Jub45565

I'm not, and didnt say I was. I'm not even an old drip yet... See my other post, I'll pay what I think is reasonable if I think it is the best means of getting the toys I want. Take a black 5. It was lovely when the Hornby one was cheap, but as I model in P4 it 'needs' (for me) a Comet chassis and a Brassmasters detailing kit. At some stage in the pricing I might as well go and buy the Brassmasters kit, but as they don't sell in the quantities the Hornby one does the kit is obviously more expensive (as well as using more expensive materials to start with). Horses for courses. Prices are indeed rising. Bachmann need to make profits from their toy manufacturing activities. I quite agree that 'we' will show them over time whether they are sustainable. As I say this has been covered elsewhere though so I'm personally going to run away back to my workbench now :-)

If it is such a luxury then why are you getting so hot under the collar about it? If we think the toys on offer are worth the money being asked, and we have the money, we pay it. If we don't we don't. I don't see why we need to whinge on about it on forums. Bachmanns price increases have been done to death elsewhere on the forum.

I think what it really means is that they need to get it right to sell. If it has obvious errors (which I am in no way saying it will...) then fewer people will 'put up with it' if the overall cost of the model and whatever is needed to correct it is high. If it is good, then it is still cheaper than a kit for those who require this prototype. I can more than justify one (but only one) for my future plans, but will see it first before committing.

Thanks for the tips Mark. So far I have managed with the C&L roller gauges, but having other gauges to repeatably get all the pointwork the same would be good. I will keep my eyes out at Scaleforum at the weekend! A bit of progress has been made, but nothing particularly photo worthy as yet. One thing I am struggling to source is a Midland yard lamp. The prototype is on the right hand side of this photo: http://www.embsayboltonabbeyrailway.org.uk/historic/fws073.jpg It appears that one used to be available from DC Kits, but is no longer stocked: http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/kits_modelling/4mm_colour_light_signals_yard_lights/mryl75_midland_region_lms_yard_lamp_white_led_on_tall_post_.php I could make my own of course, along the lines of this: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64977-bakewell-peak-district-line-br-sequence-of-moves/page-64 I would prefer an assembly or kit if a decent representation is available though.

Erm, ok: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-BR-Standard-Class-5-4-6-0-BR-Black-/191689987038?hash=item2ca19d13de Hornby Standard 5 ey. Not that they ever did one. Looks like a Black 5 with a Collett tender to me...

Hi Tony, To be honest that comment was as a response in general terms, not specifically about Thompsons. I will require Thompsons in the future, & will go about it in the most sensible route. I quite agree that will probably mean the new Bachmann ones. Doing other diagrams will be a toss up though! On the flip side of my comment, the Hornby Stanier none gangwayed stock is a better shape than the Comet ones (other kits are available) so I would base on the RTR offering every time. To conclude my own personal opinion, if the accuracy is there then I will buy. Where mods are required (including different diagrams) it will be a choice based on the best route to get there. As you say we all have different financial & time availability, & different standards we aim to meet. These new Bachmann ones will meet a good spec, & will probably release a flood of the old ones into the market if the market decides it is worth the cost of upgrading. There should be items available for all.

I like the bit in the 08 add of: just needs a bit of oil as it runs a little slow I'm not quite sure where the oil needs applying to make it faster... I don't think oil affects the gear ratio

I think most people just do if for comedy value when coming across the sublime & rediculous. I dont think there is anything to read into it, fair play to the sellers if they can get money for them :-)

Point successfully fettled! Just reflooded the first 4 slide chairs on the turnout side with butanone and applied the track gauges and once this was cured a few seconds later my test vehicles go through the point without fail :-) I have a few priorities to do on the 2P build next, but will soon be back to the next turnout...

Hi Edward, Unfortunately there is a photo in the LMS Journal Preview edition (while has a very nice article on these locos) which shows 41903 lined in August 1957. There is also a picture of ebay currently which it a bit blurred, and undated, but also shows lining: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191557807799?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I know there were a couple unlined towards the end, but I do actually like the lining so will put the effort into doing in rather than taking the easy way out, on this occasion! I havent made any progress for a bit, but I did order the Gibson bevelled wheels today and am just sitting down to reprofile the sand boxes now. Once I have done these and stuck them on (hopefully all tonight) I will assess the chassis to see whether there is any further work I need to do before painting that sub-assembly. Cheers, Pete

It will be interesting to hear how you get on with the slaters gearboxes Simon. To be honest Ive never really understood the fastination with the portescap & the prices they fetch on ebay when compared with the price of a high level box - but at the same time i like to keep an open mind...

More progress to report :-) Having fitted the switch blades I went on to sort out my functional tie bar arrangement. I say functional, as I am using a tie bar under the baseboard to do the movement, and will at some point add a cosmetic assembly above board once I've worked out what is most suitable (and probably well after all the functional pointwork has been laid!). I wanted to the assembly a bit of flexibility, so I fitted brass tubing into a strip of copperclad, and through those fed lace making pins: I spaced one of the switch blades away from the stock rail using a spare sleeper to give a reasonably gap: The assembly was fed up from underneath. The lace pins have a bend in them, so that they sit under the switch blades (and are soldered to them) but also feed under the stock rails to stop the blades lifting (I can thank Robin of Barrow Road fame for that one, dropped into conversation a few weeks ago). Whether the solder joint is enough only time will tell... (Not the best photo, it was an angle I'd forgotten to photo when the board was at a suitable angle - I'll have another go sometime if there is interest) - under the board, there is a cross tube in which sits a spring wire that comes with the Conrad/Rapid servo point motors. The point motor is also clamping a tube, so that the spring wire is able to move and be kept under tension at each end. This allows the spring to allow for the difference in throw between the motor and my switch blade, and hold the switch blades against the stock rails. So with a bit of wiring up to a switch on a temporary flying lead, I have a functioning point! Unfortunately, my test vehicle showed that with the sleepers beyond the switch blades at the correct gauge, it makes the first part of the switch narrow to gauge. So the next job is to see how easily the chairs can be eased off the sleepers and resat. So an unfortunate fail, but I am not disheartened as I am happy that the point functions well - I've proved my motorising plan - and the blades sit nicely against the stock rails, so just needs a bit of a tweak to sort it out :-) That won't be this weekend though, I'm nephew visiting...

It appears we have a magician in the ranks: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bachmann-OO-Gauge-Class-37-0-Diesel-Loco-BR-Blue-Cat-No-32-783DS-/181836835069?hash=item2a5651e8fd *********ABSOLUTELY BRAND NEW.......NEVER,EVER, BEEN OUT OF BOX******* I bought this loco, and unfortunately I am now selling my entire collection due to an unforseen situation, so this loco, has never been used. It's absolutely MINT condition. ******************DOES NOT HAVE THE SOUND CHIP IN,CAME WITHOUT******

Hi Edward, Thanks for the info - I was aware that a few of them congregated in Lancaster but hadn't tied up the reason, and that makes sense. It is strange that a solitary one lingered on in the Tewkesbury direction for a few years longer than the rest! I agree the later chimney suited the locos much better, I think they were fitted as renewals became necessary during the 40s. The Chimney came as part of the kit - some of the castings used as from the Alan Gibson range but most are done by London Road themselves. Whenever I have dealt with John Redrup he has been very helpful. There is a 'contact us' form on the LRM website here: http://traders.scalefour.org/LondonRoadModels/contact-us/ I think I'm settled on doing 41903 (though I will be ignoring a few of the dents and bent steps it had gained, I think it would look wrong on a model if that makes sense). The build is coming together nicely and it won't be long before I'll have to find a source of lining! Cheers, Pete Cheers, Pete

Someone will have spilt his tea, that's for sure...

So, the current state of play!: For the pull rod crank, the instructions say that 2 of the little arms are used on the left hand side, and both the L cranks on the right hand side to reach up to the brake cylinder. Looking at photos though, it isnt really an L crank. The crank down to the pull rod is behind the crank across to the brake cylinder. The etch includes more 'little' cranks than necessary, so I used one of those for the rear and modified one of the L brackets so the front section could be double thickness, with only the rear of the 2 reaching down to the pull rod. The next jobs on the cards are to fit the buffers (one done so far, but it is a bit wonky so needs reflowing - the joys of soldering at least. The rear sand boxes also need fitting. However, they are too square as supplied and wont fit properly on the frame as it collides with the detail etch above the pull rod crank pivot rod. I will fettle the rear of the boxes to more closely resemble the prototype and then fit them over the pegs I have attached to the frames. The other castings have been fitted over pegs too, to aid their structural integrity. (I can understand that the sand boxes have been given more meat at the rear to help with structural integrity too...). I have fitted the front frame extensions, and this shows that the smokebox bottom is too short on the resin casting. The front of the smokebox is in about the right place with respect to the corner of the frame extension, but the lower part of the smokebox should go almost as far. The frame extensions also have prominent rivets which I think will need replicating. I havent tackled the screw adjuster in the brake pull rod yet either, but with the way I have modified them so that the brake gear is removeable it means that I can look at this sub assembly whenever...

People not being interested is definitely not true Dave! I've enjoyed the glimpse you've given us in other topics & look forward to more here :-) My future intentions seem to be making very similar thought processes moving from an S&C concept to a Wharfedale based layout. Ilkley shed will do as my 'tester' & I look forward to getting a lot of inspiration from here.

Another empty box anyone? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-R22587-EMPTY-BOX-for-BR-4-6-2-BATTLE-of-BRITAIN-LOCO-34062-17-SQUADRON-py-/361331841108?hash=item54210e5854 Or a photo of a black 5: (well, almost... it is at least a 4-6-0 I suppose, and even shares its number with one. I'll go with a B7/1) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191557810406?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I am a railway modeller. Why would I subcontract my hobby? For me a Bachmann model would require new bogies, couplings and gangways as a minimum too - but that would be the same either way, as is purely my choice. Upgrading a £25 RTR coach with several add ons is economical against the Comet prices. £50 is breaking even... Each to their own, but there is no law saying we all need to buy x number of blue/red boxes per annum to enjoy our hobby. Is this RMWeb or RCWeb? Not knocking the collectors market - without it we wouldn't have had half the choice we do have today - but collecting boxes is not why I am here.

On the plus side it brings etched kits to be the economical choice alongside the builders choice of detailing. Makes the choice to actually do modelling easier :-)

Thanks for the part number - the lack of these in the Ultrascale catalogue is probably another reason I concluded that they mustnt be bevelled! Oh well, a 6 month wait will be saved I suppose, though I might yet still use Ultrascales on the bogie. I have a couple aimed at Ivatt tank pony trucks which off the top of my head I think are the same fellas.

Hmm, cheers Trev... When I ordered them I hadn't got many decent photos clearly showing them so took a punt. I've since got the lms journal preview edition among other things & yes clearly they should be bevelled. Being really a pre Stanier design, although accredited to him, I thought that they probably wouldn't have had them. Oh well, I have some Crab wheels if I can find a proper source. I knew I was making everything able to drop out for a reason ;-)

Yes, but the P&P on the buy it now lot is £7 against £3.90, so the auction is still cheaper so far... If you really wanted it by that price though I'd say it is worth getting the buy it now and be done with it.

To be fair I was wondering this myself, it is the only one with a silly price and there are a few at £3.25... If anyone is actually after one of these it would probably be worth a message to them.

It really does cost a lot to post things from Malton: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUTHERLAND-MODELS-COTSWOLD-KIT-GNR-LNER-LONG-TOM-PART-BUILT-VERY-GOOD-/231644785843?hash=item35ef1aecb3