Nig H

I think Allen just likes to fill up space with spares of some of the parts. Nig H

It might be best to ask Allen Doherty. He's always very helpful, I've found. Nig H

Hi Rich, I can't comment on the source of the most accurate drawings. You might only be able to get the drawing you need from one source anyway, but it might be worth checking the drawing against prototype pics to check the overall layout. One source of drawings not mentioned so far is model railway magazines. These often ran series of drawings e.g. Railway Modeller in the 1960's with LMS coaches. The BRMNA website had a list of model railway drawings last time I checked. I drew the artwork for my model of the GSWR restaurant diner, car no. 3 using drawings from Historic Carriage Drawings. I used a spreadsheet to ensure the vertical lines on the panelling were correctly spaced apart and summed to the total length of the coach. Nig H

A GEM S & D 7F kit. Fancy a bargain? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GEM-Models-N-Gauge-S-DJR-2-8-0-7F-Metal-Body-Kit/183884083455?hash=item2ad05870ff:g:5o0AAOSw6CxdK3pD Nig H

Here is a link which might be helpful. If you saw Nick's Coal Tank run across tissue paper drapped over some track, you'd be convinced. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107235-2mm-coal-tank-test-build/&do=findComment&comment=2792939 Nig H

Hi Richard, If there were, they've all been snapped up. I'll have my etched kits with me at Tutbury too. Regards, Nigel Hunt

Hi David, I'm taking what's left to Tutbury so you can have a look then. Regards, Nigel Hunt

Great work Nick. I'm looking forward to seeing this on Fence Houses at York. Nig H

I've finally got round to painting the tender axleboxes/ springs for my MR 483 class. Here are a couple of pics with the left-hand side ones glued in place. When the right-hand side is done I can do a bit of weathering and add the cab windows and coal. I think I need to look at the cab handrails (again). Regards, Nig H Here are some pics of the finished loco. I wanted to add some crew but there's not much space in the cab either side of the u/j. I quite pleased how the tender axleboxes came out, though they are a pain to assemble. Nig H

i think you're right -the boiler and smokebox are solid brass, as the pic hopefully shows. Nig H

On the Keith Gloster workbench, not mine, a S & D 7F. I produced the etched chassis and footplate, Alan Smith the machined smokebox/ boiler/ firebox. Nig H

Hi Nigel, I asked Alan about the different diameter and I think he said that that diameter was what the tools he used made, and that the diameter of the worm could be selected (within reason) by the manufacturer. Maybe it just depended on what diameter rod was selected. I'm not sure there is any error, just a difference. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the implication of using the larger diameter worms is that the centre distance will be c. 0.185mm greater. For the chassis I've designed using 38:1 gears, that can be achieved with a bit more packing with shim. Nig H

Hello Tony, I got them from Alan........ Regards, Nigel

Hello Tony, What is the diameter of the worm with the 38:1 gear? I have some of these and the worm diameter is c. 3.95mm (cf. 3.58mm for the previous nylatron worms). Nigel Hunt

I think the GF Fairburn and standard 4MT chassis are the same, though I've not been able to check them side by side. Anybody else know? I can send you a Fairburn chassis etch to check whether it would work if you want. Nig H

I had similar problems with the front frames on this 2mm finescale version as you can see in the pic below. This was only the second loco kit I had made so I just followed the instructions without question. I do remember at the time wondering why the front frames didn't line up with the smokebox wrapper. You can also see that I struggled with the cab roof just above the cutout. I still do! Nig H

I had some and the fit seemed a bit sloppy, in fact too sloppy to be of use, What about the Association ones? Nig H

Hi William, I think the vans should have steel underframes, not wooden. I'm not sure many wagons had 10' wheelbase wooden underframes with Morton brakes, but maybe someone else can advise. Regards, Nig H

Mike Musson: 'You will note that some modellers posted their entry within the main section of the Competition's thread whilst others created their own sub-topic. This means that you will need to scroll down to see the entry and in some instances you will see more than one entry on the same page. Next year we will ensure all entries are standalone. This section requires two links to be added which hopefully will be completed by Monday (21st) evening.' I found your entry easily enough, and very good it is too. You had to choose which category you entered when completing the entry form. Hope this helps. Nig H

Hi John, Tim just let me know he hasn't any left. I don't think the N Brass option is sensible. A shame those shot downs turned out to big - I was after a MR 3F which were also oversize. You could ask in our Mag if anyone has one of Tim's they no longer want. Nig H

I'm not a fan of the 'axle tight in the muff' approach because of the difficulty in releasing the wheels after fitting, if so desired. I prefer to ream the muffs until the axles are a snug to firm fit so that the wheels are held in place when you quarter them. I also find it useful to file two flats along the length of the muffs, opposite each other. This then makes it easier to drill two 1mm holes about 2mm either side of centre, right through the muffs. These holes should be big enough to drop some superglue in once the wheels are quartered. With flats on the muffs its also easier to grip the muffs with pliers and twist the wheels out of them if needed. Hopefully you will be able to see this in this pic, the middle two axles especially. I usually epoxy motors in place. The slow setting types give you plenty of time to make small adjustments to the motor position. I don't think I've ever had a motor come loose, with this method. Life is easier if you are fixing the motor to a separate saddle as presumably the mesh can be adjusted once the glue is set. Nig H

Hi Tim, I've sent you a PM. Can you get back to me please? Regards, Nigel

Sorry, I meant the chassis, not the body. Nig H

Hello John, I think I mentioned to you that I got mine from Tim Watson. Did you ask him if he had any left? Nig H

Hi, Yes, I have some in stock. I can send you the instructions if you want to see what is involved. Nig H