Graham108

Many thanks - I'll bear these in mind

Thanks for responding - I'll contact Bachmann to see if they sell the detailing pack as spare parts

Thanks for responding - I wish I'd returned to the hobby when such kits were still readily available.

Did the detail parts com with the chassis or do you use something else?

What do you use for the buffer beam details - or does it all come with the model on purchase?

That must be one of the biggest 'train-sets' in the country

Sorry no good to me as I only run DC

Thanks for the replies - I think I might have sussed out my problem. Looking at the Peco website they offer the PL-31 which is a packet of wires (10) with spade connectors for use with the PL-13 - the packet also includes 5 shrouds to cover the connectors. Whilst I was wondering why there were 10 wires and only 5 shrouds I looked at my switches and they are so close together the connectors were slightly touching in places - which is presumably why Peco provide covers for one wire per switch. I've ordered some replacement insulated spade connectors so will see if that solves the problem. I agree with the comment about using something more reliable - however I bought the PL-10's years ago (I have 36 installed) so wasn't up to funding replacements. Next time I will certainly look further into what's available.

Has anybody used the 'new' format PL-13 switches? I have several of what I'm assuming are the old / original style which have round pin connectors, similar to the point motors. I bought some last week and they have a flat spade connector now. I added them to my storage sidings so they control power to the relevant track - as I have already done with the old ones. However they don't appear to work as multiple trains move at the same time. Having ripped out the wiring and re-installed I still have the issue - so it appears that power is being fed to both outputs regardless of the switch position. Anybody else experienced this please?

AT LAST - I think I've solved my problem. I found a video on YouTube (user GreatWestern93 so thanks to them) which has a review of the KFA. In the video the couplings are flicked to the side and promptly return to the centre. I tried this on mine and one end of 2 of the units didn't do this. Further inspection identified the coupling rods are slightly bend and are catching on the end of the wagon. So I took the coupling out of the worst offender and use this as the 'end' wagon, and I'm using the other as the link end to the loco - and the 4 wagons can now go around my layout without incident. Now all I've got to do is fit the fiddly little bits onto the buffer beams.

I'm now beginning to suspect there was something wrong with the original version of the KFA container model. Looking at the well-known auction site, the price for older models is significantly less then newer versions. So unless there has been substantial re-tooling by Hornby I can't see any other viable explanation for the price difference, Can anybody with the newer model please confirm the type of couplings used; i.e are they bogie mounted?

Apologies for resurrecting this old thread but I'm in need of assistance with this item and thought this was the easiest way. I bought some of the R6484 KFA's (with the Maersk / Stolt containers) some years ago but I've only just been able to run them - and I'm experiencing major problems with the couplings on them and am hoping somebody on here also had the same problem and manged to correct it (I did try the Hornby forum but without any success). The problem as I see it is the couplings are attached direct to the underframe of the wagon rather than the bogie - I've never seen this before in over 50 years of being in the hobby. The couplings don't readily align with each other, even when trying to join them together on a straight piece of track. They require manual manipulation to ensure they don't 'cross'. And when running they couplings tend to be all over the place, even in a straight line and going round curves they more often than not derail - I have a minimum of 4th radius set track with the majority of curves a minimum of 36". Has anybody got any idea how to use these couplings so they work properly please? Have the more recent versions of this model got the same couplings on them?

On the subject of baseboard height, consider how you'll do all the wiring, assuming it will be underneath.

Finally got round to running a Bachmann Class 70 (70005) this week and was surprised to see the option to switch off some off the lights by switches underneath the loco. As I run DC this is obviously of great benefit to me as I can turn off the rear lights when hauling wagons. As it doesn't appear to be an advertised option (I've looked at the Bachmann website's description) is this a standard function across the whole range. If not can anybody please identify which other models have a similar capability please?

Of course it does - how about the London Underground, plus all the EMU's using the 3rd rail principle!

Sorry first ever post on this forum so please accept my gratitude for all I've learnt over the years. I've been confused by electrofrog points for years but just when I thought I understood them, and knew what to do with frog polarity etc, I came across this posting which has baffled me again. It looks like you have connected the stock rails directly to your power feeds (picture 3), then connected the stock rails to the outer rails (picture 1), then cut the stock rails to prevent shorting (picture 2). Correct? If so then doesn't this mean there is no power going to the frog at all?