PeteB

Well done Fran for a very quick response to customer concerns - I'd be surprised if we got such a response from any of the other big name manufacturers on a Sunday evening. I think it probably just needs a wording change to make it clear that you are not abdicating responsibility if people don't take up the extra insurance option. Responsibility for safe delivery of packages normally resides with the sender, and that shouldn't change. The Navidium wording: "..turning lost, stolen, or damaged deliveries into profit for merchants.." doesn't read well from a customer perspective!

Thanks for the detailed and comprehensive explanation - no problem with the length! So now I fully understand what the real thing does, which is useful knowledge, but I still don't know what F14 is supposed to do on the model. It is not linked to any sound slot, and from your description there is no visible change looking at a real loco as it passes through a neutral section. Pressing F14 seems to do nothing. I wondered if perhaps it would stop accelerating, but no, I just tried that, and it continued accelerating as normal with F14 active.

Having read in the CVs from the sound fitted version into Decoder Pro, I see that function wires Aux 11 and Aux 12 seem to operate the pantos. There is additional logic around how the sound version operates them, so you select which pant with one function key and the selected one automatically goes up when you turn the sound on. However, if your Lokpilot has enough function outputs, you should be able to get the pantographs to operate from wires Aux 11 and Aux 12. What you will need to do is set your CVs to map a couple of function buttons on to those function wires.

I've read al the CVs into Decoder Pro now. Quite a complex setup! For the moment, I've just adjusted CV179 to make the F5 manual brake a bit more aggressive - so I can brake more quickly if it is coasting on too far. Works nicely. I'm trying to work out what F14 "Neutral section" is supposed to do? It doesn't play any sound slot, it just changes to "Shift Mode 3". The other uses of shift mode seem to be to do with the pantographs, F8 for DC mode and F17 to select which pantograph also change the shift mode. I expected it to maybe drop the pantograph for the neutral section, but nothing happened when I tried it, stationary or moving. Does anyone know what a real class 92 does when it encounters a neutral section?

Thanks Jo, so I'll be like a GBRf driver and turn it on when I feel like it! 😁

Received my GBRf 92032, very pleased with it after many years wait (I originally ordered the DJM one - nuff said!) It runs and sounds great. As you can see from the picture, and also pictures posed here by others, the pantographs do sit a little high when in the down position, looking at prototype pictures, when down they should be flush and within the roofline. I guess that is a compromise we have to accept for working pantographs - but if you will be running in 3rd rail mode with them down (or under rule 1 on non-electrified layouts) it might be worth checking your bridge clearances. A couple of prototype questions for those more knowledgable than I: 1. Is there any rule for which pantograph should be in use? Looking at prototype photos, I've found examples with either leading or trailing pantograph in use, so is it just use either, presumably to spread out wear between them? 2. When would the top headlight be used? It is controlled by a separate function key, and photos of it turned on seem quite rare. I noticed one oddity - sometimes I might want to run with sound off, for example middle of the night don't want to wake the family. If I turn sound off, it drops the pantograph. So if I want to run sound off with the pantograph up, I have to override this behaviour manually with F26 or F27. It's currently doing a read all CVs in Decoder Pro - which will take a couple of hours, so it will then be interesting to see how it is set up.

This course will sadly now not take place. See my posting here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/166163-mick-bonwick/

I'm afraid I have to convey the very sad news that Mick Bonwick, well known to many modellers from his weathering classes at Missenden and Pendon, suffered a heart attack last week and sadly died earlier today. His passing is a great loss to our hobby and he will be sorely missed.

I'm involved in organising a weathering course in August, to be tutored by weathering guru Mick Bonwick. The course will take place at Rushden Transport Museum, Northamptonshire, over the weekend of 14-15th August, with an optional extra day on Monday 16th August. You can arrive on Friday afternoon if you wish, to get set up. Full details and a booking form can be found here: https://www.merg.org.uk/merg_wiki/doku.php?id=public:weatheringcourse (Note: although the course details are on the MERG website, there is no requirement to be a MERG member to attend) This course is suitable for everyone from complete beginners who know nothing about weathering, to seasoned weathering practitioners who want to improve and hone their skills. The course format will be mainly practical, with Mick giving you the theory and guidance, and training on techniques, as you go along. Mick will have with him sufficient workstations, with airbrush, compressor and spray booths with fume extraction, to allow no more than 2 people sharing a workstation during the course. This means that if you don’t yet have your own airbrush, you don’t need to rush and out buy one. You can come on the course, learn about the pros and cons of the different types, and make a decision with Mick’s guidance before you purchase your own. Any questions, please feel free to ask. Regards, Pete PS: I did check with Andy first that it was ok to post this information here

Good advice. Alan's excellent OT was indeed present when we did the demo of various control options, including extended handle switches, touch screen and voice control amongst others.

Kevin, it was only a day and a half ago that Alan posted his questions! You need to remember that Alan cannot just walk up to a computer and check his messages like you can, I'm sure he will be along in due course.

Michael, if you look back a few posts you will see that I mentioned that I have demonstrated the voice control to Alan, so he can decide whether or not such a thing might be useful to him. I also demonstrated it during a MERG online Zoom area group meeting a while back. I'm very interested in both the electronics and the railway modelling. My son is disabled, so I have a particular interest in the application of the technology to help disabled people access railway modelling. I certainly wouldn't class myself as "more interested in the electronics and new ideas than in the railway and modelling side" - I found that comment a little insensitive and upsetting as all I'm trying to do here is help with some answers that might help Alan make his decisions. I hope that my knowledge combination about model railways, electronics, computer control, AAC and adaptations to help disabled modellers might also be able to help Alan. Pete

Hi Alan, others have already covered many aspects. My preference is also DCC, it is more amenable to control by alternative methods, and easier to implement for such control. It is, of course, not necessary to convert all 300 locos in one go, converting a few at a time as the layout is built so that you can run trains might be a good way forwards. I suspect all 300 would not fit on the layout at the same time anyway! Some of your collection will be easier to convert than others, so, together with which are your favourites, that could perhaps guide which ones you have converted first. DCC is also amenable to the fitting of keep alive units, which can be useful for short wheelbase locos that are more susceptible to stalling, for more reliable running. A bus system for the layout, as well as simplifying the wiring, allows all the different elements, such as trains, points, signals, routes etc to be centrally controlled in a integrated way, which is what is needed for alternative control methods. I favour CBUS, because it is what I use and know very well. Yes, the modules need building, but that is offset by a much cheaper purchase cost. Once you have the layout up and running with a bus controlled system, then various control methods can be implemented, the use of one does not preclude others. This could range from a conventional control panel with switches that have extended levers for ease of operation, right through to the voice control that I demonstrated to you a year or so ago. That could be developed so that voice commands can do anything from control the start/stop/speed of one loco, setting routes and running a train from A to B, right through to a voice command to run a train sequence. How far you would go with that is dependant on how you would like to control it. A model railway bus can also be linked to any AAC (Augmentative and Alternative Communication) system, such as touch screen, Eyegaze, head tracking, remote switches etc. A starting point would be which methods you are finding work best for you for environment control in the house (windows, curtains etc) or, indeed, how you operate your computer to send emails etc. Multiple control methods could be installed, which you use depending on how your motor control is coming on, or indeed how you feel on a given day. None of this precludes a visitor operating things the conventional way My son, who is disabled, uses large round tactile push buttons to start and stop trains, via the CBUS system, whilst I simultaneously use the standard handsets. By implementing such control methods, hopefully you could do most or all of the actual route setting and train control, the carer's role would be to deal with any derailments or trains that stall on the track (hopefully all rare events with a well built layout) and, as has already been alluded to, perhaps they could do track cleaning duties. Track cleaning wagons can contribute, but are, IMHO, not a complete solution on their own. I have found that once the track is clean (I use a proprietary track cleaning product) if the layout is used very regularly then I very rarely need to do more cleaning. The worst thing for dirty track and loco pickups is not using the layout for some time. Pete

Thanks for that clarification, Oliver. It was a quandry, because I have always had a very good experience dealing with Rails. So it is very good of you to recommend buying from DPS or Locomotion if we want to support those organisations. I looked at Locomotion, but Tulyar, the one I want, is not listed there as a sound version (the only options are £30 or £160 in the checkout selection box), so presumably they have already sold all their allocation of those. I have now had a very good email exchange with Darrell at DPS, who has taken over their online sales since my earlier experience some years ago, and who responded quickly to my enquiry. As a result of our discussion, he has added "Deposit only" entries in their online shop for their Accurascale Deltics, and you specify whether you are ordering basic or sound fitted using the "Add note" at the checkout. This makes it easier to order now if you just want to pay a deposit. So I have now ordered my sound fitted Tulyar from DPS, and when I am running it on my layout, it will be nice to know that some part of the money I am paying is going towards restoration of the real Tulyar. I can't wait to get my hands on it - but I know I have to! Regards, Pete

I'm about to place my order, but I have a question about the DPS/Rails/Locomotion ones. I'd like to support the DPS - they do a great job restoring the Deltics and endeavouring to keep them on the main line. Will DPS get a cut from every one of those exclusive DPS/Rails/Locomotion Deltics sold, or only the ones bought from the DPS online shop? The reason I ask is that I am in a bit of a quandary as to who to order it from. Whilst DPS are doing important work on Deltic preservation, I don't have so much confidence in their sales operation. I ordered a custom weathered Bachmann Tulyar from them many years ago, and it never came despite lots of chasing and promises. So in terms of knowing I will get it, I would prefer to order from a slick operation like Rails. But it would be good to know if some benefit still went to the good work of DPS for that limited edition. Does anyone know how the benefit from the exclusive editions is allocated? Since we are supporting important charitable organisations here, I don't think there is any reason why this information should not be open and transparent. Pete

That would be great, thanks! Does anyone know how I get to the archived content whose links no longer work? I have quite a few RMWEB saved bookmarks on various subjects, which no longer work.

Was there ever a part 3 to this guide, showing how to finish these off? I also bookmarked a link to another RMweb thread showing such a conversion, "JMA in 4mm" but the link no longer works: <http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=40988> Does anyone know how I might access that content? Thanks, Pete

Thanks for the link and info - I've save the cached web page as pdf and as screenshot. I spoke to Tesco bank and at first they tried to rebuff me, based on the amount less than £100 and on how long ago the payment was and the fact that it was a Paypal payment. But based on people's experiences and advice on here I persisted on all points, particularly on the Paypal thing as, AFAICS, Paypal are no more an intermediary than the usual CC acquirer relationship to the merchant (I wonder if anybody has tested that in court yet?). In the end they said they would process it as chargeback rather than section 75 and asked me to email in the various documents (DJM receipt, newletters to show the order was still active etc) so we'll see what happens next.

Great info on this thread - so I'm just about to contact Tesco credit card about getting a refund of my £60 depost for 2xClass92. I have my invoice from DJM, and the various newletters etc, what I can't find is anything that shows what the full price of the Class 92 was, as evidence that the goods I was ordering were priced at over £100. The DJM website no longer shows this. Does anyone have a screenshot or document that shows this? Thanks,

I hope you don't mind me waking up this old thread. The idea of digital mag subscriptions is attractive, but can BRM or others answer these questions: 1. I have plenty of model railway mags 10 to 20 years old, and I still dip into them for reference from time to time. In 10 years time, when "Pocketmags" may or may not still exist, and there may or may not still be an "app" (AKA program) for whatever version of Windows, Android or other system is then current, how likely is it that I will still be able to access those digital magazines that I have paid for many years ago? 2. Kind of in answer to (1) above, has anyone yet worked out a way to save the whole magazine(or article) to PDF, because if so, I guess that ensures the future of being able to read them when Pocketmags has been acquired by Microsoft/Facebook etc and made unusable. 3. Similarly, has anyone worked out a way to print a whole article so that it can be read in comfort? (if so, this also answers (2), because printout can always be directed to PDF) 4. What sort of guarantee is there that the pocketmags apps will continue to work on older operating system versions, or can Pocketmags force their subscribers to upgrade their computers to be able to continue to access their saved content? 5. If, as i have read here, video content is only ever available by online streaming, what guarantee is there of continued availability of such content as the years pass? Thanks, Pete

I've received the replacement instructions, allen key and drill from Tom, many thanks for the prompt service. I've done a couple of axles and it is now working well. I'll post some pictures when I get a chance, to complement those posted by Mark. I think most of my problem was that without the very small allen key, I could not adjust the drill length. It was set quite short, and I suspect was not drililng far enough in to get the full diameter at the hole entry. The bearing are a very tight fit in the hole, and require use of pliers to force it in, but that is no bad thing because the bearing is then rigidly in place without the need for any glue etc.

Hi Tim, Many thanks for your kind offer to send the instructions, allen key and another drill bit. I'm very happy to pay for what it costs and postage, it's my fault I lost the instructions and allen key! I have emailed you my postal address. I have managed to ream out the axleboxes on a few old coaches so that the pinpont axles will go in and run in the plastic. The tool worked well for that, and they run better than the old plastic wheels, but putting proper brass bearings in would be preferable and will give even better running. I'll have a go at that as soon as I get those bits from you. Big thanks! Regards, Pete

I bought one of these a while ago, but never got around to using it. Today I thought I would have a go, and I'm struggling a bit. This may well be because I have long ago lost the instructions and any other bits that came with it. The drill that is supplied in the tool is about 1.75mm (measured with digital calipers). So not surprisingly a 2mm bearing will not fit in the hole it reams out. As far as I can see, the tool would not take a larger drill (or am I wrong?) So how should I use it to fit a 2mm bearing? Also - what is the required size of the allen key to adjust the drill position? (yes - I lost that too :-( ) Thanks, Pete

Book arrived today, "Southern Way Class 71/74 Locomotives". Lots of excellent Pics and details of the conversion. I bought it mainly as reference for my attempt at converting the DJM Class 71 to a CLass 74, but the detailed text of the history and development is also a fascinating read - excellent book. And to answer John's questions, the bogie revisions were mainly revised springing because the 74 was heavier, and retractable pickup shoe gear for use when on diesel, it was fixed on the 71. The arrangement of the pickup gear looks quite different. There are photo's in the book.