Nig H

Hi, Yes, I have some in stock. I can send you the instructions if you want to see what is involved. Nig H

Hi John, This is a pic of the gearbox for a Princess Royal. Its the same idea for the Cauli, the box is screwed inside the spacer between the frames with shim between the two to get the meshing right. Inside the box is a worm on 1.5mm axle steel, the rear end extending to the u/j, as can be seen. For the Cauli, the spacer has been angled in on both sides towards the top, otherwise it was too wide to fit in the firebox. Nig H

Hi, Of the kits I do, I'd say the easiest is the chassis for the GEM L & Y saddle tank. Other chassis only/ conversion kits would come next, starting with the Fairburn tank, the Ivatt 2-6-0 and the WD 2-8-0. The next more-involved would be those with valve gear and complete chassis to be built, so that would be the Dapol Ivatt, then the Jubilees and the Royal Scot. I don't think there is a huge difference across the Jubilees and Royal Scot as the chassis and motion are similar and the tenders are Stanier 4,00 gallons versions. Maybe Simon Grand can comment on this. Of course, you could start at the other end of the scale with a Princess Coronation, then almost anything else will seem easy-peasy. I think you need to bear in mind that most 2mm loco building will include some tricky steps, but once you've successfully coped with them, succeeding challenges become less daunting. It can help to have someone sat next to you showing some of the techniques you need to use. I was lucky as I had Mike Raithby guide me through building one of his 4F etches. I also remember when I first started 2mm loco building I'd have bad days where I'd go two steps forward and three steps back. That rarely happens now and many of the things I thought difficult have become much easier with practice. If you don't have a go at a kit then you'll stay with nothing, but if you do try something then you might end up with something that's so-so, but the next one will probably be better. I hope I've answered your question but if not let me know and I'll try again. Nig H

Hello, I think I got them from the Two Mill Association, but N Brass ( http://www.nbrasslocos.co.uk/yl2mmcauli.html ) do some suitable ones too, as well as the etch. I got my etch from a member of the Association many years ago. Nig H

Hello, This is my model of a Beames 0-8-0 G2. Its made from a shot-down to 2mm scale Brassmasters etched kit, with a chassis I designed and had etched. The model is finished in its late 1950s BR Patricroft condition. It was withdrawn in 1962. The chimney and dome are N Brass castings. I think I turned the smokebox door, and soldered on the detail bits before epoxying it as a unit onto the front of the smokebox. One of the challenges with this model was the tender body, especially the flared sides and rear. I had to fabricate, from chunks of brass, very small parts to fill the gap in the rear corners between the sides and the top of the flare. forming the curved flare parts wasn't a doddle either The loco is powered with a Faulhaber 1219 coreless motor, driving a 30:1 worm gear and 28:1 and 21:1 spur gears. These gears, the wheels and axle muffs are supplied by the Two Millimetre Scale Association. The tender body pivots at a point just behind the motor to transfer some weight onto the back of the loco chassis. Nig H

Hello, This is my model of a Webb 18" Goods or Cauliflower. Its made from a shot-down to 2mm scale London Road etched kit, with a scratchbuilt loco and tender chassis. The model is finished in it mid 1950's livery, and I believe it was withdrawn from Widnes in 1955. As far as I can make out from 'Baxter', it was still in the round top boiler condition I've modelled when withdrawn. The chimney, dome and safety valves are brass castings. The u/js are made from slotted brass rod housed inside brass tube, with the wire connection between the two bent up from 10 thou steel wire. I use a less obtrusive version of this now, with etched parts and slimmer tube. You should be able to see this on my entry for a G2. Note how the top of the extension to the frames for the gearbox housing has been curved inwards to fit inside the top of the firebox. The prototype loco and tender are quote small and fitting the chassis, motor and gearbox in was quite a challenge. The loco is powered with a Faulhaber 1016 coreless motor, driving a 30:1 worm gear and 28:1 and 21:1 spur gears. These gears, the wheels and axle muffs are supplied by the Two Millimetre Scale Association. I've also fitted a CT Elektronic decoder, a DCX75 I think. Eventually I will replace it with a DCX76. Nig H

Hello, This is my model of a Bowen-Cooke 0-8-2T. Its made from a shot-down to 2mm scale Brassmasters etched kit, with a chassis I designed and had etched. The model is finished in its early BR Springs Branch condition, from where it was withdrawn in 1953. The chimney, dome and safety valves are N Brass castings. The loco is powered with a Faulhaber 1016 coreless motor, driving a 30:1 worm gear and 28:1 and 21:1 spur gears. These gears, the wheels and axle muffs are supplied by the Two Millimetre Scale Association. Nig H

Hello Nick, Thanks for the comment. This was the first loco chassis kit I designed, so I was 'finding my way with it' to some extent. I'm relieved that some/most of it worked out OK for you. I had no idea what some of the bits I tried to etch are on prototype locos, and things like the valve spindle guide were copied from Mike Raithby's 8F etch, I think. Concerning some of the bits you added, I can only include bits I see on the drawings I use and prototype photos, but I don't think I see as much as most people so I probably miss more parts off than other etchers. That's one of the reasons I like to consult yourself or the other eagled-eyed youngster, Simon G. I've really enjoyed this series of videos, and I've been interested in seeing some of the techniques you've used. Concerning filing the rod connecting the union link and combination lever, I find it useful to turn the two parts so that one is on top of the other. If they are then held in that position while the rod is filed down to the washer, there is less risk of damaging the parts with a slip of the file. Do you think this has merit? It seems to work for me anyhow. Nig H

Hi Simon, Thanks - I'm now fairly certain that the etch is buildable with a couple of tweaks. I still need to test the loco on curves with the steps added to the body, just in case. Merry Christmas to you too. Nig H

After a lot of fettling spread over several days, I finally got the valve gear to work on the chassis. There were lots of clearance issues to sort out, some hard to spot let alone fix. To cap it all the middle crankpin became unsoldered. Luckily I didn't have to remove the driving wheel (and thus the brake gear) to re-solder the pin. I wish I had taken the first test etch build further so that some of the changes needed for the slide bar support/motion bracket could have been included in the second test etch. Here are some pics. The balance weights are too small by one spoke. I don't know how I managed that one, must be my age. I added them to the wheels to check clearances inside the coupling rods. I've done a lot of work on the body too. Steps, pipework and detailing to add. I'm wondering when to fix the roof, and whether to solder or epoxy in place. Nig H

Hi, Here's the link to the topic for this I set up a while ago. It has some info on the build which may be of use to you. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80650-finescaling-a-farish-wd-2-8-0/ Nig H

"It looks good, it tastes good, and by golly, it does you good. Ahh." * Nig H * From old Mackeson ad.

I recently acquired this loco - an LMS 2P 0-4-4 T, 41903. I think its been built by John Greenwood as there are tell-tale signs such as the bogie (sprung to the chassis, sides isolated and connected to the frames electrically), the way the DG couplings are formed and attached through the chassis to the body, and the general high quality workmanship. Maybe Jerry can ask John if he remembers building the loco. The model must have been built a long time ago as it has a very old (pre Ultrascale) gear set (36:1). As can be seen its built as an N gauge chassis, and I've now managed to remove the brake pull rods and wheels, and I hope to replace the latter with finescale sets, though I should be concentrating on my Fowler 2-6-4 T second test etches really. Nig H

I've made a start on the footplate. The valances are not straight from end to end so the first task was to form the bends to match bends in the footplate and the doorway cutout. These bends need to be accurately located else the valances will not locate properly at the ends of the footplate. Here are some shots showing attachment of the front footplate section. The routine for the rear section, attached after the middle section was soldered to the valances, is similar. Checking the vertical height of the front after forming the bends (using 1.5mm diameter rod). You can just see that the two sides are not the same height. I didn't realise this until after tack soldering the front in place and finding the front edge of the footplate wasn't square to the footplate sides. Holding the footplate and valance together with small pegs. The vertical edges of the valances must line up with the rear edge of the half-etched front of the footplate, along which the buffer beam will lie. Now I can tack solder one valance to the footplate at the front corner. I used some 1.5mm diameter rod and pegs to squeeze the valance into the corners of the footplate before soldering in place on the underside. Here I'm using my verniers to check the front and rear footplate edges are parallel. Next I'll clean up the work so far and do a bit more checking to see everything lines up as it should. I learnt from test etch one that small inaccuracies at this stage of the construction can have quite serious implications further on in the assembly. Nig H

Hello Nick, Thanks for your comments. I'll think about your suggestions and see what I can come up with. Another alternative might be some sort of bracket from the frames. Just a thought at the moment, I've not looked in detail at any options yet. I just attached the right side combination lever to the radius rod, not without incident. I didn't use a motion pin, just some 0.31mm rod. I soldered everything up solid first time round, but after cleaning the solder off all the relevant parts,attempt #2 worked ok. Which was nice..... Nig H

Hi Paul, If you click on the heading in the Shop listing for these etched chassis (in blue) you'll get up a list of instructions covering the 14XX, and including drawings and assembly instructions. These will hopefully answer many of your queries. Nig H

Here are a few pics showing aspects of the assembly of the cylinders and motion. Testing the length of the piston rod in the cylinder block. The rod is at its furthest point back. Then I'll rotate the driver 180 degrees to check the piston rod at its furthest point forward. This shows the cylinder and motion after the left side expansion link has been soldered between the motion bracket and the radius rod. Its mostly hidden by the little squares of grease-proof paper used as a barrier between the three parts. I've also added a motion pin in the hole in the front of the radius rod, to which the top of the combination lever will be attached. Opening out the hole at the top of the combination lever with a small broach. The combination lever now connected to the radius rod. Then I'll add a square of grease-proof paper and secure the join with a small brass washer. Note the kink in the combinaion lever to clear the crosshead. The washer soldered to the pin, ready for cleaning up. I originally included a representation of the valve spindle guide (still visible on the right hand side valve gear), but it was loose (secured only by the pin for the combination lever/ radius rod joint) and flopped around too much. I tried soldering it to the radius rod, but that all went pear-shaped. I'll have to think about a re-design in this area, but just to progress things I'm leaving the guide out for now. Soon I'll be able to paint the chassis, attach the cylinder block/ motion assembly and finish off the brake gear. Nig H

How time flies! After leaving this for ages, I've finally got round to tackling the second test etch. Here are some pics of the chassis and the pivot for the bogie. These show the stump of the bearing, inserted from the top of the spacer and soldered in place underneath. I've solder a washer to some N gauge coupling spring and fixed this around the bottom of the pivot bearing. The washer will bear down on the top of the bogie spacer. The bogie is attached with the 14BA bolt and washer shown. Note further along the frames the 'Simpson' springs to the two front axles. This shows the top of the bearing with a 14BA nut soldered in a recess in the top. Not the neatest bit of soldering but I didn't want to dwell too long with the iron and move the nut out of position. More pics to follow as the build progresses. Nig H

The production etches for the loco and tender arrived today. I'll take some to the AGM for people to have a look at. Regards, Nigel

Hi, Aren't they a 65' RFO, a period 2 60' open and a period 1 57' open? Anyway, you've made a fantastic job of them and I'm looking forward to seeing more finished. Nig H

Hi, Sam Kennion brought to my attention the method shown in this Youtube link, using cat fur. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nTtOOKan-U. I haven't tried it myself, but it might be worth considering. Nig H

Hello John, I think you are referring to the coach next to the engine - the GSWR restaurant composite. I think I have found all the bits to make one, but I don't have instructions. Please contact me by email or PM if you want to discuss this further. Regards, Nigel

Here are some pics showing extra weight added to the chassis (lumps of tungsten), and the stock used for testing the adhesion. The train weighed 159g in total and the loco did show some signs of slipping, so one coach less might be the maximum the loco could pull comfortably. The tungsten is glued inside the spacers either side of the worm. All the coaches have brass or nickel silver bodies and underframes, with mainly Ultima detailing. They are significantly heavier than my other coaches built with plasticard underframes. The wagons are old Wyatt and Tizard products. Apologies for the picture quality. It was quite gloomy in the kitchen when I did the trials. Nig H

Thanks Simon. After my post, I found a few web pics of 40439 in the mid to late fifties, all in unlined black, early emblem, so I'm happy to go with that evidence. A relief in some ways though it would have looked nice in mixed traffic lining. Nig H

Some pics showing a new chimney and dome fitted, and a couple of repairs. The chimney and dome look a lot more like what I had in mind originally. I'm tempted to paint the loco soon. I thought it would need to be lined out but according to Summerson, it was finished in unlined black when sporting the first BR emblem. If anyone knows this not to be so, please let me know. Nig H