CourthsVeil

Thanks for the clarification, Stu. An intriguing adventure this is! Made me ponder about it quite a while. Me thinks, Ray is correct in analysing the problems, but maybe a simpler solution is feasible…? I see two different setups: one like you (Stu) propose with the positive charge wandering with the loco around the length: At another setup the track sections would be charged in an alternating manner: all even sections connected as well as the odd ones (this is similar to Ray's proposal). Each time the loco enters a new section the polarity of all sections would be switched: Now I imagine the following: First: use only one loco wheel for power pick up (a 1:35 loco should be heavy enough to ensure good contact). Thus only one section needs to get the correct polarity: Second: Insert short isolating sections to prevent arcing (in the pic above: grey). Please the loco by providing a hefty flywheel (gold caps etc. could be used, but they are good for them DCC/sound people; we in this topic here are keen on KISS solutions and frown on this electronickery – mechanics it is! ). Thirdly: Use just one small magnet near the leading wheel (see pic again). Which requires latching (bistable) switches… Why that? Because it appears to me to be very difficult to adjust the length of the magnet line to the distance of the reed sensors. Not the physical length, rather the range of its effect… Much more problematic to get the grip on. If those intervals differ, the polarity changes will be out of sync, resulting in either a short or power off… Therefore I would prefer a small magnet providing just a pulse to toggle the relay. The solution #1 looks like a simple circuit: just one bus connecting the switches (parallel): Not so nice: all the reed switches must be “Single Pole-Double Throw” variety in order to change polarity. Such switches should be able to manage more than 250mA (Stu wants to run a 1:35 train). Or I would have to attach to each Reed a Relay… Now: the few SPDT-reeds handling more current I found cost a lot more (chea­pest: 2.9 LWT*) ! EACH ! Triple the price of simple reed switches) This annoyance is avoided by solution #2. All the even reeds are connected in parallel, the same manner the odd ones are connected – this makes one bus. This bus leads to TWO latching SPDT-relays (pink in the following pic) which are wired opposite. Both relays together provide the track cur­rent by means of a common bus: one relay feeds the odd sections, the other the even ones: This all looks rather complicated, but ImhO it isn’t: – a row of some 30 simple, cheap reed switches, – two buses instead of one – plus two relays. The additional cost of the latter is much less than the cost of many SPDT reeds. Oh, nearly forgot that sol. #2 requires a power source for the reed bus – a 4.5V battery will do and that's what the reed contacts like (instead of ~1A track current). Hmmmh… … Should I put my current micro layout aside for a while and make a simple experimantel rig to explore what I have concocted? For example: a length of standard track, one rail cut into sections (the other just to keep the wagon upright). Reeds and relays as above, solution no. 2. A small (oldish and idle) wagon (metal wheels !) provided with wipers at one side, neodym magnet below. On top a LED, replacing the motor. And all powered by a 1.5V battery… Push the wagon manually along the track – as long as the LED is alight… Now, this became quite a lengthy article I'm curious about your opinions. Regards Armin *) Laughing water tokens – don't want to argue about/with Sterling or Euro, you know! edit: last drawing could be misunderstood – replaced it.

Hello Stu, first I would like to emphasize that I find your project fascinating; far away from mainstream concepts it is really new and interesting (as we are used with your various layouts/dioramas). And it will be entertaining, I fear… I had some thoughts about it and see several points to consider: If I understand the concept correctly, you will use track segments with a length corresponding to the wheel base (“The critcal distance is that between the two pickups – as long as the track sections are shorter than this it should all work.”). Now, the wheel base being no more than four foot (i.e. 1.1” in 7mm), this would mean that you need no less than ~100 track sections for a circle of 9 foot circumference. That’s ~100 switches, regardless whether Reed or Hall … Under these circumstances I would not hesitate (if it were my project…) to put the second pickup not in the loco but at the end of the wagon; this would increase the distance of the pickups to some 30 foot (leading loco wheel – 2nd bogie), making things a lot easier (and cheaper). But an 11” wagon on a 9’ circle…??? Re. Reed switch vs. Hall sensor: some years ago I experimented with a hall IC switch. It did work well, but could not manage more than 100mA – much too weak for a 7mm loco. Thus each hall switch would need an amplifying circuit… Not all reed switches like the current a 7mm loco requires, the reliable ones are expensive, the minors need additional circuitry like the hall switches. As I said: ENTERTAINING! Good for masochists! Or people wanting to spend some time in the sanatorium… Better then to think about the stud solution, me thinks. Another variant has been shown by Carl A.: page 81, Jan 2009: A LATE ENTRY FOR THE 'WORLD'S SMALLEST LAYOUT' CHALLENGE! But, as you wrote already: Still, I will follow with interest! Regards Armin

This is exactly what there should be - it isn't "a little too basic". The less details the more the viewer's imagination will add to make it convincing. Well done - keep up the good work! Armin

Very convincing and atmospheric, Mullie. Like this picture really. Especially the sky with its dark cloud layer (yep I know, its just a shadow, but effective…). Keep up the good work Armin

Very atmospheric, Adrian, not only the last pic ! Thanks for sharing. Armin

Hi Mike, this looks and sounds like a nice plan, looking forward to seeing it flourish. Armin

Only when using a Grassmaster – under 5000 V there should be no danger !

Hi Chaz, it is said that Wahl oil is identical to ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid. With which I have no experience until now. In various German fora (forums??) one can read quite positive entries about ATF. The negative posts obviously stem from people who haven't tried it ("cannot be … oil is a lubricant … oil is an insulator … can't work at all …"). The positive ones from those who use it. I have still to get off the stick and ask my car service station for a few drops of ATF and try it out. Reason: my small 4-sqft layouts didn't deserve much cleaning. However, I now have a new layout with plaster adjoining the rails, so I'm hesitant to treat the rails with cleaners and thus spoil the hardstanding… Those who have used it emphasize that ATF be applied very, very sparingly – less than drybrushing and only a few centimeters for the whole layout. Will then be distributed over all the tracks; esp. good for the hidden ones (German Schattenbahnhöfe). It is reported that its effect lasts for months – like graphite. Regards Armin

Full agreement re. barks ! And a lot of manufacturers still make "makadam" sheets in flat black – and modellers buy and use them… Patchy light grey !!! Armin

Chaz, most modellers use Brown to paint the ground cover. Which, in my not so humble opinion, is WRONG. Experience shows that soil in reality is more grey than brown (yes, depending on the geology ! I know, there are red and even yellow, etc. ones). So, "Grey with a Brownish tint" would be suitable. And I think it is not so important whether it Light or Dank grey. Since most of it will be covered with grass etc., anyway. Regards Armin

What a relief ! Already feared "Four in One Shed" is equivalent to "Four in one Potting Shed"… And the Next Little P. then would have been no. three… Phew ! Armin

Which "next little project" ? ? ? Just curious… Armin

Hi John, you here have a short distance to span – in this case you might try out an idea I described in my Port Chambre thread there ('addendum' at end of post). This certainly is much lower than the tube you use and will easily fit into the cork. And the circuitry to change frog polarity is shown in this post; just one DPDT-switch (the left hand one in my drawing) to perform all: 1) movement of blades, 2) polarity change and 3) power the chosen track at point heel. Regards Armin edit: Ray was faster than me…

Mark, I'm a bit late, but here my little contribution to your (and Geoff's) servo solution: Just a length of alu channel plus two bolts – the baseboard in my pictures for clarity (p.i.) replaced by a bit of perspex. I don't use a mounting plate (because I've never heard about before…). My opinion: unnecessary! This simple approach makes adjusting the servo a snap: just loosen the nuts and jiggle the servo a bit until the wire goes dead straight trough the tie bar hole. As you said: SIMPLES! Don't forget to tighten the nuts again… And: piano wire or guitar wire are my choice too! No loop needed. The K.I.S.S. principle applies here too! Apart from that: a very nice and interesting layout you have there. Keep up the good work: Regards Armin

It's amazing, Rob! I was following this thread since its beginning, but I needed the second pic in post #493 above to realize how much width you have left in front of the tracks. This gives a feeling of ample space exp. as a contrast to the crowded background – very convincing! Great work – I do like simple and compact well executed layouts such as this… staying tuned for more. Armin

Can only agree and recommend these simple watercolours for staining wood (and plaster hardstanding). I - for example - use the set our doughter had when she went to school (Pelikan is the brand name - others as well suited…). Regards Armin

Agreed, Mullie! That's the reason why I fiddle around with some self concocted couplings like the left one shown here . Same working principle as S&W, just the hook made of brass wire. Armin

... best from both sides! Armin

Yeeaah, quick, gents! . . . and what about the Grass ? ? …hat + coat + … Armin

Yeah, that looks really convincing, Jimmy. Well done. And the hull appears to be really bedded in. Just a minor point, if I may: the two reddish-brown streaks beneath the ship are a bit distracting. Keep nevertheless up the good work Armin

Sorry, Shaun, wrong button !!! Wanted to hit "supportive"… Armin

Apart from the speed needed to get the parts aligned, there's the problem that most of the foams used will melt when in contact with the hot glue. Experiments with scrap sheets beforehand are recommended. Regards Armin

Brush them away before the PVA starts to set – e.g. with a slim sponge. And mind: ballasting can not be done in a hurry, it is a time consuming thing. Some call it boring whilst others say it's relaxing. That's why one should care for them single "stones". Good luck! Armin

Coming along wonderfully, Adrian. Armin

Prof, I'm afraid that I have to contradict (not easy, considering your knowledge and experience, I admit): your statement does not necessarily hold for all decoder/controller combinations. There's a Bachmann 45-ton switcher (prod no 85204 – factory DCC equipped) running on my layout. Power source is the simple analog controller described there by Frank (Dukedog) of this parish (plus my description there). This little thing is really simple (just five elements, apart from the bridge rectifier and the fwd/rev-switch ) and delivers unsmoothed DC to the track. The switcher responds after a quarter (!!) of knob rotation with a nice creepin start (ideal for shunting), so that I can use the remaining throttle range for higher speed. So no 75% range wasted here. The only thing that "tells" me that the loco is DCCed is the fact that it needs (say) half a second to ascertain that it is fed with analog current – and only then starts inching its way. (But that's a matter of time, not of knob range.) Since I belong to the K.I.S.S. gang, this combination is quite the right one for my four-foot2 shunting plank. Regards Armin PS: on another layout I use the controller I described there – even less electronics. Same performance as the back-emf thingy above – of course with the 45-ton above too.