Pannier tanks though....
     
    This was my first go at a complete Comet kit and it went together fairly well. My biggest mistake was to cut the chassis to length based on the assumption that the coach was 57' long as it says in the instructions... Once I'd noticed that the buffer beams were too far back I checked the drawing in Russell and discovered that these were actually 58'4" long. Some replacement solebars from Evergreen sorted this problem.
     
    The other deviation from the kit was to use 247 battery boxes, and these look much nicer having a cutout to represent the daylight between the box and the coach floor (which to me is one of the key features of these coaches). I also fitted Slaters sprung buffers and Frogmore lamp irons to the ends (another key feature). All in all I'm quite pleased with the result.

     
    Lastly, a first look on my current coach project. A SR Continental corridor third (the 8'6" wide type). This is based on a Worsley works etch - here laid out on my ironing board.

    And after some basic assembly.

    The first big problem is width - the etch appears to be designed to go together with the side inside the ends. This would make it 2mm too wide - by putting the ends outside the sides I got this down to .5mm too wide, but now the chassis won't fit! Some swearing and alterations are needed.
  19. pete_mcfarlane
    I finally tracked down some suitable square shank buffers for the 2-Bil. They are Slaters GWR coach buffers, and are sprung. Not cheap but very nice.
     

     
     
    This has spurred me in to finishing this unit. The inner ends have been detailed with various bits of wire and plastic (not the best photo as the roofs aren't attached and the toilet fillers aren't properly attached yet),
     

     
     
    The worst bit was doing the toilet filler pipes - I hate bending bits of wire in umpteen different directions. Anyway, it's now ready for a spot of green paint.

     
  20. pete_mcfarlane
    The 2-Bil is nearly complete - I'm currently adding the vast number of rain strips to the roof. No photos as bits of white plastic on a white roof doesn't really photograph.
     
    I've also made a start on my Hornby 73/0. This is it straight out of the box.

    The first step was to replace the overscale wheels with the Alan Gibson rewheeling pack. This is sold for EM, but can be used for finescale OO. The wheel profile is the same, and although the axles are too long this doesn't show. And the wheels came in a week not 4 months

    Next step was to remove the 2D underframe moulding and fill the hole with 40 thou plastic, ready to rebuild the underframe.

    I've also tracked down MRJ 11 from 1986, which has a Monty Wells article on the original Lima 73/1, including converting it to the 73/0. Beautifully written and illustrated as was always the case with his articles.
     
    It includes drawings of both types of class 73 and a list of differences. Based on this, and some photos of the 73/0 on the GC, I reckon that the Lima/Hornby 73/0 isn't quite what it claims to be.
     
    The body has the right grills/windows, but:
     

    It has 73/1 battery trays (although some 73/0 got this type in later life)
    It has 73/1 end jumper cables, missing the extra front end cable on the 73/0
    It has 73/1 bogie sandboxes
    It has a 73/1 fuel tank (the filler is in a different place on the 73/0)
    It has strange small round buffers. The 73/0 were built with oval buffers, and got large round ones in the early 1970s

     
    Some of these I can understand, as they reused parts to keep the cost down. But why the mistakes with the body moulding? It's ended up as a hybrid of the two sub-classes in best RTR fashion. On top of these, the airhorns are rubbish, there's no steps or cabling on the bogies and the side windows are larger than the glazing.
     
    Anyway, all of these should be fixable given a bit of work. There's all sorts of nice moulding work on the body - some very nice grills for example (I never understand why people replace the grills on this model) and it looks like a class 73.
     
    It will be E6001 in 1970 rail blue condition, complete with original oval buffers.
  21. pete_mcfarlane
    A package from NNK arrived yesterday, so the EPB has it's replacement window frame and is now finally heading to the paint shop
     
    The NNK trailing bogies having now been fitted with their etched step boards, and assembled. I've also added detail to the ends out of wire and various bits of plastic strip. As with the EPB ends there was a bit of guess work, and various drawings and photos don't seem to match up (possibly variations between different batches of units). I don't think this will matter when the unit is coupled up, so long as it looks right.
     
    It's now also got some nice footboards from NNK - these even come with a jig for drilling the fixing holes which helped a lot.

  22. pete_mcfarlane
    I'm still plodding away with the roof. This is the current state of play:

    The ventillators are some very nice NNK castings. The periscopes are from Branchlines, and the electrical cabling is a mixture of plastic rod and wire (mainly steel guitar wire, with some brass for the short cross cables) on Southern Pride turned supports.
     
    There's still quite a lot to do on the roof, but having drawings and some decent photos helps quite a lot compared to the EPB.
  23. pete_mcfarlane
    The Continental third is nearly ready for the paint shop. The body is complete, but I'm just waiting for a few Comet parts to finish off the underframe. It's going to be Malachite Green.
     

     
    The door handrails were a bit of a pig to bend to shape. These were originally straight when the coaches were built. When the doors were rehung to open outwards in the normal way (they originally opened inwards) the handrails got a joggle in then to avoid people scraping their knuckles when opening the door.
     
    These are amongst the oddest coaches to run on a British Railway - inward opening doors, droplights to every compartment (but no doors) and matchboard panelling. They also looked odd when coupled together, having buckeye couplings and flat ends, so the ends of the coaches were far closer than usual. There's an example preserved at the VCT museum on the KWVR and it's the interior is open to the public if you want to have a look at a real one.
  24. pete_mcfarlane
    Slightly poor photos taken at half eleven tonight, but I've finished the class 73. It's in early 1970s condition, as per this photo.
     

     
     
    Finished using HMRS transfers. I'm rather pleased with the result, but at the same time happy that I only want one 73/0 as the underframe needed an awful lot of work. Hopefully the 73/1 will be a lot easier when I get round to doing a couple of these.
  25. pete_mcfarlane
    The T1 is now mostly complete. There's still a few details to be added to the chassis, and I'm in the process of assembling a cab interior out of plasticard. This is partly guesswork, being based on some slightly murky photos of T1s the show parts of the cab and some photos of the cab of the preserved O2. I'm guessing there's some similarities, since they are both Adams locos. Photos of the ca to follow when it's done.
     
    This is the current state of the loco.

    The main hold up was getting the dome to sit correctly. This took a lot of milliput, and sanding down, to get it correct.
     
    I'm not completely sure about the brake rodding. It's a bit flimsy, surprising given how robust the rest of the chassis was.
     
    The rest of the details - handrails, cab fillers, whistle etc will be fitted after painting.
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