Kev_Lewis

And tonight's successes are:

 

1. No1 son's BB gun is fully operational = happy son.

 

2. Pencarrow has a controller = me happy.

 

rps20141021_231157.jpg

I'm willing to bet that next was:

3. Get shot by No1 son's BB gun!

 

I am rather fond of Siphons myself

 

0 Gauge siphons

Don

 

That's a very nice rake of early Siphons, Don.

I can make a dodgy version of the alphabet with my later Siphons C, F, and G.

Must finish numbering and letting these at some point.

They look like Pac-man ghosts...

 Waka, waka, waka, waka, waka, waka, waka, waka, waka.....

[Eaten by a ghost]

Woo, woo, woo, woo, woo.

It was the Airfix/Mainline/Hornby large lettered GW version which I wanted to shirtbutton for post war running. Something different but I used white spirit to remove the letters and had a reaction causing white blooming on the plastic.

T-Cut is much safer for this kind of operation.

Very good recommendation, thank you.

No problem. Always happy to be helpful.

Quite a few of the castings from my Scorpio 14XX were replaced with those from Peter Roles.

First let's look at the tank fillers. These are from Peter Roles (thanks to whoever posted the link) and they are miniature works of art.

That was me!

Always remember, size isn't everything.....so I'm told.....ahem.

 

Rob

Keep telling the missus that!   

Us 7mm chaps know different. Have a look at the BR1 bogies I'm currently building over on my workbench thread.

(edit to correct smilie)

Dainton Bank was at the Swindon Railway Festival last month. A superb layout indeed.

Anyone got a can opener? Some batter, deep fat fryer and a couple of handfulls of chips.

I'm sure there's something on this to open it.

Found this photo of a meat tin, I hope it will brighten up the evening for all the Southern fans.

Argh! My eyes.......

Someone post a photo of a Castle quickly.

Further research on panniers seen on the Kingsbridge branch has found 5798,9623,9633 and 9717.Can some kind soul with access to the pannier papers tell me if any of these are in photo in the relevant book please.I don't have the book in my collection yet.

Just had a root through Rob.

Book 3: No sign of 5798.

Book 4: No photo's of 9623 or 9633. But there is a 1962 photo of 9717 at Hereford.

Yes, Warren mentioned the hole/casing issue. The gap around the casing on the 1366 is tiny though:

That's good. Fixing the chimney on top of the casing should be fine then.

The middle chimney should look about right with some of the bottom removed.

Permission requested to be fed up with GWR dock tanks. Roll on Christmas and the O2...

You've almost persuaded me to get one for myself. They had two 1366s at Swindon during the period I model and I'm sure they escaped the works occasionally.

The base of the middle one looks odd because some of the bottom should be hidden by the tank casing. Hopefully this is clear in the photo below of my 74XX. If I remember correctly you've been placing the chimney on top of the tank casing, when on the prototype it protruded through a hole.

Thanks Kev. 

 

The one on the right looks a pig to build...

The Scorpio kit was a challenge. Its had the paint stripped ready for future work, the camera flash makes it look a lot worse than it really is. All it needs is a good scrub with some Bar Keepers Friend.

I didn't realise Lionheart did a pannier in wartime GWR black.A nice change Kev.

They don't Rob. Good spot though.

Mine had the late BR crest, but when I changed modelling period I backdated it to wartime black.

Here's your chimney comparison Chris.

Lionheart 74XX on the left. 9.5mm diameter.

Scorpio 14XX on the right. 8mm diameter.

Comparing the heights is difficult due to the tank casing on the pannier, but measuring from the tops of the smokeboxes they are both 23.5mm tall.

Hope this helps.

Another technical question for the GWR boffins...

 

Does anyone know the dimensional differences between the chimneys on the following:

 

1. 14xx/ 58xx

2. 54xx/64xx/74xx

 

Is the 54xx chimney less 'fat' than the 14xx?

 

Thanks for any assistance. 

I actually have 7mm models of both of these.

I'll put a photo up when I get back from walking the dog. Would over on your 1366 build thread be best?

Might be...

Ha!

Well, I've got one. I know it's not everyones cup of tea, but I like how it works and should do everything I need it to.

I've just had a bid accepted on an item in the Dave Shakespeare estate. It would appear that Pencarrow has gone DCC...

Is that the NCE PowerCab?

Presumably then if the owner of Agenoria were to contact Chris, it would only take a bribe of one turnip and he would start saying that the 1366 is the best kit ever produced!

I've been looking at photos and have noticed all the fixtures and fittings that are attached to the cab sheets, backhead and floor...

 

My cunning plan, which obviously depends on me being able to accurately cut metal, is to produce a copy of the front cab sheet which fits inside the cab. This would be fixed to the footplate along with the backhead. It should help firmly locate the cab and tank assembly and strengthen the flimsy cab a little. As I said it will depend on my developing metal bashing skills for it to work! Watch this space.

 

Please discuss away...

Sounds like a good plan to me.

As cunning as a fox that's just been made Professor of Cunning at Oxford University.

I can see the sense in fitting the floor (if you mean the two raised sections) to the footplate for the reason you suggest but I think it will make it far more difficult to do a lot of the cab fitting, especially the pipework which not only goes through the floor but also across it from the injectors to the clacks.  Apart from the handbrake and another item (I'm not sure what it is to be honest) on the backsheet there are only a few things on the low part of the cab floor - just the springs and damper handles.  And the spring on the Driver's side is in any case surrounded by the raised section of floor.  Everything else including the reverser stand, draincocks lever and sander lever are all on the raised part.

 

And the raised shovelling strip would seem like a useful locating guide, albeit in only one plane, for the raised floor section on the Driver's side.  But then I'm not building it!

Taking things a bit further then. How about fixing the backhead to the cab floor as well?

Apologies to Chris for this debate about how to build his kit. It just goes to show that we all have different ways of doing things.

Are you going to be permanently attaching the cab roof?

If you fit parts of the floor to the front and sides of the cab you're going to have difficulty painting the interior of the cab unless the roof is removable.

My preference would be to fix the roof permanently, because it will look tidier, and fix the floor to the footplate which will help locate the cab in the correct position.

Hope this makes sense.

The H33 sits in the siding of Tigley Junction.

No doubt waiting to be restocked with saffron cake, scones, clotted cream and cider.

Or perhaps attention from then cleaners following the Finchings latest escapade!

Disadvantages?

 

- cost and time of building an extra board.

 

- some tarting required of the foam trackbed laid.

Nothing major there then.

To me, it looks like the advantages of adding any extra metre 3' 4" to the layout out weigh the disadvantages by a long way.