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CourthsVeil

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Everything posted by CourthsVeil

  1. This layout is becoming better every time I look into here, Mullie! The new lighting changes the general atmosphere to the clearer side, the new lights in the MPD board really open the door to a new mode of operations. Thank you for letting us participate and keep up the VERY good work! Cheers Armin
  2. Hi Will, much better now, much better! Thank you. I didn't want to offend anybody, so I apologize for havin been too harsh. Still, my complaint spurred a lot of discussion and recommendations. Keep up the good work! And let us participate! Armin
  3. Hi, that's the official way (I didn't know about). Thank you – now we can go back to the topic... Armin
  4. Dave, sorry, but not with my browser (mozilla FF) – and I don't see why any browser should jump back when the address has been amended the way I described. Armin PS: also no problems with IE - checked with ozzyo's County thread. PS2: are you sure you amended the very last digit(s) in the address line and not the last one just visible?
  5. Hi Dave, to go to a specific page of a thread: put the cursor into the address field (of said thread) and change the last digits as you want. Hit ENTER! For instance, if you want to go to page 3 of THIS very thread, you will find "http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53956-ultrasonic-cleaners/page-5" in the address field. Amend this to "…/page-3", enter, and you are there! Armin
  6. Sorry, but this makes me nauseatic ! Is it really sooo diffcult to use a tripod ? Asks Armin .
  7. J, I use a finely serrated trowel to spread the caulk. I don't believe in ballast shoulders drawn like a ruler (at least not in connection with older tracks – recent ones are another game). You can see a lot of pictures with quite varying width/slope of ballast. Edits added: the caulk method circumvents all problems arising from wetting card. And: when I really want regular ballast shoulders, I lay out masking tape along the track, spread the caulk and rip the tape off before adding ballast. Armin PS: Mind you – though I'm German, I'm not for Prussian order... A bit of sloppiness is my cuppa.
  8. J, I use dark grey acrylic caulk (permanently elastic): push a bead onto the board, spread to the width of ballast shoulders, put track on top, press this very (!) lightly into the caulk and sprinkle ballast liberally on top. Tap a bit. Next day hoover the suplus ballast away. Done! Armin Edit = orthography
  9. J, to be honest, I don't. It appears to me, however, that this is the same difficulty arising in the use of Foamcore (ask Prof Klyzlr what to do…? ). I personally don't see, why and where I should exert local pressure. I'm just a bit cautious with my layout(s). Armin
  10. Hi jcredfer, I got two sheets of corrugated card and glued them together. The salient point is that – like plywood – the “grain” (the runnings) in the two sheets is oriented at right angles to each other This composition is surprisingly rigid and incredibly light, very easy to work with, too – knife, scissors… Only drawback encountered so far: it’s a bit pressure sensitive. Armin
  11. Hi, regarding sealing the ink: I only can tell you that I ran into problems with HP inks plus various (!) matte sprays. The surfaces get a distinctive reddish hue. A thing I never observed with other products I used prior to HP. I would recommend you leave the arches uncoated for the time being; in my opinion sealing isn't sooo important. Turning to something more serene: you've got a really fine layout – even in its present WiP-form it is very appealing. I like it very much and even would say it's nearly finished. Keep up the fine work! Armin
  12. Wow, that's brilliant – very well done this layout. Any chance to get a look at the right end of the scene? Thanks for sharing + keep up the good work! Armin Btw: 8" x 1.5" looks rather mini-micro - shouldn't that read 8' x 1.5' …?
  13. Mullie, I like this layout very, very much. Keep up the good work! Regarding your last photo I suppose you used the lens set to wide angle. If so, then the "dip" is no surprise. In fact, you will observe a "counter-dip" above (see "Wythe & Sons"). This effect is called "barrel distortion" and is due to the geometry of optical rays - and therefore connected to wide angle photos. (Some quite modern digital cameras automatically calculate this effect out of the picture.) Regards Armin edit: Counter measure: set the lens to a middle focal length - the distortion will disappear (yes, I know, you will have to step back a lot…).
  14. Hi Gary, this looks quite good, I like those small layouts - will follow with interest. Armin
  15. To whom it may concern: maybe this site gives one or another of us inspiration for a layout: trackage around a Procter & Gamble plant plus their port on Staten Island - named after one of their brands. Cheers - Armin
  16. Though you suffer NOW, I think it's quite the right decision. I can only underline what rob D2 said. Waiting for your progress reports! Armin
  17. Becomes better with evry bit of stock you add. Keep us posted pls!
  18. Hi Davidge, this is a very interesting project - well planned and looking superb. I love these micro layouts and will keep watching. Armin
  19. This project is really interesting, Andy. Will watch its progress - even if slow. Could it be possible to provide a track plan? Thanks in advance Armin
  20. What a great layout - so small and yet so great! Will keep a very interested eye on its progress. Armin
  21. One should bear in mind that Tillig make and sell two different lines of track (in H0): - STANDARD being code 100, simpler made and not so expensive, - ELITE is code 83, rather elegant and - well, as its name implies - not quite cheap. Don’t confuse them whilst considering a purchase! Regards Armin
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