Tony Davis

BR 16T Min underframe orig brake - 4mm BBUW8097-4 I've never used one before, do they come with instructions? Thanks

pictures of matchstick men - status quo

Heart of glass- Blondie

All I want for Christmas is a Beatle - Dora Bryan

Three Little Birds - Bob Marley

I always thought that “best before” was purely advisory, just to let us know that the food would at it’s best up until that point. I believe the more information we get about our food the better, remember the horse burgers?

Yes, I read - after I had installed the couplers in the photographs - about the option you mentioned!

Thanks for the info, Steve. I have already bought electromagnets, they got put in the drawer along with the coupling fret when I had difficulties assembling the couplers. I have now successfully assembled some couplings and, buoyed by that success, I will return to the electromagnets. I would be interested to see how you get on when you get around to installing the ones you bought.

I spent some of this afternoon assembling a pair of Dingham couplings, I took more care this time, and I have also acquired a pair of flat face pliers which are a great help. I dug out one of the wagon that I had fitted with Dingham couplings the first time I tried, and placed the two wagons on the layout along with two wagons fitted with Kadee's. I must admit that I find the Dingham's far less obtrusive (I hadn't blackened them though, as I don't have any of the liquid yet) than the Kadee's, so I think I will persist with the Dingham couplings from now on. I need to buy some epoxy resin though, as gluing the couplings in with superglue doesn't seem secure enough to me. I also found that I needed to remove the manufacturers provided weights from under the wagon bodies as the couplings won't fit with them in place..

No, I struggled the first time I tried to use them, and I chucked the fret in a drawer. Since reading this comment I have dug them out again and will test fitting them to some old wagons. I also bought some electromagnets at the same time but couldn't work out how to wire them up, maybe I'll give those a another shot too.

Greenwich Couplings; https://gdngrs.com/couplings Brian Kirby: Basically a staple attached to a tension lock hook in such a way that, when passed over a magnet placed in the ballast, will cause the tension lock hook to rise and thus uncouple. I couldn't find a direct link but a quick search using your search engine of choice will show many examples of how they work. Come to think of it, just typing it in the search box on this site will bring up many examples.

I'm guessing that would involve the use of a wide magnet? I have mocked up a trial piece of track, Shortliner kindly supplied some photo's of how he had used neodymium magnets spaced apart to facilitate the Kadee's pulling in opposite directions, but I had to put a magnet in the centre of the track to operate the Kirby couplers.

That's the one!

No, but, we had the flashing on the conservatory repaired recently and I kept the old flashing so I shall get that sorted out, thanks for pointing that out.

There was a certain rough type of paper available in my youth, always reminded me of greaseproof paper but with the texture of wet and dry! The council bogs seemed to be well supplied with it back then.

One thing I found when using the pointy thing was that the wagon's tended to tip up when poked with said pointy thing, which could lead to de-railing. Maybe I was being too heavy handed. I will get a kebab stick and have a poke about with that, it could be that as the yellow pointy thing is quite short, being bent over the layout leads me to put too much weight on the pointy thing.

That may well prove to be the answer I am looking for, John, as it would obviate the need to fit magnets at all, and give me control over where I can uncouple the wagons. I do have a Kadee uncoupler, but it has no magnets, it is a yellow stick with a pointy bit on one end. It came as part of a job lot of Kadee's that I got from eBay.

I'm at the point of fixing magnets to my Inglenook layout and have reached a sort of crossroads. I had intended to fit kadee couplings, and use two magnets as per Shortliner's post many moons ago. I am now thinking that maybe the Brian Kirby stapler uncoupler may be a cheaper and easier mod, but wanted to garner some (hopefully informed) opinions before commiting magnet(s) to layout. Has anybody fitted and kadee's and wished they hadn't? Has anybody fitted Kirby couplings and wished they had fitted kadee's? The other option I am considering is greenwich couplings, which would also be actioned by fixed magnet. Thanks Tony

This isn't a new thing, I remember the "shelves stripped bare of sugar", and "shelves stripped bare of bread" in the past. The news broadcasters seem (to me) to be doing their best to whip up mass hysteria about this whole thing. I was glad to see some people agreeing with me on Newswatch yesterday.

To which my standard response is; "As you are calling me, you must already know them". I ask which company they are calling from and tell them if they tell me what it is about I will call them back. Genuine callers will have no issues with that.

Just been watching a video on youtube which demonstrates the art of using a static grass applicator, and I have a couple of questions as a result; Layering spray/adhesive; Is the main use of this product simply to allow one to apply another layer of grass to the basing grass while the first application of glue is still wet? Applicator; The applicator that was being used had a plate inside the hopper instead of a wire connected to a mesh. This made changing the mesh a lot easier as there was no need to detach and reattach the connecting wire. I would like to modify my home-made applicator so I wondered if this modification could be applied when a neg ion generator had been used and, if so, does the metal need to be a certain type? Thanks Tony

I was hoping that would be great case. Many thanks for the "timely" response, Tony

If anyone has a sheet of Sankey Scenics 4mm clock faces would they be kind enough to see if there are any that measure approx 12.5mm diameter, please? I need to replace the ones I peeled off my Triang church to repaint it. Cofion, Tony

Thanks for that Pete, I'm glad you cleared up my confusion because yesterday I watched a video where a chap built an applicator using an ioniser similar to mine, and he used the "fourth" wire to connect to the pin that goes in the glue, and that caused me more confusion! Cofion, Tony

My new negative ioniser arrived today, no paperwork whatsoever. It was cheap, so I can't really complain plus I have built one before, so I wasn't expecting any problems. But... The one i bought previously and all ones I have seen on the how-to videos only have three wires, positive supply negative and local ground , and one wire for the output. The one that arrived today has four wires. I have done a quick search on the 'net and the only similar info I can find says that both output wires should be connected to the wire mesh. I just wanted to check to see if anyone else had come across this issue before and if the info above is correct. Thanks Tony