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Gravy Train

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Blog Comments posted by Gravy Train

  1. Hi Stubby47.

     

    I nearly allways fit the drainpipes to a building before painting, a few reasons really.

    1 If i paint the drainpipe first then fit it to the walls there is a good chance the paint will spoil / react with the mek and ruin the finish so i nearly allways paint the walls not worrying about paint getting onto the down spouts as the downspouts would receive an initial undercoat before the top coat is applied.

     

    2 I find it esier to cut in on the downspout when finishing off as opposed to cutting in the wall colour as it will have weathering dry brushed in which would otherwise spoil the downspout paint finish.

     

    With regard to the stage by stage paint job, this was done deliberately so as to show how i cane to get the desired finish i was after and also the possibility of using it in an article description in a book i am doing.

     

    I hope it all answers your questions clearly.

    cheers

     

    Peter

  2. Hi Larry,

    Sorry about that, i don't know what has happened there but stranger things have happened, i know that the photos are not there instantly when you click on the post.

    My intention was that you got straight to the photos without going through the Blog itself, if anyone has problems navigating just go to my blog and click on ( gravy Train ) Delph and scroll down.

    All the best

     

    Peter

  3. Yes Jim, i agree and the reason being.

    A high building on a layout will no doubt dwarf the layout's perspective even if it is correct to what your are modelling and that is because we are compromised by space, in other words we can't see the bigger picture or enough of the environment around it to make sense of it.

    That is why when we read articles on layout design in many books published, it allways enfasizes 'balance' the key words. Perspective and proportion.

    cheers.

  4. Hi Graham,

    Its all about perspective at the end of the day and how far back will it sit on the layout, in can get complex when dealing with the hieght of buildings and were they sit on the layout and to retain proportion to the reat of the layout.

    Your measurements seem fine to me, its allways a good idea to make a mock up of the building first so you can get an idea of how it will look with the reat of the layout/diorama.

    As for foamboard, it may be possible but once all the window apertures a cut out there won't be much left of the foamboard.

    Have thought about using perspex/ heavy grade clear plastic sheet, say 100htou + and to laminate the releif of that but baring in mind you brace it on the inside, the best way would be to fit dummy floors to keep it square.

     

    cheers

    Peter

  5. Dave,

    Its a relief to know you have opted for the plywood sleeper type for your pointwork formations,

    I used C+L plastic chairs but had to build the formation onto cork cut to shape so that i could permanantly fix in place then transfare it to the baseboard.

    The reasoning here being that if i aproached it the way you have done the sleepers would curl up at the ends resulting in gauge narrowing but this won't happen with plywood.

    Back in the early days i would construct the pointwork on the table top firstly by temporarily fixing polethene over the template and using prit stick to fix in place the sleepers and away you go fixing the chairs in place and to thread the rail and by the time you transfare to the baseboard the pointwork has gone out of gauge.

    I wonder how many people have been down that rd.

    cheers Dave, keep up the good work,its looking superb,my common sense prevail.

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